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G.L.

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Everything posted by G.L.

  1. 14.20 To be able to drill the holes in equal positions in all the dead eyes I make a little auxiliary tool. I drill a hole with the same diameter as the dead eyes in one side of a hinge. In the opposite side I drill the three holes of the dead eye.
  2. 14.19 With the railing in place, I can make and place the dead eyes I turn a cylindrical stock in hard wood, I believe it is ipe and make grooves in it, using a round file.
  3. Patrick, Your loose hand is very steady. Maybe You had a Grimbergen Tripel before painting. I like it that You paint in a way that the wood grain remains visible. G.L.
  4. 14.17 To make a good fit for the horizontal, I make paper templates:
  5. Thank You Nils. 14.16 Inside the transom there are 2 vertical and 2 horizontal knees as strengthening. The vertical knees:
  6. But done is done. I continue to glue the steps. The upper side of each step must be horizontal. Because the hull is cambered the after side is of each step has another angle. I sand them to the right angle with the band sander.
  7. Only now I look to the 'end view plan' of the entry steps and I see that on this plan the step is placed just on top of the outboard trim. A small inequality between the two plans? Apparently it was not necessary to cut a piece from the outboard trim.
  8. According to the plan, the second step from above is positioned on top of the lower outboard trim so I cut the necessary length out of it.
  9. The sides of the steps have also the same profile. I shape them, using a 3mm mill.
  10. Thank you Christian. To give you an impression of the size: below a of one of my modelling friends examining my cross section during our monthly meeting yesterday afternoon. G.L.
  11. 14.15 The port forward rail with belaying pins. The pins are made as described in my post 12.2.
  12. 14.13 The forward rails have five holes for belaying pins, the aft three.
  13. 14.12 There are also four rails for belaying pins on the sides. The shaping of them is done in the same way as the bollards.
  14. For the upper layer of outboard trims I use the same profile, but this time upside down. This time the trims are glued directly on the outboard planking.
  15. Some small nails in pre drilled holes keep the trims on their place when the glue is drying. As You can also see I glued little pieces of wood to lengthen the frames which were a bit too short.
  16. I saw the back side of them to the correct angle with the help of the adjustable table saw.
  17. To make the outboard trims, I make a scraper with a piece of a cutter knife.
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