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G.L.

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Everything posted by G.L.

  1. 12.4 Here it is assembled and standing into position. Before it will be placed permanently it has to be blackened.
  2. 12.3 As there is a stove in the crew shelter, there has to be a chimney. I make it of a 5mm brass tube sawn under 45° and soldered together. It stands on a small brass ring, sawn and filed out of a brass plate.
  3. 12.2 I add also the a small rail with 3 holes for belaying pins, connecting the jib boom support with the knight head. The belaying pins are made on the lathe of a spar of beech. 1. I first cut the thin part of the pin. 2. With a round file I shape the body of the handle. 3. I then cut off the pin from the spar and turn it around with the thin part in the chuck and I round the upper side of the handle with a flat (triangle) file. 4. The result. 5. The pins in the rail.
  4. Part 12: Making deck gear 12.1 Now the deck is laid, I can finish the jib boom support with props on the deck.
  5. Thank You Michael. I discovered recently your Bristol pilot boat log. That is ship modelling at a whole different level. It is clear that I have still a lot to learn. It is thanks to logs like yours that we can continue improving our skills. G.L.
  6. 11.6 When the model is fully planked. I lay some weights on the deck and let everything dry. When the glue is dry, I scrape the planks smooth with a knife blade.
  7. 11.5 I start the planking from amidships and use a lath to glue the first planks in a straight line. At the sides and the heads of each plank I glue black cardboard strips to imitate the caulking. As the planking reaches the sides of the boat they can been cut into the waterways.
  8. 11.4 The waterways in place, but not glued. The inner edge is not yet shaped. I will do that while laying the deck planks.
  9. 11.3 I copy the shape of the outer edge of the waterway on a piece of tracing paper. After the template is glued on a of pine plank of 3 mm thick, it can been sawn.
  10. 11.2 At the stern, an oak plank is covering the space between the stern and the last but one deck beam.
  11. Part 11: Laying the deck: 11.1 Only the port side of the deck will be closed. I will leave the biggest part of the starboard side uncovered to preserve a view on the deck beam structure and the interior. I start with making and placing small filling pieces between the bulwark stanchions. On the sides of them I glue a strip of black cardboard to imitate the caulking.
  12. The jib boom support finally into position. Remark the round groove in the port knight head for the bow sprit, it was filed out with a round file.
  13. 10.4 The stringers are shortened to the correct height and the clamp is glued into position. A sheave is added on top of the starboard stringer.
  14. 10.2 The block is glued between the stringers in the slots and on the inside of the starboard stringer a sheave shell is glued into position.
  15. 10: Finishing the jib boom support 10.1 In part 7, post 7.1 I made the stringers of the jib boom support. Now it is time to finish it. Once the deck is laid it can't been removed any more. I start with cutting the slots for the block on which the bowsprit will rest. The block is sawn from a small piece of oak and the round groove for the bowsprit was filed in it with a round file.
  16. 9.14 While placing the deck beams, I make the grooves for the carlings which will connect the beams on the edge of the waterway.
  17. 9.13 Now the bulkheads are in place, the deck beams can be glued into position. Before doing that, I coat the inside of hull with a blend of 2/3 linseed oil and 1/3 turpentine. With the deck beams in place the inside of the hull won't be accessible any more
  18. 9.12 The fish hold is separated from the sail shed by a low partition. In the sail shed the stringers for the fishing winch are not yet in place.
  19. 9.10 The lids are of cardboard, the hinges of small pieces of brass and the ring at the top side of a piece of copper wire
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