G.L.

Having had some enforced time off due to the "attack of the killer carrots", it's time to resume  normal programming. 
The Scenery Base
Having read through the instructions several times, including reading ahead to the next section, I decided to do things a little out of sequence and make up some of the scaffolding that would be needed shortly. I wanted to have this on hand and ready to go when it was needed, rather than making it up while watching the clock on setting times for the scenery base.
 
The scaffolding items are relatively simple, and all are made according to provided templates in the plans. These consist of the bow and stern scaffolding assemblies, the scaffolding walkways and two ramp pieces. Here they are ready to go and put aside until needed.
 

 
Not shown here, the keel bracing was also added at this time rather than waiting until the ship was placed in the scenery. These are simply bracing pieces that run from the outer ends of the keel supports to the keel itself. Sorry – no photo of this bit. As it turned out, I was very glad that I installed these at this point.
 
The next step was to mix up some Sculptamold to contour the shoreline and create the pit for the ship. I was very apprehensive about this as I had never done anything like this before and it is also a “point of no return”. It actually took me three attempts at mixing the Sculptamold before I had a consistency that I was happy with. A cardboard template of the ships keel is provided to assist in shaping the pit area. A little AK 11008 paint (in place of the called for Polly Earth) is added to the water before mixing with the Sculptamold. I also added a few small stones to represent rocks in the area under the dock.
 

 
In the picture above you can see the indentation made for the rear pylons of the dock. The instructions say to spread a base layer of dirt over the Sculptamold before pressing the ship down to sink the keel supports just a bit into the Sculptamold. I found that the surface of the Sculptamold had already hardened to a point that made this impossible, so I mixed up a fresh batch, spread it over the area where the ship was to go, and then placed the ship into it. I subsequently added some more dirt over the top. The barge derrick dock was also placed at this time. I was able to create some holes in the Sculptamold by pushing a 3/16” diameter brass rod into the mix. This allowed me to place the supporting pylons at the right depth for the height of the dock surface. A little epoxy was added to the bottoms of the pylons to secure them in place.
 
Once a layer of dirt was added, it was then lightly wet down with “Wet Water” (water with a few drops of dish detergent) sprayed from a plant sprayer bottle. A mixture of 50/50 white glue and water, with a couple of drops of dish detergent, is then applied over the entire surface using an eyedropper/syringe. 
 
At this point, I also decided to change the colour of the bottom of the water area and added that by applying some artists acrylics – a mix of Turquoise, Phthalo Green, and Aquamarine – trying to have the lighter green colour towards the shore, and a deeper blue further out to represent the deeper water.
 

 
In the above picture, you can see on the left-hand side where an errant brush stroke hit the sea wall. I was able to remove this later with the gentle application of an alcohol/ink wash.
Completing the Ship
Once the base had dried, I decided that I didn’t like the plain dark brown of the floor of the pit, so I mixed up some sand and two different light-coloured HO scale ballasts, and sprinkled that over the dirt, again applying a white glue/water mix to seal it in place. 
 
The main scaffolding supports were then added. Once again, I found that by using an awl to make an initial indentation, I was able to push the supports down into the Sculptamold. These were each glued to the scaffolding rib braces previously installed on the ship. Additional keel supports were also added at both bow and stern.
 

 
The scaffolding walkways could then be glued in place.
 

 
The two-part ramp was then added to the port side. As suggested by the instructions, a slight bow was imparted into the lower section, adding to the appearance of age.
 

 
Finally, some bracing pieces were added between neighbouring scaffold brace supports. Two ladders were made up and placed, and a scrap wood chute was made up and placed towards the bow end. Then some small pieces of scrap wood were added to the chute, and more scraps were scattered around the pit. All of these scraps were given the white glue/water mix treatment to secure them in place.
 

 
It's a bit hard to see in the photographs, but the white glue/water mix has left a bit of a sheen on the scrap wood pieces. I may need to go back and carefully apply some dull cote to knock that back. In the meantime, that completes the work on the ship and the next step will be construction of the barge derrick.
 

little step:






 

Yes it looks like that will happen.   But keep in mind this is all new to me.  So how viable it will be will be determined after I am assured I can do it.  I will start a new build log for the mini speedwell once I get started.  I have to start over and take pictures...I will also need to do some redrafting to incorporate what I learned from from experiments up to this point.  I will also also admit that I dont own any of his books or any books on making miniature models.   So I will just wing it and see how it turns out.   I could start reading up on how everyone else does these extreme miniature models but I have decided to stay pure to my own unpolluted experiments.   We shall see how it turns out.
 
Getting back to the full sized 3/8" scale version....another first for me as I have never built a POF model before....
 
Work continues on the framing.
 
The last two cant frames number 28 and 29 were added.  These looked very challenging after reading Greg's account of building them.   But once the proper shapes were drafted after about 5 attempts at tweaking them,  they were surprising easily to bevel and add.
 
Here is a look at the two aft cant frames after shaping.  
 

They are laser cut of course.  With etched reference lines for the bevels required.   The first ...number 28...was easy enough.  Just a bevel along the top.  This illustration should explain it better than I can describe in writing.
 

Then it was glued into place using the last remaining slot in the deadwood.
 
Aft cant frame 29 or as Greg and David describe it...a filler frame,  was done just the same.  But there are more bevels that were sanded into them with a sanding stick.   I disc sander would do the trick in about 30 seconds.  But as I mentioned, I am building this entirely by hand without power tools as I know many folks dont have those.
 

Its beveled to sit against the wing transom.  But it is also beveled to sit against the deadwood.   There is no slot created by those wedges for this one.   The heel must be beveled in the traditional way.   Laser etched lines show you exactly were to start the bevels. It doesnt take very long to do.
 
Lastly a bottom of the heel was sanded on a curve to match the bearding line.   Then it was tested in position.   Tweak it if you need to but mine fit rather well on the first go.  I got lucky.   Glue them in and fair the hull frames for one final last time.  Here is a picture of those last two aft cant frames which you can see.  This was taken after fairing.   I also added the treenails for all of the frames to finish it up.
 

 
This completed all of the hull framing except for the upper port sills.  So that was next.
 
These are also laser cut and rather simple to glue into position.   I also laser cut a spacer that is the correct height.   You can make your own that stretches all the way from port to starboard but this small length worked just as well.   The spacer is laser cut in two layers.  Just glue the layers together so you have a nice wide spacer.   Rest it on the lower sill and position the upper.   Its really very easy.   
 

 
Do this for the six upper sills on each side.  They were laser cut slightly longer than needed.  Just sand it to fit nice and tight and glue them in.   Then fair it into the hull.
 
This actually finishes up all the hull frames.  All done and it took 5 1/2 months from design to completion at this point.
 
I only have the stern framing left to finish up chapter two.   Then its on to planking.   Here are some pictures.  I am actually quite pleased since I had never built a POF model before.   It was like diving right in the deep end.  But surprisingly it all worked out according to plan.   Withought any major challenges or redesigns.
 
I have posted an image of the framing plan right beneath the last photo so you can see how it all followed the plan as developed quite well.  Who would have thought!!
 
 


 


 
And one last drawing......showing the difference in scales between the 3/8" and 3/32" scale Speedwell models.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I resumed the setting up of the upper deck:

In the meantime, i have looked at where and how wales planks keel etc.. come.
Planks (oak) in the lower part of the hull were 10 cm thick. Respect to the builders 500 years ago for getting this done
 
 

The position of the wales and decks on section 1 3 5 6 8 and 10

The stern has also been studied.  Although not proven but also not disapproved. two stern chasers will be provided

to be continued, thanks for following

Fillerblocks 
 
All filler blocks are glued

Sand evenly with the angle grinder 😇

After a few minutes 

Dust, dust, dust.
Never do this indoors 😷😉

The final sanding was done by hand. 
The base for the hull is ready. With all the extra plywood and filler blocks, this is a solid base that will not warp later.

What is already noticeable is the pointed shape of the bow. I did not expect this at all from a carrack and certainly not from one of this size

And first coat of resin on, just the weave fill to go.

Ready to wet out in the morning.
What are peoples thoughts on plating materials?
On one hand copper  or the other Styrene sheet, I am thinking styrene glued onto the hull with Cyano since its lapped buts on both inner and outer strakes.
Much like the plating in RMS Titanic: A ModelMaker's Manual by Peter Davies-Garner

Keith, Druxey, Mark, Rick. Thank you for your comments. Fortunately here are the final few photos. I was having some trouble extracting these from my phone but a teenager helped and sorted me out. So this is the final batch. Thank you for everyone who has supported me throughout the build. I usually take some time off before I commence my next project so this will be my last post for a while. But as ever I will be supporting the rest of you during my period of inactivity.

Chain-rails and smoke-stack stays
 
Due to several business and private travels over the past month not such much progress has been made …
 
In the meantime, I had received some special material for simulating the various small chains, namely for the railing and the stays for the smoke-stack. The material is black-oxidised Konstantan™-wire of 0.06 mm and 0.07 mm diameter. Konstantan™ is a CuNi-alloy that is characterised by a very constant specific resistance over a wide temperature range and low temperature extension coefficient. However, I am not interested in these properties, but it is the thinnest black wire I could get and its breaking strength is somewhat higher than that of pure copper.
 
The idea is to twist together two strands of wire so that the pitch is approximately that of the length of chain-link. Two strands of this twisted wire then are twisted together in the opposite direction. To the naked eye and with my +3 loupe this looks quite convincingly like a somewhat twisted chain. That is a close as I can get in this scale. 

Chain-rail on folding stanchions (from WAAP, 1900).
 
There is a photograph that shows details of the railing on the deck-house quite clearly and there is an instruction book for draughtsmen (WAAP, 1900) that has a drawing of the folding chain-railing as used by the Imperial German Navy. There is a scale bar that allows to calculate the various dimensions and the height tallies with the railings in the lithographs of the WESPE-Class. According to this the stanchions are around 85 cm heigh which translates to 5.3 mm in 1:160 scale. The chain-links are 60 mm (0.4 mm) long with a wire-diameter of 8 mm (0.05 mm).
 
Chain-rail around the deck-house on a WESPE-Class boat (LAVERRENZ, 1900).
 
Years ago, I had drawn my own stanchions and etched them from 0.2 mm brass-sheet. The idea was to solder two together in order to arrive at the correct thickness, without problems with under-etching in my primitive set-up. However, when I recently saw the commercially produced etched stanchions by SÄMANN-Ätztechnik in Germany, I realised that my home-made one could not compete quality-wise. However, their two-chain ones in 1:150 were too high (even at that scale). The three-chain ones, on the other hand, where of the correct height when using the lower ring to simulate the hinge for folding down. With the laser-cutter I also cut some small plates to simulate the foot-plates.

 
The holes for the stanchions were enlarged at the top with a round burr, so that half of the lower ring would be embedded. It would have been nice to have also photoetched parts for the foot-plates, which would have looked much crisper …

 
The chain-stays for the smoke-stacks caused me some head-scratching, in particular the connections to the stack and to the deck. The chain was done as for the railings, but with the 0.07 mm wire. Making and fitting shackles of less than 1 mm in length was physically impossible. So, I resorted to some dark grey thread. Not ideal, but there are just some physical limits that are impossible to overcome.

 
In order to not damage completed work, I am working from the centre of the ship outwards. For this reason, I also had to put on first the inner stays of the smoke-stack and then the railings.
 
As always, close-up photographs are rather discouraging, but the rails look quite reasonable at normal viewing distance (me thinks).

 
A problem is the springiness of the wire, so the double-twisted wire is more forgiving than the simple wire. It is not so easy to shape a nice catena that properly sags downwards, with the upper and lower chain in one plane. Luckily, deviations are only noticeable, when looking straight down. I still have to work on the stays …
 
 
To be continued ....

If I do this keep in mind that building a miniature is not easy.  These scales are harsh on the eyes and the parts are super delicate. The hair brackets are .015thick boxwood.   The trailboard carvings are laserboard.   This will be a super advanced kit just for the dexterity and light hand you will need.   
 
The framing will be very similar to the longboat kit...just much smaller.  Frames will have a break-away center.   But the mid-ship frames  will be only 1 3/4"wide.   The hull will be 7 7/8" long and the breath will be 1.75".
 
mid ship frame below…
 
My original intent was to just build this mini for fun...and then it morphed into making a limited run of ten kits to give away at next years joint clubs.   Our New Jersey club is hosting next year.   I may still do that.   But if I do make them for joint clubs I will have switch gears and just work on the mini for a while.  One year isnt exactly a huge amount of time.  But if there is broader interest I will just work both together and think of something else for next year's joint clubs show.
 

 
so if there s any interest please let me know so I can plan ahead.

Thanks Ben...
 
No progress on the 3/8" scale model.  But hopefully this weekend.  There was another topic started elsewhere on the forum about interest in building models like those by Phillip Reed.  I always thought considering such sorcery was beyond comprehension.   But I must admit that anyone who has built Speedwell or is thinking about it,  probably has come across the photos of her as built by Phillip Reed.
 

 
It is just a superb model.  Its 1/16" scale. Madness indeed.   I thought building her at 1/4" scale like Greg was crazy.   But you always wonder if you can do something like that.   When I started on the 3/8" scale version I couldnt help myself. So I have been clandestine and also drafting plans for a mini Speedwell.   I am not crazy enough to build it at 1/16" scale like Mr.  Reed.   That model has a hull about 6" long.
 
But I did reduce my Speedwell drafts and framing plans to 25% of the the 3/8" scale version.   This makes a 3/32" scale Speedwell which is still absurd.  The hull is about 8".   I havent started cutting parts yet but I have been working on a fun side project.  Just to see how viable it is.   Keep in mind I dont have a 3d printed set of carvings.   Chris is going to try and print them at this tiny scale but I doubt it will be possible.  The carvings are tiny at 3/8" and reduced to this fun Phil Reed scale the figurehead is just 7/16" tall.
 
But this is what I have been playing around with....all parts including the figurehead are laser cut.  Most from Boxwood except the trailboard carvings which are laserboard.  You can see it in comparison to the regular sized model.  The plan in the back is also at 3/32"scale.  I am not sure I will continue but I may do so and Chris is going to run some tests on the 3d prints.  But the laser cut parts for the trailboard came out great with just the laser cutter.
 
The figurehead is laser cut in five layers...the first center layer is integrated into the stem.  Then you build up layers on either side to make the figure fully rounded.   You just round off the edges of each layer and do a bit a shaping.   It doesnt have to be precise.   At this scale all you need is a suggestion of detail.   The staff is a length of 30 gauge wire with some paper wings glued on top.  Really tiny paper wings.   
 
Anyway...if there is interest in such a thing let me know and I will continue working the small one as well.
 
Chuck
 
 
 




 

Yes there will be one more cant frame and then one small filler frame which will sit against the forward edge of the fashion piece.  Those should be easy enough to make and install.   The fashion pieces were quite easy as well and after tweaking the laser cut file for them they fit perfectly.   It was literally just a matter of sanding to the laser etched reference lines.  Then gluing them in.    I think the all of the remaining framing should be uneventful.   In fact it will be very similar to the way the square tuck was handled on Cheerful.   I am looking forward to planking very soon in the next chapter...
 
For the last cant frame and filler the most difficult thing will be sanding the correct angle onto the frame that sits against the fashion pieces.   But that angle is shown on the plans and can be transferred.   I am hoping to make to those over the next couple of days. That detail is shown below...cant frame 28 and the filler.
 

 
Chuck
 
 

Flying Shrouds completed…

Shrouds and stays completed.
She is ready for Sails…
Cheers 🍻 
 

Just a small update on the progress.  Getting into the stern framing now.   But first I needed to add 3 more aft cant frames under the quarter piece.
 
The cant frames are self explanatory and the same as the others.    Just sand off the char and add them.  But before I added them under the quarter piece I had to glue a small block on the inside of the quarter piece on both sides.   The block is laser cut and matches the shape of the bottom of the quarter piece.   This makes the area thicker which we will need when we fair the inboard side.   This will all be covered up on the inboard side so it wont show.  It will be planked over on the inboard side.
 

The small blocks will be faired along with the inboard frames when we do that much later.  But it is probably a good idea to start that now and do a little preliminary removal of material.  Its just easier to do at this point.   I did it after gluing them in but they could just as easily be shaped before you glue them in.
 

 
Now the stern framing starts.   First up are the fashion pieces.  These are very very complex.   This hull has a square tuck much like the Cheerful.   So to simplify things it will be made in two layers.   Only the first layer will be added at this time.  They are laser cut for you and 5/32" thick.   There are laser etched lines on both sides.   You can see how I faired the shape into it following the etched reference line.   The two ends also need to be tapered slightly.  I am talking very slight tapering to sit against the deadwood and under the wing transom.   The other side of the piece has those etched reference lines.  Just sand in the bevel to match on both ends.  Then give it a test fit.
 


 
I found it easier to test fit these while the hull was upside down.  They will need to be 1/8" away from the stern post as mentioned.   This was easy enough to do.   I just drew a reference line in pencil.  I used a 1/8" wide strip and held it against the stern post and just drew the line on the deadwood.
 

When test fitting these the bottom will sit along the curved edge on the deadwood.   Right along the bearding line.  Try and get a nice clean and tight fit there.   The top end will fit under the bottom of the wing transom.   The aft edge is flush with the same on the wing transom.  Then I faired them along with those last three cant frames I added.  Its all coming together now.  Just a bit more framing to go.   
 
Next up will be that last aft cant frame.  It actually sits against the fashion piece we just added.  This is why that needed to be added first.  Then a small cant filler will be added which essentially finishes up all the hull framing.   After that there are the stern frames and a few odds and ends to finish it all up.
 

 
 
 

The hull is now closed in and sanded ready for glassing, that might be an Easter project I think.
I thought I would put up some images of the Superstructure in its simplicity, yes this all there is to it minus skylights and hatches etc, but a far as structure goes its sooooo simple.
The below shoes the deck after forming the promenade but its not fitted forwa4rd as currently the wheelhouse unit is temporarily screwed down to keep the camber.
The forward section is in the foreground.

Main Stays installed…

Fixed that pesky Main Sheet…

Main Little Shrouds installed…

Main Halyard tied off with rope coil. 

Both Jib and Flying Jib Halyards rigged…
 
Note: Giant Shrouds removed as I am re-working the Spreaders to install the Upper Shroud. 
 
Cheers 🍻 
 

Should I use a lighter colour such as the one in this photo?

I finished the model base:

Now that the bulkheads have approximately the right shape, it is time to add the extra supports between them


Then the bulkheads and the supports are chamfered 

now my favourite part, fillerblocks

These will be installed in the hull part below the cannon deck

Number 1 in place 

Thanks for following

Hi Keith, I think the critique of experts is by far the most valuable resource and what better review group that all my MSW friends.
Gary, Eberhard, Andy, Gus - thank you all for your comments.
 
I not getting much modelling done at the moment. My son and daughter have added to my wife's list of home improvement jobs. Never mind. 
I am approaching the end of my build log photos but here is the next batch. Probably two more batches left after this lot.

Head to toe size comparison with the Winnie…
 
Greg you are a madman to build her at 1/4” scale.  You have my utmost respect at that size.  I couldnt even imagine it.
 

Yes it will be sold just like the Winnie in Chapter sets.   There are far too many parts to make a complete kit all at once.   The framing that you see below (once its completed)  will comprise the first two chapters.   Although its a lot of parts still and I may break that into three chapter sets.   
 
Then others will follow.  Keep in mind that because of its size and complexity this will not be a cheap project.   Its almost the exact same size as the Vanguard Indy kit.  She is a big girl.   But this has so many more parts so you can get an idea of where this project may end up cost-wise.  Figure in the range of "2 large".  I wont know how much until its all done so its impossible for me to put a number on it....but just figure what it costs for the Indy and add a little bit more.  I say this because I dont want anyone to start this project and be surprised by the cost as it continues.   
 
I am quite the terrible salesperson...but I am just being up front with you guys.  This isnt being made in China so its going to be expensive to manufacture.  Its not a project that can be rushed.   So buying chapter sets over time is the best way to go.
 

 
 

Thank You...
 
With the framing almost completed I was able to finalize all of the master carvings.  I did the final prep work for casting.   They will be sent off to be cast in a light tan like the Winnie carvings.   I hope they can get some sets to me soon.
 
Here is a look at the quarter badges.  They are quite small actually.  I will let my casting guys alter these because there are some areas that wont cast well.  For example under arms of those tiny reclining figures.   Those open areas will need to filled in order to cast these.