qwerty2008

dont forget to remove the dummy end of the cannon when fitted in the ship, then when all the model is completely finished, glue the dummy end back on

Thanks everyone for your kind comments and the "likes."
 
@ Mark, This visit was quite emotional.  Many memories flooded back into my mind.  My father did give me a tour on the O 19 at the end of 1940.  With the photographs I have obtained of the O 19 build and now actually touching a real sub made these memories come to life.  My grandson?  He wants to become a van Warmerdam and plans to apply for a name change.
 
Well, I have resumed working on the deck frames.  They are still just pinned with one pin and loose.  I have now temporarily pinned a 1.5 X 6 mm slats to the top sides of the deck frames to check the alignment and form.  There are only a few minor adjustments to be made but overall she's taking shape.
When I am satisfied I'll cut the corners out of each frame on the top and bottom to glue 3 X 6 mm slats into these cutouts for support of the 1 mm plywood for the side plating and the deck plating.
 
When the O 19 was originally build the deck frames were attached to the pressure hull with steel angle clips welded to the skin plates. There was a slitted opening between the hull and the deck structure to allow the water to drain away when surfacing.  I don't have a clear picture from the original build but have attached a few that may give you an idea.
 

Side view of hull with the check strip pinned to the upper part of the deck frames.
 

Bow side view with the check strips pinned to the upper part of the deck frames.  The typical Dutch upward curved bow can be seen taking shape. 
 

Head-on bow view with the check strips pinned to the the upper part of the deck frames.
 

Hull with main ballast tank and mine tube compartments.  The deck frame clips are difficult to make out but are just above where the ballast tank frames are joined to the pressure hull.
 

This is a close-uo of one one of the pressure hull plates with ballast tank and deck frame clips attached.
 

Another close-up view of the pressure hull and main ballast tank frames.  The deck frame clips should be just above the ballast tank frame attach points.
 
Cheers,

Hi Paul,
 
Thanks for dropping in and your encouraging words, really appreciated.  Yes indeed, wood can give us some problems and I did encounter a little in the beginning.  But then again, I assume that paper, card and styrene can also pose a few problems.
I'm looking forward to your WW I German sub build, they were awesome.  
 
Okay, we are back home now since a week from our sojourn to Coraopolis, PA, a town west of Pittsburgh, PA to visit our daughter and be present at our grandson's High School graduation.
 
As I may have mentioned before, I planned to visit the USS Cod in Cleveland, Ohio.  That sub was the one that was called to assist the Dutch sub O 19 getting off Ladd Reef.  The attempt failed and the Cod took the O 19 crew on board and had to destroy my father's beloved O 19.  Remember that they were in enemy waters even though the war was winding down.  This event was in july 1945, thus just one month away from the end of hostilities.
Because the USS Cod has a close relationship with my father's boat I Just had to go and see and touch her.  So, I took my grandson Troy with me, he too wanted to see the sub.  The curator, Paul Farace, promised us a special guided tour, which he did.
 
I mentioned a few of the things my father was involved with with the build of the O 19 and some of the escapades during his early years with the KM (Royal Navy).  Like when my grandson saw the torpedo tubes it reminded him of the story I told him about his great grandfather going out of his sub when she got tangled up in fishing nets when submerged.  Yup, he was also a trained Navy diver and he thought nothing of it to don the "third lung" and go outside.  He went through the stern tube and cut the boat loose and freed the props.  Then got back inside.  This was before he got married to my mother when he was a "wild and crazy guy," to coin a phrase.  There is nothing like a visual image to drive a point home.  Needles to say our grandson is duly impressed with his great grandfather.
 

This is the URL with the true story of the rescue attempt by the USS Cod.  Copy and paste the URL in your web browser and watch the sad end of the proud O 19.
 
I hope you wont mind a few pics of the Cod with a few items the crew managed to take off the O 19 before destroying her. 
 

This is a panoramic shot my grandson Troy made on his dangfangeled new Samsung Galaxy 3 of the USS Cod in Cleveland Ohio.
 

This is a picture of the bow tubes in the USS Cod.  Now my grandson could visualize his great grandfather going outside his "netted" submarine.  A story come alive, somewhat.
 

This is your's truly, the Flying Dutchman, in the engine room aboard the USS Cod.  These diesels still run and purr like kittens!  No, they didn't fire them up for us.  They have some water in the case oil, which is not too good for the bearings.  However, once most of the water is sucked out then the engines should be run and brought up to temperature.  This will allow the water to evaporate and breath out of the engines.  That's what we do with aircraft engines too.
 

This is the pendant from the O 19 and given to the crew of the USS Cod.  This pendant was made by one of the O 19 crew members.
 

This is the brass plaque attached to one of the O 19's bulkheads after her refurbish by the Scottish Dockyard.  After the Dutch submarine supply ship was destroyed by the Japanese with all the spare parts and etc., all the Dutch subs had to be refitted to English standards so they could continue with their battle against the enemy.  The so called deck torpedo launcher was also removed but they did not reinstall the doors.  
 

Traditionally the conning tower shows the ship's decorations and enemy ships sunk.  You'l notice a tipped cocktail glass with the letters O 19 below it.  This is to commemorate the party the crew of the O 19 gave to the crew of the USS Cod for their rescue.  This was apparently the mother of all parties in the annals of naval warfare!  Both boats served the allied effort with honor and distinction. 
 
Cheers.

Good morning all,
 
Hello Popeye and Michael, Many thanks for looking in and for your kind compliments.
 
Today, I am going to post the last pictures related to the construction of the search light installation, as it is now awaiting the right moment for the finishing stages.
 
Here goes:
 
 
An overall view showing the detail and the bolt heads.

 
A front view.

 
A view from the side.

 
A view from the other side.

 
A close up view.

 
An elevational view,  displaying all the other parts, to be fixed in place during the finishing process.

 
Now some pictures related to the last range finder making part of the tower. This is a 2 meter long range finder, and is situated just below the Admiral's bridge.
 
The platform with it's sheet steel parapet wall.

 
A view from the under side showing all support struts.

 
The armoured base housing, on which the range finder sits.

 
Starting off with the housing.

 
Applying filler to create the taper edge..

 
The range finder housing well under way.

 
The assembly ready for the next stage - detailing.

 
A side view.

 
A close up view.

 
 
shall be posting more pictures next week.
 
 

B.E. Thanks for stopping by glad you like the boat.
 
Bob, the thought of taking down the mast when I want to go sailing would be more work than on the Maria.
 
Mark, the leather work is challenging to say the least.
 
Michael

Brian, thanks for stopping by, I am sure that I would not have the patience to make something with more than one mast.
 
Druxey the short answer is no, that said I am a glutton for punishment when it comes to solving a problem, it is why I have such a large scrap box(es).
 
Made me laugh Popeye.
 
In between some of the myriad projects that I seem to have on the go I found a frame with some wheels at the dump, it is from a child's bicycle carriage, and after straightening it up and pumping up the tires I measured it up and I have the foundation for the transport trolley. the wheels are 15 1/2 inches in diameter. I will make it so that there is some springing on the undercarriage so that the rather rough road gets compensated for.
 

 
It will need a few bits of wood added and will need some mudguards, but I have a few bikes that I have collected from the same place so it will be great to get the trolley sorted now that I have the basic frame.
 
Michael

On this day, two hundred years ago, HMS Terror was launched in Topsham, Devon. The Terror was originally built as a bomb vessel and saw noteworthy action during the War of 1812. However, her destiny lay in exploring the ice pack at both ends of the earth, and she was arguably the most successful polar vessel ever constructed by the Royal Navy.
 
HMS Terror during her passage home, 1837 © National Maritime Museum Collections
 
With their exceptionally strong frames, bluff bows, shallow draft, and spacious holds, bomb ships were ideal vessels for conversion to polar exploration. Nearly wrecked several times, the diminutive, but sturdy, Terror withstood more punishment from the natural environment than any Navy vessel of the era. When she was finally abandoned in 1848, after three years locked in grinding pack ice (during some of the worst Arctic winters on record), evidence suggests she was still afloat. Her wreck, and that of her sister ship, HMS Erebus, has never been found. The story surrounding their abandonment remains one of the world’s great historical mysteries.
 
This log will document my project to scratch build an accurate 1:48th scale plank on bulkhead model of HMS Terror, as fitted for her final 1845 voyage. To my knowledge, no complete models, or plans, exist of the Terror as fitted in 1845; this log will document the process of creating both accurate plans and an accurate scale model. As you will see, both require detailed historical research.
 
Below are some images of a (rather crude) paper and card mock-up of the bulkhead arrangement I’ve created as a proof for an early draft of my plans. I expect it will take at least two years to build the model – maybe more.
 

 

 
http://buildingterror.blogspot.ca/

Thanks Bob, Daniel and Mark!
 
Daniel that was a great tip on the watch parts. I got a 20 gram bag for £5 off eBay with literally thousands of tiny engineered pieces. Lots of fun sorting them into types!
 
Deck furnishing now done
 
Matt
 
 

After looking at pictures of blocks online I decided that my problem was that the grooves I cut into the block were at the wrong angles so I sanded then deeper and retried it worked this time thou the spanish windlass still did get in the way it wasn't as bad this time and I was able to get it really tight thank you so much for the information.




 
Lextin.

I made the grommet and served the eye then I tried how you said to tighten it for the seizing but the spanish windlass kept breaking and when I made it strong enough not to break it was too big and got in the way of the seizing how should I proceed?.


 
Thank you.
 
Lextin

I am making a block and am wondering how would the rope that wraps around the block be made for a full size block? would the whole rope be served or just the eye? how is the rope spliced on the bottom? would there be a thimble in the eye or not?
It is a single block that is 5 inches tall with a 3 inch diameter sheave wheel.
Also, its a bit late now but did I make the right choice in making this block from hardwood or were real blocks made from a softwood like pine?

After looking at pictures of blocks online I decided that my problem was that the grooves I cut into the block were at the wrong angles so I sanded then deeper and retried it worked this time thou the spanish windlass still did get in the way it wasn't as bad this time and I was able to get it really tight thank you so much for the information.




 
Lextin.

Andy, thanks I did a little experiment this evening.
 
Russ I am going to use Lignum Vitae parrel beads on a line.
 
The experiment looks promising, I think that i prefer the light colour leather better. it was from an old wallet.
 

 
The light leather was sewn in situ but I used way too heavy a thread, the dark leather from a ladies leather dress (Great source for very fine thin leather) I picked up at a second hand store some time ago for $10 to make some leather seats for a model coach, was sewn off the wood like a finger for a glove.
 
If I decide to add the leather I might glue it on first then I can create a neat seam. and also add some tacks along the side of the spar.
 
Michael

Mark that might be true but I am sure that there are lots of details that you builders of fully rigged ships add that I would not.
 
John thanks for that.
 
Russ thanks, your own restoration work and attention to detail and research have given me inspiration.
 
Druxey you are absolutely right the hard knocks of being a working boat will no doubt take its toll.
 
 
Andy Busted! I told Gulliver it would be found out one day.
 
Greg thank you.
The proof will be in the pudding as they say.
 
 
Jaerschen, thanks Like everyone here I am always looking to do a better job on the next piece.
 
 
Jay and Sherry thanks you for those kind words.
 
Last night and today I did a little bit of woodwork on the gaff.
 
I had already planed up the spar and so the jaws were cut out of a piece of Apple wood that I have had kicking around for a while now. I started to fret it out with the coping saw and discovered that it was tougher than cutting brass, so I dragged out the scroll saw(I don't really like using it )and put in a brand new blade and still struggled with the apple.
 
Then a lot of work with a coarse sanding stick to rough shape them. then planed a couple of flats on the sides of the spar and glued on the apple rough shapes.
 

 
After the jaws had glued overnight I set about doing the final shaping, using some small carving chisels and the #11 blade
 

 
A couple of hours later I did some final sanding and then a good rub down with some fine steel wool, and a coat of golden oak polyurethane.
 

 

 

 
Next I need to cut the slot for the Tumbler and fit the throat halliard attachment and the parrel beads. I will use Lignum vitae for the beads, I also need to add the through bolts for securing the jaws to the spar..  I am torn whether to add the leather over the jaws because I like the look of the apple. But some fine leather stitched might look pretty as well.
 
Perhaps I will do an experiment with some leather on a bit of scrap and see how it looks.
 
Michael 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi guys
 
I thought I would have a short diversion and build a ship for an interesting bottle I found. Actually it is a vase with a narrow neck. Quite thick glass but optically clear
 
I love the lines of Britannia and getting the sails right will be key to the build!
 

Deck is now laid and the first coat of primer on the hull. The bulwarks should hide the small gap at the edge if the deck. The hull will be black above the waterline and red below. The difficult bit will be getting the line right
 

Sven - Great work!  The port holes are perfect.  
 
As far as the ships wheel you could try some watch gears.  I picked up a bunch from a jewelry shop for just a few dollars.  This link has a good example of one.  
 
http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty/220-alvey-greg-hms-bounty-building-log 

Thanks again for the comments fellas!
Been a bit slow on the finishing of the hull. As expected I needed several goes at the waterline and had to respray a few times!
Now back on track with some brass detailing added to the hull. The portholes are .7 mm holes with cut sections of brass tube inlaid. I am also experimenting with the ship's wheel.
 
Matt
 

Now the other rail is complete.  It's been a productive last couple days.  I still have some hull work to do namely the deck stanchions and cat heads.  I think i'll start on the masts as well though.  
 

 

 

Well I was able to get one of the rails done.  I was hoping to have both done but apparently one year olds don't need sleep.  All well there's always another time for ships.  Here's my progress.  
 

 

 

 
Actually I think the rails really accent the windows.  
 
 
 

Bob, I am really looking forward to getting her wet.
 
I did manage to do a little work yesterday and today, I worked on the Jib stay, I might just sew this into the sail and have it fly and not hank it to a stay
 

 
I made a thimble for the 1/16th cable first I filed a couple of grooves at each end I annealed the centre part only and shaped the thimble using the same tools and methods as before
 

 

 
At the moment it is attached to the bowsprit end cap but it will be attached to a traveler on the bowsprit, so that it can be hauled it to change sheets.
 

 
Started working on the Gaff, by planing down a square of spruce to a tapered round section
 

 
This evening I spent a couple of hours making one of the blocks for the gaff up-haul
 

 
Michael

This book by the above named author is a book which should interest many of our scale model RC builders.  Although I have yet to read it in it's entirety, my scan through the chapters of this book has definitely made me glad to have it.  It covers all configurations of sail types, square, or fore aft. 
 
There are diagrams of servo-sail control in this book.
 
It covers various types of keels, and ballast, as well as construction techniques. 
 
It is not just about racing boats.  It is about scale RC model sailing boats.  In the very first chapter it tells much to help one understand how the lines of the hull and the lines of the sail can be used to calculate the ultimate stability of a model boat.  It gives nomenclature, centers of hull bouyancy, centers of sail, and relative wind speeds and how they can be used.  This I did know existed, but this explains it.  It could be useful material to develop reefing for various wind conditions. 
 
It gives diagrams of how to achieve sail control for all sorts of square, bermuda rigged sails, Jib sail rigging for RC  and a lot more.  There is a pretty good glossary, listings of source information, types of rigs in sail boats, and much more that ought to be of interest to RC sailing enthusiasts, as well as RC Scale Modelers who just want to be able to sail their craft.  It covers sailing techniques, and a variety of sail control systems. 
 
I got the book through Amazon.com and my used book only cost about $8+ and shipping, which from the secondary shipper was only $3.99.  It was copyrighted in 1999 by the author. 
 
I believe that I am seeing what I am going to need to make a useful setup for my RC Sailboat.  I thought many of you may be interested in checking it out.  
 
Walter Biles

Uncleb and qwerty2008, 
 
I may have found a book that may help all of us RC Sailors get the information they have been seeking. 
 
"An Introduction to Radio Controlled SCALE SAILING MODELS"  BY Phillip Vaughan Williams. 
 
I did a brief review on it in this section
 
There are diagrams of servo-sail control in this book.
 
Walter Biles

Hoi Freek,
 
The plan for the "con" (conning tower) is to build that separate and place it on top of the deck structure.  The place for the deck tubes is already marked out on the hull and will be an open space between two bulkhead type frames.  The doors will be shown open with the tubes turned on an angle, not quite looking outside the boot.  That section will get some extra reinforcing for the deck itself.
Fred also send be a few pics of these tubes he made, good enough as a guide and with the photos i have from the build at Wilton Fyenoord I should be able to come up with a believable set.
Also the place for the dingy or jol as Fred calls it, will be a small open space behind the con with the required deck plates.  The idea is to have that open with the cover plates loose and on deck and the dingy in a sling.
The same plan for one of the torpedoes being loaded into the forward torpedo room and one mine being loaded.
It''l be busy boat all right.
 
I just send a message to Gino den Ridder that my model will have the teak deck slats because I want to show my model as my father knew her at the launch back in 1939 and when he sailed on her till 1941.
 
Right now I'm fine tuning all the deck bulkhead frames, have only done four, it's slow going because there are other things I need to do around the house and also do some work on the VOC ship.
 
Yes, I have seen Fred's models, very impressive and will visit his site more often.  I even flew over his house via Google Earth, nice little town he lives in.  A shame that he doing away with all the drawings he has.  I suggested to store them on a DVD if possible.  They are difficult to come buy
 
Thanks for checking in and thinking of me and your suggestions and reminders, really appreciated!
 
Cheers,

At least you gave it a try.  Most of the guys in my club look at what I do and say. "Better you than me."  
 
Well I got the cannons done and I still had  bit of sanity left so I added some hatches and a capstan.  Now that my sanity is totally shot I'll call it a day.