Izzy Madd
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Hi, Thanks for all the info, as personal recommendation is unbeatable. One more question I notice Vallejos do possibly as many primers as paints. Does anyone here use them or avoid them for whatever reason? Or are they for specialist materials? -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
Nice to see a very graphic description there. I was considering adding "something to the centre of the lower half. For as you say weight and strength. I was wondering if anyone had tried acetal. For the upper parts. I was intending to use it mainly for the deadeyes as its black already and no grain to cause flexing when drilling. And with a very fine texture I think it should work due to its high stability even when heated by friction of turning. -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
Hi, As I've been told on here already and from the dark and distant past rememberings the masts supplied with these kits by the very fact that it's made of the wrong material. Has a tendency to bend, snap, warp, sag and many other unwanted features. Now I was rummaging around in my BIG box, a small room really, of bit and pieces that I've kept over the years. Because they could be useful one day, as we all do, don't we? When I came across some acetal round billet 6mm diameter. Now it may not be big enough for the bottom section. I've not checked yet. But I was wondering if anyone has tried using this stuff for masts? As it's designed for the engineering world. And is very stable whilst being able to flex enough that it doesn't snap. It also has a very low creep factor. So shouldn't tend to sag. And best of all it can be turned on a lathe very easily. So any thoughts please -
Hi, Can anyone recommend a reasonably price source or make of paints for plastic models. I'd rather use water based, low odour if possible. But at the moment all I try seems to be like water and hardly even colours the surface. It's great for weathering. But I need something for the main colours that's opaque and comes in a decent size and range of colours. Any suggestion please oh I'm in the UK so local is best or free P&P as it ends up I'm paying more for post than the paint. Thanks Izzy
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H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
I really thought as it is so far from the ship we see today it was wrong. It's a wonder no one scuttled her looking like that as she is not a pretty sight at all. How on earth did she get like that? And who would want to save that. If it wasn't for her history? -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
Just don't turn those little knobs to tight ;-). And make sure the coffe is cool enough. I find a good splash of whiskey helps ensure that. Hic... -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
I know those days but the only lathe I go near would have to be one of those kiddy ones. And the metal lathe otherwise I'd be sending chisel flying all over the place. And finger to follow :-) Sadly I shake all the time it's not so bad if they move in unison it's when they decide to do what ever they like. I once ended in AnE after taking a chunk out of the hand holding a brach with a pair of hedge clippers. And before I started the cut. Bearing in mind the clipper blades are only 50mm long. My hand were 600mm apart. But just as I closed the clippers both arms decided to meet. Result me with a lovely v shaped scar in my left hand. And a few choice words at the time. And to make matters worse the harder I consentrait the worse the shaking. Perhaps if I just stick to the advice of my old woodwork teacher. "If at first it doesn't fit. Get a bigger hammer." Said whilst yealding an 8 pound sledge hammer. If I just nail the pieces to the table with a six inch nail then they won't move ever :-D -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
Hi, Thanks for the suggestion I already have these and a magnifying lighted lense. But on the days when my eyesight fails it's total as I say I couldn't even see the feild if I fell face down in it. Just a big white fog or my own private kaleidoscope. I don't know what's worse seeing all white or seeing everything twenty times over and distorted and anywhay about. Talk about "I'm so dizzy... Izzy" -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
I'm in need of desperate help. I'm making a recreation of the Cutty Sark. After the fire I think. To get my hand in again. But I've come up against a BIG hurdle. As with most when I was young I didn't need glasses and could thread a needle with a pair of chopsticks. But my nemesis has decided it doesn't want me making models any more. Basically on a good day I've got the fine motor skills of Richard Hammond ploughing a field, with his forehead. On a bad day I can't even see the feild... Now bad days are a fete acomplee but there must be other wiser people out there. Who are wiser then me who can advise me how best to cope with the good days. That is when my hands shake in time with each other. So please anyone with a mental age higher than mine, three years I think... How can I stick bits I can barely see together and any other tips for the daft and shaky like me. So long as it's clean and repeatable to the vicar I'll accept any suggestions, so any ideas PLEASE........ -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
I'm aware of that as well but there are too many details not right. Even the top deck line seems too high. It's as though they've taken a picture of just any tall ship and done the 1900 equivalent of photoshopped it, badly... Or should that be Fox-Tolberted. -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Izzy Madd replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
Hi, I've just found this image "claiming" to be HMS Victory 1900. Here's a link to a bigger version http://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Victory_Portsmouth_um_1900.jpg While I'm fully aware of the reputation and unreliability of this site. This images look totally wrong. I realise it's been colourised etc. but even the back end looks wrong some how. And above the gun ports the strips come to a V shape but none of the pictures I've seen have this. Is it just me or is this a total load of hog wash. As an image of Victory. Not by the person that's posted it I don't think but certainly by the people responsible for selling it surely? Any thought?
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Having just got my hands on a copy of "Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" I'm forced to ask a question of the profound knowledge to be found here. Most wooden decking I've seen and I think this may include Dafi's, but not sure. Show treenails in pairs. But Longridge who claims to have gotten hold of "Several accurate blue prints" only places one treenails at each joint and beam. So which is the accepted norm for the Victory? As a wood butcher before now I'm well aware of the logic of using only one nail at each anchor point. But I'm also aware of the dangers involved if the planks aren't quarter sawn. So any pointer most welcome. Thanks Very Dizzy Izzy
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I can understand it being so as its the same reason high wire acts wear very thin shoes, sometimes with toe shapes in them. It was just an observation. From a devote coward when it comes to anything higher than 6". It's interesting how a simple query can uncover so much unknown truth though as with the member who showed pictures from his museum with all the sailor wearing shoes. The idea of going bear foot to prevent gunpowder fires seems odd though. As with all the water being slopped about to keep the barrel clear and cool enough to load. Friction ignition would be the last thing to worry about. And what about the marine on each gun he'd have had boots on surely.
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Only if it was officially there not if it was a thing that was used because the crew wanted to be sure...
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Like I said just because the plans don't have them doesn't stop a canny old sea dog using them. Especially when it his life on the line...
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The way the ropes are rigged above the bolt they would pull the back end of the barrel down this force would be on to the pin.
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I think this relies on the none existent QC in the manufacturing as well as the very big IF margin. As it is well documented that bosses didn't care if it worked just that they got payed. A prime example was the so called colonial musket rifle. Which was safest if you stood about ten foot in front of when it was fired. As it was most likely to blow the head of the person holding it. And as you very well described data relies on it being heat treated AND a good sound material AND a 32 pounder AND these were 68 pounders. Then I'd still want to be a long way back.
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With the force of the recoil going back and nowhere for it to go energy has to be released. So either the gun explodes or the force goes down through the pin because of the straightening of the ropes. The for May not be so much lateral as compression with only one choice as to what happens next. It bends
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Sorry for getting the wrong size guess but I've seen bars of silver steel 50mm bent like butter but if you look at the plans the issue of friction on the pin was noticed as the pin comes to a rounded point to reduce this. So there must have been some issues regarding the pin bending at some point. I may have asked erroneously but it seems that it's a salient point especially when done to scale. As this emphasises the issue. It may well be one of those things that it's better to look right that be right. As in have an over sized pin that when scaled up would be too big but at scale looks right?
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I've not looked at the image but from personal experiments. misspent youth. The recoil on a gunpouder load only is proportional to the weight of the pouder only. Where as the real load force has the force required to move both the explosive forces and the mass of the ball which would be multiplied by each other. Resulting in the recoil force of over ten tons. Having just watched the first vid the screw is some five time more substantional than that which raised my doubt in the beginning. Dafi's recreation. Which are little more than 1" across when scaled up. So the real question becomes not "did they use wedges?" But "when did they increase the diameter of the support bolt enough to do away with the wedge?" Even then I would imaging some old timers still putting in a wedge as the "didn't trust this new fangled technology" And judging by the prancing around done with the second vid there was only enough powder in it to go bang . As the recoil should have sent the whole thing a good 18' backwards. If the idiot lighting it was lucky.
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Pleading thIs while not conclusive seem to indicate I'm not the only person with doubts as to the strength of the screw. And a wedge may have been used. As for the quote about every recoil forces I recall reading that the 68 pounders had a recoil force well over ten tons. Which would bend all but the thickest screws as shown in your inmates.
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Thanks for the wake up call but it was cheesing me of. As it was my thread and my question which was nothing to do with the way rope is measured. Regards
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The question over this 100mm rope is what's being described the rope or beckham... And yes I'm no fan of football And thanks for getting back to the subjects.
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Now splicing I know and enjoy full sized. And I can confirm three is by far and away simpler. No matter the size of the rope. As the coils almost wrap themselves into position especially when doing an eye splice. One of my favourites as when done right. Unlike modern ropes with metal inserts and clamps. Look beautiful and baffles the hell out of none knot tying people. As they can't figure out where the ends have gone. :-)
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With all due respect to experience but the act of going barefoot on ratlines. Runs the risk of inflames Plantar flaciatious. Which far from fatal or needing amputation would render the sailor concerned useless for duty as he would be all but crippled by pain. And even the later comment about thickened soles of feet. Which is just one foot sised corn. Would still suffer from this condition as its the tendons that are inflamed not the surface of the skin. As the rope forces the many small bones of the foot apart stretching things that don't want to be stretched. And as a sufferer of PF it is evil.
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