kurtvd19

Consider using dilute white glue applied with a paint brush to tame the fuzz.

Too bad you didn't use line from Ropes of Scale or similar - no fuzz on those. Would you consider upgrading? The rest of the model deserves it!

I had to take a couple of days and work off the outdoor fall "honey-do" list, however the davits are painted, mounted on the ship, and rigged. Here is the aft motorboat davit, the clothespin maintains tension while the 'No-Sew' sets up on the cleat...
I have no clear photos of the bottom davit bracket, so I made a fitting that is functional and conforms to what I can see on pictures...
I see some fuzz on the line, not sure how I'm going to deal with this since it will be very difficult to replace the line at this point. 
Any Suggestions??

Here is the motorboat secured to the falls and lashed down to the cradles. I added a pin to each cradle on which to hang the falls. This seemed to be the best arrangement given the close quarters and absence of pin rails.

And here is the dinghy... Sailors can handle the lines without leaning outboard...

The poop deck is very tight with the boats installed, so although the spare rudder can still fit under the cradles, I don't think it is practical to stow it there because it would be very difficult to handle it. I am thinking good thoughts about stowing it in the waist like it is on St. Roch today...??
 
This evening I will print the decals, but there is a three day relative riot happening because this is the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend, so I won't get them on until next week. Once the decals are on the hull will finally be complete and I can move on to the masts and standing rigging!
 
Thanks for looking in, and any suggestions and comments are always appreciated.
Happy Canadian Turkey Day,
Bruce
 
 
 

The answer, of course, is get a bigger blowtorch...
 
My little Dremel blowtorch wasn't capable of heating the whole piece up enough to anneal it sufficiently. Last night I got a really hot (open) coal fire going and tried to use that. Placing the piece amongst the glowing coals did generate enough heat to get it glowing red hot, but it was difficult to control and I ended up melting the ends of two attempts.
 
So today i bought a bigger blowtorch (the one on the left). That did the trick. Plenty of heat to get the piece red hot with sufficient control to avoid melting any of it...

The results of about 15 cycles of heating a piece of 0.2mm thick brass sheet to red hot, quenching in water and bashing with a brass hammer over my former can be seen below. Not quite trimmed to fit yet, but I've achieved the shape I need...

 
 
 

Roel:
Do you have a build log of this barge?
Kurt

Roel:
Do you have a build log of this barge?
Kurt

To my own surprise it seems not. I thought it was one of my first shared builds, but it appears I've only put her in the gallery here: 
https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/album/2675-split-barge-bengel-1400/

Roel:
Do you have a build log of this barge?
Kurt

Probably...I am thinking of doing something new with this capstan project...and the internally stropped blocks.
 
There are a lot of folks who have 3d printers and a laser cutter these days.  So I am thinking about doing a group project here at MSW and releasing all the files.  Then doing a tutorial on how to assemble the project and color the pieces.   But yes I will also mfg all the parts for folks who dont have that equipment.  Or who knows...maybe one of the group will to do that.   As I get closer to retirement I am trying to concentrate on teaching and mentoring rather than just making money.   So the Capstan Project uses a lot of laser cutting techniques that folks still dont use.   I dont know why.  Like laser cutting on both sides of a piece etc.
 
And 
 
So many parts these days are available as 3D printed parts but they have to be painted or dyed.   The internally stropped blocks need to be painted and its no different.  But many folks dont know how to make parts look like wood quickly and easily and make them look realistic.  I have to tweak the blocks to make the sheave slots a bit wider which means a day of CAD corrections but these worked out great.   I think making the stl files available and then talking about washing and curing and then finishing the parts would make a great online class.  It takes just a minute to properly paint these blocks.  So many people offer 3D printed wood parts that dont look anything like wood.  So this class would at help.   The three blocks in the foreground were finished just this morning in about 10 minutes.   The original untreated 3D prints are behind it.  It makes a world of difference.   Then we would graduate to the Capstan project...
 
The capstan project would make an excellent group project for any local club...I am hoping that at least one or two members of each local club might have the equipment and could possibly make a dozen kits for their own clubs.
 
But that is just a pipe dream at this point...
 
What do you guys think?
 
 
 

Finally found time to finish designing internally Stropped Blocks that will be 3d printed.
 
I am not the best at CAD and as a few you know about me...I literally design most of my stuff using Tinkercad.   I outsource the complex stuff but anything that can be done with this free program meant for kids 8 to 12 years old....I am there.
 
I am doing a test printing today.  Many of my parts are made using TinkerCad and one of these days I will do a tutorial.   If you want to make parts for 3D printing and dont know real CAD like me....give it a try.  You can do about 80% of everything in this program.  You can add as much detail as you have patience for.  You will of course have to paint the metal parts black...or not.  Its up to you but its still a lot easier than building my other internally stropped blocks.

 



And below is another project I have been playing with.  No limited edition for this but it will be a nice group project for my club.  We have since completed the battlestation project and so I am now working on our next project.  Working pawl mechanism and all.  All of these parts also made using just tinkercad.  All of the hard parts are no designed and completed.  

Thank you to everyone for the kind comments and the likes. 
 
 I've decided the barge size will be approximately 30 x 100 feet. It will be a simple barge without any dredging equipment as seen in the photo below (the barge stern, towboat bow) and will be pretty rough in appearance. I think creating realistic dredged material will be the most challenging part of the build.  

 
  It just keeps gettin' uglier. 
 
   Keith

Thank you for the comments and likes.
 
 
 This ugly Hard Coal Navy towboat is done with the exception of a couple of spots I noticed in the photos that need to touch up but that's  only a matter of a couple of minutes effort. 
 
 The deckhand has taken his rightful place. 

 
 I like this view because the skipper can be seen in the pilothouse.

 

 

 

 
 When the boiler's firebox in cleaned out the clinkers and ash are flat nose shoveled over the side. 

 
 I have extra chain in the winches but won't know how much until the barge is lashed.

 

 
 Thank you so much for your support and for taking the time to follow this journey.
 
   Keith

I have finished fabricating the davits... I added keepers to each pulley so the falls won't slip off. I extended the shafts to the correct length for St. Roch, based on photos. I also opened the eyelet at the tip that will receive the upper block for the falls, this should make it easier to do the final assembly...

The davits mount outboard, and period photos show they rest on the rub rail and fasten there as well as to the cap rail. The latter, from plans and photos, appears to be a strap that is wrapped around the davit and then bolted flat to the cap. I have replicated this using scrap brass from old photo-etch frets. The davits are also placed relative to the lower deck portholes based on photos.  

In the picture I am trial fitting the motorboat davits to the cap rail. I still have to make the base mounts and then it is off to the paint booth. I have also decided, in the absence of definitive evidence, to hang the falls' coils on pins that I will install onto the cradles. This keeps these lines handy, and more importantly, inboard!
As always, comments and suggestions are welcome!
 
 

Thank you to everyone for the comments and likes.
 
 
 The handrail is finished and with that the heavy lifting for this ugly duck is done but I still have a couple of days adding the final details. After just four months the push boat portion of this build log is almost done and then it's onto making the barge.   
 
 I've answered all the initial port side questions as best I could and I'm pretty pleased with the results. In the beginning the port side blank spot had me intimidated but as I added known elements the port side mysteries slowly revealed themselves.
 
   
 

 

 

 
 I wish I could take credit for meticulous planning the pump placement where everything would fit like a glove but that's not the case. I placed it where I thought it should go but in truth it's much more of "even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then". 

 

 
 Thank you for your support and for following along.
 
   Keith

It's also the slight difference in color from one board to the next that makes it that much more realistic. Beautiful decking, LJP.  

I said earlier that the next time I showed the ship's boats they would be installed on St. Roch; and here they are!
First I lashed the lower fall blocks to eyes in each boat...

Then when I went to install the boat covers, some of the holes tore, so I had to digress a little bit and fit doublers of silkspan wherever there were grommet holes...

After trimming the doublers I could begin to lash down each cover, using bowlines at each of the 'darn cat ears'... this picture shows the motorboat cover lashing started, and the upper falls with their eye splices...

Next up are the bow and stern lashings on the dinghy cover...


And the motorboat cover complete. Keen eyes will see I have installed the boat's rudder and am waiting for the prop...

And finally here are the boats all lashed down and secured to their cradles!


I can't put it off any longer... I have to finish the davits!
Thanks for looking in, and as always comments and critiques are welcome!
Regard,
Bruce
 

NEW VIRTUAL WORKSHOP
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2025
10:30 AM – CENTRAL
Researching & Building a Model of the Triremene Olympias
By Richard Braithwaite
The NRG is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting.  Click the link below no earlier than 15 minutes before the start time for your location (listed above) to attend the Workshop.  Please give the speakers and hosts time to set up before the listed start time. There are plenty of seats for all.  Your help in this will be appreciated.
11:30 AM- EASTERN TIME
10:30 AM - CENTRAL TIME
9:30 AM - MOUNTAIN TIME
8:30 - AM PACIFIC TIME
15:30 GMT
In early 480 BC, the Athenians, fearing an invasion by the Persians, sent a delegation to the Oracle at Delphi seeking guidance.  “Why sit you doomed one?” the Oracle responded.  “Fly to the ends of the earth. All is ruin for fire and headlong god of war shall bring you low.” 
In response to this alarming prophecy, the Athenians sent a second delegation hoping for a less apocalyptic response.  Asked again, the Oracle answered, “though all else shall be taken, Zeus the all-seeing grants that the wooden wall only shall not fail.” 
Many interpreted the “wooden wall” as a palisade around the Acropolis, but Themistocles, the Athenian strategos (or General) convinced the people that the Oracle referred to the wooden walls of the fleet of 200 triremes Athens had constructed over the prior three years. 
In late 480 BC, Xerxes the Great, the Persian King, sitting on a golden throne, watched the destruction of his fleet.  Two hundred Athenian (and allied) triremes destroyed six to eight hundred triremes assembled by the Great King.  The “wooden walls” protected Athens. 
https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/meips/ADKq_Na4WD4K-gZaAxIIi5T4c12RHnsbHQHehNXo4WDV56KSE7ojr3TU_dxGD1x3yHL5LoWVWNsIdzlyn5tHe_sEgewdqeVUBWaENCnXpnOfNmr1Ztr4Q26biNTQNPp8ERshRg8=s0-d-e1-ft#https://thenrg.org/resources/Pictures/03572d1ec8124e05b3658cfb226af150.jpeg
Image from MSW Build Log
"I'm planning to include the background to the project and the construction of the hull, which all came before I started this build log and will do my best to answer any questions you have."  Richard Braithwaite
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21958-trireme-olympias-by-richard-braithwaite/#comment-656491
MSW Build Log Link
 
ALL NRG MEMBERS SHOULD HAVE RECEIVED THIS & ZOOM LINK BY EMAIL - A REMINDER WILL BE SENT OUT ON 10-09-2025

NEW VIRTUAL WORKSHOP
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2025
10:30 AM – CENTRAL
Researching & Building a Model of the Triremene Olympias
By Richard Braithwaite
The NRG is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting.  Click the link below no earlier than 15 minutes before the start time for your location (listed above) to attend the Workshop.  Please give the speakers and hosts time to set up before the listed start time. There are plenty of seats for all.  Your help in this will be appreciated.
11:30 AM- EASTERN TIME
10:30 AM - CENTRAL TIME
9:30 AM - MOUNTAIN TIME
8:30 - AM PACIFIC TIME
15:30 GMT
In early 480 BC, the Athenians, fearing an invasion by the Persians, sent a delegation to the Oracle at Delphi seeking guidance.  “Why sit you doomed one?” the Oracle responded.  “Fly to the ends of the earth. All is ruin for fire and headlong god of war shall bring you low.” 
In response to this alarming prophecy, the Athenians sent a second delegation hoping for a less apocalyptic response.  Asked again, the Oracle answered, “though all else shall be taken, Zeus the all-seeing grants that the wooden wall only shall not fail.” 
Many interpreted the “wooden wall” as a palisade around the Acropolis, but Themistocles, the Athenian strategos (or General) convinced the people that the Oracle referred to the wooden walls of the fleet of 200 triremes Athens had constructed over the prior three years. 
In late 480 BC, Xerxes the Great, the Persian King, sitting on a golden throne, watched the destruction of his fleet.  Two hundred Athenian (and allied) triremes destroyed six to eight hundred triremes assembled by the Great King.  The “wooden walls” protected Athens. 
https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/meips/ADKq_Na4WD4K-gZaAxIIi5T4c12RHnsbHQHehNXo4WDV56KSE7ojr3TU_dxGD1x3yHL5LoWVWNsIdzlyn5tHe_sEgewdqeVUBWaENCnXpnOfNmr1Ztr4Q26biNTQNPp8ERshRg8=s0-d-e1-ft#https://thenrg.org/resources/Pictures/03572d1ec8124e05b3658cfb226af150.jpeg
Image from MSW Build Log
"I'm planning to include the background to the project and the construction of the hull, which all came before I started this build log and will do my best to answer any questions you have."  Richard Braithwaite
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21958-trireme-olympias-by-richard-braithwaite/#comment-656491
MSW Build Log Link
 
ALL NRG MEMBERS SHOULD HAVE RECEIVED THIS & ZOOM LINK BY EMAIL - A REMINDER WILL BE SENT OUT ON 10-09-2025

Keith, the hog chains have made a huge difference in her look. Very nice!

Thank you for the likes and the kind comments.
 
 
 I'm inching ever closer to the finish as I got the hog chains (such as they are) made and attached. 

 
 Added some weathering 

 
 The post that the hog chain rod passes through are 0.20 inches high and the hole is 0.15 inches high from the deck. The post are a little wider than I wanted but I needed the extra gluing surface, 

 
That is one mighty turnbuckle but looking at the original photo below the arrow points to the turnbuckle end level with the water line. 

 

 
 Thank you for your support and for being part of the journey. 
 
    Keith

Hey Everyone. hope you are all doing good. Thank you very much for the Comments and Likes. This update will be about the completion of the aft cabins. Once most the siding was installed, the parts were dry fitted in place to check for square.
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
The parts were then glued together and weighted down for a day.
 

 
The structure was then removed and the siding was finished
 

 
After a couple of coats of paint the cabins were installed
 

 
 

 
 

 
I guess my mind was elsewhere because I forgot to glaze the windows first but it still went okay. The glazing was made from a divider from a spiral wound notebook. One side is glossy and the other side has a rough texture so the glossy side faces out. They were a friction fit but white PVA was still used to hold them in place. 
 

 
The next items that needed to be addressed were the pillars at the forward end of the superstructure. A sheet of 1/16" basswood was laid on top of the cabins to get the height of the boat deck. After getting all of the measurements the pillars were assembled and and just dry fitted in order to get more measurements.
 

 
 

 
 

 
I have been using Glad Press'N'Seal to line the jigs when gluing is involved. It slicks well to everything but is easy to remove. The door hinges and knobs are glued on the inside of  the cabins with E6000 glue. This is what I have been using when I don't want to use CA. And here is that notebook divider.
 

 
There is a lot of stuff going on with the cabin deck. I am starting to install the stanchions that support the boat deck. Hope to see you soon.

All NRG members will be getting their invitations with the ZOOM link later today.  This promises to be a great presentation.
Kurt

I'm aware that I need to get an update done. These photos represent what Surprise currently looks like.
 
Over this week, I'll prep some closer detail shots of construction etc that got me to this place. As you can see, she's changed quite a lot. The fit has been great throughout. I also need to paint those figures too! Please excuse photo quality. I did these with my phone.
 

The boiler deck has been planked.  My four piles (plus some more) of 1/8 by 1/32 by approximately 6-inch basswood boards were used.  

 
Time to get started on the superstructure: saloons, staterooms, galley, &c. 
 

All NRG members will be getting their invitations with the ZOOM link later today.  This promises to be a great presentation.
Kurt