greatgalleons

I have placed pin striping tape to out line the boot topping ,  the light green paint will butt up to the dark green paint since it has a slightly raised edge and should not go past  onto the dark green.  this pin striping tape works so much better and leaves no adhesive behind..   I used to use it on all my custom motorcycle paint jobs. great stuff.

removed masking,  paint is krylon hunter green satin.

lower hull taped off and painted

I used taminya tape to tape off the lower hull for painting.  Last time I'll use that tape, it left a lot of adhesive after removal.

after marking the line I used black ink to paint the hull above the waterline.

here's my fancy waterline marker

The stern post in place,  a little more sanding and filler and it will be ready to paint.

wood filler sanded with 150 grit sand paper.  Will need to skim one more light coat of filler and sand again with 200 grit.

At this stage I will also add the stern post which was left off.

The raw planking has been sanded and covered with wood filler,  I chose interior wood filler since the exterior version is not as smooth to spread.

So now the hull has been planked and is in a rough state until I can sand and use wood filler.  the stern post is still not on the build yet until that area is cleaned up and smooth out nicely. 

Hey there Joe.    I made a small T-square out of scrape wood to butt each grating piece so they would stay even all across,   I also used a small pointed metal tip to apply a tiny drop of wood glue to each individual tip of wood on the grating pieces before aligning it to each other with the T-square keeping them in place.  it was very delicate work. The larger grating was completed in two separate sections and then glued together to make one piece.  After the pieces where complete I used 400 grit sandpaper to remove the unsightly burn marks from the surface.  

 

Make sure each piece is facing up in the right direction.  one side is completely flat and looks better than the other which appears to be beveled.  I think the lazer does not cut completely straight, its a little slanted. 

 

I also use a small metal file to smooth the edges all flat so they have no problem fitting in the coamings.

all together to simulate a actual cannonade

here are the components ,  upper and lower bed, quoin, eyebolt, eyebolts with rings are made from the strip of brass provided in the kit,  I have stained the brass parts with gun bluing solution.  the carronades are painted with gunmetal enamel paint.

painting carronade and bases, the metal bands have been painted on with black ink, it's odd that MS did not provide the lazer cut metal bands for this kit like they do in their Syren kit, the roller castings have been glued on using superglue gel and wood glue.

so while I'm waiting for the hull planking glue to dry I'll work on the carronades just to keep some momentum going and hopefully have them ready when the time has come to place them.

hey there tongaman ,  hope to see your build on MSW soon,   I'm learning as I go with this particular kit, I'm not used to single plank hulls and its taking a while for me to plank it.  while waiting for the glue to dry on the planks I'm slowly working on the carronades.  good luck. a.j.

Here the Niagara is being restored, the hull below the waterline is painted a different color than dark green, it almost looks a little copper in color.

Hello bob, I think it's just a personal choice. It's no easier either way.

the instructions indicate laying the hull planking in several belts for the sake of accuracy and then painting the entire hull so you cannot actually see all the work you have done. I'll leave that to  younger or more capable modeler to achieve and plank it the way I know how.

this kit comes complete with bilge rat

the fashion piece is just a couple of strips of wood glued on to transom, filed and sanded to the contour of surrounding areas.

Very nice AJ - Really enjoyed your Freisland build as well. I know you mentioned RA getting the best of you and only building a couple more ships... would it be any easier if you built in a larger scale? Like some of the 1/24 and 1/36 cross sections over in scratch built forum? I hope you can continue for a long time....

 

Lou

You know I have not considered that option, I,ll look into some of those builds for inspiration. I was a portrait artist for 25 years and pick up model ship building because I have to maintain some form of art for my own sanity. Thanks for the info.

deck planking done

hey there asat, I noticed your Harvey build a few months ago and I remember the alternate wood choices you use. very nice, I'll check into again soon as I get some time. I had the Harvey kit but have sold it with the rest of my collection, I only have the syren and derfflinger kits left for my final builds.

a little further along, very little but I plan on taking my time.