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Izzy Madd

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About Izzy Madd

  • Birthday 08/02/1966

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    Between the eyes
  • MSN
    Shoot from the hip
  • Website URL
    http://Hide the body well
  • ICQ
    And clean the blood up. It stains
  • Yahoo
    Izzymad@sky.com
  • Jabber
    Then deny all knowledge
  • Skype
    And your secrets safe with me. Unless I get blamed

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Saturn, or it could be Mars‽ no it's definitely Pluto via the trap door in my padded cell.
  • Interests
    Being eccentric.

    For those more observant of you. I've just had a promotion and therefore had the old padded cell revamped complete with hidden trap door. Just don't tell the guards as they've not noticed yet.

    So any bad spellings or strange insults are purely deliberate unless you know me well enough to know I dont know the difference.

    And hunting down that darn Cap'n Flint...

    And ignoring the laws of physics. As I didn't write em.

    As that covers just about everything what else can I say

    And if you don't believe me I'll willingly discuss everything from Quantum Physics to Homer Simpson to Da Vinci to Yogi Bear.

    Me and Yogi are best buddies, along with Leo DV, but Yogi cheats at poker. As does Einstien so we don't allow him to play. Yogi's ok as he's useless even when he cheats.

    Grand master of the ancient martial art of Ecky Thump

    And taking on too many builds at once...

    Ongoing builds,

    Cutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)
    Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)
    Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

Recent Profile Visitors

1,227 profile views
  1. Hi folks trouble is back. I use the bottom from a plastic soda bottle. Then I have five wells, one for PVA, PVA and water, soapy water, CA and acetone, in one place and they don't fall over. And the sides make good windows at a push. I also use the cap as a well if I only need one glue pot.
  2. Trying to remember the location of my hidden trap door. As its too well hidden.

  3. While I'm on forced go slow on building. In case you might not have noticed it doesn't mean I'm not able to stick my oar in here.
  4. Ahoy fellow squirrels, Whilst I'm annoying half the crew of this global ship I might as well annoy some more. Now don't take this wrong I'm not criticising in any way. Just trying to understand different lines of thought My question is about the phrase "scratch built" Now technically anyone who alters the model from the kit is then scratch building all be it more kit bashing. But it's just degrees. And I would like to know how do you decide if it's kit bashed or scratch built is it percentage. And if so is that by weight or volume... Now my real question is. Surely scratch built is building a model from the plans only. That is I assume a given certainty. That and taxes and death. Only one of which I believe exists. And that's taxes... But, and I salute those with the skills patience and imagination. There are those that will roll out lathes and drills etc. and make every part to scale. And great job they do then there are some who still work to the plans but make some bits fabricate others. And buy the best available that is right but pre made. An example that springs to mind would be belaying pins. Many are just right. Many are foul but some are right. So why make them. And then there are those who fabricate things even if there is a valid item available at a reasonable price. Now the latter are true heroes sourcing things most of us don't even see. And at the other end of the scale the just as good who mix match and make. But apart from down playing the latter with such a lowly title. Which there should be a better title like super scratch or what ever. But from my point of view why. Take the belaying pins. Say you need 100. Why sruggle to find a very clever substitute when there is either a perfectly good version out there or why not make them on a lathe. Both are still scratch built but hard for me to understand why. Other than because. Which I've used myself. But this is above and beyond. And what's the difference between using a gear wheel from a watch or buying one from a model shop or making one on a lathe. It still not from a prepreared kit and so is just as valid. Now before I raise the drawbridge against the pitchfork waving villagers wanting to lynch me. Please explain why choose any of the methods beyond just literally scratch built of wooden parts or turning metal parts. And buying Better bits. Which is basic scratch built. And if anyone's got this far without send death threats well done. And please tell me why?
  5. Ahoy there one and all. Now I know I'm more than a loaf short of a picnic. And got more loose screws than a bucket of bolt. But have I imagined it. Or what. As a former cabinetmaker and all round wood butcher. I know that unle you like your wood with splits in it. In exterior conditions where it is likely to get some excess moisture on it. That unles there is no choice you only put ONE fixing in the plank. I THINK I've read the same as regards ships decking. Which lets face it get a tad damp at times. So why is it everyone is imitation at least two fixings. On each plank. As any decent plane jockey will know if you cut the wood the right way you only need one fixing. As all you are doing is stopping the plank from doming. If it's going to cup then you need to keelhaul the wood monkey and get one that know how to do it. ******So where has this double fixings idea come from?****** As the reference I recall was some sort of instructions on how to lay a deck on a full size ship. And I think it may have been a navy manual. And the fact that the size of caulking that is recreated is evidence that the planks were expected to swell by at least 15mm each. Which would mean either fixings fly all over the place or so many split planks there would be more caulking than planking. Even teak which is know for its water repealing properties swells. And with the width of the average ship your looking at a movement width wise of well over 600mm at a conservative estimate.
  6. Hi, He's not just letting me have the instructions but a full set of plans which he's doing specially. So I'd say a great chap.
  7. Ahoy there, Just a little snippet of info for anyone who wants it. I've just learnt that if you need info about a Billing model. The best contact is not the Danish site as that's now defunct and running on auto. Or the English one But here agesofsail@gmail.com As I've just been after a set of plans and they are sending me a set ASAP. And that's from an email sent last night. Not only useful but fast. Hope this helps someone
  8. Is it just me or does anyone else have problems getting acrylic paint to stay on the model. I understand that grease needs to be removed before painting. No problemo. But when it's been drying/curing for over a month and I come to "touch up" parts. And I end up with more missing paint stuck to my fingers than was on the model before I started is taking the wee wee. How are you spposed to hold the blooming thing if the paint stick more to me than the model. Somebody please help. What am I doing wrong. And don't say holding it. Or I'll send the parrot around. And she's not in a good mood since I showed her where to shove her crackers.
  9. Hi, Thanks Greg the peg A double update as regards blackening. The copper I consider a failure as putting out in the rain would be quicker, here at least. Not so sure in Aussie.:-). But the brass has had a while longer and now the colour is ideal and doesn't rub of on totally uncleaned brass both rubbed down and untouched. As one of the wheels was rubbed down the other straight out of the box. I realise it may take longer than the chemicals sold for the job. But if you've got parts you know you want black. You know it at the start. So start the dip then then when you are ready so are they. And no oil or corrosion in sight. Hope this helps. The odd colouring of the centre of one of the wheels is due to the reflective nature of the surface. And is an iridecant black like the feathers of a magpie.
  10. Hi, Thanks Mobbsie, as it happens it's ended 3 and a half hours ago but I'm being taken out for a meal with the family today‽ so I'll still be celebrating. As its the last one before the big 50. You never know my mental age might even get into double figure. but then again perhaps not its too boring being grown up.
  11. I'm afraid I'm on very strict orders to sort out my store before starting anything at a all. But part of the reason is the fact that I managed to get hold of 4kilos of various block. All wood all mixed. But I've now got enough blocks that are decent quality to kit out half the navy. I must admit I am very eager to start as I've managed to get a source of very accurate info from someone associated with NRG. And it's shows some very big differences. Most of which I'm hopeful of incorporating. I'm not allowed to show any of the images but I'll be sure and state when I've used them. I think they may well raise a few eyebrows and create quite a few comment. Izzy
  12. And if you think that's mad wait til I show you what you can do with aluminium powder, rust and glycerin...
  13. Ahoy again. As its been so long since my last post. I thought I'd give you another top tip from the other side of sanity. Are you trying to get that perfect finish on those hull planks or decking. But that woods not palming fair and there are holes and grooves where that horrible grain is. Well worry not. I have the solution and it doesn't involve paint. If you need to fill small grain rips or plucks. So as to get a smooth finish without hiding the grain. You need three things some varnish. Any will do but I find alcohol based works best. Such as sanding sealer. Some thinners to suit your varnish. Now the tricky bit. Sneak past the admiral into the bathroom. You want some pure talc. Yes I did say talc. One of the softest minerals and right there at the bottom of Mohs hardness scale. I find the best is simple brand as its just talc. But you can tell if it's pure talc and not synthetic if it feels greasy between your fingers and leaves a shine on your skin. Also just look at the chuffing label. Right listen up here comes the alchemy bit. First thin your varnish down to about two parts thinner to one varnish. So as its just a little thicker than water. Then start adding the talc. It will go cloudy and if you leave it to sit the talc will sink to the bottom. So keep stirring now and then but you want it so as it just sits on the wood or runs slowly down a vertices surface. Make sure you put it on well and it may take a few coats. But not as many as without. Then leave. And when it has fully set the surface will feel gritty that will go with a fine sanding. But that's where you get the fill. And no it doesn't look white as talc absorbs the varnish and goes clear. If it's true talc. And that shine you get on your skin will add to the finish as it is this lubricant that smooths the surface as you sand. And then finish of with normal finish either wax or varnish. And it will be as smooth as the proverbial behind. IMO
  14. Ahoy there one and all. An update on the update I never posted just to update you. If your still following me. HOW.? When I removed most of the brass it had considerable amounts of the dreaded CA over it which I could have left in the Detol for a month but I decided to speed things up a bit. And so threw them all in a load of acetone. For a couple of days. Tenderises it lovely with a bit of gravy... This then had its own unexpected effect. It removed a lot of the blackness. So as they were multi coloured. Back in the Detol they went. I'm pleased to say that they went even blacker but they do need moving around regular as the underside was far less dark where it had been flat on the bottom. As for the copper... I think it's actually brighter. So no it doesn't work for copper. Sorry folks.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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