kurtvd19

Congratulations Ryland.

Oh no! two more photos to be ripped off to sell crap blocks! They are really nice Chuck. Kurt

For real clean cuts sandwich the brass or other soft metal between thin sheets of plywood and run them through your Preac, Byrnes or other small saw. I usually have a sandwich of Ply with a metal inner sheet glued together so when I need to cut a thin strip I can do so w/o delay. I used to use Duco Glue and dissolve the glue on the sandwich in Acetone but I now use Weldbond II or III and use Isopropyl Alcohol as the solvent. No burrs or wavy edges at all. Kurt

The size for use on a Preac is two-inch diameter. You have a saw blade, check it for the arbor size. I have an adapter for a larger arbor size that was purchased with the saw when new (early 90's NRG Conference) that enables use of a blade with a larger arbor hole - look carefully at your to see if it is equipped with the adapter as it gives a better choice of blades. Do a search here on MSW for a replacement supplier for Thurston Blades that were the original Preac blades. Somebody has the same sizes required. I will most likely never need to buy any as I have an adequate stock to last a long time. Kurt

I have two Byrnes saws. One is set up for ripping and the other for cross cutting. For crosscuts I use a fine tooth slitting blade - about 120 teeth - 44-inch blade. I also have a Preac saw - no longer made - I use a 2-inch slitting blade with medium teeth. It depends on the job which of the saws I use, but for real thin woods I tend to use the Preac, but the Byrnes saw with the slitting blade also handles the thin stuff nicely. I haven't used the NWSL Chopper in some time, but that's mostly because I have the power saws. Before I had the saws it was used a lot. If you keep a sharp blade installed it works fine for thin woods - up to 3/16-inch. Thicker than that and it will cut on a bit of an angle and the thicker the material the more the angle. If you plan to cut a lot of planks from sheet stock let me recommend the NRG's Thin Strip Saw Jig. Using this jig makes it easy to cut identical thin strips once it is set. Check it out at https://thenrgstore.org/collections/guild-products/products/thin-strip-saw-jig Full disclosure, I developed this jig for the Byrnes and Preac saws from observing several different jigs for use on full size table saws. It can be used on any small table saw with 12-inch guide slots. Take care, Kurt

Richard: I have the original Chopper and don't use it as often as I used to but I fixed the wear issue like you described by mixing up some epoxy and filling in the wear the blade makes to the cutting surface. I carefully filled the groove and then smoothed out the epoxy using a plastic credit card blank. It has held up for several years and it is about due to be refurbished the next time I use epoxy for anything around the shop. It still cut great the last time I used it and the fix is so easy so I will preemptively fill in the slight groove. Take care, Kurt

Best wishes for a speedy recovery from Mary and me. Take care, Kurt

Regarding the jogging. If anybody sees me out jogging, PLEASE kill whatever is chasing me!

Ron: These are now available on USB flash drives since most new computers don't come with CD drives any more. Glad you learned enough from them to post about their availability. Kurt

Bill: That article is by Toni Levine a NRG Director. Kurt

This was available from Syren Ship Models (sponsor here) - I didn't see it with a quick check, but ask Chuck about it. Kurt

Please provide a website URL when asking about products - didn't come up with a simple search. Kurt

Keith: That's exactly how I do it. Took me a couple of tries before I figured out not to fight gravity and work from the top down. Kurt

The Half Hull kit can be finished off as a complete model with the installation of the deck and masts - Use only a partial mast as in an Admiralty model if rigging is not something you have leared or don't wish to do. However, if you do the Rigging Kit you will know what is needed for a full half hull model. A lot of half hull models are not rigged. Kurrt

Many chains have a clear coating that needs to be removed for decent blackening. I soak the brass chain in warm Sparex (I use a small crock pot for this - it's not used in the kitchen, only in the shop!) to remove the coating. A thorough rinse in water and after drying the chain can be blackened. I dip it in and remove it letting the excess drain off over the container. Two dips is usually adequate to blacken chain. I will try the use of a a small, cheap paintbrush to "paint" the Brass Black onto the chain the next time I have to blacken chain to see how it compares to dipping it. I use the paintbrush method for rods, ladders and other parts that are too large for my small containers I use for most blackening. Kurt

You should look at the NRG's Planking Kit - https://thenrgstore.org/collections/plans-and-projects/products/half-hull-planking-project - It has a very complete tutorial guide on the proper way to plank a hull. There are a bunch or build logs here on MSW along with the build log by Toni Levine who designed the kit. This will aid you in planking future kits. Kurt

The NRG collaborated on this publication that is printed by FineScale Modeler's parent company. We provided the content, but they own the handbook. We will contact them and tell them many would really like to see a pdf version. If they say yes or no we will report back. Kurt

The first shipment of 100 Ship Modeler’s Handbooks sold out in less than 8 hours. There has been an unexpected demand for this issue, and we ordered more on March 11. The new order should arrive soon, so we have put them up for sale again. Please remember that while they are on order, we do not have a definite delivery date. When you place your order, we will process the sale, charging your card at that time. An envelope will be prepared right away, and the issue will ship as soon as stock is received here. Price - $13.99 Member 20% discount applies.

We ordered 100 copies thinking this would be a good number if we sold them all - eventually. We sure misjudged the appeal and have new order in for a bunch - promise to not be out of stock again - we will have a chance to see dwindling stock - 8 hours sure wasn't enough time!

The first shipment of 100 Ship Modeler’s Handbooks sold out in less than 8 hours. There has been an unexpected demand for this issue, and we ordered more on March 11. The new order should arrive soon, so we have put them up for sale again. Please remember that while they are on order, we do not have a definite delivery date. When you place your order, we will process the sale, charging your card at that time. An envelope will be prepared right away, and the issue will ship as soon as stock is received here. Price - $13.99 NRG Member 20% discount applies. If you don't know the discount code, contact our office. Kurt

The NRG is proud to announce the publication of the Ship Modeler’s Handbook. This limited-edition special issue, published by FineScale Modeler, is a collection of articles taken from our own Nautical Research Journal and Ships in Scale Magazine, as well as two original articles found exclusively in this Handbook. The Handbook will appeal to both new modelers and old hands. You will recognize most of the authors’ names, some of whom, sadly, are no longer with us. Available now in the NRG Store Price - $13.99 Member 20% discount applies. All funds stay with the NRG & MSW

With the currents in most rivers and the obstructions such as sand bars towing on the rope does not provide the control needed to thread one's way through the average river obstacle course. With the boat behind and a solid link to the barge, the towboat can set up to push through the turn as a single unit rather than trying to get a towed barge through the same space. Kurt

I have a working set of feathering side wheels I salvaged from a RC boat. Some European make that I can't think of right now. My intent was to use them as individually controlled stern wheels. I still have them but haven't built a RC boat in almost 30 years due to the weight of them and getting them in and out of the water. I have no idea of how effective they would be going in reverse. My original thoughts were that with a split stern wheel one could go into reverse and the other in forward and give a very much improved turning radius - maybe even able to spin around the wheel. Modern day riverboats have twin screws and routinely use one in forward and the other in reverse to set-up and to negotiate turns with barges. I used to have access to a small pond with a nice sunken area adjacent to the shoreline that had been cut out of the shoreline and a sheet of metal normally used for the sides of concrete piers used to separate the lower area from the water. A nice amount of stone was added so any water was well below the top of the stone and your feet stayed dry. The waterline was about at waist level with the top edge of the steel wall just about 6 inches higher. Perfect for putting RC boat in and out of the water w/o having to bend over much. If I still had access to that pond I might still be messing with RC boats.

The video of Part 2 is now posted in the member's area for viewing at any convenient time.

Saturday, February 22, 2015 BUILDING OKESA - Pt. 2 By Dr. Bob Jenkins https://thenrg.org/resources/Pictures/CROPPED%20-%20WITH%20MASTS%20FULL.jpg The model of OKESA is an example of boatbuilding in the US in the WWI era. Ships were critically needed to transport goods and troops and with steel being used for weapons and Navy ships it was decided that wooden ships could fill the need. The presentation on July 13 will be Part One of a multi part series on the building of this model. Part One will cover the history of the ship, the research necessary to obtain plans and other reference materials, and the construction of the model starting with the keel frames and building jig up to the point where the ship would have gone down the slipway to floating. Part Two will cover the details of the building and detailing the model from the weather decks and up. This will include deck houses, rigging, the wheelhouse interior details etc. The interior includes the triple expansion steam engine and the boiler among other details. A second steam engine and boiler were constructed to be mounted on the display board as shown in the lower right of the photograph. Part 2 will cover the details of the building and detailing of the model from the weather decks and up. This will include deck houses, rigging, the wheelhouse interior details etc. Build Log on MSW The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, February 22, at 10:30 AM CDS time. 11:30 AM – Eastern 10:30 AM – Central 9:30 AM – Mountain 8:30 AM – Pacific 4:30 PM – Greenwich Members: Check your email for the invitation and links