michael mott

It depends on the thickness of the material and the number of teeth. The coarser blades are generally easier for the wood. In this case the blade was fine enough to also cut the copper because it was sharp and had not become dull from cutting metal before.
 
This graphic representation shows the .031 copper and the #1 jewelers blade that has 47 teeth per inch next to the edge of the metal there need to be at least 2 teeth engaging with the metal or the blade will catch and there is a possibility of ripping off a tooth and or snapping the blade.
 

 
I hope this answers your question. I also have some #8/0, #5/0, #3/0 The #8/0 is the finest.
 
Michael

I'll have to wrap my head around this one!  Just a never ending list of details...will it ever end?😉
 
Michael

Well here is the truth about the new sink.
First task was to start with a new former

 
And cut a new sheet of copper .031"

 
After laying out the cuts use jewelers saw.

 
Then without any annealing begin the folds

 

 

 
At this point I needed to do some cutting and used a small nibbler

 

 
Then the trimmed edges need to be cleaned up this was done by first unfolding the metal a little
 

 
Then using a bit of wood as a guide filed the edges.

 
The refolded and wired the seams together  and used easyflo silver solder to join the seams. My silver soldering skills still leave a lot to be desired but I am improving.

 
and it looks better than the first one.
 

 
I would do it differently if I had to do it again, making only clean corner joints...... but that's for another boat.
 
Michael
 
 

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

Well here is the truth about the new sink.
First task was to start with a new former

 
And cut a new sheet of copper .031"

 
After laying out the cuts use jewelers saw.

 
Then without any annealing begin the folds

 

 

 
At this point I needed to do some cutting and used a small nibbler

 

 
Then the trimmed edges need to be cleaned up this was done by first unfolding the metal a little
 

 
Then using a bit of wood as a guide filed the edges.

 
The refolded and wired the seams together  and used easyflo silver solder to join the seams. My silver soldering skills still leave a lot to be desired but I am improving.

 
and it looks better than the first one.
 

 
I would do it differently if I had to do it again, making only clean corner joints...... but that's for another boat.
 
Michael
 
 

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

I had a long chat with the owner and he reminded me that we were on a budget with this refit so I mentioned that I would try to find a used copper sink, I found one on MYBAY it was the right price.
 

 
Checked the fit
 

 

 
Ok so here's how I did it
 

 
Cut out a bit of copper sheet

made up a former from some scrap maple 2x1.5x 3/4 then sanded it smooth.  Annealed the copper and started bashing
 

 
Many annealings and bashings later with a leather mallet
 

and more bashings couple of different hammers but mostly with a too big ball pein.
 

 
A couple of clean up hammerings and then cleaned up the top and dropped it into the pickle .

 
I picked up the gauntlet Druxey you have a habit of dropping it.😉
 
I'm not going down that other rabbit hole
 
Greg I think I read an article about that Model in a Scale ships or similar magazine I seem to recall it had gold and silver fittings.
 
Eberhard, I have not figured it out yet I will be doing a bit of searching to see if I can find some better pictures of the type that is in Integrity.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Thanks for the kind words.
working on the access to the interior, the companionway steps are going to be set up differently that I had originally planned.

 
I am now using a few scraps of some different figured maple, instead of the mahogany ones. The treads are from an off-cut of fiddle-back figured maple and the sidewalls from the old maple log. I rather like the soft curve on the steps into integrity and so have used the same motif.

 
The rear wall of the cabin will be fixed and will act as an anchor for the components of the kitchen area and the new steps, Only the bottom 3 panels and the long cross beam are glued in at the moment, because I am still making design decisions at the moment for the upper section of the steps.    The floor hooks under the wall at the stern end.

 
This is fiddly work! I don't know how you folks who build the large 3 mast ships with all the cannon stuff and hardware do it. If I drop something it is pretty easy to fish it out. So kudos to you all who build all the deck beams and hanging knees etc, I think they would be carrying me out in a straight jacket.
 

 
Michael
 

Thanks everyone for the wonderfully encouraging comments and likes.
In order to capture the rods I decided that a handle could act as both the means to rotate from the inside and also act as the capture. First a disk of 1/2 inch brass was turned down to 3/16 for about 1/8 (1") and two holes .031" x .030" deep to match the pins were drilled and a clearance hole through the centre for a countersunk 00x 90 machine screw. then it was parted off the bar.
 

 
This was positioned onto the rear side of the spindle and the position marked for the full extension of the rods with a sharpie.

 

 
Next the surplus was removed with the jewelers saw.
 

 
and was then filed and polished to the final shape.
 

 
the door plate was pinned into position prior to placing the door knob.
 

 
then placed into the opening to check size.
The rods are cut to their final length.
 

 

 
and the outside
 

 
Now for some supper.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

For the lock I have decided on a variation of the crash bar type rodding.
First a handle spindle was turned up from some 1/4 inch brass rod and stepped down to 1/16 at the handle end then 3/32 for the section that coes through the door frame and finally 3/16 for the cam section.
A separate door knob was bored out to slide over the 1/16 end. The spindle was then pushed into place and transferred to the mill for drilling the hole for the taper pin to hold the handle on.
 

 
Then using the taper reamer for the third smallest pin
 

 
the pin will get cut to length later.
 

 
A .020 plate was cut and drilled for the door plate
 

 
and the cam side was set into the door frame .030"
 

 
The pins in the cam disk are taper pins that have been driven home with the tiny hammer and cleaned off.
 

 
some bars of 1/32 x 1/16 were drilled out to fit over the .023" pins
 
 
 

 
Next some capture plates were folded up out of some .010" using the vice as a press
 


 
after punching some .020 holes and a little rough shaping it looks like it will work.
 

 

 
I might make some cleaner ones tomorrow. and figure out the handle for the inside  which will also capture the bars
 
Ah yes then some more hinges.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Now I know why Kitchen reno's and rebuilds are so expensive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Time for a coffee break, My arms ache from all that handsawing.
 
Michael
 

Here is the new floor.
step one was to re-saw the piece of fir into some 4 inch planks

 
Next the wood was set up so the the grain was flipped end for end to create the opposite cupping like this
the planks were glued up in pairs first

 
Then the six pairs were glued up in pairs again
 

 
Then the three pieces were glued together and given a final clean up with the bench plane and shaped to fit into the hull. After the fitting it was taken back to the bench to finish fitting the seat platforms with the maple edge.

 
The seat edge was cut from a lovely piece of fiddle back figured maple and I only had a small piece, so I used the jewelers saw to split it down the middle.
 

 

 
Before gluing the piece to the seat bottom I put a small chamfer on the bottom edge the top was done after it had been glued to the bottom, this gave it the rigidity and stability.
 

 
The floor was given a couple of coats of Teak oil and now to finish the port side back panels

 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 

Again thanks to you for all your kindness.
 
Today I was able to get back to doing a little work. I feel like my apprenticeship in the upholstery department has moved me forward enough to make the final set of cushions
The first picture shows the production of the seats, with all the learning steps piled up in the background. The fabric was marked and punched for the pins and then that will be done all at the same time.

 
I used a steel plate to initially act as a stop for the pins then set up a 1/16th set of spacers to set the pins a little lower. after that the pins were snipped off the backside and then reset to dull the snipped ends and to ensure that all were the same depth.
 

 
The starboard side cushions are ready for the coloring, the port cushions will be pinned tomorrow.
Michael
 

Thank you all for your very thoughtful condolences, it helps soften the pain that welled up yesterday, even though we new her time was drawing to a close.
 
here a couple of picture from earlier in  September 2019 and March 2020

 

 
To the moderators, I know this is a build log so thank you for your compassion, Had I had my wits about me I would have posted the earlier picture in the Shore leave, so thank you.
 
Michael 
 

Today i covered a base with the pigskin. I am now doing some of the work outside the hull because I now know that it will fit back in without any problems.

 
The panel under the seats is just a solid one.
 

 

 
The pigskin is mor difficult to work with and so I had to use a slightly different approach.
 

 
once the leather was glued I flipped it over and inserted the pins then dabbed a drop of brown paint on the buttons
 

 

 
set up inside with the green cushion
 

 

 
and the fabric one so as to lower the contrast.
 

 
Michael.
 

A quick and dirty yest to see how the vinyl looks as a buttoned cushion.
a couple of layers of the thin craft foam sheets from Michaels carpet taped to a bit of 1/4 inch thick plywood then the vinyl stapled to the wood on the bottom, and some brass coated estuchions pins hammered in to a rough pattern to represent the buttons.
 

 
A dab of green craft paint on the pins 
 

 
and see it in situ

 
The green vinyl might just work, tomorrow I will look at a test with the pigskin.
 
Michael
 

Hi WalrusGuy?
I am using a fairly small Canon SX730HS and it has a flip mirror screen I  just sat i on a block of wood or in this case a jam jar.

 
I like the flip screen and have used the timer and then just held it in my hand as well
 

 
Michael
 

Thanks for all the comments and likes.
There is something intrinsically satisfying about being able to prepare ones own materials from the raw tree. The maple that I am using in this model is from a log of maple that was 24 inches in diameter and 6 feet long that was cut in Nova Scotia in 1973 and was given to me by a students grandfather. It was about 7 years later that I cut a 3 inch slab from the center of the log with a hand held chainsaw and then hand planed that into a top for a coffee table.
Because the log had sat upright on a concrete floor for a couple of years before laying out the back of my model shop the log had started to get some spalting, which can produce some pretty figure.
The rest was cut into various slabs of 1/4 sawn pieces and set up in the rafters of the model shop when I was running my model building business.
Over the years since I have resawn various bits into 1/4 inch thick book matched panels and stacked then for later use.
 
Today I used a couple of 1/4 by 3 1/2 sheets that were 14 inches long that were still in the raw bandsawn state and decided that they would represent some figured plywood for the bottoms of the seat cushions. Hand planing the air dried maple was a joy soft paper thin shavings curing out of my benck plane.
 

 

 

 
The planks are resting on some rebated cleats.  I will add some cross pieces that when finished will hook into the rebates.
 
Michael 
 
 

A bit of a struggle this morning fitting the aft panel section I had trouble getting it to fit in the correct position so kept removing material from the top edge so that it would rotate onto place. Then did a check only to fin out that the floor was not seated properly. The it all fell into place.

 
From under the cockpit looking forward.
 

 
then with the skylights replaced

 
Now the real fun begins getting the side panels to hook into position and lock the whole works together.
lunchtime
 
Michael

Tom... Sextant that's complicated!
 
Gary, Thanks I appreciate it.
 
The aft panels for the main cabin are now ready to be glued up, but lunch and a nap are in order first.
In order to get the paneling as clean as possible without sanding I love using my little block plane and the thickness planing jig. I needed to creat  slight taper from one end of the horizontal pieces so that the surfaces mated smoothly  so after getting to the main thickness , I added a couple of slivers of paper to create the difference from end to end.
 

 

 
All the parts are now interlocked with mortices and tenons and the panels are fitting with some ability to move.
 

 

 
Michael

First a bit of sorting here are a couple of shots this morning, time to put away some of the rabbit holes.
 

 
 
 

 
then rearrange the cabinets and work surfaces.
 

 
Easy passage now around the benches with better access to the cutter also set the bowsprit back out.
 
Picking up where I left off with the cabin interior will take a day or two to get back into the swing of things (doors, cupboards etc.)
 

 
I need to sort out how to lock the parts together inside the hull, a bit like putting ships in bottles really. Big pieces that have to go through a narrow opening in the right sequence.
 

 
Now for some fish and rice for supper.
 
Michael
 
 

Hi Chuck
I Just watched your videos of the Rope Rocket. Thanks for doing this, I was curious at the point where you just pushed the drill up to the back of the headstock and started Spinning. Later I realized that you are using a Phillips Driver bit in the drill to mate with the center bolt. A change I would make when I buy one of these is to change the bolt to a torques one. I personally have an aversion to Phillips screw and bolts.....Must be a British/Canadian ex pat thing... or just me.  That said I have driven thousands of Drywall Screws.
A great video and clear information, I particularly like the aspect of telling us that we need to practice to get the "Feel" of making the rope. This speaks to Craftsmanship and a knowledge that can only come from time at the task.
 
I also downloaded the scale rope chart, very nice. One thought occurs to me is to have a separate chart for each of the common scales, so that when one prints off the chart for say a 1:96 scale model the size of the real full size rope matches the model rope. or the chart for a 1:48 rope the sizes would be matched for that scale. I think that this would make deciding what rope to use easier for the novice who is reading information about the ropes and lines on their model.
 
I only offer these comments because in reading about blocks and lines there always seems to be some question about what these sizes are.
 
As soon as I get back from Whitehorse I will be ordering your rope rocket.
 
Michael

And hopefully never too old to learn something new. 

That's the beauty of modeling: You're never too old to have fun doing it! 

Bob thanks for the detailed information regarding the through hull outlets and the siphon loops. I had not really thought about this aspect of our modern small cruise boats let alone the older craft.
 
I agree...But....  but my grandaughter  would not.
Seriously though The idea is to be able to show what can be seen relatively easily and a few things that need a little searching but still visible with perhaps a small dental type mirror. I do want to move on to the next project before I am too old to have fun.
 
Thank you to everyone who is following along and showing their appreciation in one way or another.
 
Michael