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GrantGoodale

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  1. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to foxy in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set   
    Well progress has been slow with a wood ship taking over.
     
    But coming to the end with the davits now inplace thanks to Daniels replacement of lost etch parts.


    Namely the supports for the davits.


    Now made up it was to mount them.





    Also finished the rings for the jib sails.



    So its rigging the davits,placing the crew and making up the flag so its drooping.
    Then fix to the base and glass case.

    Not bad for over two years work.
     
    Frank. 
  2. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to keelhauled in CUTTY SARK by keelhauled - Mantua - kit bashed - First wooden ship build   
    Hi,
     
    Worked on the anchors.
    They came from the kit, but required quite a bit of grinding work (still under progress in the photos).  Also I had to plug and re-drill the shank for the anchor stocks - the opening was much too large.
     
    Here they are assembled
     

     
    And painted

  3. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Cathead in USRC Ranger 1819 by Cathead – FINISHED – Corel – Scale 1:64   
    Stage 3 continued
     
    Welcome to "How not to plank a hull", by Cathead. I foolishly decided to follow the instructions' recommendations and diagrams for planking the hull, and have now concluded that that was a bad decision. Among other things, they tell you not to start tapering planks at the stem until the 6th strake, which is definitely not the right approach. In attempting to do so, I ended up doing quite a lot of extreme edge-bending and shaping, which produced some planks far too crinkled and buckled for my liking. I should have followed more normal guidance for hull planking from the start, with a lot more tapering right from the beginning. Luckily, this is only the first planking, and I've learned quite a bit about how planks will and won't lie on this hull form, giving me confidence I can do a much better job on the second planking.
     
    The first two photos show it in a moderately positive light, hiding some of the worst of the work. You can see the uneven run of the planks and some buckling, but once it's filled and finish-sanded I expect it'll provide a sufficient surface for the second layer.
     


     
    Sticking with the positive thinking, the stern has been less troublesome so far. I cut out a smaller transom support that fits the hull, imitating where the horn timbers would support the shape of the transom. I planked around the edge of it as various resources have appeared to suggest I should do. When the second layer goes on, and I plank both sides of this support, I'll extend it farther out in a curve to match contemporary images. I'm also thinking of adding an outside structure in the shape of the horn timbers, like you see in the image of USRC Louisiana I linked to above.
     

     
    I'm happy with the run of the planks here overall, but it did take some modification from the kit. The last few frames are too large, guiding the planking away from the stern, forcing a sharp bend inward to meet the end of the stern. I carved and sanded these last few frames down significantly to achieve a smoother run, and I probably could have done even more. You'll see that I still had trouble getting a couple planks to fully lie against the stern, they pulled away slightly despite pre-forming and sanding. But this is way better than if I hadn't cut down the frames. Again, I think filling and sanding here will produce a good surface for the final planking.
     

     
    And here's the embarrassing part. That's some ugly work right there. For too long I stuck to the original plans, telling myself that if I just kept going it would work itself out. It didn't. Given that this will be hidden forever, I've decided to change course and just fill in the remainder with planks cut to fit, rather than bent to fit. It will look ridiculous and inaccurate, but as it'll be hidden by the second layer, it'll make the work go faster and more happily. I've learned the lesson I needed to, and don't need to beat it in any further.
     
    For the second layer, I'll lay out proper planking belts and be more attentive to shaping and tapering planks. If I still don't do a good enough job, I'll consider coppering the hull (as shown on Louisiana), which will cover 90% of the surface anyway on this low-slung ship.
     
    So other builders be warned, don't be like me and try to force your way through bad instructions. Just plank the thing following the better guidance available elsewhere. I'll update again when the first layer is done.
     
    Thanks for reading, and controlling your laughter!
  4. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Moonbug in Santa Maria by Moonbug - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Bashed   
    Wellp... 
     
    Got first place at the County Fair.    
     

     
    In all fairness (no pun intended), there weren't that many entries.  
     
     
    - Bug
  5. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC   
    The fore mast is quite intricate, and the Pontos masts are just magnificent and fit like a glove.
     
    I should be able to get a fair bit of rigging done before I plonk it on. There are lots of little bits I have prepared  for painting that will go on the support struts that are only a couple of mm each.


  6. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC   
    Moving along, I am trying to get as much prep done as possible before painting as it is more economical.
     
    The main mast, well, meet my nemesis!. If you've ever had that bit that you can't get right this is it, The beauty of brass and CA is when you get it wrong, you burn the CA off with a lighter and re start. The engine room vents at the rear of the structure are not referenced anywhere and have a single reference to covers in the AOTS only so I drilled them out and fabricated hatches. 
     
    There are ladders that run up the support struts but the boat boom's do not allow this in the kit.
     
    At least with this piece I can complete nearly all the rigging off kit after painting.



  7. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC   
    A small addition, the base of the foremast. Does not seem like much, but I have read on other builds people say this is fiddley, and it certainly is. The Pontos upgrade provides three brass rods which just do not like each other. My plan was to do the entire mast assembly off kit, but it is impossible as the angles of a tripod do not allow the think to go in past the boat deck. As such it has to be done on the ship itself, which means to get the correct measurements for all the other bits that will be attached have to be done on the model, increasing the risk.
     
    There are support struts, 2 engine room telegraphs, numerous belaying points, ladders, two boat booms and 2 semaphore brackets to be added yet.
     
    Strangely the Zvezda hit includes the support struts but not pontos, the boat booms are also missing and the 2 semaphores are also not mentioned which were all in place in 1907, no great task to build them, but Pontos has some amazing details and just forgets really obvious ones.

  8. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC   
    Now, the bridge. I know the photos show some paint missing but I intend to fix it up afterwards. The ships open bridge, I used bits of both Pontos and Flyhawk, plus North Star for the fittings as the resin binnacle and compass directors are second to none. It all went on fairly easily.
     
    The Compass platform just plonked on ad the Flyhawk stuff was a much better fit.
     
    A final addition was the Sephamores. No one has added these but it is referenced everywhere and a little bit of scratch building.  
     
    And finally for scale, you cannot drink coffee when doing this.
  9. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to GDM67 in HMS Naiad 1797 by GDM67 - 1:60 - using Ed Tosti Books   
    I am having trouble uploading today, so this weeks work will come in several installments...  I am also having difficulty doing a narrative under each photo,
     
    I am now all the way thru frame 4 as shown in the first photo.  The Keelson Knee is just shown fitted in place for now. 
     
    The third photo highlights frames 4 and 5.  Note the notching of the chock on frame 4 that still needs to take place. I forgot to do this at the bench...
     
    The top timber of frame 5 has a significant slant.  While this may look like an error, its actually to spec.  The slant allows room for a sweep port to be inserted.  There are many intentional irregularities with this ship that are historically accurate.  This is significant departure for me since I have built stylized models in the past that appeal to symmetry.  I now prefer the historically accurate models.  Interesting how our tastes and opinions on things evolve over time...
     
    The last photo should actually be the first photo.  the forward frames are just sitting in place, awaiting spacers, final fitting and glue up.
     
    The assembly line style of building the frames is certainly not for everyone, but it has greatly improved my efficiency and quality. 
     
    You will also note the cross spauls that have been reinstalled.  This is a must in order to keep the shape.
     
    As mentioned, I am bringing this ship to NRG in October (As well as my USB Eagle, also a scratch build in progress).  My goal with Naiad is to have the framing completed and faired, along with ribands, keelson, and chock bolts inserted. I estimate that will take me about 110 hours.
     
    Best, G
     
     







  10. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to xken in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8   
    The two long guns and carronades are finished, now I started adding all the eyebolts to the bulwarks for the cannons. The single eyebolts are easy but just a bunch of them. Then I saw the double eyebolt and thought I would share how I fabricated these using 28 gauge copper wire which is softer and more flexible than brass and once formed the shaft was soldered to join the it with the loops for strength.
     

     

     

     

     

     
    Test fit of soldered and cleaned eyebolt.

     
    Finished double eyebolt in place centered between carronades.

     
    Next to drill the hole locations for the single eyebolts adjacent to the lower gunport openings. 
  11. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to xken in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8   
    Happy Fourth of July to All!
     
    Back to ship pictures for skylight rail details. I formed a circle to size using 1/32" brass rod and then cut 3/32" long 1/16" tubes and fitted on the rail and fitted the circle ends within one tube and soldered. Then six 1/32" stanchions with mating flanges soldered in place. The deck flanges were cut and will be glued in place to conform to the deck crown once the deck is glued down to the hull. Here is a sequence of pictures. Pardon my misspelling of stanchions in photos. 
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    I decided to use a piece of stainless steel for the base plate; the painted brass one just did not look right. Now to add rails and cannon ball holders to hatch components and grates.
  12. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to xken in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8   
    Once the center planking was set I was checking spar deck pictures of the real ship and noticed that there was a trim perimeter frame between the decking and planksheer. Fortunately the center decking section allowed the cutting in of the stern, and bow portions once the sides were added. The framing was added with the decking in place with the perimeter framing being held tightly against the planksheer and then very carefully tack glued without gluing the frame to the planksheer. Decking was then removed, the framing securely glued and the rest of the planking added.
     

     

     

     

     
    Once the glue has set the planking will be sanded and the butt joints cut in with a sharp Xacto blade and black glue filled. Staining will then follow.
  13. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Jerry in BLUENOSE By Jerry - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    Hi Elijah..
    Many thanks for the visit and compliment.  I'll be finishing the deck after completing the waterways fill-ins.  This has proven to be a time consuming process as every opening is slightly different than each other.  I'm using some stripping left over from the HMS Victory kit which is more than wide enough, and as mentioned,  each piece needs to be custom fit.    here's what it looks like so far.
    Best,
    Jerry


  14. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24   
    Soon I believe, I will be able to begin the last carvings.








  15. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24   
    Thank you Carl,
     
    In the last 2 weeks, I did some research about straight edge razor and sharpening. The single most important thing I learned is that if sharpening is the first step; polishing is the final step to optimize the sharpening one notch over. By opposition to a scraper where the edge is sharpened perpendicular to the blade and the bur is left there .
     
    Stones are use to repair, sharpen and set the bevel which create the edge. They come in a variety of materials including diamond,  japanese waterstones, and ceramics. Grain varies from very coarse grain (100 micron), to a fine grain #100 (15 micron) factory edges on knives, to a near mirror polish #8000 waterstone (3 micron) to a mirror polish with diamond paste #60,000 (,5 micron) , 100,000 (,25 micron).
     
     One of the sharpest knives  available is a straight edge razor used by barber. King cutter would be one of the best kind. By example he uses watersones up to 8000 to complete the sharpening  and for the finish,  he uses a leather strop (horse leather is a very good choice), not intended to remove material but rather to accomplish a re-alignment of the indentations of the blade. Both sides of the blade are passed  successively left and right because it is important to have 2 similar sides.
     The strop can also be used for knives with 2  cutting side. Unfortunately the leather strop is not intended for carving knives. The rough sharpening can be done uo to a #8000 watersone, but the finishing is different. Polishing the edge will mean that the surface will slide in an easier way. To achieve a mirror finish we use a wheel made from cotton or felt. To optimize  the finish a green paste like the one from Lee Valley  can increase a mirror finish  up to ,5 micron.
     
    Here is an idea for a good combination for hand sharpening;
     Watersones in a pyramid of  #1000, #3000 and #8000 plus a truing stone  to have a perfect flat stone (waterstones are more tender than the standard grey stone we are use to see and also a true surface will give better results). You could go  up to 16,000 but the difference would not be much significant.  And for the finishing a felt wheel + green compound to get a mirror finish.






  16. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24   
    Actually I am gaging the height of the security fences, still too high.
    I can use the effect of lens compression as in the last pictures to see all the 3 rows of fences to appreciate their height and angle and then I will know where to compensate.








  17. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24   
    Druxey,
     
    there must be few components added since this picture!
     
    Also, I used more than these 1 X 5 you see on the picture


  18. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24   
    Rob, I think that it is difficult to understand; just at the right height. Few weeks back, I went to Ikea, they had a table with a handle to place it: just at the right height and it was really cheap to buy. It happens that I waste money to buy useless tool, but it also happens happens that I buy tools which are useful every day. A height adjustable table is 1 one these tool. Table height is rarely the perfect height height to work.
    The last 74 weighed around 120 pounds so the dentist chair is also very useful. I forgot, there is also another  tool that I like very much, a 360 degrees  graver vice, because there is not only the height but also the position to make the job easier.
     
    Here is my small parts  box and advancement for the fences.





  19. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Stevinne in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    So the build begins. This is the first time I've had to deal with a multi-part main frame. A little glue and some weights should do the trick.
    Had some help from my second mate tonight. A thunder storm was rumbling through, and she felt it important to be as close as possible to guard my feet.
     



  20. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Stevinne in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon   
    It's with a little trepidation that I start my first build log on MSW. The Roter Lowe is my third plank-on-bulkhead build, the first being Constructo's Enterprise, followed up by AL's Renard. It's by far the most complex build I've undertaken, and my first with multiple gun decks and decorative woodwork. In this kit, the decorations are a mix of inlaid wood and printed cardboard. Not sure how I feel about the cardboard, yet. The materials look nice and the instructions come on five dual-sided sheets of plans.
    I'm a bit concerned because the guns on the enclosed gun deck are to be mounted on carriages - I worry about them coming loose during the build and rattling around in the hull. I have to figure out some way to address that.
    I picked up the kit a couple of years ago when Model Expo was having a moving sale. 
    I'm a very slow builder, with lots of starts and stops, so be warned.
    All that being said, let's post some pictures.







  21. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Hennie in HMS Agamemnon 1781 by Hennie - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64   
    Thx Sjors,
     
    New rope looks beautifull.
    And a "small" update.
    I finished my second boat, the 32Ft Pinnace and I gave it a bit an impression of my own. Still toke me 8 days to build it. Two more boats to go.
    I still haven't received my order so I can fix the oars. I phoned the web shop. There answere: we are still working, but our supplier is on hollidays :huh:
    I will receive my order end next week :angry:
    Sme pictures:
     




  22. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line   
    Update....
     
     
    the fastening of the deck-edgerail works fine, its also quite riged afterwards. The wooden deck will end about 2 mm away from the rail edge, so that partialy the railing on the aft boatsdeck portion finds a good hold, and same time its a good waterlead all around the deck
     
    Nils
     

     
    preparing for the soldering work
     
     

     
    the rail must be kept down on the spacer tubes and fixed there during soldering
     
     

     
    the overstanding stanchions will be clipped off, before the deck goes on
     
     

     
    now the most tricky part is done (aft boatsdeck edge-rail)
     
     

     
     
  23. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to theoracle09 in San Francisco II by theoracle09 - Artesania Latina   
    Not a big update, but an update none-the-less. Completed the Main mast stay, and began the shrouds on the mizzen mast.
     

     
    After the main mast stay, I needed a way to gauge the distance between dead eyes for the shrouds. I saw my contour gauge laying by the side, with a single bent tine. That'll work.

     
    Shaped it to be 3.5 deadeyes long.

     
    After seizing the top of the first shrouds, I line up my dead eyes.

     
    And seize those too.

     
    Lanyard reaved through the dead eyes.

     
    Following same process, second one is complete. 

     
    Repeated on the port side. 

     
    And finally an overall shot.

     
    Thanks for looking! Until next time.
     
     
  24. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to theoracle09 in San Francisco II by theoracle09 - Artesania Latina   
    No problem Gif! Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUrRb66VSSE And I must say your San Juan is looking great! The darker stain on the railings and strakes is beautiful. Very well done!
     
    I don't have pictures of the process on shaping my masts, as I had already done that prior to boxing her up for a while. After much research I found a place in Australia that I can purchase an 8mm Mahogany dowel, so that's on its way. In the mean time, I've glued in the Main and Mizzen masts, and began the first bit of rigging. (The name escapes me, and my book is across the way...my cat won't get off me at the moment, ha!)
     
    Started seizing. Wasn't too bad to do, just time consuming.

     
    First side complete.

     
    Completed the longer side.

     
    And shorter side, attached to the main mast.

     
    And finally wove line to connect the two.

     
    I've ordered Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson, and will have that next week. I've read other build logs where they've said the rigging for this type of ship is completely wrong in the AL plans, so I want to do it the right way while following along with his book. If anyone has any other resources that I can look at to get the most accurate rigging plan for this ship, I'd much appreciate it! While I wait for the book and also a new dowel to arrive for my foremast, I'll be completing the mizzen and main shrouds and ratlines.
  25. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to John Maguire in REVENGE by John Maguire - Amati/Victory Models - build in the Cougar Mountain Shipyard   
    Thank you dear friends for the "Likes".
     
    A long day of planking. Slightly more than half the strakes are in place. A bit of a routine developed that got the ball rolling at a moderate rate but then slowed down as I entered the section of the stern that transitions between the straight up and down vertical part and the rounded portion.
     
    Again, many thanks to those of you who answered my questions and got me to a point where I could move ahead.
     

     
    Respectfully submitted,
    John Maguire
    Seattle
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