Erik W

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

Let me help clear the fog of confusion for you Vince, at least from the perspective of one kit enhancer.
 
I simply enjoy taking a kit and making it better. Kit costs are not an issue for me and I derive all the modelling satisfaction I require from what I do.
 
Each to their own.
 
B.E.

Ed,
 
Great.  I look forward to you progressing onto the rigging phase.  The physical size of these ships is impressive when compared to the 18th century British warships I'm more familiar with.  Your 1/96 scale build is a good size model in it's own right!
 
Erik

Ed,
 
I've been following this build closely, and reading through both of your Young American build logs.  You're doing superb work.  It's a testament to your enthusiasm for this project, your writing style, and you photographing every step, that someone like me, who always was interested exclusively in naval subjects, now has an interest in clipper ships! 
 
Do you plan on rigging both of these?
 
Erik

Ed,
 
Great.  I look forward to you progressing onto the rigging phase.  The physical size of these ships is impressive when compared to the 18th century British warships I'm more familiar with.  Your 1/96 scale build is a good size model in it's own right!
 
Erik

Thank you Erik,
 
I am delighted if you have become a convert.  Clipper ships are good, especially the many lesser known American greats.  I too like naval subjects, but he world has plenty of model warships - including two from me.
 
I plan to rig the 1:72 version and that will be the subject of Volume II of the book.  However the rigging information in the book will cover both scales.  The 1:96 POB model was done as a demo model for Volume I of the book and is finished as far as planned.  The build log on that will be winding up with the next post or so.The design/drafting work for the rigging is well along, but that work cannot really start until I complete the deck "furniture."
 
Ed

Ed,
 
I've been following this build closely, and reading through both of your Young American build logs.  You're doing superb work.  It's a testament to your enthusiasm for this project, your writing style, and you photographing every step, that someone like me, who always was interested exclusively in naval subjects, now has an interest in clipper ships! 
 
Do you plan on rigging both of these?
 
Erik

Ed,
 
I've been following this build closely, and reading through both of your Young American build logs.  You're doing superb work.  It's a testament to your enthusiasm for this project, your writing style, and you photographing every step, that someone like me, who always was interested exclusively in naval subjects, now has an interest in clipper ships! 
 
Do you plan on rigging both of these?
 
Erik

More work on the axletrees.  The axles are not supposed to be centered in the blocks.  Pretty small, but everything was done on the thickness sander, table saw and the little notches for the brackets with a knife (needs cleaning up).  Looks pretty good 'til you take a picture with the marco lens.
Maury
 

A few touch ups, a final coat of finish on the stb. side frames and she's done.  I'm going to make the cannon carriages just for practice.  If anyone notices any things that need attention, please chime in.  Thanks for all the likes and comments; especially the ones that pointed out items that could be improved.  My skill level has advanced significantly by doing this project.  Special thanks to David an Greg.
Maury
 

Hello Greg, the scale is 1:48
 

 
Well the pictures above represent more or less the actual status, meanwile shrouds and stays have partly been rigged.
 

 
It all started with a quite conventional framework from plywood. The depicted laser measurement of the completed hull was just a joke, but it turned out quite helpful to fix the waterline...
 

instead of clumpsy carvings I invented a more "impressionist" way of applying plausible looking, but rather indefinite details, using wood putty and photo etched oakleafs. The whole area is painted anyway.
 

 

 
Miss "Unité", the figurehead was created from a mixture of materials, using plastic bodyparts, copper and putty. She tured out to have a (late) 19th century look rather than representing the 18th but frankly, I like her
 

 
Hendrik

Hello,
thanks for your interest, for the comments and the likes!
The second frame work for a cutter is completed.

 

Here is a size comparison of all previous boats for the French corvette.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 132 – Forward Lockers
 
There were two forward lockers that abutted the forecastle breast beam and the bulwarks at the side.  The enclosure on the port side was evidently (also?) used as a toilet.  These were undoubtedly used to stow gear that needed more protection than that afforded under the open forecastle.
 
With the windlass permanently installed, these enclosures could be constructed and the ladder ways between them and the windlass also installed.  In the first picture a panel of siding has been edge glued and is being fitted between the rails of the port bulwark.
 

 
 
After fitting, the panel would be cut off square to size.  These would most likely have been made using tongued-and-grooved planks maybe 2½” thick.  To accentuate the plank joints, the edges were rounded before edge gluing – as was done for all the other deck structures.
 
The next picture shows some pieces in assembly.
 
 

 
Although the workshop is in the basement, I get very bright sunlight through the windows this time of year – hence some overexposure in some of the pics.  In the next picture the end walls have been fitted and the fore-and-aft wall with the door is being test fit.
 

 
In the next picture the wall has been installed, the roof has been planked and is being smoothed out.
 

 
The flat faced curved riffler is being used for this.  Note that door hardware was installed prior to setting the wall.  In the next picture the edges of the roof planks are being pared flush with the chisel.
 

 
The next picture shows both enclosures installed.
 

 
The ladder way on the starboard side is also installed and the glue on some decking for the port ladder is drying.  In the last picture the second ladder way has been installed and roof planking on both enclosures painted.
 

 
 
 
Ed

Elegant as well as useful!

Hi
 
While still patiently waiting for our postal service to deliver my orders from Chuck I decided to start making some of the tools that I might need in the future of this build
 
The first one is a rope hook to be used when rigging. It was made using 5" needle and a custom made handle.
The handle was made from some nicely spalted dowel, got no idea what tipe of wood it is.
The needle is epoxied into a hole drilled an inch deep with a #61 drill.

 
 
Because of the damage to my thumb (the ligament was torn out in a motorcycle accident and I have nearly no movement in my thumb) I had to make the handle just.. so.. so that it would be easy for me to use it.



 
 
Finally the eye was cut open with an abrasive disc in the dremmel and the sharp edges was softened with some emery paper.

 
 
The next tool to be made will be a very sharp awl, again from a 2" needle and a custom handle.
 
Cheers till next time
 
Deon

Humble beginnings.  I glued the two halves of the false keel together.  The plywood is perfectly flat and straight, so the false keel is absolutely straight.  I added some scrap strip wood for reinforcement along the joint.  I then glued on the 1/8" x 1/16" rabbet strip along the length of the bottom.  I drew the bearding line on the starboard side of the false keel to match the line on the port side.  I'll tweak it a bit before I start removing material.  I also marked each slot, both sides, where the number/lettered bulkheads will go.
 
I threw in a penny and pencil to give an indication of size.

 

 
Erik

Welcome to my Cheerful build! Little did I know when I bought a Model Shipways longboat kit last summer that I’d get bitten by the ship building bug so seriously. I finished my longboat a couple of weeks ago (see here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10743-18th-century-longboat-by-erik-w-–-model-shipways-–-scale-148-first-wooden-ship-build-finished/?p=374717). I quickly realized that I missed putting time in daily working with my hands and building something. Aside from a Dremel, I currently don’t own any power tools suitable for modeling. So, with what Chuck offers for the Cheerful, and with the availability of a new Cheerful timbering package, with milled strip wood, from Jason at Crown Timberyard, I can build a POB ship with accurate plans, castello boxwood, and high quality rigging materials and fittings. I hope I’m able to hone the skills I developed on my longboat build, and do the Cheerful justice. Chuck, Mike (Stuntflyer), and Bob (rafine) have set the bar pretty high!
 
Feel free to comment and offer constructive criticism. I realize how much better my longboat turned out with the input and advice from others. O.K. Time to stop typing and start building.
 
I received my order from Chuck at Syren Ship Model Company last week, and my wood order from Jason at Crown Timberyard arrived yesterday. Here are a few photos of the raw materials . . . which will be slowly transformed into the HM Cheerful!
 

 

 
Erik

Hi,
after finishing the Banterer my father and I started to search for the next ship to build. We agreed that this time it should be something mall and easily to transport.
After some research we agreed to built a cutter ordered for the Navy, the "Surly". She was the second and last cutter of the Cheerful class ordered to be armed with 10 18pdr Carronades  and 2 6pdr long guns. We were quite surprised by the heavy caliber but  plan copies we got from the National Maritime museum in Greenwich explicitly stated on the side view plan "... to be armed with 10 18 per Carronades and 2 6pdr guns ...."
we started to contract the hull again in two parts (upper and lower) to allow for easy access to the mechanics and electronicsCurrently we finished coppering the hull and are working on the deck.
   
 

Humble beginnings.  I glued the two halves of the false keel together.  The plywood is perfectly flat and straight, so the false keel is absolutely straight.  I added some scrap strip wood for reinforcement along the joint.  I then glued on the 1/8" x 1/16" rabbet strip along the length of the bottom.  I drew the bearding line on the starboard side of the false keel to match the line on the port side.  I'll tweak it a bit before I start removing material.  I also marked each slot, both sides, where the number/lettered bulkheads will go.
 
I threw in a penny and pencil to give an indication of size.

 

 
Erik

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 41 – Forecastle Fancy Rail
 
We are almost approaching the end of the modeling I did on the 1:96 version of Young America.  In the last part the fancy rail around the stern was installed.  The same methods were used on the fancy rail at the bow – with a few minor differences.
 
In the first picture, the central, forward section of the rail has been pinned in place – prior to cutting the scarph joints.
 

 
A template made from one of the pdf drawings was used, since the outer shape could not be traced as was done on the stern.   The joints were then formed, the inside (only) edge rounded by sanding, and the piece painted.  It is shown pinned in place below.
 

 
The side pieces were then fitted in the same manner as those at the stern – as shown below.
 

 
The joints were then formed on these, the edges rounded, and the pieces painted before installation. The starboard piece is being glued in the next picture.
 

 
Note the use of a screw clamp to close the joint to the forward section.  The next step is shown in the last picture.
 

 
There is a small triangular area between the knightheads and the rail on each side which must be capped.  In the picture, small pieces are being fit over these areas.  The outside edge of the forward piece was left unrounded for this work.  Fitting these with an invisible joint required some sanding of the top faces of the installed pieces – as can be seen.  These were of course painted over later – after the outside edges were made flush with the main pieces and rounded over.  Unfortunately, I did not take a close-up picture of the finished work.
 
All that now remained to do on this model was to add the fancy rails along the main deck.  This would bring it to the relatively presentable state for the trip to the NRG conference in October.  I will cover that last bit of work in the next – and perhaps final – part.
 
 
Ed

Humble beginnings.  I glued the two halves of the false keel together.  The plywood is perfectly flat and straight, so the false keel is absolutely straight.  I added some scrap strip wood for reinforcement along the joint.  I then glued on the 1/8" x 1/16" rabbet strip along the length of the bottom.  I drew the bearding line on the starboard side of the false keel to match the line on the port side.  I'll tweak it a bit before I start removing material.  I also marked each slot, both sides, where the number/lettered bulkheads will go.
 
I threw in a penny and pencil to give an indication of size.

 

 
Erik

Humble beginnings.  I glued the two halves of the false keel together.  The plywood is perfectly flat and straight, so the false keel is absolutely straight.  I added some scrap strip wood for reinforcement along the joint.  I then glued on the 1/8" x 1/16" rabbet strip along the length of the bottom.  I drew the bearding line on the starboard side of the false keel to match the line on the port side.  I'll tweak it a bit before I start removing material.  I also marked each slot, both sides, where the number/lettered bulkheads will go.
 
I threw in a penny and pencil to give an indication of size.

 

 
Erik