aydingocer
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Everything posted by aydingocer
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While they are drying, I prepare the other ones (that need no prior bending). I used my Dspiae sanding stick to remove laser char as good as I can, focusing mainly on more visible areas. I also use clamps to help strengthen against sanding stick strokes. Photo 294: Parts carefully removed from the wooden sheet. Photo 295: Here is a comparison, chars removed vs not removed. Photos 296-297: Use of clamps and sanding stick.
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Build day 34: 2hrs / Total 69 hours Today I spent roughly 2 hours on preparing rail patterns. These are among the most delicate and fragile parts. Photos 292-293: Sheer and Waist Rail patterns, removed, soaked (for 20 mins) and pegged on location, waiting to dry for at least 24 hours. As instructed, I used scrap planking strips to apply even pressure and prevent from being damaged.
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Photo 291: A waterline can be painted in any color, as long as it is black 😆. Well, I thought over this a lot and finally chose black instead of white. As I wrote earlier I like slightly visible planking patterns rather than a completely smooth surface, as it gives a more hand made like look. In my opinion black would suit better than white in this case. I am happy with the result.
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Several photos showing the progress of Quarter Gallery windows installation. Here there is quite a bit of rasping and bevelling of the parts. It mostly went smoothly but at some parts I used wood filler to achieve smooth transition. At this stage sanding is not complete yet. Most of this section will remain under paint and decoration. Photo 283: Bevelling of the roof part. Photos 284-285: Windows on both sides. Photo 286: Lower finishing patterns, made up of three parts, dry fitted. This will substantial amount of rasping and sanding to get to shape. Photo 287: Looks about like this after shaping Photos 288-290: Wood fillers to cover impurities. I will sand them more later.
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Build day 33: 3.5hrs / Total 67 hours Photo 282: Stern upper counter pattern (outer) and Stern fascia (outer)
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Photo 281: Paint dried, masking tapes removed. Looking good enough.
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Photo 280: Preparing the next parts while the paint is drying. Now coffee time!
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Photo 279: Cleaning the airbrush is crucial after each paint job
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Photos 277-278: Masking and painting with airbrush.
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Photos 274-276: Quarter gallery patterns bevelled as instructed and glued. First photo showing an example of before and after bevelling. Used another piece as spacer while the glue dries.
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Photos 272-273: Stern counter (inner) and Sten facia (inner). Yes, there is a visible gap but it will be hidden later after outer patterns and with trim strip.
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Build day 32: 2.5hrs / Total 63.5 hours Photos 270-271: Main Whale patterns dried nicely to shape. Now it is time to glue them and strakes above them in place.
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Build Day 31: 1hr / Total 62 hours After sanding, one layer of wood filling looks good enough to me. I prefer the wood plank patterns exposing a little under the paint than having a perfectly smooth painted hull. To me it gives a more handmade look than ready made hull. It is a question of taste. Photos 267-269: Main whale patterns soaked in hot water for 30mins and pinned temporarily in place to dry and get the shape. These are thicker than the parts we did the same procedure earlier (1mm vs 0.8mm) therefore 30 mins is the minimum you should keep them in water. It was enough to soak only the front section where it will bend. Now it will rest at least 24 hours.
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Photos 263-266: Preparing to smoothen below the waterline. I used diluted Liberon Natural Wood Filler applied with a brush. This is now the first round, waiting for the filler to dry before fine sanding. Waterline marker is from Hobbyzone.
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Build Day 30: 1,5 hr / Total 61,5 hours Photos 261-262 Removing jigs and nubs which are not needed anymore. Hull is now ready for sanding. Engravings covered with masking tape to prevent accidental sanding. By the way this brings me to step 185 in the instructions.
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BUILD DAYS 27-30: 14hrs / Total 60 hours Photo 260: 2nd planking is finished. Now the hull is ready for preparing to remove the jigs and its parts before sanding. I used UHU Hart glue and spots of super glue for securing quickly at the ends.
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BUILD DAY 26: 1 hour / Total 46 hours Photo 259: Continued planking with two rows of pre-cut pear planks and one row of pear strips.
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BUILD DAY 25: 1 hour / Total 45 hours ----- Photo 255-258: Aft Outer Planking Patterns (271, 273), Front lower Outer Planking Patterns (305, 307), Rear lower Outer Planking Patterns (306, 308) are also now glued in place, after soaking and bending where necessary.
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BUILD DAY 24: 0.5 hours / Total 44 hours ----- Photo 252-254: Fore outer planking patterns now properly dried, aligned and glued perfectly in place. I followed the recommendation in the instructions: applying diluted white glue on the hull.
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Photo 251: Fore outer planking patterns. Soaked in hot water and clamped in position, waiting to dry... this time completely, I promise 🤣!
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BUILD DAY 23: 1.5 hours / Total 43.5 hours Photos 247-248: The idea of these location pegs alone is enough reason to prefer this kit. Great help! Photos 249-250: This way you achieve the most precise alignment of outer Prow-, Keel- and Rudder outer patterns
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This I should try, indeed.
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That's most probably the case. It is the first time I am working with pear and I have to admit it was not perfectly dry. I have left my workshop room for the day now and I'll see tomorrow how much it shrank. Luckily after all it will stay under the upper counter so I am hoping there is room for correction.
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Jesus where did I go wrong? Here is a photo from another angle (mine is on the right). I was focusing on getting the top edge of the inner stern counter at the same height as the bottom of the stern timber slots and didn't really watch what's going on at the rudder post side (lower side). So, in yours it is about 2mm below the bottom of the timber slots, and therefore I raised it 2 mm making it at the same level as the bottom of the timber slots. But I can't explain why it it goes below the rudder post level on the other edge. Maybe I shall just trim the stern counter from the lower edge and make it level with the rudder post. It is very firmly glued in place now, I could do more harm trying to remove and reposition it. After that I could try to rectify the situation when installing the outer counter pattern.
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Photo 195-197: Inner stern counter in place, repositioned slightly higher than the photo in the manual as instructed. You see also prow-, keel- and rudder patterns installed.
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