G.L.
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Everything posted by G.L.
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While applying the inner planking and rectifying my mistakes with the port holes and the frame lengths, I continue laying the gun deck. Like on the lower deck only the portside will be fully planked. At the starboard side planking will be omitted from the starboard topsail sheet bit on. I lay the first two planks on each side of the forward hatch.
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Thank You Hakan, The 'Ostend shipje' has some similarity with the British smack, but it is only half the size of it. Flemish fishermen who evaded to Great Brittan during the 1st World War got acquainted with the smack and introduced the type in Belgium after the war. I have somewhere a smack cross section project on the shelf, but have to finish first my HMS Triton cross section. G.L.
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13.9 The deck parts are made now, but not yet attached to the deck. Next thing to do is closing the bulwark and finishing the rail.
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13.8 The tiller arm.
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Shaping the tiller arm with fret-saw and file.
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13.6 The tiller arm was made a bit later then the rudder, but I add it with this post for the logical continuation of my report. Taking the measurements of a piece of wood.
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13.5 On the deck there are five wooden anti-slip strips to give the helmsman foothold.
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13.4 The rudder is attached to the stern with one long rudder pintle held in three braces. I make the middle brace a bit longer than drawn in the plan to give support to all the rudder planks.
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13.3 The rudder, provisionally attached to the stern.
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13.2 When the glue is dry, I saw the rudder along the template. and sand it.
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Part 13: Making the rudder. 13.1 The rudder is made of three oak planks, the main piece and two after pieces. Because the main piece is thicker than the after pieces. I lay a small sheet of brass of half the thickness difference below the after piece planks to glue them together. I lay also a similar brass sheet on top of the whole to put some pressure on it while the glue is drying.
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12.42 The stove pipe in its holder on the deck when the furnace is not in use and the hatch is closed.
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12.41 The furnace, painted in black and placed on position in the store.
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12.40 All the parts of the cooking furnace from left to right: the furnace; the removable stove pipe. The holder for the stove pipe when it is stored on the deck in case the store hatch is closed.
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12.39 In the shrimp cooking store stands the shrimp cooking-furnace. The furnace is made in a similar manner as the stove of the crew shelter (post 9.8 -9.11), using a wooden cylinder and cardboard.
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Thanks for your input, Marc. Where do you buy it?
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Thanks Jan, I think that I am only an 'amateur' in metalwork. I have seen craftsmanship af a much higher standard on this forum. G.L.
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Maybe an advice to future Triton cross section builders is at its place here: Wait until you are arrive at the planking at the level of the gun ports before placing the gun port sills and lintels and make the frames (fourth futtock and top timber) some centimeters higher than indicated on the plan.
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My frames are also a little too short. It is not really a problem for the most of them because their top ends will be hidden by the inner and outer planking, but the fourth futtock of frame sticks out of the sheer rail and must be lengthened at both sides. To have a larger glue surface, I saw them off under an angle of approximate 45° and glue a comfortable long piece on top of it. I do the same with the fourth futtock of frame C because this one remains also visible.
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The notches for those lintels have to be filled. 103.bmp
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Of course the gun port lintels are also too low, therefore I saw them out.
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My mistake can be resolved and will fortunately been hidden by the inner and outer hull planking. I start to place new gun port sills. Now I have the exact height indicated by the inboard planking.
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they are even lower on the starboard side
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While continuing the inboard planking upward from the gun deck, it becomes clear what I realized already since a while. I made the gun port openings already at the start in the frame production stage. Now it seems that the gun port sills are sitting too low.
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Yes Nils, I use strips of 220 grams black paper which I glue at the side of the planks with ordinary white wood glue before fixing them on the deck beams. G.L.
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