G.L.
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Everything posted by G.L.
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8.5 I try to redraw the interior arrangement of the boat to a more practicable version which sticks as much as possible to what is drawn on the sketch.
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8.4 It is about time to think about the interior of the boat. I have only one contemporary sketch of how the vessel might look like. The sketch is now very precise. For example the crew shelter in the forecastle is not to scale at all. On my model I measure an average headroom of 1.2 meter, but the sketch shows al spacious cabin with two bunks behind each other. If I convert them to the real space I dispose of, I have such a small bunks that if they should lay me in it, I would never get out of them anymore. 167.bmp
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8.3 The finished thick strakes.
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8.2 I glue the strakes onto the frames using clamps.
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Part 8: Lower deck and upper deck structure 8.1 My shrimper has two thick strakes. 164.bmp
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Wow Derek, You are going fast! I have some questions: I have the impression that you made de keel a bit shorter at one side of the model. Is there a reason for? You made the notches for the carlings over the whole thickness of the deck beams. The carlings are thinner than the deck beams. Wouldn't it be better to make smaller notches in which the carlings can be laid? Many regards, G.L.
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Thank you Nils. Oak is a satisfactory wood to work with. I am also satisfied of the result. I was the first time I planked a hull. G.L.
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7.6 The sand band is nailed to the keel.
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7.5 Time to make a last measurement.
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7.4 I want to blacken them with oxidant. It succeeds easy for the nails but the sand band obstinately keeps its brass color even after being coated several times with oxidant. I hope that it will become darker when I color the hull.
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7.3 I drill holes for nails on regular distances. In the bottom side I deepen the holes with a drill of the diameter of the nail heads because I want them to be sunk in the sand band.
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7.2 The under part of the keel of the shrimper was protected by a steel sand band. To make it I solder some brass strips to each other to form a long band. I file the front and after side round. 157.bmp
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Part 7: Deck gear preparations and sand band 7.1 Some parts of the deck gear like the jib boom support and the fishing winch continue below the deck till the bottom of the vessel. I make their bottom pieces now. I leave them longer than needed. Later, when the deck beams are in place, they can be sawn at the correct height.
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6.20 After another afternoon of sanding down...
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6.19 It took me 2 afternoons to tree nail the whole hull. Now my boat looks like hedgehog.
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6.18 Only one layer left to place. As can be seen on the picture, the port side will not be fully planked to keep the inside structure of the vessel visible.
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6.17 The hull gradually fills up. After each layer of planks I mark with a pencil the position of the frames to know afterwards where to put tree nails.
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6.16 The space between the frames becomes a bit cramped to use clamps to hold the planks in place. Therefore I nail the planks on the frames with predrilled holes. I drill the holes in the locations where afterwards should be a tree nail. To prevent the fragile frames for breaking when I hammer the nails I use a stick in the bench vise as a prop.
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6.15 Planking can go on now.
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6.14 Now there is still space between the frames, I place the lower deck beams. They lay parallel with the waterlines, with two small planks at both sides of the keel it is easy to attach them to the frames at the correct height.
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6.13 With two planks at both sides, the hull has enough strength to remove the supports. Now the inside hull is accessible. Time to make and place the mast step.
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6.12 Sawing, sanding and gluing the plank at its place is very similar as described in my previous posts. Here some pictures of the results:
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6.11 The second plank is again a challenge. The upper edge of the wale was straight, that is not more the case for all the following planks. To determine the upper shape of the following plank I tape a piece of tracing paper to the hull. I brush past the sharp under edge of the wale with a pencil, marking the edge on the tracing paper. I mark also the middle line of my reference frames. With a pair of compasses I take the width of the plank on the marked frames and bring them over to the corresponding frame lines on the tracing paper. Connecting the width marks I obtain the lower profile of the plank.
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6.10 The result.
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6.9 The wale is glued at starboard side and at portside.
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