Erik W

I glued on the friezes.  Keeping the friezes from sticking to the wrong things while applying them was a bit tricky, but I manged to pull it off.  I'm following Mike's (Stuntflyer) lead and keeping the painting to a minimum.  I chose not to apply any white trim paint.  As a newby, I want as much wood showing as possible!
 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 
 

I glued on the friezes.  Keeping the friezes from sticking to the wrong things while applying them was a bit tricky, but I manged to pull it off.  I'm following Mike's (Stuntflyer) lead and keeping the painting to a minimum.  I chose not to apply any white trim paint.  As a newby, I want as much wood showing as possible!
 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 
 

I glued on the friezes.  Keeping the friezes from sticking to the wrong things while applying them was a bit tricky, but I manged to pull it off.  I'm following Mike's (Stuntflyer) lead and keeping the painting to a minimum.  I chose not to apply any white trim paint.  As a newby, I want as much wood showing as possible!
 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 
 

I glued on the friezes.  Keeping the friezes from sticking to the wrong things while applying them was a bit tricky, but I manged to pull it off.  I'm following Mike's (Stuntflyer) lead and keeping the painting to a minimum.  I chose not to apply any white trim paint.  As a newby, I want as much wood showing as possible!
 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 
 

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

Most thwarts in place, only two unglued and the one between G and H missing.
Slowly progress but I enjoy all the trimming that comes along with each part.
 

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

Thanks John
 
The beauty of lining off the deck is that it allows you to create a great plan of attack.  If you connect all of your tick marks you will have a really good idea of how it will look.  If it needs adjustment then just sand it off and start over.  You can do all of this before you lay one deck plank.  Imagine if you just wing it and have half the deck planked...you are sunk.  Lining off the hull first helps you avoid this.
 
I will do this at the stern next and then start cutting wood. 
 
Now if you were just going with straight planks nibbed into the waterway,  would you need to line off the deck like this?  Maybe not.   But I think it is worth the extra work.  And keep in mind you want have to cut into your waterway and risk a cutting error with a bad joint while nibbing.  That takes a huge amount of time and careful chisel work.  So its pretty much a wash as far as the amount of time and effort goes.  
 
 
 
The contemorary model of a cutter shown below also has tapered and scarfed deck planks vs. nibbing.   You can see the tapering very clearly here.
 

 
Chuck
 
 

Deck planking has started.  
 
Just a quick note about the two styles of deck planking.  There were the times when deck planking was straight and nibbed into the waterway.  Most are familiar with this style.  I in fact drafted the plans for Cheerful this way.  However,  I believe that the earlier style was still in practice at this time and probably both were used.  More like a transition period.  In my opinion up to possibly 1820 or even later. This second style would be where tapered and hooked scarf joints were used.  No nibbing into the waterway.
 
I have decided to use the second style as the first is so common.  You see it all the time.    I find this more pleasing to look at as the planks are curved.   Straight planks are to harsh in contrast with the curves all over the rest of the model.  Folks can choose which method they prefer.  I did use the scarfed method on the Confederacy but I simplified it with straight planks.  In reality the planks would have tapered and curved a bit at the bow and stern.  Like this below.   
 

 
Also note the curvature of the planking on this contemporary model.
 

 
After gluing the six deck structures in position,  I drew reference lines for where the deck beams would be located.  This will become important later.  Then I planked down the center with one strake (3/16" wide).  I followed that with 2 on either side of that one.  These were straight-non-tapered planks.  Then I started lining off the deck much like I did for the hull planking.  Although in hindsight,  I should have probably tapered these 5 center planks as well.  See the contemporary model image above.  But they are already done, so I am moving on....
 
First I measured with a tick strip in 3/16" increments at the deck's widest point.  The beam reference line on the forward side of the main hatch.   This showed that I still have ten deck planks to put on each side.
 
I used blue tape in thin strips to separate the deck into two belts both port and starboard.  The inner belt on each side has 6 planks....the outer has four.
 
I manipulated the tape until it curved nicely from bow to stern.  Remember these are not straight deck planks.  The curve is not very drastic.   But it has to be taped out so you can visually check the symmetry port and starboard.  Once I was happy with it,  I traced the inside edge of the tape to define each belt.  I removed one strip of tape in the photos below.  Note the curve of the blue tape still on deck.
 

 
Then, just like I did for the hull.  I used my planking fan and tick strips to divide the deck up at each reference line for a deck beam.   This will show me how much taper I will need in each deck plank.  Its just a matter of measuring the total distance at each deck beam and transferring it to a tick strip.   Then you take that tick strip to your planking fan and divide that space into six equal parts.   Then you come back and transfer those ticks to your deck beam reference line.
 
All of the planks in this inner belt will be cut flat on the ends with no scarf joints yet.  I find that on most contemporary models there are only a few scarf joints.... as opposed to modern models where the builder uses way to many.  I have always seen just two or three and on the rarest of occasions four hooked scarf joints against the waterway.  Most people start way too early and end up with too many of them and it looks very busy.  This is also true of just plain nibbing into the waterway.  In addition,  by curving and tapering the planks it actually reduces the need for that many of them.
 

 

 
Thats it for now as I continue to use tick strips to define the width of the planks at each deck beam location.  Then I will start cutting more wood.  

I stained the longboat. It's a little darker than I expected.  Of course, I'm used to looking at the boat with the wood an almost white color, so maybe I'm just not used to seeing it a more realistic color. Also, I applied the stain in an even and uniform manner, but the wood just didn't absorb it uniformly. Does it look alright?
 
That and the real color isn't showing up well in the photos with the light blue background I've been using.  I took 3 more photos with a darker blue background.  The warmer brown is closer to the true color.  It's hard to show accurate color rendition sometimes!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I applied the red paint (Polly Scale acrylic Soo Line Red). I applied the first coat at full strength and then 2 to 4 coats with the paint diluted 30% with water.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I stained the longboat. It's a little darker than I expected.  Of course, I'm used to looking at the boat with the wood an almost white color, so maybe I'm just not used to seeing it a more realistic color. Also, I applied the stain in an even and uniform manner, but the wood just didn't absorb it uniformly. Does it look alright?
 
That and the real color isn't showing up well in the photos with the light blue background I've been using.  I took 3 more photos with a darker blue background.  The warmer brown is closer to the true color.  It's hard to show accurate color rendition sometimes!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Got the cap rail done.  One of the challenges with this kit has been working with such a poor wood quality.  Sanding the cap rail was like sanding shredded wheat.  My next build may be something scratch built.  At least I'll be able to pick the quality of the wood.
 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I've started working on the mast, boom, gaff and bowsprit.  Here are some photos of the bowsprit temporarily mounted in position.
 
The first two photos show the barcket that is mounted at the heel of the bowsprit.  NMM models show a square tenon inserted into this bracket, so I soldered a piece of square brass tubing to some brass rod.  The tenon is actually a 1/16" square piece of boxwood inserted into the end of the bowsprit.  Per NMM models, I also inserted this bracket into the first thwart, rather than into the floorboards.  The brass rod protruding below the thwart, still needs to be trimmed.


 
The next two photos show the other bowsprit bracket, which was made with some soldered brass tubing and trimmed flat stock.
 


 
I didn't want to press the brass pin all the way in, since I wasn't ready to mount it permanently.
 
BobF

I stained the longboat. It's a little darker than I expected.  Of course, I'm used to looking at the boat with the wood an almost white color, so maybe I'm just not used to seeing it a more realistic color. Also, I applied the stain in an even and uniform manner, but the wood just didn't absorb it uniformly. Does it look alright?
 
That and the real color isn't showing up well in the photos with the light blue background I've been using.  I took 3 more photos with a darker blue background.  The warmer brown is closer to the true color.  It's hard to show accurate color rendition sometimes!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Danny, Mark,
 
I'm not sure what I expected with the staining.  I see all these builds using quality boxwood, Swiss pear, and holly and I guess I forget that I'm just working with soft basswood.     While this build was meant to be practice for a more involved build, it's taken on a life of it's own as far as how attached I've become to the work I've done.
 
Also, when all is said and done, once the longboat is completed, the viewer emphasis will be on the details of the interior, mast, rigging, etc.
 
Erik

Mike, Chuck,
 
I'm totally jealous you can get together face to face with your builds.  Those of us out here on the frontier request photos to be posted of the meeting of the Cheerfuls. 
 
Erik

I stained the longboat. It's a little darker than I expected.  Of course, I'm used to looking at the boat with the wood an almost white color, so maybe I'm just not used to seeing it a more realistic color. Also, I applied the stain in an even and uniform manner, but the wood just didn't absorb it uniformly. Does it look alright?
 
That and the real color isn't showing up well in the photos with the light blue background I've been using.  I took 3 more photos with a darker blue background.  The warmer brown is closer to the true color.  It's hard to show accurate color rendition sometimes!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Danny, Mark,
 
I'm not sure what I expected with the staining.  I see all these builds using quality boxwood, Swiss pear, and holly and I guess I forget that I'm just working with soft basswood.     While this build was meant to be practice for a more involved build, it's taken on a life of it's own as far as how attached I've become to the work I've done.
 
Also, when all is said and done, once the longboat is completed, the viewer emphasis will be on the details of the interior, mast, rigging, etc.
 
Erik

Erik, I agree with the others that the stain looks good, and I also like some color variation in the planks.  Give it some 'life' or something.