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Izzy Madd

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  1. Izzy Madd
    Just a quick query about the monogram. Would not nori glue have held it in place while fileing then just release the thinned monogram quick wash and stick it on the coronade, or would that not be strong enough? Only as of yet I've no materials to embed the monograms into. Also if nori is too weak what about CA with the usual acetone to un glue it. Would that work do you think?
  2. Izzy Madd
    The only reason for the turpentine is to make the wax soft enough to wipe on. It can also be done with hot wax but this is harder as the room has to be hot as well or else the wax sets as soon as it touches the wood. But if you gently warm any paste wax and apply it with a paint brush. You can get a really thin coat which is what you want. Also if you use a coloured wax paste such as briwax then it will fill the gaps such as those between deck boards and give an overall look of instant age. Just be careful to keep evening it out with a rag as you go or you'll end up with streaks. But if you do get streaks a hair dryer will help soften it so you can spread it out again.
  3. Izzy Madd
    Why not look into self adhesive copper tape used by stain glass makers lots of widths on eBay. And no worry about the colour as it is copper and shines fabulously
  4. Izzy Madd
    I too am desperate for help with the colour scheme as most of the other Victory makers won't share. I've got a list of colours on the box if you want it. Heller 1/100. Just PM me
  5. Izzy Madd
    This is from a restorers point of view. You need to remember that gloss paints were enormously expensive and only used where vital such as the out side. Inside they would have used a milk paint in all probability which was mixed on the day and used on the day. It gave a flat mat finish just like white wash. And rubbed of as much. Sometimes people would clear wax over it to stop it rubbing of. Think of a gunner in white clothes leaning on a yellow wall sweat and heat would be a sure sign he'd been lolling about. And a sure way to get flogged. So if you must shine the inside do so with a soft shine. And even use beeswax. If you go to your local beekeeper. Look on line for one. And I get mine a kilo for £4 mixed with pure turpentine or just warmed in hot water then paint it on as you would varnish. Leave over night then buff to a great shine. And it's still possible to add details like grime by using mineral oil(baby oil) and a powder based paint. The oil softens the wax and the paint sinks in. If you don't like it just scarpe the wax off. And try again Hope this helps. Izzy
  6. Izzy Madd
    As an ex wood butcher. The only reason I would use anything before staining was if it was a very big surface and it would be impossible to keep a live edge. On something like a model I doubt it would need it. And would just raise the grain. Which is fine if you want an ultra smooth finish. But the stain will probably do that. And if I did pre wet a piece. And I'm talking a table top eight foot by four plus. Then I would use a sprayer with washing up liquid, just a few drops. And water. And a VERY light spray and keep spraying to make sure it stay wet ahead of me. But don't over do it or you'll get tide marks in the stain. My adive,IMO, is just stain it if you don't want too dark a colour use sanding sealer and de nib after. Izzy
  7. Izzy Madd
    As a retired cabinetmaker and restorer wax is one thing I have used a lot. 1. The main problems with wax is the build up in couriers, but that can be lessened by warming the wax in a none flammable way such as a bowl of hot water. 2. The softening applies to the application rather than dilute it which can be a nightmare if you get the wrong solvent. If it's pure beeswax true turpentine if you really want to thin it. Get it from the art shops. Not turps substitute. Don't bother with Renaissance wax over priced and only needed if you want your model to survive 500 years or more. A normal low odour wax for furniture is fine. IMO I would just use raw beeswax. Mixed with two parts turpentine. And warmed to soften it. That will give you a warm soft glow without too much colour change. Wax will darken woods slightly and doesn't stop uv damage. Nothing does other than not puttingitin the sun. 3. If gluing or painting is needed then you'll have to remove all the wax from the relivent part. But turps substitute will dissolve it. Weird I know. If it's on wood use sparingly and allow to,dry for around three days. If it's a safe surface then just wipe down with alcohol before painting as the turps substitute leaves an oily residue. 4. With saying sealer the wax will polish to a great shine so long as you cut back the nibs. Which is the air that's trapped in the waning sealer as it dries. One last caveat beeswax can be sticky if not refined properly. Adding a little carnauba wax 10% max will ease this and give an even deeper polish. But don't be too quick to re wax. As it will build up and look awful remember wax only comes of if rubbed. It never evaporates.ask the Egyptian mummies. They were waxed and still around now. So beeswax isn't that harsh. Hope this helps All IMO of course
  8. Izzy Madd
    Have you seen Dafi's Victory. He's used self adhesive real copper foil. Designed for the stain glass business all sorts of widths on eBay. And about the same price as paint but with the real beauty of the glow of real copper. Which will either age beautifully or you can varnish it after wiping down with alcohol. Not sure of the exact page but looks great.
  9. Izzy Madd
    Not meaning to fly before Ivan crawl but there are several issues not much mentioned about this colour revaluation. Now please don't think I'm saying this is what happened. I'm not. But if the original was dark shall we say. Then what ever was put over it had to cause the underlying layer(s) to bleed through some what. As would all subsequent layers. As the paint would have dried from the outside in then once the top surface was dry. The solvents had only one way to go, in. And doing so drawing some at least chemicals through with it. Then there is the issue of sun bleaching before reprinting. Not to mention sea water. As we've all seen the "trendy" New England washed out colour schemes. And the fact that high quality paints. Which would have been used especially when the masthead was found to be rotten. Would have turned darker as they oxidised not lighter. And now the scientists are looking at a fresh, mixed, unoxidised, mish mash of colours edge on so not even the original surfaces. And saying this is what she looked like. Basically it's impossible to really know. Even the oil paintings of the day which took around 75 to dry fully have changed colour. As is seen by the fact that photos are banned on a lot of valuble paintings. BECAUSE TIME AND LIGHT CHANGE THE TRUE COLOURS. And what has the old lady had more than her fair share of. Time and light. And cut price bodge ups as well as high priced "restorations". All of which have been subject to the bloke who mixes the paint that day. And as anyone who's had paint mixed will say. "That's not the colour I wanted. It'll do". And with the amount of paint involved no way could they just nip to the 1805 equivalent of B&Q. For a few tins of magnolia :-). And one last thing what is the image we all know so well. Unless someone has a time machine and a death wish to nip back to 1805 in the middle of the sea surrounded by a cloud of lead we will never know. And so it's what is liked that matters not what someone 200 years ago had going cheap of the back of a cart.‽
  10. Izzy Madd
    Hi, I've had a very quick look at The Beast this morning. And noticed that at least som of the masts are in two parts. In order to save on some details, or just being lazy. What is you thoughts on putting a reinforcing tube inside the ones possible. Is it worth it or just overkill? Also you mentioned the chains and making them out of cotton. As part of my multitude of pastimes I've made jewelry and wondered what sort of size I'd be looking for. As I've som very fine bronze tone chain that I'm hopping will look right. But not sure at this time about scale. As I'm still waiting on delivery of some books on the subject. Thanks And very daunted Izzy
  11. Izzy Madd

    Well. It's arrived. And what a beauty she is. I can't wait to begin. It may be a day or two as I want to check everything. Not that I feel I need to. But just in case. The quality is fab.but it's a real big un' in it. As they say round here. :-):-)

  12. Izzy Madd

    Well, if today's anything to go by. As I've managed to glue one piece together.on the Cutty Sark.the victory should take me the next six years...

  13. Izzy Madd
    With the incredible amount of friction involved with any natural rope passing through six plain holes as in a pair of deadeyes id be very surprised if even a half hitch was needed to keep them in place. As just a double hitch is all that's neaded to keep an entire ship at dockside because of the friction alone.and on a deadeye it's being tripled on the same rope. For example one turn around a post is enough friction to enable one person. Unaided to hold the weight of four climbers plus a stretcher. Without any need for that person to be anchored.
  14. Izzy Madd
    Hi, I hope you didn't think I was trying to tell you how to do it but it just seemed from memory that they may have been the right size. They should be softer than pins though. As the can snap very easily. What sort of diameter are the pins. Only I often have a knack of finding things in the oddest of places. I think it comes from having to have such a varied career. Due to 6 redundancies. As well as vast interests from knot tying to jewellery making and even leather work. And you'd be surprised how many time products from one interest. Are needed in another but there isn't any crossover normally. Izzy
  15. Izzy Madd
    Has anyone on here been mad enough to build the Airfix 90253 "Cutty Sark" Special Edition? Or is it only me... And if anyone else had tried what was there opinion of the kit? Because as far as I can tell two blind committees were given the job of designing each half of A ship. And they then drew lots as to what to call it. When I used to do these models Airfix was the name. They were crisp detailed and at least looked as though they should fit. Yes they needed fettling. But now it's as though some one has got a load of parts and thrown them in a box and said "how many idiots can we get to buy this"... Even the hull the two biggest parts are different shapes different sizes more sink holes than British roads. And nearly no detail.and what there is is distorted. I'll post my effort soon on the build section. But not as a how to do it. More a how can I do it.‽
  16. Izzy Madd
    I've just been reading the instructions for Dafi's excellent etched parts for the deadeyes and he suggests either off cut Spurs or filled down pins. First of all I'm only guessing but wouldn't veneer pins be the right size roughly without extra attention. And please remember this is only a question not a demand. Especially for those with less equipment/ability/confidence. When attaching the chains if a fine brass or even the core from copper electric wire. Made into a loop and passed through the chain and then through the side of the hull where it can be fixed as securely as you want. Short of welding that is :-P
  17. Izzy Madd
    Update for my comment about blacking steel cannonball There's an auction on eBay, 221688613139, for 1kilo of 2mm lead shot. You have to make your own arrangements for collecting but at 2mm they are very close and already the right colour. Also the bearings in general are where I picked up the trick of ciric acid. As I bought some old stock that was very old 30+ years maybe. But some had gone rusty. I threw them all into the acid simply for speed. Within two minutes they started bubbling. So much so that the jar I'd put them in poped the lid off within the hour. But I just kept swilling them around when I thought about it until they were jet black. But no chance of it chipping or scratching. As I researched later to discover what had happened was the surface of the metal had bee turned into a protective layer of FeO₃ which it seems they call pickling in the metal trade. And has just about replaced Muric acid. As it does a better job and can be dropped down the drain. As its found in most soft drinks.
  18. Izzy Madd
    Hi, Someone gave me a list of research materials but for the life of me I can't find it anywhere. Sorry to ask but whom ever it was could you please re submit it to me. Thanks Izzy
  19. Izzy Madd
    I've found over the years that citric acid. Very cheap and organic and almost harmless, it stings if you have a cut. But the blacking process takes about three days and so is very finely controlled. And leaves a natural dark color on steel balls like these. As well as removing all grease and no stains. Just put them somewhere warm to dry swiftly. And they look just right Izzy
  20. Izzy Madd
    Observation but you've got no bucket in this scene which was vital in times of full on battle as the sponge and rag often came out smoking or even burning.
  21. Izzy Madd
    Having had a similar issue except full size. I used two 1” eye bolts looped into each other. Not simple or easy. Then into a large tube or dowel ends. This worked great as a universal joint worked both ways and even in three directions. Also if a tube is used even on the end the a collet can be inserted to hold the bit with the tube threaded to take a domed nut with a hole in the dome to tighten it. IMO
  22. Izzy Madd
    Looking at these images. Would the same effect have been achieved buy cutting grooves in the wood with grooves going the opposite direction on the same side. The glue strips into a solid piece, more stable. Then when the glue is dry run the whole thing over the saw to create the grooves on the underside? I'm just curious as to if you attempted this before I might?
  23. Izzy Madd
    It looks like and would probably work if you were to make a small diarama of the carnage of battle (-:
  24. Izzy Madd
    Just an observation from another angle. That's exa how thread is started when sewing leather so that it can't pull through and "makes a small splice". I fear I may get to involved with the ropes myself as knots are another of my passions and I hate doing them wrong. Even on this scale...
  25. Izzy Madd
    [you mean to say I'll be the only one full rigging EVERY gun? Sorry but not only was I also an art student but an art student in the last even years who did grouch design so detail is absolute:-) quote name=dafi" post="3107" timestamp="1361120716]And what is that for??? Until now she is a nice ship but as I mentioned already in a earlier post, it is meant to be a martial piece of war technology ... ... and I simply realized that I will not be able to push much further away the wonderful and lovely task of building the hundred cannons ;-) First came bolts and some color shading: highlights and shadow - as usual. Then the apron for the secured one ... ... the flint look for the one in use and the breeching ropes. Even though it looks short, it is long enough that the muzzel can be retrieved inside for about a meter. The rope will be replaced still by a better one :-) For the rigging there are so many different versions found in the literature and in Portsmouth, so I decided to try that one for the secured one: Now come the freshely build blocks ... ... but looks strange ... *think* ... *read* ... ok ... ... block and lanyard were the wrong way ... ... and here on the secured one. And as it pleases here some more views :-) Now welcome Hell-O-Kitty ;-) Remark 1: The side lanyards are not meant to stay that tightly pulled to the back, they are meant to be loose on the floor. But it was less disturbing for the work :-) Remark 2: No, even I will not do all the guns this way on the lower decks! But to work out simplifications, I have to know the real thing :-) All the best, Daniel

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