liteflight
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liteflight got a reaction from mtaylor in Henry Grace a Dieu (Great Harry) by Louie da fly - FINISHED - Scale 1:200 - Repaired after over 50 yrs of neglect
Reread the shroud saga!
Reminded myself how small these bastards devices are!
Snippet of info that may help you or other threaders of gnats eyes: fly tying thread is not round but flattish with many near-parallel strands with a slow helix (for good and sufficient fly-tying reasons). It therefore can be split into thinner strands.
This info from https://www.bottledshipbuilder.com/topic/393-fly-tying-thread-for-rigging/
BTW - there is a staggering amount of info about the small side of model shipbuilding which we all might find interesting in the forums
I have some fly thread - again the thinnest that was available at a local shop called "the compleat angler" about 5 minutes from me. They are probably still laughing on finding out the intended uses of the materials I buy
I'll have a wee keek at the fly thread and see if I can split it - I'm intrigued now
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from mtaylor in Henry Grace a Dieu (Great Harry) by Louie da fly - FINISHED - Scale 1:200 - Repaired after over 50 yrs of neglect
Steven
Paxolin, also known as Tufnol ( both trade names). It’s Sunday name is SRBP ( synthetic resin bonded paper). Resin is phenolic, and it’s equally strong in all directions at right angles to the sheet ( what we need for dead eyes
its stronger brother SPBF (Tufnol Carp) is the same resin bonded into cotton fabric - even stronger and tougher
they all seem to be available in Aus from electrical and gasket suppliers, 0.5 mm to 75 mm thick
https://agaus.com.au/?s=Srbf
https://au.rs-online.com/web/b/tufnol-/
I should go back and see what thickness you are using. Tufnol sheet goes down to 0.4 mm and I would guess you are using something like 1mm, or 40thou to its friends.
Birch! I was speaking of my favourite birch ply! 0.4 mm thick 3-ply. A couple of laminations of that and little matters like “grain” and “ tearing” are history
Best way to make the lanyard holes would be laser - I have found many places in Melbourne who will laser cut from a program ( or drawing) and will supply material or use yours. They might bilk ( or balk) at phenolic because of the fume properties. Birch ply cuts beautifully, so they could nest many deadeyes and spares and cut them in one pass
Sadly my flying buddy with a CO2 laser died last year or I would offer to get them made as a trial
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from Keith Black in Henry Grace a Dieu (Great Harry) by Louie da fly - FINISHED - Scale 1:200 - Repaired after over 50 yrs of neglect
Steven
Paxolin, also known as Tufnol ( both trade names). It’s Sunday name is SRBP ( synthetic resin bonded paper). Resin is phenolic, and it’s equally strong in all directions at right angles to the sheet ( what we need for dead eyes
its stronger brother SPBF (Tufnol Carp) is the same resin bonded into cotton fabric - even stronger and tougher
they all seem to be available in Aus from electrical and gasket suppliers, 0.5 mm to 75 mm thick
https://agaus.com.au/?s=Srbf
https://au.rs-online.com/web/b/tufnol-/
I should go back and see what thickness you are using. Tufnol sheet goes down to 0.4 mm and I would guess you are using something like 1mm, or 40thou to its friends.
Birch! I was speaking of my favourite birch ply! 0.4 mm thick 3-ply. A couple of laminations of that and little matters like “grain” and “ tearing” are history
Best way to make the lanyard holes would be laser - I have found many places in Melbourne who will laser cut from a program ( or drawing) and will supply material or use yours. They might bilk ( or balk) at phenolic because of the fume properties. Birch ply cuts beautifully, so they could nest many deadeyes and spares and cut them in one pass
Sadly my flying buddy with a CO2 laser died last year or I would offer to get them made as a trial
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from thibaultron in HMAS AUSTRALIA II by AKRYPTO - FINISHED - 1:72 - RADIO - PLASTIC - tribute build
Hi, Akrypto
Does that make your father a marine, or is that not what happens in the RAN?
I’m enjoying your build and your style in relating it. I shall be sitting in and consuming the Lamingtons
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from mtaylor in Henry Grace a Dieu (Great Harry) by Louie da fly - FINISHED - Scale 1:200 - Repaired after over 50 yrs of neglect
I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied
Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to.
Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour!
Disadvantage: smell of phenolic resin when drilling
alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required
i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle
Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo
andrew
Stop press:
Activity detected at Viking Shipyard!
blog creaks into action
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liteflight got a reaction from Ian_Grant in Henry Grace a Dieu (Great Harry) by Louie da fly - FINISHED - Scale 1:200 - Repaired after over 50 yrs of neglect
I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied
Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to.
Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour!
Disadvantage: smell of phenolic resin when drilling
alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required
i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle
Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo
andrew
Stop press:
Activity detected at Viking Shipyard!
blog creaks into action
-
liteflight got a reaction from Keith Black in Henry Grace a Dieu (Great Harry) by Louie da fly - FINISHED - Scale 1:200 - Repaired after over 50 yrs of neglect
I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied
Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to.
Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour!
Disadvantage: smell of phenolic resin when drilling
alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required
i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle
Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo
andrew
Stop press:
Activity detected at Viking Shipyard!
blog creaks into action
-
liteflight got a reaction from Old Collingwood in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Alan
Many thanks for your blog; I am learning a lot of the things that (I think) I need to know about 3D printing.
Your "catch" of the filament roller is an example of getting to the root of a problem, after fire-fighting all the effects seperately
Very instructive blog, very impressive model
thanks,
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from Old Collingwood in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Just to be clear, tempering is reducing hardness, generally in favour of toughness. And reducing hardness of the brass drive roller is probably not what is required here.
The process described in the link is indeed softening the brass (or copper) to its softest state, even if I would describe that as annealing.
Rolling the drive teeth into the drive roller after machining will have work hardened the brass considerably and I would expect that to be the condition that gives the longest life propelling the PLA.
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liteflight got a reaction from mtaylor in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Alan
Many thanks for your blog; I am learning a lot of the things that (I think) I need to know about 3D printing.
Your "catch" of the filament roller is an example of getting to the root of a problem, after fire-fighting all the effects seperately
Very instructive blog, very impressive model
thanks,
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from mtaylor in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Just to be clear, tempering is reducing hardness, generally in favour of toughness. And reducing hardness of the brass drive roller is probably not what is required here.
The process described in the link is indeed softening the brass (or copper) to its softest state, even if I would describe that as annealing.
Rolling the drive teeth into the drive roller after machining will have work hardened the brass considerably and I would expect that to be the condition that gives the longest life propelling the PLA.
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liteflight got a reaction from Canute in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Alan
Many thanks for your blog; I am learning a lot of the things that (I think) I need to know about 3D printing.
Your "catch" of the filament roller is an example of getting to the root of a problem, after fire-fighting all the effects seperately
Very instructive blog, very impressive model
thanks,
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from Canute in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Just to be clear, tempering is reducing hardness, generally in favour of toughness. And reducing hardness of the brass drive roller is probably not what is required here.
The process described in the link is indeed softening the brass (or copper) to its softest state, even if I would describe that as annealing.
Rolling the drive teeth into the drive roller after machining will have work hardened the brass considerably and I would expect that to be the condition that gives the longest life propelling the PLA.
-
liteflight got a reaction from lmagna in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Just to be clear, tempering is reducing hardness, generally in favour of toughness. And reducing hardness of the brass drive roller is probably not what is required here.
The process described in the link is indeed softening the brass (or copper) to its softest state, even if I would describe that as annealing.
Rolling the drive teeth into the drive roller after machining will have work hardened the brass considerably and I would expect that to be the condition that gives the longest life propelling the PLA.
-
liteflight got a reaction from lmagna in Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted
Alan
Many thanks for your blog; I am learning a lot of the things that (I think) I need to know about 3D printing.
Your "catch" of the filament roller is an example of getting to the root of a problem, after fire-fighting all the effects seperately
Very instructive blog, very impressive model
thanks,
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from Canute in Firing a replica 18th century naval cannon - damage
Good old Dan Snow!
The splinters were the main incapacitating factor, I believe. They would happen whether the round shot hit on or between a frame, but it’s worth remembering that there wasn’t much “ between frames “ in a European line-of-battle ship
I visited HMS Trincomalee ( frigate) at Hartlepool and learned that yer matelot hated to serve in a teak- built ship as the splinters were certain, rather than likely, to cause sepsis. Their Lords of the Admiralty, however liked the fact that teak is infused with insecticide and resists shipworm and rot.
conflicting interests!
But Trinco is still with us!
incidentally, I have manned a full-size ropewalk on the dock next to Trinco - a fascinating process, especially in the full, cable lengths.
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from mtaylor in Firing a replica 18th century naval cannon - damage
Good old Dan Snow!
The splinters were the main incapacitating factor, I believe. They would happen whether the round shot hit on or between a frame, but it’s worth remembering that there wasn’t much “ between frames “ in a European line-of-battle ship
I visited HMS Trincomalee ( frigate) at Hartlepool and learned that yer matelot hated to serve in a teak- built ship as the splinters were certain, rather than likely, to cause sepsis. Their Lords of the Admiralty, however liked the fact that teak is infused with insecticide and resists shipworm and rot.
conflicting interests!
But Trinco is still with us!
incidentally, I have manned a full-size ropewalk on the dock next to Trinco - a fascinating process, especially in the full, cable lengths.
andrew
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liteflight got a reaction from Edwardkenway in Firing a replica 18th century naval cannon - damage
Good old Dan Snow!
The splinters were the main incapacitating factor, I believe. They would happen whether the round shot hit on or between a frame, but it’s worth remembering that there wasn’t much “ between frames “ in a European line-of-battle ship
I visited HMS Trincomalee ( frigate) at Hartlepool and learned that yer matelot hated to serve in a teak- built ship as the splinters were certain, rather than likely, to cause sepsis. Their Lords of the Admiralty, however liked the fact that teak is infused with insecticide and resists shipworm and rot.
conflicting interests!
But Trinco is still with us!
incidentally, I have manned a full-size ropewalk on the dock next to Trinco - a fascinating process, especially in the full, cable lengths.
andrew
-
liteflight got a reaction from thibaultron in Firing a replica 18th century naval cannon - damage
Good old Dan Snow!
The splinters were the main incapacitating factor, I believe. They would happen whether the round shot hit on or between a frame, but it’s worth remembering that there wasn’t much “ between frames “ in a European line-of-battle ship
I visited HMS Trincomalee ( frigate) at Hartlepool and learned that yer matelot hated to serve in a teak- built ship as the splinters were certain, rather than likely, to cause sepsis. Their Lords of the Admiralty, however liked the fact that teak is infused with insecticide and resists shipworm and rot.
conflicting interests!
But Trinco is still with us!
incidentally, I have manned a full-size ropewalk on the dock next to Trinco - a fascinating process, especially in the full, cable lengths.
andrew
-
liteflight reacted to Louie da fly in Winchelsea Nef 1274 A.D. by Louie da fly - FINISHED - 1:75
Thanks, Christian. That book sounds very interesting.
I've just finished the mast - though the top of the mast of the ship on the Winchelsea town seal is a bit vague, Landström interprets it as having a cross at the top, in line with the seals of other towns such as Melcombe Regis and Hythe, as well as several manuscript illustrations.
So here's the cross at the top - a halving joint for the crossbar.
Here's the mast dry fitted - the cross seems always to be visible from the side rather than the front as I would have expected, though this might be artistic license to make sure it can be seen in a profile view of the ship.
And now based upon the Ijssel cog, the planking for the bottom of the hold
And "branches" - actually dry weeds from the street verge opposite the house - laid on top of the planking.
and "brushwood" (also weeds) to bed down the barrels that are the ship's cargo.
Barrels under way - twenty-one of them.
Barrel hoops just begun
More to come.
Steven
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liteflight reacted to yvesvidal in Flower-Class Corvette by Yves Vidal - FINISHED - 1/48 - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 3D printed
Moving along with Module #3A: This one was easy as all was prepared ahead of time... :-)
Notice the railing above....
It is starting to look like a Corvette.....
Next is Module #4: the galley, the smoke house, the mast, the dinghies and all kind of details.....
Yves
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liteflight reacted to Louie da fly in Winchelsea Nef 1274 A.D. by Louie da fly - FINISHED - 1:75
Thanks for the reply, Tony. I can fully understand the time constraints. I only really got serious progress on my modelling once I'd retired.
Pearl luggers are fascinating vessels (though strictly the West Australian ones should be called schooners or ketches, as they were gaff rigged). Unless it's been removed, there's an old lugger at the Maritime Museum in Fremantle. I'm looking forward to seeing what you decide to build once you get the time.
In the meantime, here's the latest progress on the nef.
Deck beams for the after deck.
Side beams for the hold opening
Adding intermediate frames between the existing ones. Firstly the bits that show above deck level.
I will probably add intermediate floor timbers as well, at least in the hold, as I intend to have the hold partly exposed (a couple of removable deck planks removed) to show some cargo. Not sure if I'll carry the intermediate floor timbers all the way through the hull, as most of them will be hidden by the decks.
Steven
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liteflight reacted to Louie da fly in Winchelsea Nef 1274 A.D. by Louie da fly - FINISHED - 1:75
I've cut the holes in the planking for the central through-beam.
First frame finished and in place. It's the central one with the through-beam, and the mast will be immediately aft of it.
And second frame in place.
The first one I made won't be put it in immediately - I'm using it as a sort of template to keep the spacing etc correct for the following ones.
Now that I've got into my rhythm, they are coming together fairly smoothly and without too much time taken for each one.
Steven
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liteflight reacted to Louie da fly in Winchelsea Nef by AnchorClanker - Scale 1:96 - first wood scratch build
Hmm - there's a difference between a plural and a collective noun. The plural of nef should, I suppose, be nefs (using the French system of making plurals out of singular words). This of course doesn't take into account the fact that nef really isn't a specific term for this kind of ship - there wasn't one. In fact, I thought I'd made it up, in default of any correct name existing for them, then found others on the Internet had beaten me to it.
But a collective noun for them - like a Pride of lions or a murder of crows, or a parliament of fowls, or a mob of kangaroos (yes, really - that's the name for a group of roos!), a sanctimony of bishops, a flourish of strumpets, or a flange of baboons, a smugness of young IT professionals - hmmm, perhaps a jabberwock of nefs? Oh, no, that would be for hulcs, wouldn't it?
Maybe a bandersnatch of nefs?
Steven
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liteflight got a reaction from mtaylor in Winchelsea Nef by AnchorClanker - Scale 1:96 - first wood scratch build
Chief Mark
I look forward to your build.
Can anyone suggest a collective noun for Nefs ? There seems to be an outbreak of nef-building ( statistically, the number of builds has doubled in the last week)
And that doesn’t include builds of Hulcs, frumious or otherwise.
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