trippwj

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 6 – Keel Rabbet and Waterstops
The keel rabbet provided a seat for the garboard strakes – the strakes of bottom planking next to the keel.  These strakes were 9” thick and were bolted through the outside edge into the keel as well as into the frames.  The v-notch of the rabbet on these ships was slightly different than the 60 degree triangle of 18C RN ships.  It was less sharp and deep. 
 
(Note:  Having just finished an 18th Century Royal Navy vessel and knowing there is a large following for these types on the forum, I will try to point out differences in structural design that may be of interest.  To do this I will use the abbreviation "18C RN" for the earlier types.)
 
To form the rabbet,  I used a scraper cut from a piece of stainless plate.  I have a lot of these small pieces lying around and they have been useful for this.  The first picture shows the scraper being roughed out with a jeweler’s saw.
 

 
The picture below shows the final filed out shape of the scraper.  The cutting edge is left square - but with sharp cutting corners on both faces.
 
 
 

 
The scraper is dimensioned to ride along the bottom of the keel.  The cut is finished when the scraper bottoms on the side.  Both these rubbing surfaces were rounded over and smoothed to avoid marring the sides and bottom of the keel.
 
The next picture shows one of the first passes on the keel
 

 
The next picture shows the keel with the finished rabbet.  Actually, I did not go all the way to the sharp edge at this stage.  I can use this cutter later, after the frames are set to finish the rabbet – when that sharp upper corner is more protected.
 
 
 

 
I may have mentioned earlier, that these ships had no rising wood (or hogg) over the keel.  Generally the frames were bolted directly to the keel with long through bolts.  Because of this, waterstops were needed to prevent leakage through the joints in the keel into the hull.  The rising wood effectively blocked this path in the earlier ships.   Although the garboard strakes would be caulked along the rabbet, this did not seal off the keel itself.  To eliminate this leakage, holes were bored through the keel at the inside of the rabbet and plugged with long fir dowels, effectively sealing off the top lip of the scarph.  I decide to install these.
 
The first picture shows the keel being drilled through the rabbet to accept a three inch waterstop cylinder.
 

 
The next picture shows a drawn 3" dowel being test fit.
 

 
These were actually driven in with a touch of wood glue.  The excess was then clipped off and the V of the rabbet formed at the ends with a razor blade.
 
The last picture is one of those close-ups that make me cringe, showing a scarph joint,  the central wedge and the waterstop under the upper lip.  This picture also shows the joint line left using the dark glue.
 

 
 
The slightly flat edge, left – for now - at the top of the rabbet can be seen in this picture.  The picture also gives a pretty good idea of the finish left by the scraper.  The rabbet has not been sanded – nor should it be – to avoid rounding over the corners.
 
These waterstops are a nice little detail.  Of course no one will ever see them without having very good eyesight and knowing where to look.  they went rather quickly, however, so the cost was small.
 
I guess the next work will be either the stem or the stern post.
 
Ed

Beautiful looking tug, Jim. Love it!!

Holy Cow, Sherry - that is amazing!  There are not enough superlatives in the English language to truly describe that - AWESOME!!!!  BEAUTIFUL!!!! 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 5 – Keel Structure
So, finally some real work and some pictures.
 
Young America’s keel was sided 16” by 31 inches deep.  The main body of the keel was two tiered.  The upper tier was 15” deep and the lower was 12” deep.  In all of these posts I will use the word “was” rather freely, since original scantlings lists do not exist.  “Was” will mean based on the best data and/or reasonable assumptions.  In general, I relied heavily on the more complete data for Challenge.  I think that extrapolation is a reasonable approach.  One builders sidings were not all that different from one ship to the next – unless the first was not successful.  Under the two main members is a 4” shoe – a sacrificial protective covering of the main members and boltheads..  This was installed just before launch by removing blocks under the keel slipping it in and fastening it.
 
I will not dwell on my sawmill operations.  These were well covered in the opening parts of the Naiad posts.  The first picture shows some blanks for the keel members and a piece of the swiss pear material from a few steps upstream in the process.
 

 
The pear was cut into the piece shown at the top from a roughly 2” thick by 12” wide by x feet long piece.  The planks were then cut to rough size on a bandsaw and reduced to final thickness (16”) on a thickness sander.  One edge was then planed straight using the small modeling plane at the top – so the final pieces could be accurately ripped to size.  The next picture showns all of the pieces needed to make the keel – cut to final width and depth.
 

 
The members were then cut to final length based on the drawing shown above.  Because of the large number of bolts through the actual keel, placement of joints relative to each other, masts, etc., the lengths had to be laid out carefully beforehand to avoid interferences.  I did this on the drawing for the model, even though many of the invisible bolts will not be installed.  The next picture shows a typical joint of the type used in the top two tiers.
 

 
The joints are hook scarphs with wedge driven into the center.  They are identical except for size to the larger keelson scarph shown on the drawing.  That view shows the typical bolting for one of these joints.  It also shows one large bolt through the keel for each floor and another longer bolt through the entire keel/keelson centered on the frame timbers aft of the floors.  The next picture shows one of the lower tier joints being glued.
 

 
Darkened Titebond wood glue is used to give a subtle highlighting to the joints.  The two parts were clamped with light pressure, the wedge shown was driven through to make the ends butt, and finally the clamps were fully tightend.  Excess glue was washed off with clean water – hence the darkened area.
 
With the lower tier fully assembled, the upper tier was added on piece at a time as shown in the next picture.
 

 
To keep the final two-tier assembly straight, a straightedge and the flat top of the shipway was used to clamp the pieces.  Waxed paper was used underneath to prevent gluing to the shipway.  The next picture shows some joints in the final three layer structure.
 
 

 
The final picture shows the assembled keel lying on the shipway drawing.  It is an actual 37” long.  Full length keels make for pretty boring photos, but here it is.
 

 
The next step will be to form the rabbet on either side of the top – at least partially.  The top corners of the final rabbets are quite sharp and fragile and will be subject to damage during erection of the frames.  However, I want to cut at least some of the rabbet now so water stops can be inserted before framing,  but after the bulk of the rabbet has been scraped out.  This will be discussed further in the next parts.
 

Ed

Sorry, Brad, I missed that question.  Right now I am just hoping to enjoy the leisure of the build and the build log.  Any question of a book would be out there in the future.
 
Ed

I really like Michael's "definition" for what I am doing.
It's actually quite true.
 
So....I did some more "juggling the order" and decided to carve the figurehead. It's not that I don't like planking, it's just a tad monotonous compared to other tasks.
 
The figurehead is in 2 pieces and was hand carved from a small block of basswood. The scalpel in the photo is for size comparison.
 
The figurehead appears larger than it really is when dry fitted on the stem because of the angle of the photograph. (That being said - it is probably a little off scale, but I'm happy with and will leave it as is.)
 

 

 

Now some serious work needs to be done to build up the poop cabin.  Again I used maple for the roof decking and redwood some basswood for the structure.  Railing to include stanchions and rail.  I built the access companion way of stirene.

Foremast fife rail was added next and the mid decks hatch.  I build and added the forward hatch as well...the boat on the skids is temporary so I can get scale and location measurements done.

And my carved figure.

There you go, Sjors, you didn't have to wait too long
 
Of course, super close up does nobody any favours....
 
Anyway, the open heart for the forestay collar was made by cutting down an oversized heart. I'll use a smaller one for the preventer stay collar, but overall I like the appearance. The bobstay also looks much better now that it's served all over. Of course I can't much help having another gratuitous figrehead shot.... just to bug Augie
 
 
That could be a new meme around here.... the gratuitous figurehead photo.... hmm....
 
 
A small pause for the weekend, a few more chores to take care of up north. Back monday-ish.
 
Andy

this drawing was actually taped to the bulkhead next to the wheel and tiller to show the person restoring it how it is supposed to look.

You're welcome Augie. There will be more to follow, and I will be posting a separate set of pictures of my journey in the Museums and other ships section of the forum soon. Too time consuming right now, but that way other people can view them than just the ones following my log. Just time for a couple of more, then I have to hook up and head to Gettysburg, Pa. today. these were in the Collections and Research building, which is a fascinating place all by itself.

The deck is very light I think. I'm going to make it a little darker, What do you think of the test piece?

Except if your me. LOL LOL

Before I begin fairing the hull, I like to have a few bent planks available to check the flow of the planks.  To do this, I make up a quick bending jig (Chuck depicts this in the practicum).
 
I first trace an outline of the hull curvature from the plans.  I also prepare about a dozen screws:
 

 
The screws are wrapped in heat shrink electrical insulation.  As they will be holding wet planks to dry, if you don't do this the planks may discolor.
 
I then slightly exaggerate the traced curve (to allow for 'spring back') and transfer it to an old cutting board.  Holes are drilled and the screws firmly fixed in place.  Here's a soaked plank drying in the jig:
 

 
After a few hours, the desired curve has been 'set' in the wood.  This photo shows a second wet plank now drying while the first sits outside the jig now permanently curved:
 

 
The jig will hold up to 4 planks set vertically on edge all at the same time.  This is more then enough once planking begins.  It's easy, cheap and ......... it works!
 
I'll review this when actual planking begins.......in 2014    
 
 

You do good work, Andy - those shrouds look very crisp!!

Alright, photos as promised!
 
Finished the last pair of shrouds this morning. Next step is to look at the outer bobstay collar and both forestay collars.

I just read the news that today in Mystic, Ct is the beginning of the Connecticut Schooner Festival, and a lot of the tall ships will be here for the weekend.  Looks like I just made it to the Morgan before the crowds showed up. 

Hi Lawrence, my Admiral and i were discussing the same thing as we looked at her.  Imagine life must have been really tough those days and times.  Glad you are enjoying the pictures along with others.  We are enjoying our tour.  Tomorrow we're off to Gettysburg, Pa. and then to Virgina Beach.  I haven't been to Norfolk since I got out of the Navy in 1972.

and you say that I build fast.....you're catching up quickly .... looks good Augie..I toured the Morgan today, and had a ball.  I'll be posting pictures soon as I get some time.  It is really cool to walk on board something you're building a miniature of.....kind of a wierd feeling....told them I was building a scale model of her, and got a lot of "Royal" treatment.  Got to go in their Research and Collections building, see the models, and meet some intersting people including the Head Project Manager.  Even a couple of things that unfortunately I am sworn to secrecy about, so I can't share with anyone, but it is awesome.  An absolutely incredible day.

Well there has been some progress on the Blandford, but I have no photos to show for it yet, unfortunately. I've not been documenting the last stages of the build as closely as I have in the past, mostly since I have much less time for modelling with the start of another academic year. So while I'm at the bench, I prefer to work rather than take photos. There will be some in the near future, I promise....
 
I've spent the last 3 days puzzling through the fore mast. Lots of trial and error following all the questions about calculations of length. The final lengths of the lower masts I posted above. I cut the dowels to length (actually about 10mm longer in each case) and dry fit them on deck, checking the look and trimming until i got something that looked right.
 
The fore mast has been a kind of experiment. Shaping it and squaring the head was not a problem, but what to do with the head was another matter. I added some 1/16 pinstripe tape as iron bands, which I thought added a nice subtle detail. I then thought to add the vertical battens, which I made out of 1/32 x 1/32 lime. I installed these (2 on each side as illustrated in Goodwin), and then sanded them down even thinner to try and approximate the very small scale. I thought they looked pretty good, but once they were done it was clear that they threw off the dimensions of the other elements (specifically the top and the topmast/cap) so I did away with them and had to strip the head and re-do it. 
 
I did add rope woldings (5) and scratch built the bibs and cheeks since the laser cut ones provided were nowhere near the mark. Making the top was really a lot of fun, and I think it'll look great once it's finally installed and adorned with railing and topmast shroud deadeyes....
 
Anyway, as I say, there isn't a huge amount of time for modelling in my world, as there is during the summer, so I won't be posting here quite as frequently as before. I'll try to keep my updates with photos, since all this reading is dull work if there are no photos to draw the eye....
 
Hope you're all enjoying yourselves....
hamilton

Thank you all for the well wishes. Recovery is slow but constant. Feels really weird having my right eat and jaw line numb like I just came from the dentist. Docs say most of the feeling will return in the next 6 months to a year. Being a paraplegic with no feeling from the waist down I really don't need any other dead spots on this old bod of mine!  
 
I did get a small amount of work done. Rudder is mounted so no more "drifting in circles with the tide". Plenty of mistakes but that is what happens when a novice shipwright is commissioned to build a ship!

Deck planking coming soon!
Eddie

Augie want some pictures, so here they are...
Ratlines mizzen mast starboard side are done.
This afternoon I can go to the other side….
 

We have enough species of small furry animals as it is... I don't think we really need any more
 
Anyway, more to the point, I've been busy today with shrouds and whatnot. One more pair and I'll have the foremast done. To bring some variety to the task, I swung down to the bowsprit and made up the collar for the shrouds. The book says this could have been done as two pieces or as one, I chose the latter, despite being slightly more complex, it still meant a little less work. I'll have some
Photos later tomorrow morning (EDT, Sjors) for everyone.
 
Andy

Hi Rusty,
 
Welcome on board