Erik W
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Erik W got a reaction from PAnderson in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I attached the chainplates. I used a ruler held up against the side of the boat to figure out the correct angle each chain plate needed to be attached so as to have a straight line towards the area of the mast where the shrouds and backstays will be seized.
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I attached the chainplates. I used a ruler held up against the side of the boat to figure out the correct angle each chain plate needed to be attached so as to have a straight line towards the area of the mast where the shrouds and backstays will be seized.
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from Dan Vadas in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I attached the chainplates. I used a ruler held up against the side of the boat to figure out the correct angle each chain plate needed to be attached so as to have a straight line towards the area of the mast where the shrouds and backstays will be seized.
Erik
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Erik W reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Hello,
Thanks for the positive feedback.
For the preparation of supports for the thwarts, I made a template out of a small brass tube.
This solution I've seen here in the forum at Remco's building report.
This works very well.
Thanks to Remco!
A further thwart is installed.
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Erik W got a reaction from Dan Vadas in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I made the chainplates. They were a total pain in the butt! I have many rejects. I figured soldering would be the way to go, but the wire doesn't solder. So, I went the super glue route. At any rate, in real life they look perfectly fine. Keep in mind in this photo they are about 350% their normal size!
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I made the rope coils. I made a jig using two brass rods, with the smaller diameter rod at the top and a larger one at the bottom. The rods were put into a block of wood that was covered with clear packing tape (to keep the finished coils from sticking). In order to get the 90 degree bend of the rope, I attached one rod on the top of the block and one on the side. I looped the rope around the rods and saturated them with a 50/50 mix of matt medium and water. Once dry, I removed the rope coils from the jig and glued them in place by saturating them again with more diluted matt medium mix. This allowed me to tweak the coils in place.
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Mike,
What brand paint are you using? Also, one thing I've done in the past to make a durable finish on brass with acrylic paint is to put the parts under a hot bright light bulb for 5 minute or so, this basically bakes the paint on and it's less likely to chip (be careful with glue or solder joints). If you're having adhesion problems though, it could be poor quality paint. In addition to the above brands, Testors Model Master acrylics are good. You may also try a non-acrylic paint. They are a bit more hazardous, but generally adhere better.
Erik
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Erik W reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Chuck, David, Albert, thanks.
I have had a little more time to work on the capstan details. Bolts are used to secure the whelps and the chocks to the spindle. Bolts are also placed through the reinforcing ring. I left these bright to contrast with the black color of the ring. They are actually countersunk bolts. I did not have any brass thick enough to machine the pawls, so these are made from wood which has been painted black. Sorry for the sawdust in the first two pictures. This is an example of the camera seeing more than the naked eye and the capstan heads have since been cleaned.
Although I have drilled holes for the capstan bar retaining chains, I have decided not to model them. They look "messy" to me and detract from the appearance of the capstan head. I also figure I have a few months to finally make up my mind about them. I have also not decided whether I will insert the bars. Could anyone tell me where would these have been stored when not in use?
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Erik W reacted to cabrapente in Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
and I have all the shrouds, and all the sticks
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Erik W reacted to Stuntflyer in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Erik,
I used the kit supplied wire to make the Chainplates for my Longboat. After sanding the wire to remove the outside finish I was able to solder the wire. After some cleanup, I sprayed the wire with Krylon primer and painted with model expo paint. No problem with adhesion.
Mike
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Erik W got a reaction from MikeB4 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Mike,
What brand paint are you using? Also, one thing I've done in the past to make a durable finish on brass with acrylic paint is to put the parts under a hot bright light bulb for 5 minute or so, this basically bakes the paint on and it's less likely to chip (be careful with glue or solder joints). If you're having adhesion problems though, it could be poor quality paint. In addition to the above brands, Testors Model Master acrylics are good. You may also try a non-acrylic paint. They are a bit more hazardous, but generally adhere better.
Erik
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Erik W reacted to Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I used to paint brass model railroad engines with a brand called Scale-Coat. The metal had to be clean; even had to strip the clear coat from some engines, since they had bubbles in the clear coating. The Scale-coat worked great, since it was a lacquer and dried glossy. Easier to decal over than flat paints. It didn't need a primer, but if you're painting yellows or reds, you better prime first.
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Erik W reacted to MikeB4 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I've tried painting over brass with no luck, the paint doesn't adhere to the surface at all. I'm going to try putting the brass in vinegar before painting it, as Canute has suggested.
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Erik W got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Mike,
I never bother to clean the metal before I paint it, and haven't had a problem. I rarely have issues with chipping. If I do, I just touch it up when I'm finished with assembly.
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Mike,
I never bother to clean the metal before I paint it, and haven't had a problem. I rarely have issues with chipping. If I do, I just touch it up when I'm finished with assembly.
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from MikeB4 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Mike,
I never bother to clean the metal before I paint it, and haven't had a problem. I rarely have issues with chipping. If I do, I just touch it up when I'm finished with assembly.
Erik
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Erik W reacted to MikeB4 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Eric,
How do you get the acrylic paint to properly cure to metal? I've found that most acrylic paints will chip off of metal parts real easy. Do you coat it with something after it's painted?
Mike
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Erik W reacted to Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
You should clean and prep the metal (brass?), either dunk it in some vinegar for brass or apply a primer paint for other metals. The vinegar is acid, so it etches the brass and gives some tooth to the part for the paint to stick to. Let the primer, then paint your color.
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Erik W reacted to PAnderson in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Eric, that is some seriously nice work. Those chain plates look nice. She is going to look awesome when done. And your coiled lines look awesome too.
Paul
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Erik W got a reaction from egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I made the chainplates. They were a total pain in the butt! I have many rejects. I figured soldering would be the way to go, but the wire doesn't solder. So, I went the super glue route. At any rate, in real life they look perfectly fine. Keep in mind in this photo they are about 350% their normal size!
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from Mike Y in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I made the chainplates. They were a total pain in the butt! I have many rejects. I figured soldering would be the way to go, but the wire doesn't solder. So, I went the super glue route. At any rate, in real life they look perfectly fine. Keep in mind in this photo they are about 350% their normal size!
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
Mike,
I used Polly Scale Engine Black acrylic paint. It has been discontinued. With many years of model railroading under my belt, I have a lot of these railroad colors. I'm not sure what I'll do when they dry up/run out . . . If you're looking for a good black acrylic paint for brush painting, Vallejo paints are among the best out there. I've applied them with a brush and they leave an even coat with no brush marks. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/Also, Ryland Craze, in his build log, says these paints are good: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/850-18th-century-longboat-by-ryland-craze-model-shipways-148/?p=368056 I've also used Testors Model Master acrylic paint with good results.
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from Chuck in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
I made the chainplates. They were a total pain in the butt! I have many rejects. I figured soldering would be the way to go, but the wire doesn't solder. So, I went the super glue route. At any rate, in real life they look perfectly fine. Keep in mind in this photo they are about 350% their normal size!
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from Q A's Revenge in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A few photos of the interior of the longboat with the bow and cockpit platforms installed.
Erik
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Erik W got a reaction from maddog33 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build
A couple of quick shots. The planking is finished. I have yet to start any sanding, so pardon the rough look!
Erik
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