Remcohe

I asked Gwen to scrutinize the railings after I stained the corner posts and put some poly on them.  She only found some fault with one of the middle stanchions not having the same width as the rest and the corner post is a little out of plumb.  She measured a few items and found that it was acceptable to her and not worth the effort to rip them off the deck and remake them.
So then, for now I'll leave them alone and continue with the cannon tackle gear.  That'll keep me occupied for some time putting the straps on the pulley blocks with their hardware hardware.  64 pulley blocks!
 
There are plenty other things to do to break the monotony.
 
This is what it looks like as of this afternoon.
 

The right arrow is pointing to the corner post that's not quite plumb to the deck.  I'll rework that one.  The left arrow is pointing to a stanchion that's also not quite plumb but that one is not cemented to the deck - yet.  Gwen said it was also thinner then the rest.  This might also be an optical illusion due to the light and shadow playing tricks.  As far as i am concerned I leave that one alone but cement it to the deck.  I little heavy CA works wonders,  
 
Cheers,

Finished the transom wings. It is an interesting area of the hull, a lot of fine tuning and shaping
Left the wings slightly oversized and with rough corners (too square), will properly shape them while fairing the hull. 
As usual, ignore the right side of the photo - it will be fully planked, so it is less accurate
 

 

 
Now starting the gunports.

Step by step................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi there,
Mark, Ferit, Giampiero, Jesse, and all other
thanks for your kind words and likes.

Here's a little update ...
 

 

 
Note the feed troughs in the picture:

 

 

Thanks for the input on stain matching George.  Yeah, I was contemplation doing that but I wasn't about to go out and buy another can of stain slightly darker then the "matching" cherry stain I have.  I figured that with the door on it'll be less visible.  However, I'll certainly look into it at a later date when I start cleaning up and "patching" a few nicks and scratches.  
 
Thank you Lawrence and Anthony for your very nice comments.  And also my thanks to all who clicked the like button.  It's all appreciated.
 
A few things got in the way of ship building but managed a few hours anyway.  Now that the gunport lids are done on both sides I can spend some time on other items on the hull.  As stated a few posts ago I am working on the small railings between the stairs and the main mast.  I made all the parts and pieces, drilled the holes for the reinforcing pins and made the pins.  I am now ready to cement it all together and place them on the upper deck where they belong.  Next will be the anchor cable capstan and rig the cannons.  That should kinda complete all the deck stuff, except for the ship's boat.  The thoughts are also on the many carvings yet to be done.
 
Here are a few pics of the railing pieces.
 

This shows all the pieces for the railing.  I made the reinforcing pins from bamboo skewers, the thinnest ones for the inner stanchions are 0.3 mm thick and the pins for the outside stanchions are slightly larger to 0.4 mm.  These will also have brass pins to support them to the deck.
 

This shows where the railings will go.  Having seen the form of the cap in the pic above they'll go where the rounded part is on the upper deck.  With the camera lens this close the pic is slightly distorted and the mast is not yet permanently glued in place.  I still need some access below the deck.
 
Cheers, 

Thanks to everyone who clicked the like button and to those who commented, it's all very much appreciated.
 
@ George:  Yup, having problems and screwing up is the nature of this hobby.  No matter how careful we try to be be there are bound to be problems that we have to deal with.  But on the other hand it sharpens our skills.
 
@ Captain Steve:  See comment above 
 
@ JesseLee :  The problem was unforeseen.  Remaking the hinges with the smaller pieces of brass tubing was rather simple, it was the problem with the cement not wanting to stick to the brass.  No matter what I tried from cleaning, sanding, a mild acid bath, nothing seemed to work.  
 
It's now a few days after my last post and I managed to install a new piece of planking in the cut I had to make.  I used the same kind of wood but it does'n match too well.  I put some wood stain on it to darken it some but it still shows.  I'm figuring that once de lid is put on most of it won't be visible.
 
On this particular day I quit work on the model to take care of other business.  So, just one pic of how the repair looks like before the gunport lid goes on.
 

 
Cheers

Adding the filler pieces. In hindsight it would have been easier to do this during the framing.

Everything has been said, still I would like to compliment you for an amazing capstan.
 
Remco

Everything has been said, still I would like to compliment you for an amazing capstan.
 
Remco

Everything has been said, still I would like to compliment you for an amazing capstan.
 
Remco

Another photos:
 
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to everyone for the compliments
 
more photos of Fleuron
 
                              follow other photos

Everything has been said, still I would like to compliment you for an amazing capstan.
 
Remco

CAPTAIN PHILLIPS’ PATENT CAPSTAN
 
To this point, my build log has included detailed notes about my research into Franklin's ships, and is largely a mirror of my blog, Building HMS Terror. While I know some followers have enjoyed my research notes (thanks for all the kind words of encouragement), others find them tedious, and recreating them here every time I finish a part has become quite time consuming. 
 
 
For the remainder of my build log, I've decided to do something a little different, and keep this primarily as a photo essay of my build. I'll continue to post research notes, but those will only appear on my blog. This change will also allow me to post a few more photos here, for those who want to see more wood and metal. 
 
 
So, with that formality out of the way, here is my attempt to build plans and a model of an 1839 era improved capstan. For those interested in the historical research I conducted, please consult my blog!
 
 

An 1839 era Phillips, capstan, as I believe it may have been 
configured for use on HMS Erebus and Terror.
 

Cutting the capstan components on an Epilogue laser cutter. 
 

The completed pieces. 
 

Vellum was added to enhance the joints of the capstan.
 

The assembled capstan before sanding. 
 

Sanded to shape. 
 

Drilling the bolt locations. 
 

The completed drumhead. Some Phillips' capstan models 
show lined sockets, so I added boxwood liners. 
I admit that it was primarily an aesthetic choice. 
 

I cut the drumhead plate from an unused pipe fitting which I flared to the right size. 
 

I filed a lip into the plate by hand. 
 

I cut the pawl rim (ring) out of brass plate using a jeweler's coping saw.
 

I filed each stop by hand, after carefully scoring the brass
 

The pawl rims were each made from pipe fittings flared to the precise diameter. 
 

The pawl rim prior to soldering and sanding. 
 

The piece following soldering. I used  copper solder for the first
time on this piece - despite being very dirty, it worked well. 
 

To maintain the proper curvature, I cut the pawls from a copper fitting. 
 

The pawls cut roughly to length. 
 

Bolt holes were drilled before shaping. 
 

Each pawl was filed and shaped by hand. 
 

The completed pawl rim (ring) and pawls.
Two traits unique to Phillips' capstans can 
be seen here. First, the pawl rim was bolted through
each stop, rather than in the spaces.
Second, Phillips' capstans had between six and 
eight pawls, while earlier models typically had four. 
 

The pawlhead. 
 

The completed pawlhead with the top plate soldered in place.
Contemporary models show that the pawlheads on 
Phillips' capstans were made entirely of iron. 
 

Dry fitting the metal pieces. The pawls need some thinning here. 
 

Pieces prior to finishing and assembly. 
 

Blackening the metal parts. 
 

The metal pieces after blackening, buffing, and sealing 
(I use Krylon matte coat as a sealer). 
 

The completed capstan. The wooden pieces have been
treated with Minwax wipe-on poly. 
 
Detail of the pawl rim and pawls. 
 

The drumhead (the drop pins indicate it is in direct-drive mode).
 

Detail of the lower drop pins and drumhead plate (I couldn't find scale
chain small enough to model that feature). 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects his capstan, recalling his good times with  Parry. 

Thank you,   that comments are nice and motivating  
For the French corvette I had the gratings already made.
But because the holes were too big, I decided to make them new.
 

 

 
Here is a comparison between the old and the new.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slowly progressing.
 
Some special knees half way down the hull
 

 
And the progress to date
 

 
The pump well I had made years ago got a bit beaten up in storage. As I also was not very happy with some of the dimension of the stock I used I decided to make a new one. 
 

 
I made a jig to make accurate cuts for the dado's on the stanchions, it's hard to see but at the far side where the blade cuts is a thin strip of wood the width of the blade to mak each cut at the same distance.
 

 
The finished stanchions, the vertical dado's were milled.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

Slowly progressing.
 
Some special knees half way down the hull
 

 
And the progress to date
 

 
The pump well I had made years ago got a bit beaten up in storage. As I also was not very happy with some of the dimension of the stock I used I decided to make a new one. 
 

 
I made a jig to make accurate cuts for the dado's on the stanchions, it's hard to see but at the far side where the blade cuts is a thin strip of wood the width of the blade to mak each cut at the same distance.
 

 
The finished stanchions, the vertical dado's were milled.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

Congratulations Mike. 
 
Remco

Congratulations Mike. 
 
Remco

Congratulations Mike. 
 
Remco

Congratulations Mike. 
 
Remco