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kurtvd19

NRG Member
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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. Harbor Freight sells this saw for about 1/3 or 1/4 of the cost of the Micro Mark version - from the same mfg. Identical except labels - the last time I compared them. I purchased my say several years ago thinking if it got me through the project I was working on with a delivery deadline it was worth it - the tool would pay for itself. I completed the job on time and I still have this little workhorse and it's now at least 10 years old. If it ever dies, I will replace it with another from HF.
  2. They are an exact copy - ripped off after they were selling the original choppers - stopped ordering from NWSL and substituted their ripped off copies. Not the only instance of copying by MM.
  3. NW Short line is the OEM for the Chopper I, II and III Have a Chopper I for at least 25 years. When the base gets a groove from use, I fill the groove with epoxy and level it - good for another 5 years.
  4. Brian: Congratulations on completing a very beautiful model. River towboats are my favorite subject to model and I have been very happy to follow your build. Take care, Kurt
  5. I highly recommend that the paint manufacturers instructions be followed regarding thinning and only use the recommended thinner. There are way too many suggested alternatives floating around. You don't want to risk your time and effort in building a model to be ruined by an incompatible paint/thinner combination being used. Always test your paint/thinner application on an identical material before committing to your model. I highly recommend airbrushing for best appearances - an airbrush with the proper paint selection provides a scale like appearance much better than a paint brush. A properly thinned paint from an airbrush provides a near scale thickness of paint to the subject. An additional coat of paint just like in real life may be needed to cover thoroughly with much less chance of obscuring details. Take care, Kurt
  6. I understand that all contestant's have received their judges evaluation sheets. Also, as to a earlier question of showing the non-winning entries it was decided not to show them. Kurt
  7. Richard: Yellow Ochre powder can be mixed with water or alcohol and "Painted" onto the surfaces where you do not want solder to flow onto during soldering operations. Let it dry and then apply your flux and solder the part. I always use alcohol because the alcohol / yellow ochre solution dries much quicker than when water is used. Yellow Ochre is a flux repellent and where the flux won't go neither will the solder. The solution can be kept in a small jar or other lidded container and if it dries between uses just add water or alcohol to make it liquid again. This will greatly reduce the amount of clean up needed after soldering. I learned about this from Ken Foran's book Modeling With Brass - the 2nd edition has an added section on ship modeling using brass. In my opinion this book belongs in every serious modelers collection - but only after it has been read cover to cover. Take care, Kurt
  8. I was referring to the lack of free-board. A decent wave would have swamped the ship. I have seen photos of lumber boats on the Great Lakes loaded even higher and there are a lot of them on the bottom to prove they loaded it too high this time.
  9. I worked as a Mechanical Engineer back in the late 60s and early 70s in record change and tape recorder mechanisms. We used one of the earliest C/A glues, Eastman 910, to secure rubber parts to metal. I have samples that are as strong as the day they were glued up. Some of the rubber has started to deteriorate, but not adjacent to the glue joint. I have a model ship that was made back in 1988 or 1989 using Bob Smith C/A glue and their accelerator that is here in my house that is in perfect condition. We used C/A for the quick setting as the models were built in Manila and the humidity there is always very high - about 90% - the only time it doesn't feel like 90% is when it is raining and you haven't experienced rain until you experience a SE Asia Monsoon. I trust good C/A especially the Bob Smith brand and don't hesitate to use it where applicable. I do prefer to use Titebond glues due to a longer working time but when I need something to stick right away I reach for the C/A. Kurt
  10. Not the other day, but when I talked with Donna a few weeks back she gave me the name of a guy looking for a rope walk that contacted her using the contact us option. I don't know if she looks at it every day, but it does get looked at. She most likely has your name on the list for whatever you used the form for.
  11. Use the "CONTACT US" feature on the web site. She has no stock and I looking to see who wants what when available. When you say extension table to you mean the larger table top? It is a replacement for the stock top that comes with the saw and includes the fence to fit the larger table top. I talked to Donna on Wednesday and she does monitor the website Contact Us area. Kurt
  12. Just coming aboard a long way into this build. Very interesting as usual. I love the one of a kind builds you do Keith. As to the wrinkles at the top of the aft sign, I think they might be paint blisters almost ready to flake off. Can't be a fabric - the line through the name is a separation gap between two boards - in my opinion. Kurt
  13. The all metal Unimat that YT showed certainly isn't what you can buy today. That's the version I was always saving up for (1960 to 1965) but something else always was needed first. When I got back to modeling it was no longer available like it had been and I went in another direction and eventually got a Taig and then a Sherline.
  14. I have owned both a Taig and a Sherline lathe. Both are excellent machines. The Taig will do all you want - the only reason I got the Sherline though was because the price was just about free - couldn't turn it down, but I can't do anything with the Sherline I can't do with the Taig. I am not a machinist and only a machinist can use a Sherline to it's full capacity. Kurt
  15. What is the brand and where did you purchase it? Also, did you make the disc sander? If not who made it and where did you buy it? I can check out the sources and see if they are interested in becoming MSW sponsors. Take care, Kurt
  16. I don't know. I judged but wasn't involved in the management of it. I will ask.
  17. Winners of the NRG's 2025 Photographic Ship Model Contest are listed below. The winning models will be featured in the Winter issue of the Nautical Research Journal due out in December. Look for photos here in January. 2025 Photo Contest Medal Winners Master’s Class GOLD Steve Anderson “Victory” Oceano, CA SILVER (Tied) Walter Zimmerman “Essex” State College, PA Ron Neilson “Camilla” Warrington, PA BRONZE William “Mike” McFadden “German Patrol Boat” Scottsdale, AZ Journeyman’s Class GOLD T. R. Mayer “Fort Valley” Brunswick, ME SILVER Richard Fernandez “L’Unite” Freehold, NJ BRONZE Dan Pacholski “Katy of Norfolk” South Elgin, IL Apprentice’s Class GOLD Matthew Bergman “Norwegian Sailing Pram” Alton, ON Canada SILVER Eamonn Bermingham “Ballahoo” Arklow, CO Wicklow, Ireland BRONZE Vaidas Guogis “Kurenkahn” Vilnius, Lithuania Best in Show Steve Anderson “Victory” Oceano, CA
  18. Congratulations Keith. Another great build. Very realistic load on the barge. The two builds look good together. Can't wait for the next build. Kurt
  19. The video of this presentation is now posted on the NRG website in the member's section of the Events area. https://thenrg.org/events/workshops Kurt
  20. I had the opportunity to tour the M/V Mississippi when it was brand new - a magnificent boat! I modeled a little truckable tow like the one shown. It was 1/12 scale and we used it as a retrieval boat for our radio control meets. Some didn't believe these little things could move barges around. Kurt
  21. Mike: Donna promises that the quality will be the same. There is a guy currently working with Donna who was working with Jim and is looking good for taking over the business. We ship modelers as a group were very important to her & Jim and it's it's still very important to her to maintain availability of the tools as well as the quality of the tools and she will be closely involved until she is sure the company is maintaining the high standards and then she plans to retire.
  22. The business will be able to produce and sell all their machines on or about January 1, 2026 according to Donna when I spoke to her on 10/9/2025. Currently available: 4” carbide blades with 24 and 36 teeth available for immediate sale. If you are sure you want a specific tool as soon as it is available send an email to the business email using the Contact Us link on the website https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com Donna reminded me that the Rope Walk Machine will no longer be produced but that they have most of the small accessories for its operation available. Kurt
  23. Consider using dilute white glue applied with a paint brush to tame the fuzz.
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