tartane

Hi Tom, Do not lay the grain of the several pieces of veneer in the same direction. Of course that will not work. Constant

There was a question about the recoil of the cannon when it was fired. In the side walls of the shooting niches, no traces of iron anchors to secure the cannons have been found. That seems a bit strange given the recoil and reversing of the guns. I found a video about firing a replica of a cannon from the Mary Rose. The cannon used is heavier in caliber than the replica I made and the recoil must have been greater there. It is clear to see on that video that the backlash was not that intense at all. I think that with the replica in the Bourgonjetoren in Zutphen, that recoil could easily be absorbed by placing sandbags behind the wheels and the vertical beam https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3bR9qN6HYY Constant

8 In the previous post, something went wrong at the end. Here are some more pictures to end this topic Thanks for all your likes! Constant

7 Zuil met bedieningshandel = Column with service handle. Uitlaat dieselmotor = diesel engine exhaust Bolder = Bollard Vuldop brandstoftank = Fuel Tank Filler Cap Luik naar motorcompartiment = hatch to engine compartment Vuldop watertank = Water Tank Filler Cap Schijnwerper voor in tunnels = Floodlight for tunnels Luik waaronder butaglasflessen = Hatch to butane gas bottles. On the roof and on the side walls the name of the boat, in this case that of the client's wife. On the front on the side panels is the mandatory number for all boats. In this case, it's my own date of birth. The model stands on a base of two baffles between which are copper threaded rods in brass tubes. Constant

6 The last major part was the roof on the cabin. I made it in two parts. This roof is slightly curved. It consists of three layers of 0.6 mm thick plywood. These were fixed on a bent mould. Between the layers came the wood glue. After drying, that curved shape remained. In the photo, the mold is visible next to the parts of the roof. The short part is fixed and the long part is removable to view the interior. This fixed part is necessary to ensure the stability of the model. In the roof there is a sliding hatch that closes at night, and is open during the day, which is necessary to be able to access the stairs. On the roof of the cabin there is a lifebuoy and a boathook according to regulations. A deck mop is also an indispensable part. Furthermore, the various ventpipes for the toilet, shower and extractor hood of the kitchen are located in the right places. Constant

5 The side walls with the windows each consist of three layers of plywood. The outer one is 1 mm thick, the middle one is 1.5 mm, and the inner one is 0.8 mm. In the middle layer, sheets of perspex of 1.5 mm are included. The outer and inner layers have been painted/varnished in advance and temporarily attached to each other. On the blue background a layer of tape on which the windows were drawn, which were then sawn out. The frames of the windows were taped and painted. In the middle layer, slightly larger openings were cut out in which sheets of perspex. After gluing those three layers together, the windows became visible as glass and the side panels were ready to be mounted. The front and rear were then painted and the two bulkheads of the cabin were made and finished. In both partitions there were doors with perspex as glass After that, the side panels could be installed. Inside the cabin, everything was completed. Fenders were installed at the bow and stern, especially necessary so as not to damage anything in the narrow locks during the locks. In the model, they are pieces of cork that have been cut into the right shape. They are attached with chains and rods. Constant

Hi Tom, I think you are building a beautiful boat. But may I perhaps make a small point of criticism? You use plywood for the rafters. That comes into view and then I find it disturbing that you can see the three layers of wood so clearly, especially when they are varnished. This is easy to avoid. Simply make your own plywood by gluing together a number of layers of veneer of the type of wood you find suitable. If you cut the trusses from it, the ends are completely even. The best way to do this is to use two flat planks, for example 12 mm plywood. You provide each of them with cello tape on one side to prevent the glue from adhering to the boards. Then you put the required amount of pieces of veneer between those planks, provided with wood glue, best is to dilute that glue a bit, Then you clamp the planks firmly together and let it dry for a long time. The latter is important because it causes the glue to dry a bit slowly in the air. In this way, you can also determine any thickness of trusses, without being bound to the standard sizes of the plywood. All these small trusses are made according to the above method succes Constant

4 The top of the boat must be kept as low as possible to be able to pass under the many low bridges. As a result, there has to be a staircase to get to the bottom of the boat. Here the steps are between two cabinets. On one side is a cupboard for the ship's technology, on the other side is a hanging cupboard. In front of that, two single beds with a narrow passage. Walking from the back to the front, from right to left, the following spaces appear; 1. A toilet with washbasin 2. A hanging cupboard 3. One double bed 4. Toilet/shower/sink and a cupboard 5. Kitchenette with cooking facilities 6. Lounge 7. Stairs to the forecastle One of the panels for the electric heating, here against the side of the toilet. The living room with the kitchen. The table can be lowered so that it becomes a double bed with the sofa. The insides of the toilet, the wardrobe and the shower room. Constant

3 At the stern there is always a fence, sometimes equipped with a bench, against which the skipper leans while sailing. This is also where he operates the rudder and levers for the engine. I made this fence out of 2 mm thick brass on which I also soldered the supports. It was then mounted on the aft deck. A hole was drilled through the deck in which a tube was glued in which the rudder pin can turn. The rudder blade and propeller, both soldered to brass, were then mounted. On the model, the tiller can move and the propeller can also rotate in a tube lengthwise of the model. Underneath the propeller is a steel beam that is mandatory in every narrowboat to prevent damage to the thresholds of the locks and the propeller itself. The tiller has a characteristic shape that is the same for every boat. After the hull under the upper bumper had been painted completely silk matt black, work could start on the interior. Constant

2 For the most part, the hull of the model is built of 8 mm thick MDF. This allowed the structure of the boat to be determined. In that structure, the location of the engine, the fuel tank and the water tank were already taken into account. Strips of 1 mm thick plywood were installed along it. Curved round at the back and ending in a point at the front. After drying and filing, the characteristic bow was glued to it, which is almost the same for every narrowboat. A deck hatch was then placed on the forecastle and later also the filler cap for the water tank. As far as possible, everything on the outside was painted in grey. Commercially available semi-circular strips of PVC were used to make the protruding edges along the hull. These were glued to the hull after examples in photos. These edges are intended to protect the hull when sanding along the edges of the locks. In the last picture you can already see that bulkheads have been placed in the boat that form the partitions of the various compartments. A temporary bulkhead is placed in the front of the hull so that the boat could be turned upside. Constant

1 I built this model in 2016, so a few years ago, at the request of someone who had sailed on such a boat a number of times during holidays. In England it is possible to rent such a boat for some time and go out yourself in the canals in the middle of England. Originally they were cargo ships, but nowadays hundreds of newly built ones sail through this area. Moreover, many of these ships are permanently inhabited. My client wanted to use this model to show family and friends how much fun it can be to sail on such a narrowboat. Just an example They are very narrow, no wider than 2.08 m, which is necessary to pass through the many locks that do not have a wider passage than 2.13 m. The maximum length is 21.9 m, which has to do with the length of the locks in those canals. I determined the length of the model to be 717 mm, which comes down to an actual length of 18 m, which is the most common occurrence in reality. The difficulty was that there were no blueprints to be found anywhere. Extensive research yielded nothing, so it seemed as if this belonged to the English state secrets. Only the head sizes are known. Still, there had to be a drawing and I made it mostly on the basis of photos of people so that I could determine the necessary measurements after comparing and calculating. The client gave instructions for the layout of the interior. Drawings of the layout of such boats were available at the various rental companies, but they gave no indications about the construction and the heights. Photos of the boats lying on land for maintenance gave clues about the situation below the waterline. With the help of all this data, I made a drawing on a scale of 1 : 25 that served as a working drawing for the construction from that moment on. The stern The bow As a result, it has become a model of a non-existent boat, which accurately meets the standard dimensions. The painting is entirely at own discretion. By the way, it could be that there is a boat sailing around in this outfit, because after a quick comparison with photos it turns out that no two boats are the same. Constant

Two beams next to each other between which the foremast is clamped? Constant

Translate the text to English,. To do this, select the text and a message will appear;; translate section to English or any language you want. In the upper right corner of your screen, the translation will appear, then go to; translate entire page, and everything will be fine. If you want to enlarge or reduce the drawings, go to a copy shop. Write on the drawing you have exactly how much you want to enlarge it, for example 0.58 x and give it to the man who is going to do it. Always works, Constant

I read that you were harassed by a member on a previous forum. That happened to me when I was on the model building forum in the Netherlands. Eventually I left and now feel more at home on this forum. It may be about the same person that has caused many people to leave. Was his first name Stephan? Ridiculous that something like this happens. I can imagine that he is very jealous of your expertise. I think you do a great job and hope to hear more from you! Really beautiful. Constant

Yesterday I saw your report on this project for the first time. Great to see and read! I will follow you because I am very curious about the sculptures you are going to make. I built a few ships that involved quite a bit of carving on a scale of 1:87. I made that from pear wood that I selected from old utensils. I plan to build a state yacht on that scale but I hesitate because I don't know if I can finish the many sculptures. I hope to learn something from your reports about materials and methods. Constant