kurtvd19

Ron: These are now available on USB flash drives since most new computers don't come with CD drives any more. Glad you learned enough from them to post about their availability. Kurt

Bill: That article is by Toni Levine a NRG Director. Kurt

This was available from Syren Ship Models (sponsor here) - I didn't see it with a quick check, but ask Chuck about it. Kurt

Please provide a website URL when asking about products - didn't come up with a simple search. Kurt

Keith: That's exactly how I do it. Took me a couple of tries before I figured out not to fight gravity and work from the top down. Kurt

The Half Hull kit can be finished off as a complete model with the installation of the deck and masts - Use only a partial mast as in an Admiralty model if rigging is not something you have leared or don't wish to do. However, if you do the Rigging Kit you will know what is needed for a full half hull model. A lot of half hull models are not rigged. Kurrt

Many chains have a clear coating that needs to be removed for decent blackening. I soak the brass chain in warm Sparex (I use a small crock pot for this - it's not used in the kitchen, only in the shop!) to remove the coating. A thorough rinse in water and after drying the chain can be blackened. I dip it in and remove it letting the excess drain off over the container. Two dips is usually adequate to blacken chain. I will try the use of a a small, cheap paintbrush to "paint" the Brass Black onto the chain the next time I have to blacken chain to see how it compares to dipping it. I use the paintbrush method for rods, ladders and other parts that are too large for my small containers I use for most blackening. Kurt

You should look at the NRG's Planking Kit - https://thenrgstore.org/collections/plans-and-projects/products/half-hull-planking-project - It has a very complete tutorial guide on the proper way to plank a hull. There are a bunch or build logs here on MSW along with the build log by Toni Levine who designed the kit. This will aid you in planking future kits. Kurt

The NRG collaborated on this publication that is printed by FineScale Modeler's parent company. We provided the content, but they own the handbook. We will contact them and tell them many would really like to see a pdf version. If they say yes or no we will report back. Kurt

The first shipment of 100 Ship Modeler’s Handbooks sold out in less than 8 hours. There has been an unexpected demand for this issue, and we ordered more on March 11. The new order should arrive soon, so we have put them up for sale again. Please remember that while they are on order, we do not have a definite delivery date. When you place your order, we will process the sale, charging your card at that time. An envelope will be prepared right away, and the issue will ship as soon as stock is received here. Price - $13.99 Member 20% discount applies.

We ordered 100 copies thinking this would be a good number if we sold them all - eventually. We sure misjudged the appeal and have new order in for a bunch - promise to not be out of stock again - we will have a chance to see dwindling stock - 8 hours sure wasn't enough time!

The first shipment of 100 Ship Modeler’s Handbooks sold out in less than 8 hours. There has been an unexpected demand for this issue, and we ordered more on March 11. The new order should arrive soon, so we have put them up for sale again. Please remember that while they are on order, we do not have a definite delivery date. When you place your order, we will process the sale, charging your card at that time. An envelope will be prepared right away, and the issue will ship as soon as stock is received here. Price - $13.99 NRG Member 20% discount applies. If you don't know the discount code, contact our office. Kurt

The NRG is proud to announce the publication of the Ship Modeler’s Handbook. This limited-edition special issue, published by FineScale Modeler, is a collection of articles taken from our own Nautical Research Journal and Ships in Scale Magazine, as well as two original articles found exclusively in this Handbook. The Handbook will appeal to both new modelers and old hands. You will recognize most of the authors’ names, some of whom, sadly, are no longer with us. Available now in the NRG Store Price - $13.99 Member 20% discount applies. All funds stay with the NRG & MSW

With the currents in most rivers and the obstructions such as sand bars towing on the rope does not provide the control needed to thread one's way through the average river obstacle course. With the boat behind and a solid link to the barge, the towboat can set up to push through the turn as a single unit rather than trying to get a towed barge through the same space. Kurt

I have a working set of feathering side wheels I salvaged from a RC boat. Some European make that I can't think of right now. My intent was to use them as individually controlled stern wheels. I still have them but haven't built a RC boat in almost 30 years due to the weight of them and getting them in and out of the water. I have no idea of how effective they would be going in reverse. My original thoughts were that with a split stern wheel one could go into reverse and the other in forward and give a very much improved turning radius - maybe even able to spin around the wheel. Modern day riverboats have twin screws and routinely use one in forward and the other in reverse to set-up and to negotiate turns with barges. I used to have access to a small pond with a nice sunken area adjacent to the shoreline that had been cut out of the shoreline and a sheet of metal normally used for the sides of concrete piers used to separate the lower area from the water. A nice amount of stone was added so any water was well below the top of the stone and your feet stayed dry. The waterline was about at waist level with the top edge of the steel wall just about 6 inches higher. Perfect for putting RC boat in and out of the water w/o having to bend over much. If I still had access to that pond I might still be messing with RC boats.

The video of Part 2 is now posted in the member's area for viewing at any convenient time.

Saturday, February 22, 2015 BUILDING OKESA - Pt. 2 By Dr. Bob Jenkins https://thenrg.org/resources/Pictures/CROPPED%20-%20WITH%20MASTS%20FULL.jpg The model of OKESA is an example of boatbuilding in the US in the WWI era. Ships were critically needed to transport goods and troops and with steel being used for weapons and Navy ships it was decided that wooden ships could fill the need. The presentation on July 13 will be Part One of a multi part series on the building of this model. Part One will cover the history of the ship, the research necessary to obtain plans and other reference materials, and the construction of the model starting with the keel frames and building jig up to the point where the ship would have gone down the slipway to floating. Part Two will cover the details of the building and detailing the model from the weather decks and up. This will include deck houses, rigging, the wheelhouse interior details etc. The interior includes the triple expansion steam engine and the boiler among other details. A second steam engine and boiler were constructed to be mounted on the display board as shown in the lower right of the photograph. Part 2 will cover the details of the building and detailing of the model from the weather decks and up. This will include deck houses, rigging, the wheelhouse interior details etc. Build Log on MSW The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, February 22, at 10:30 AM CDS time. 11:30 AM – Eastern 10:30 AM – Central 9:30 AM – Mountain 8:30 AM – Pacific 4:30 PM – Greenwich Members: Check your email for the invitation and links

Get well soon Keith. Take care, Kurt

Check Amazon and eBay - not the surgical quality but we don't have that kind of $$.

I agree about the Castrovejo scissors. I got a pair when a surgeon in our club brought a brief case full of various tools & scissors to a meeting. He had purchased them in a retirement sale and I know he made a bit of profit and I still only paid $30. I have since purchased some of them off ebay and I found the ebay scissors to work identically to the original surgeon quality one I originally purchased. Maybe a surgeon could tell the difference but I sure can't.

The video of Bruce's presentation will be posted on the NRG's website very soon - it is in the hands of the webmaster already. Sorry but its only for NRG members however, once a member, this and many other presentations are viewable as long as membership is maintained.

I have found surgical scissors to be best for my use. They don't have to be German or Swiss made for this. Kurt

Whatever you try start with a brand new tool and don't use it for anything else. You will never be able to tell what will or will not work for you by trying tools used on other materials first. You can always use the brand new tool you tried and found not being the right tool on other tasks after you try it for rigging line but not the other way around. Kurt

Superb build and excellent craftsmanship. A model to be proud of. I love work boats and models like this reinforce my feelings. Kurt

I have the Microlux variable speed drill press with the digital readout. Also the Proxon XY table. Both are more than adequate for my needs with one exception - and all of these small presses have the same problem. The quill has only 1.5 inches of travel. No problem, right? When are you going to need more than 1.5 inches of travel? That limit combined with the short length of the support column makes it difficult to fit the XY table under the drill bit and severely limits any part to be drilled size. The solution is to obtain a longer column (pipe) to raise the drill assembly. I think Proxon lists a part number for a longer support column but you can certainly find a substitute off Amazon or elsewhere for probably half the price of the Proxon part. As long as it is the same diameter there should be no problem. I do not remember if the column is threaded on the lower end or if it is locked in with a set screw, but check the specs and you should be able to determine this before the purchase. As Proxon was your first choice, and the difference in the prices to the lower priced units is only about $50-$60 get the Proxon a nd the longer column right away. You are severely limited when using the XY table and why would you not be using it? Kurt