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tedrobinson2000

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Everything posted by tedrobinson2000

  1. Correction: The button reads "Enable Content"
  2. Dave, Look at the ribbon in yellow just above the "Edit Program" button. It essentially says that you can't edit the spreadsheet (yet). Hit the Enable Editing button to the right of the message, and you will be able to then use the spreadsheet. Regards, Ted
  3. Here are a couple of before and after pictures of the plated hull. The first was when I added the plates in October 2010, the second shot id how it looks today with natural aged patina.
  4. Hi Will, I did no aging or patina on my hull plates, they will just age nicely by themselves if you leave them alone. I glued mine on with (gasp!!) CA gel, using 3 or 4 small dabs/plate using a toothpick. I'm in the process of uploading a bunch of old photos of my Vic, I'll add some of the plating sometime soon.... take an occasional look at my log and you can look at the results and judge for yourself. One trick that I learned is to carefully mark the waterline before starting. Begin at the keel, working your way up to the WL. When you get to the waterline, overlap it with the
  5. The hinges were just painted. They get dinged up with handling and installing, so small touch-up with black Jotika paint after will make them look fine.
  6. Somewhere along the line one has to tackle the assembly and installation of the gunport lids. After they are painted, the hinges have to be added. For those ports shown in the open position, the hinges have to be bent to about 90 degrees. This can be tricky on these tiny photoetched parts. In my bag of tricks I had a Mission Models Etchmate 3C, a tool designed expressly for bending small photoetched brass parts. It is a little pricey at $60, but if you do a lot of this work it is worthwhile. I bought mine a decade or more ago, and a quick look online indicates that they are no longer availa
  7. Hi Dave, I am running Windows 10, and the downloaded spreadsheet shows up as an Excel file. When it is opened, it comes up as a protected file which can't be edited to input your particular data. At the top of the page is a button to Enable editing. Click on that, then hit the salmon "New Build" button to clear the spreadsheet of previous data, if any. Then enter your scale factor in the pink box at lower left, and then the green "enter Data" button to get started.
  8. Hi Will, I posted a reply on your build log explaining exactly how I did my planks. Hope it was clear; if not get back to me with any questions. Cannon barrels were simply well cleaned and spray painted with flat black Krylon. I probably overdid it in making the carriages with axel pins and quoin handles, since only a few of the finished guns will be visible in the final analysis. These closeup photos show all the flaws - dust, open wood grain etc. Could have done a better job! I'll be posting more pix on my build here in the next few days. As I said yesterday,
  9. Hi Will, Here's how I did it for my Victory: Cut planks to length, sandwich about 20 of them together between stiffening pieces and clamp together. Lightly spray paint edges and ends with flat black. Remove from stack and lightly sand edges and faces to remove overspray and to lighten the dark paint. I made a jig that holds the individual planks, and two sliding templates (one for the end pattern, and another for the middle pattern of trunnels). Use a small pencil to simulate the trunnels (I didn't want them too dark). After gluing in place, sometimes the planks
  10. Laying out upper gundeck kingplank, and then planking the UGD. All this will be hidden after the quarterdeck goes on.
  11. Doing some deck planking. Cut boards to length, sandwich about 20 of them between stiffeners and spray paint board edges & ends. LIght sanding afterwards cleans up any overspray and tones down the darkness. Jig to mark trunnels on boards; one for end pattern and another for those in the middle of the planks. Use a sharp pencil to make marks. then layout a 4 butt pattern.
  12. Thanks for looking, Kev. I've seen some of your work here on MSW and it's outstanding!. Your Victory is beautiful. My Vic looks a little worse for wear - unbelayed lines, loose gunport lids etc., but that is the reality of taking pix during the build! She almost looks post-Trafalgar! Will fix the gunport lids later, no use in knocking them off again after they're fixed. Maybe I'll post a series of photos showing how I made the sails - don't know exactly how or where to post. Guess I'll learn my way around the forum eventually.
  13. Hi Paul, Beautiful build! My guess for the lack of a rubbing paunch is that the mizzen is gaff-rigged. The crojack was not hoisted very often, and also the driver lashing on the lower mizzen mast may have been interfered with by a rubbing paunch. Best regards, Ted
  14. Hi. I just found the MSW rigging spreadsheet, and was delighted as I spent a lot of time developing a similar one for my 1;72 Victory. I just wanted to point out that there seem to be some errors in the calculations, so beware - check the math. I entered the data for Victory, and noticed that the ratline diameters given in the table are consistently wrong - they are often 30% larger in diameter that that mast's stay! Same goes for snaking. I tried it for several input parameters (scale, date of launch and rate), and it is consistently wrong. It seems to be a problem with original ropes o
  15. Hello all. I've been a member of this forum for many years, but have never posted a build log before. I'm a little late to the party here, as I started this build over 11 years ago. I actually took a few years off in the middle, and am now in the final laps of this journey. I had made two previous models, and this time I wanted one that had a lot of detail, and was authentic, so I decided on Caldercraft's Victory. It was, in retrospect, a good choice, because there are tons of sites and photos of the actual ship available on the net for research. At this point I have put in a li
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