dafi

Doing the countdown :-)
 
Daniel

Hey Lawrence..  Thanks for the look see.  I'm planning to "decorate" the stern tomorrow.  I have to paint the big stern trophy of arms but after painting the "Victory" sign I think I'll be able to handle it.  Here's the stern fascia mounted.  Have a great evening,
jerry
 
P.S.  I'm looking for a part that disappeared...I found it  LOL

Thanks guys.
 
Another 30 more days or so and I should be ready to pick up where I left off... and dive into another, slightly different, project.
 
Andy

Thanks Mike and Ian for your advises..
I almost placed an order of timbers which cost around £30, and then I read your replies...  really appreciate the quick respond.
 
My problem was that I've forced the strips to bend too much and cause it impossible to put the next strip on in whole piece. Well, I don't know why I didn't come up with this simple solution which is to cut the rest into shorter length.. It seems very workable now, but need more patient than doing 'normal' planking. A lot of tapering works needed.. will start working over when I have a good mood.
 
Mike,
Thanks for reminding me on the beakhead area It really helps covering a lot, and the wales too! 
for the area below the waterline, I think a thick white painting is unavoidable now. It has to be so thick that the strip borders couldn't be seen. I remember Dubz did the same for his Syren on the wale area  (well, of course he didn't do that to cover his superb planking job ):
 

I really like how he finished his painting, just brilliant!
 
I've also just noticed that most of the Victory models have the upper stem painted to black, which is quite a good idea to cover the plywood structure. I'm not quite sure whether my color theme fits the black upper stem, but I think it's good to find a way to cover it, either painting or wood strip
 
 
Ian,
Thanks for the idea on the sawdust! I'll try work it out this few days. Anyway, I'll need to fix the planking first
and 'switching tasks' sounds good too! so I won't easily get bored doing same work for a long time
I might now consider switching my annoying job too! haha
 

I have been Mount Captain or a crew member of crew served guns from 40 mm Bofers up to  8"55 bagged powder type guns, that experience and logic influences my belief that jumping guns was not normal, hot or cold..
  You do not go to all the trouble to place a gun crew and it's gun in harms way to have their gun maim or kill the crew while firing of the gun, as it was designed. The people who maned those ships were the same species as us, same brain and the same ability to adapt and use what they had available to them in a productive way, they weren't stupid enough to, by design of the gun or to allow the loading of a propellent charge that would cause their guns to jump out of control, hot or cold.
  War ships of those days only existed to transport the guns and their crews to the firing line, when they did get there, hopefully well trained, those in charge did not want any surprises, such as having their guns change their characteristics because of heat. The rate of fire of those guns could not have gotten hot enough to change the powders characteristics, if the gun got that hot, there would be danger of the propellent cooking off before the shot was rammed home.
  I don't believe the guns jumped under their normal designed use. There are ways that could cause a gun to jump, but by doing those things, you were stepping outside the norm.
jud

Among all of my pastimes firing black powder cannons is one of my favorites. I own four black powder pieces including a 1/7 scale dalghren,
a 1/4 scale naval 18 pounder and a 1/6scale cohorn mortar. I have also particapated as a gun crew member on a full scale Civil War piece and a 6 pound carronade. The field piece fired a full charge with projectile while the caronnade fired a 1/4 blank charge.
 
Regardless of size, all of the guns have begun to jump as they warmed up. I do not have a scientific explanation for this but I have learned to be extra alert after 3 or 4 shots. As an aside, I have never had a premature firing as any good gunner should know, a full cleaning and loading routine is performed.
 
My 2 cents
 
Bob Friedman

Xuron tools are top quality, probably some of the best. The price is higher for a reason.
 
Andy

In the DIY-stores in the electrical or tools department they have the same ones as Andy showed for cheaper and possibly better quality. Here from wikipedia:
 
For electronics work, special diagonal cutters that are ground flush to the apex of the cutting edge on one side of the jaws are often used. These flush-cutting pliers allow wires to be trimmed flush or nearly flush to a solder joint, avoiding the sharp tip left by symmetrical diagonal cutters. It is common for this type of diagonal cutter to be referred to by another name, such as "flush cutter" to distinguish it from symmetrical cutters.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers
 
I usually go to the shop with a piece of paper and try them out - good ones should even cut paper! This means not suitable for harder wires bit wonderful for sprue and etch :-)
 
PS: I use them too for cutting off the end bits of the ropes while rigging, better than any scissors :-)
 
Daniel
 
Here a picture from Wikipedia:

im learning that green stuff is the new version of sawdust, the joints are very good, and have only seen one bit of flash so far, but the spruce joints to the moulded pieces are a bit over thick at times, 

I just cemented on the starboard main deck railing......I probably won't get to the pictures I wanted to finish this phase of the build.   so,  here is what I have so far........but I'm very close
 
as I mentioned earlier,  the odd post at the end of the fore deck was cut flush to the deck,  so a full post can be installed.
 

 
the main deck pin racks are trimmed and fitted the same as the stern racks.
 

 
the port side railings are installed.
 

 

 
then the pin racks are installed.
 

 

 
here are just some overview shots of how she looks now.
 

 

 

 
just before I hit the hay,  I made up the posts for the starboard side......stained and cemented in place.
 

 
so, here I am......the railing freshly cemented in place,  and right now,  it's too cramped to mark and cut the slots in the pin rack........I'll post them when everything is in place. 
 
I hope I appeased the  'Sjors'  bug,  Mobbsie.   I still can't believe how well this came out.   that pile of cut up parts panel,  is now dwindled to a small heap....I used a good portion of it.   wood not wasted,  but all put to good use  

Warning! I will be monitoring those split lines front and aft of the funnel!
 
Be careful!
 
;-)
 
Love the parts, Daniel

Good evening everyone
 
the funnel area progress, finding i am spending more time worrying about the weathering than the build it's self so have told my self no more painting until i am much further ahead, i am constantly checking build logs to avoid doing to much that i may rip out , the fitting kit that i dont have at present, replaces so much of the original (or should i say enhances a lot of the original)
there are 3 hangers on the build one of them is a double am hoping to be able to do some work so you can possibly see some of the internals 
 

As I mentioned in a previous post. it's amazing that Caldercraft doesn't include in the plan sheets a drawing showing the exact placement of the yellow/black bands, you just get four very poor quality and disjointed photographs in the manual. And those potos were taken of the completed model with much of the detail of the paintwork obscured by head rails, gun port lids, chains, etc.  I spent a lot of time poring over photos of the actual ship as well of many of the other fine Victory builds in here to make my best shot at replicating the "Nelson chequer".  Again, much of the detail on pictures of the actual ship are obscured, especially at the bows, so being able to look at other Victory builders' work in progress before the addition of head rails, etc. was invaluable.  Even then, everybody has their own slight differences on the exact location of the yellow/black bands.
 
One thing that helped me is realizing that the ship is actually black with yellow bands, not yellow with black bands.  Of course we all start off with a yellow hull because it's easier to paint the black on over the yellow, but once I focused on the location of the yellow bands, it became a bit easier for me. I used Admiralty Paints Matt (Metal) Black (AP9106W) rather than the recommended Dull Black (AP9105W) because I don't like the sheen on the Dull Black, and it's my ship!
 
So, here is my version of the Nelson chequer.  I'm happy with the result and even happier that she's now starting to look like Victory, rather than a mess of wood, glue and filler!
 
Next up, lining the gun ports.
 
Patrick

Hi Guys,
 
George, Space always seems a problem, we in the UK suffer the smallest houses in Europe unless you want to pay countless thousands for a larger property, my place is a 3 bedroom end terrace and is one of the larger builds in our street, built in 1950 it is solid but still not enough room for all that I would like to build, so deciding on what to build becomes quite important, I was thinking of Dianna but will probably have second thoughts on that due to her size, I will most likely go small until Caldercrafts Surprise is ready, I still want her.
 
Peter,  Thank you for your very kind words. The small boats aren't that difficult but there is a lot of work involved with them, they do suffer some damage to the bulkheads mainly because your used to working on the main hull which is a brute of a lump. I'm pleased that mine are all done.
 
At last the little boats are completed, there was a lot more work in them than I expected but I think they came out OK.
 
The oar shafts are a little thick but the length is right, I got the formular from Milton Roth's "Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern".
 
I do have a few pics which I will post.
 
The 26ft Launch

 

 
The 24ft Cutter

 

 
The 18ft Cutter

 

 
Finally all four boats together as they will be positioned on the ship

 
So there we are, right up to date with where I am, next step is making the masts, the size of walking sticks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
Mort, Grant & Jeff, Thank you so much for your very kind words, coming from you guys it's a real compliment.
 
As requested some pics of the boats sitting in position on the boat beams, they are not fixed yet because I need to get to some cavel cleats on the gun deck.
 
The boats are in their correct position and order so all that's needed to fix them is a spot of glue on the cradles.
 

 

 

 
I have now moved the Aggy out of the workroom because I am going to be making sawdust, I don't want to have to be cleaning her up because she's covered in the stuff. I could just cover her but when wielding long sticks about some damage may occur.
 
The length of the Lower Main Mast is 465mm, the overall height of the Main Mast is going to be 974mm off the ship.
 
That's it for now gents, thank you again for your kind comments.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

A test fit of the new hair bracket with some blu-tak holding it in.

 
The rest of the head rails are fairly plain with visible ply so they get a strip of walnut grooved strip laminated on. This should tie them in with the sheer rails done a while back.
 

 
The weather very unsettled spring storm so no action on the outdoor pizza oven project so more ship work instead and pics to follow.

A bit more work on the head rails. The hair bracket is provided as a flat photo etched part.
A new one was knocked up out of leftover walnut from the kit with the groove cut down the middle with a file.
 

 

 
The kit hair bracket is supposed to be stuck to an extension the kit adds to the bow. It's not accurate but makes for a sturdy build.
 

 
After a bit of thought this was cut off with my new jewellers saw which is proving so useful.
 

Actually, 'weathering' or whatever one may call this is quite simple. A basecoat of some creamy-yellowish colour (depending on how dark the 'wood' should be) applied by airbrush:
 

 
Over this apply washes of diluted acrylics 'burnt umbra':
 

 
This was the 'wood' part. To give the 'wood' a 'weathered' or worn look, white (for bleached areas and areas with salt stains) and black (general grime) pastels are applied with a bristle brush or a cotton stick ('Q-tip').
 
If you want to show areas where 'patina' has been worn off, e.g. at edges of heavily used parts, you may want to apply the dry brushing technique mentioned above. I use it with restraint, as it may make the look rather manieristic and exaggerated (which seems to be a certain style among plastic modellers).
 
wefalck

Hello. I just posted some photos of my Santa Maria in other thread. Is something like this what you are looking for?
This is Heller's 1/75 SM kit.

And another...I wanted to hand paint the name board......so it was not a decal.

Being new to these pages i thought if fitting to begin my own build log of the medium clipper I'm building of the Glory of the Seas...Donald McKay's last clipper.
 
I chose this fine vessel because she was not only Donald McKay's last but she spent much of her later years in the Tacoma/Seattle area....where I live and she ended her days just miles from here south of Seattle as a burnt out hulk.
 
I drew much of her documented history from many sources, namely from Richard McKay's book, *Donald McKay and his Famous sailing ships*, local historian, Jay Mjelde, author of several books, *Clipper ship Captains, Daniel McLaughlin and the Glory of the Seas* , and  *Glory of the Seas*, by same.
 
Note to the reader:  I also utilized other resources, such as Crothers fine book, *The American build Clipper Ship*, and a nearly un-numberable library of resources.
 
Unlike many here...I work in multi mediums to achieve my goals...and am not ashamed to admit...I will re-engineer anything and everything to achieve these goals.
 
First it must be known...I am a lazy model builder....wanting expeditious results......means I forgo much in the way of frame construction(I figure I'm covering it up and painting it...why bother).  I do. however....scratch build everything above the weather deck and masts/yards and rigging.
 
I currently use the 1/96 scale hull from the Revell Cutty Sark kit as the beginning of my build...knowing full well much is needed to correct design issues......however..once cutwater rake issues are corrected for said model and stern corrections are also made....I then proceed to  tackle the deck and its houses and furniture.
 
Much of this *Modification* will be eliminated for times sake.
 
Here is an image of the hull after it has been correctly modified.

Nearly everything had to be removed or relocated on the CS hull to accommodate the new location on the Glory hull. Howes holes needed relocating...cheek plates and figurhead.
 
I used maple veneer for the decks and oak , mahogany  and redwood for structures.

Hello Patrick and canoe
Sadly once again it's gone wrong. I finished the ratlines completely with the mizzen being last. But when I fed the two threads from the futtock staves up to the area were they terminate ( at the top were there are two single blocks) I can't remember what they call it, the shroud and ratlines twisted around. I had criss crossed one of the shrouds, and was always wary about that happening, but there you go. I tried to bodge it but it got worse, so I have chopped them off. I am leaving it for now and having a look at the bowsprit as per manual. I will go back to the shroud next week sometime. So be very wary when fitting the shrouds. Another good idea is to buy a few spare small dead eyes with any order you place, they are a bit awkward and I have a few floating about in the carpet. I have also lost one of the little chaps who are standing next to the shied but have a spare. A photo of my chopped off ratlines, and starting on the bowsprit. Thanks everybody for your replies. David

Well here it is, the start of a new week so I figure I'd better make some progress as the days are getting shorter and I don't nowif the wife has kept up with the electric bill; it's difficult work in with candle light.  I know that I have had a tendancy to "knock" the kit manufacturer because of my sometimes frustration but today I must say, it's time to pay them a compliment.  I really thought that the design of the flag locker is something special.  So many pieces were necessary to put this puzzle together and it they fit like a charm.  It amazes me how 1.5 mm components can be scored half their thickness and still come out of the strip of wood so in tact.  Thank goodness for laser technology.  Any way here are some more photos to bring you up to date as I next prepare to construct the skylight.
 
Have a nice week everyone
Regards,
jerry

Hello everone:
 
We're about to enter the weekend and I'm about to begin what I consider a very exciting step in the construction of my Victory, the stern fascia.  It took a pretty good amount of time to prepare the buckets with rope handles and mount them to the the Poop Barricade Assembly.  21 buckets, handled and painted individually was another example of all the repetitive operations necessary to construct this amazing model.  Happy to say it's finished and I'm ready to prod ahead witht he stern fascia.  Here are some additional photos of my progress:
 
Best regards,
Jerry