dafi

Thanks for your kind comments guys, I do feel that my build is just playing compared to the masterpieces being shown on this forum, but at least I can build mine on the kitchen table!
 
Sonicmcdude, the ship will eventually reside inside this glass cloche that the admiral has acquired

 
I have started on the standing rigging using a bead thread which is not too "hairy"

 
I am using fine brass tubes for the upper masts and yards which although cannot be tapered seem to have the right feel in terms of visual weight and complement the woods used. I am not quite sure about the representation of the shroud chains, I may revisit this later. I also need to think about whether I should try to indicate the deadeyes and lanyards.
 

 
My son is studying medicine and gave me a set of his disposable surgical instruments which are great for this work! Clamps are very useful to act as weights to ensure even tension on all the shrouds
 

 

 

 

 

 
A picture of the rigging underway after launching!

Dan,
 
Another tip for your ratlines. In order to maintain fairly even tension and avoid creating an hour glass shape in your shrouds, tie every fourth ratline first, then go back and do each one half between the first lot, then finish the remainder. I found that using a highlighter pen to colour code the template worked a treat (not shown in the photo on my log - I only worked it out a bit later).

I would hope that Herr Meischel would have been honored to meet you.  You both do fantastic work.

Most important messages fast set ...  
 

 

... there she sails, the proud frigate, only the storm jib set, driven by the devastating energy of the elements, riding the crests, her flag beaming with pride, being pushed by her crew to the limit, always facing abyss and downfall!
 

 
The crew is fighting the elements, the earth is splashing high, each hand movement is set with precision. With concision our master guides this pride of the austrian mountain marine towards new shores ... 
 

 


  

... my Heart will go ooooo-o-ho-o-n ...


 
 
 
 

... and the crew becomes one.

  
 

 
But what is this? The pilot missed the ship? Still stands on the far off 
shore? This in these extremely difficult waterways? Hastily the crew puts up the blue and yellow flag ...
 

 
  

... but he? He stays calm ...

  
 

 


... he knows that he is best equipped ...

 
 

 
 

... and so he keeps sailing towards Victory :-)
  



 

 
Epilogue:
Sometimes later, I was taken out of that wonderful dream, being sent downhill again. But this moment, I took it with me ☺
 
Liebe Grüße, Daniel
 
The complete story to be found in german:
http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t532f317-SMS-Trinkstein-in-schweren-Wellenbergen.html

Here's the pics to date:
 

Augie:   "Stalwart of professional building"????    Huh... who...?  me...?  
 
Andy:  Just look for Sjors.  He always has the popcorn cart. And usually a front row seat.
 
 
Just to make the point that I'm not a total slacker (Hi Ben, I took your post to heart)..... here's an update.
 
First picture is where I am at present.  The lads in the sawpits have been busy cutting the deck planking.  I've been busy fitting and caulking.      About 6 more strakes and then the sander comes out.
 

 
Special Tools department:  Here's the clamps I made for working with the decking and hull planking.
 
 
 
 

RUNNING RIGGING  Continued.   New posts
 
Foremast yard with yard sling.  Yard pinned to mast for stability with brass wire drilled into mast and yard, + C/A glue
 
Yard sling plus jeer blocks.  Timber hitch on yard leads to upper jeer block, and from blocks leads down to deck. Yard jeer blocks lashed to yard through eyes in tail of double strops.
 
Truss pendants. Each passes around back of mast, through bullseye lashed to yard on the opposite side and down to deck.
 
Rigging truss pendants to block and tackle
 
Main mast truss pendants terminate at block and tackle to deck eyebolt and finish at cleat at base of mast.  Jeer blocks line terminates through sheeve in the main top bowline bitts just aft of the main mast.  Yard topping lift terminate through sheeves in the kevel at bulworks (below forward shroud).
 
Topping lift.
 
Foremast yard topping lift
 
Foremast yard
 
Jeer blocks line terminates at fore top bowline bitts (aft of fore mast), truss pendants to tackle forward of mast and tooping lift to kevels at bulworks

18.     RUNNING RIGGING
 
Finally the running rigging.  This will bring the build log up to date, with a few new photos at the end.  There are still a number of small details  to add on the ship such as boomkins (deferred in order not to knock them off), lanterns, etc. and much more running rigging so I'll probably be busy for another year.  Work on our real boat begins in March to prepare it for summer cruising, so priorities will change. Grant (gdale) will pass me by and I'll get to study his rigging before making mistakes.  It's a relief to have the build log back in place and to see others taking shape. MSW is alive and well, and our sincere thanks to all the moderators who have suffered through the trials. Our inconvenience is but a fraction of their increased work load, dedication and frustration. Thanks you!!!
 
On with the rigging.  On the right, the initial square jeer block.  Center: sanded and stained with "English Oak"
 
Lower and upper jeer blocks.  Indentations for double stropping.  These massive blocks were 26" long on the real ship.
 
Experimenting with yard lift and battens (styrene) at central yerd
 
Battens and iron bands
 
Double stropped jeer blocks (served)
 
Warps of rope to support jeer blocks
 
Lower: Main yard with battens, iron bands and yard cleats.  Next up: studing sail (stuns'l)) booms. Middle: Foremast yard, tapered by sanding with power drill lathe (ends to be cut off).  Supplied stuns'l rings too large.  Replaced by cut section of styrene tubing (5.5mm diameter)
 
Rigging for yard lift, jeer blocks (double stropped), all served
 
Supplied stuns'l boom rings and replacement
 
Central yard, plus iron bands and yard cleats
 
Yard cleats.  "bolts" are .035" rivets.
 
Fittings at end of yard
 

 
Main yard
 
Stuns'l boom rings.  Stirrups for foot rope (horse) from 24g dark annealed wire with thread lashing around yard.
 
Siezing around wire to simulate eye splice supporting foot rope
 
Styrene and square brass rod for stuns'l boom support
 
Yard rigged with yard sling,jeer blocks, yard lift blocks, horse and stirrups and Flemish horses at ends.
 
Jeer blocks with lashing through eye splices from stropping
 
Stuns'l booms added
 
Brass wire to pin yard to mast (to stabilize yard for rigging)
 
At last, the build log is up to date.  The next few pictures are work done just before the crash and not yet posted.  Cheers, Gil

On with reloading the build site.
 
RIGGING THE FORESTAYS AND PREVENTERS
 
Experimenting with a mouse and eye for the forestay.  Forming the eye with served line.
 
Forming the mouse with extra winding.
 
Mouse and eye
 
Bow sprit collar (served)
 
Attaching bow sprit collar with lashing between eyes
 
The forestay and mainstay are served at the mast to just beyond the mouse, and wormed from there on.  Serving the forestay.
 
Backwinding to begin the mouse
 
Winding to build the mouse. A little C/A helps build the trailing end and serving continues just beyond the mouse.
 
Serving ended by passing thread through the stay.  I did not glue and cut this worming line until the three worming lines were passed. It is nearly impossible to pass a needle through C/A treated line.
 
Three strands passed through the stay to begin worming.
 
Worming the forestay
 
Served on right, Wormed on left.  Mouse to be added.
 
Forestay and preventer at fore top
 
Mouse and eye (served).  Starting lacing line between stay and preventer.
 
Forestay and preventer
 
Attached at bowsprit to served collars with lashings.
 
Main stay and preventer at main top
 
Attached to collars around the bow sprit
 
Main top mast shroud and preventer
 
At fore top
 
To lashing at deck eye
 
Mizzen top mast stay
 
Mizzen stay and top mast stay
 
Mizzen stay
 
Main top mast stay and preventer
 
Main sliding backstay
 
Main breast backstay
 
Foremast sliding backstay
 
Foremast breast backstay
 
All stays and backstays were left adjustable until final tensioning and alignment
 
PHOTO  BACKDROP
 
About a year ago, Mike Graff gave our Puget Sound Ship Modellers (PSSM) group a superb well thought out presentation on improving our model photography.  The need was obvious.  Here, the Venetion blinds obscure the rigging details.
 
I tried poster board which was totally inaddaquate.
 
Finally, I obtained a "baby blue" pull down shade which should improve my posts from here on.
 
Next up, Rat lines

Continuing...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
She will now take her place in the Dining Room to compliment the Naval cutter model that I bashed quite some time ago.
 

They are a good match I think, and more importantly have the full approval of Mrs W
 
Specific reference works I have used during this build I list here.
 
The Naval Cutter Alert -  Peter Goodwin  (Conway AotS series)
 
The Global schooner - KH Mardquardt
 
The Colonial Schooner - H. Hahn.
 
Rigging Fore and Aft Craft - Lennarth Petersson
 
News of Nelson John Lapenotiere's race from Trafalgar to London  - Derek Allen and Peter Hore
 
My thanks to all who have  made such supportive comments on this log which I hope will provide a useful reference to those contemplating the build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Completion Photos
 
This post concludes my log of a nine month build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More to follow
 
B.E.

A few odds and ends
 
Rudder coat and pendants.
 
I usually make rudder coats out of micro-porus tape as it has a sort of canvas finish to it and has the added advantage of a sticky back.
Rudder coats are a sort of bell shape in plan but cutting a pattern for a particular ship is a matter of trial and error.
 
There should be an element of ‘bag’ in the coat to allow free movement of the rudder
 
This is difficult to achieve without padding out the interior, I use a little cotton wool off a cotton bud for this purpose.
After this it is just a matter of teasing it into shape around the transom and rudder.

The canvas was tarred to waterproof it as much as possible and I have represented this with a black grey finish.

 
The Rudder pendants
 
Evidence is that even smallish vessels like Pickle would have had some system for retaining the rudder after all loss of rudder was no small matter.
I could not find any detailed information exactly how the pendants and chains would have been fitted on Pickle; similar smallish vessels are shown with the pendants taken up over the transom and secured to cleats on the inside. This method would foul the stern gunports in the case of Pickle.

I fitted chains to eyebolts secured in the rudder and to eyebolts in the lower transom, and contented myself with this arrangement for the present.
 
Anchor buoys
 
These too are an essential part of a ships equipment, they need to be clearly seen on the water, and the standard size is 54”x 30” with something in excess of 100’ of line.(475mm)
 
Smaller vessels such as Pickle would have had a smaller version and I scaled mine down to 36” x 20”
I made an egg shaped core from the cone shaped tips of two cheap bic prop pencils and planked these with styrene strip.
 
With the addition of eyebolts either end and 0.25mm line to form the slings and hoops and the job’s done.

I don’t normally adhere to scale lengths of line but in this case I have measured out 18 fathoms of line (scale of course) to coil on the shrouds.

 

 

Nearly there
 
 

I was asked to repost this. This is an easy way of tying blocks to yards or mast. I have also used this to tie blocks to the underside of tops.
 
I start out with thicker thread. A little trial and error with different threads to get the look I want. Notice I have the thread folded three times and use a clip to hold the thread tight.

 
I use smaller thread to wrap around the thicker thread. I start out with a slip knot tied in the thinner thread, and stick the loop and loose end of the thicker thread through the knot.

 
The thinner thread has two ends. The end that pulls the slip knot tight and the end the pulls the loop through the knot.

 
I pull the loop tight against the thicker thread and use a second clip to hold the thinner thread in place.

 
I start wrapping the thin thread (The end that pulls the knot tight.) around the three layer of thick thread and the loop of the thin thread.

 
I make 7 to 10 or more wraps. Trail and error to get the look.
 
While wrapping and after, you have to hold the wraps to keep them from unwinding. Remove the one clip. Take the end of the thread you've been wrapping and pass it through the loop of the thin thread.

 
Still while holding the wraps to keep them from unwinding, pull on the other end of the thin thread to pull the loop tight around the end of the thin thread. Pull the thin thread tight but not too tight. If is too tight, it will be hard to pull the thicker thread through. Also, as you pull on the end of the thinner thread it will pull the loop and the other end on the thin thread into the wrap.

 
You now have a loop and a loose end of thicker thread sticking out each end of the thinner thread. Pulling the loose end on one side pulls the loop in on the other side. Put a block in one loop and pull the loop tight.

 
Slip the other end over a yard or mast. You can also start out with the loop already around something.

 
Pull that loop tight.

 
Add a drop or two of CA glue, and when it is dry snip of the loose ends. This picture shows two block tie to a yard.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I am not very good at drawing but  . . .
 

 
The last four pictures shows different places I have used this method.
 
Around a yard.

 
Under a top. These blocks were added by passing the thicker thread around the cross tree before doing any warping.

 
All of these blocks are attached with this method. I used a variation of this method to attach the stay.

 
And one more

 
I lied.  One more.

 
 

Hello,
thank you for your nice comments.
Here are some more anchor pictures.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The anchors are made of brass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued ...
 
 

Before I start my build log some information about the real La Créole and
the data from which my model will build.
 
The La Créole was a 24-gun corvette of the French Navy. The corvette
carried 4 x 18 pdr guns and 20 x 30 pdr carronades.
Her plans were drawn by P. M. Leroux in 1827. She was launched in Cherbourg in
May 1829. The ship took part in the French invasion of Mexico in 1838, and most
notably in the Bombardment of San Juan de Ulloa before French troops disembarked and captured the city of Veracruz.

There is a fine shipyard model on display at the Musée national de la Marine in Paris which is shown by many photos in the book of Jean Boudriot (in French). 
 
I use the following sources for building my model of the corvette:
Jean Boudriot - Historique de la corvette 1650-1850: La
Créole, 1827
 
 
Now the images of beginning:
 
 
 
To be continued...
 
Best regards
Johann
 
 
 
 
 
 

A simple man’s guide to sail making (part two)
 
The sail has been cut out complete with a hem all the way round, the positions of the cringles have been marked along the edges.
The hems are folded over and a small slit where the cringles are to be placed is made with the scalpel.
0.1mm line is then placed along the hem inside the fold and fished thro with a small pointy thing, to form the cringles.
This is the position so reached.
 

 

After the first few cringles have been formed the hem is glued down using neat PVA to hold the cringles in place.
 
In the pic below all the cringles have now been put into place.
 
Down each side from the top are the three pairs of Reef cringles, followed by three Bowline cringles; the leech line is attached thro’ the top two.
 
At the clue is the cringle for the blocks..
 
Across the foot of the sail are the cringles for the buntlines.

Bands, patches and linings
Additional strengthening pieces of ‘cloth’ are now required to be added to the sail. These are all attached to the aft side of the sail as shown above (Fore side on British ships.)
They comprise:
The reef bands, three narrow strips thro’ which the reef points are fixed.
The Patches small squares of material below the reef cringles at the leech.
The Top lining, the most distinctive addition whose purpose is to protect the sail from wear by friction against the mast top.
The Lining cloths which are strengthening strips staggered down the leech of the sail.
A bit like wallpapering this part, cut it to size, slap on the paste, and stick it down.
 

With the light behind the full effect of the various additions can now be seen.
A series of holes were drilled thro’ the Reef bands to take the Reef points, and again on the Head lining to take the Robands.
Some 150 reef points are required on the Topsail.
 
Once the sails are in place they can be manipulated at any later stage by the simple expediency of wetting them down.
 

The Mizen sail, the Brails that control the sail furling are all in place, there are matching lines on each side of the sail.
 
 

a simple wet down of the sail and haul on the Brails and the sail is loosely furled.
 

 
Modelspan is a tough material and in my workings with I had no failures.
 
 

 

I would use modelspan for kitting out models certainly up to 1:96 scale.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

As five hands sometimes are not enough for rigging, I build myself a small rigging bench.
 

 
An inclined plane with a pin in the middle ...
 
 
 
... and two hairgrips on a holder. The holder can be fixed also pointing the other direction - or being left off - ...
 

 
... and even tiny bits can be worked on with ease :-)
 
For serving small parts I included a hook on a thread. Turning the part in between the fingers, it is still nicely held under tension and does not wobble around  :-)
 

 
These are the nice bits one can do with it ...
 

 
... and even to be repeated precisely :-)
 

 
Gruß, DAniel

These are the words, that Maurice used when he got his little serving machine.
 
So here comes my interpretation of it.
 

 
Famous for my lifetime-supply of old Fischer-Technics (luckily my son never was interested in), it can be either turned by hand ...
 

 
... or the motor can be switched down. As it is works by friction and not by the gearwheel, the drive can be stopped easily while working just by holding the axis if any correction is needed
 

 
I did not use hooks but tubes, a wire is used to get the lines through ...
 

 
... and the other side is hold by a toothpic squeezed into the tube. Like this I can shift the serving area to the left or right if longer distances are needed.
 

 
First tests on the trials of the mainstay show a nice result, still showing the structure underneath.
 

 
But it not just works for the big ones, here are the tests for the thinner ropes, this one 0,5 mm thick.
 

 
Here some serving tests. Right the 3/0 fly fishing yarn with the charm of dental floss - very uncool. On the left my usual 8/0 yarn, much better :-) After serving a touch of CA on the ends, still some diluted white glue along the sausage. And juch-huui!
 
Still tried the 6/0 one, the black one on the right, that is a tad thicker and goes therefore faster in serving, that it will be.
 

 
Also tried the direction of serving. Going with the cuntlines - here serving rightwards - results in the serving line getting stuck in the groove and running of, like seen on the right side of the orange one. So always against the cuntlines, that it means :-)
 
And the result? The modelling ropes have the bad habit to flatten if taken around sharp turns. Totally uncool. Not with Dr. dafis non-patented serving machine! Here a rope of 0,5 mm wraps itself gently around a 0,5 mm drill and nicely keeps its form.
 

 
And smaller parts? No prob, if well planned, some of these can be ...
 

 
... nicely placed on the same line like Münchhausens duck hunting :-)
 

 
So have a nice day until it will be shouted again: "Mom, he did it again!!!"
 
Sincereily, dafi
 
PS: This kind of machines can be found in many variations on the net, either to buy or DIY. But this was a great opportunity to proove dear darling wife that it was a wise decision to keep all these items in the cellar, and not to sell, swoop, give as present - or even through away - already many years ago ... XXXDAN

After that much research I needed something easy to relax ...
 
On the left Hellers version of the rudderwheel, right dafis version, just enjoy, no further explanations :-)
 

 

 

 

      

 

 

 

 
Gute Nacht, Daniel

Act 3
Happy End
 
And here they are, our happy actors ...
 

 
... from the inside ... 
 

 
... and with a mockup crane.
 

 
Huuuuooorrrrrraaaaaaayyyyyy!

Colored the shaft and the arms for the chamfers ...     ... drilled the hole for the ring and most was done.     Used my small template to cut the palms ...     ...glued in place, cut ...     ... cleaned up and done :-)
    And here the family shot with all the needed tools that were needed for conception.   All the best, Daniel

As five hands sometimes are not enough for rigging, I build myself a small rigging bench.
 

 
An inclined plane with a pin in the middle ...
 
 
 
... and two hairgrips on a holder. The holder can be fixed also pointing the other direction - or being left off - ...
 

 
... and even tiny bits can be worked on with ease :-)
 
For serving small parts I included a hook on a thread. Turning the part in between the fingers, it is still nicely held under tension and does not wobble around  :-)
 

 
These are the nice bits one can do with it ...
 

 
... and even to be repeated precisely :-)
 

 
Gruß, DAniel

Halleluja, praise the heavens!
 
Why? Because also small things can make me happy :-)
 
Looking back: A year ago I was already working on the improved gunport lids but had a grandious failure on the gunport tackles:
Looks like a ball of hair straight out of the shower plughole :-(
 

 
These days I broused through Gil Middletons wonderful Jotika-Victory and dicovered the splicing that he presents there:
(Edit: Later I discoverd this in use by many others too!)
 
We proudly present: The Powersplice
 

 
It is simple but effective:
 
Thread - here 0,3 mm - through the ring, neadle through the thread, it is more easy than it looks ...
 

 
... make tight, secure with a drop of glue ...
 

 
... and once more through it with feeling ...
 

 
... pull thight and ...
 

 
here we are!
 

 
Great, isn´t it???
 
All the best from a happy Daniel to all of those who showed it before!