donrobinson

Hello Michael, welcome to the build there is always lots of room and never the need to apologise for filling up the inbox with likes. I very much enjoy that.
Drinking in the shipyard is allowed, however, until I find a way of controlling myself it is confined to spectators only. So you are good to go, fridge is in the back beside the recycle bin. Smoking is allowed in the two back rows and we ask that you turn off your cell phones while any power tools or sharp instruments are being used. All beverages are complimentary and self serve. Enjoy the voyage

I agree Jean-Pierre, same thing has happened to me.I now have my shipyard set up so that when the liquor cabinet door opens the shipyard door automatically closes and locks. 

Hello Michael, welcome to the build there is always lots of room and never the need to apologise for filling up the inbox with likes. I very much enjoy that.
Drinking in the shipyard is allowed, however, until I find a way of controlling myself it is confined to spectators only. So you are good to go, fridge is in the back beside the recycle bin. Smoking is allowed in the two back rows and we ask that you turn off your cell phones while any power tools or sharp instruments are being used. All beverages are complimentary and self serve. Enjoy the voyage

She looks marvellous EJ. Pour yourself one of your favourites, you have earned it!

I agree Jean-Pierre, same thing has happened to me.I now have my shipyard set up so that when the liquor cabinet door opens the shipyard door automatically closes and locks. 

I agree Jean-Pierre, same thing has happened to me.I now have my shipyard set up so that when the liquor cabinet door opens the shipyard door automatically closes and locks. 

Hello all, Thanks for stopping in for a look, for all the likes and the awesome comments. Today(yesterday now) I took a day off building the Trabaccolo(sort of) and took some time to use a few of the tools I had to have but some have never used. So I built a ships wheel, yes I know the Trabaccolo has a tiller but she was a ship of trade and on one of her journeys she picked this one up, hope you enjoy:\
 
First up is the handles, actually this wasn't the first up but at the time when I started I did not think I would be showing any of this. So this is 3 mm walnut dowel, from MarisStella, the knob part is 6mm long for a total length from end to end of 12 mm and just turned on my rotary tool. I used some rifler files to do the shaping.
 

 
 These next couple of pictures are showing the handles in place,this is where I missed taking pictures. I started with a dowel, trued it up on the lathe then mounted the chuck on the rotary table(also mounted to a tilting table) that is attached to the mill. I drilled the 8 edge holes at 1.5 mm using a end mill bit, then laid the table assembly to the horizontal position.  I made the centre hole using a 3 mm end mill bit then moved it over to within 2mm of the outside edge and cut a 3 mm wide groove(rabbit).
 


 
 As you can see the wood was really breaking apart, this was just a piece of an old broom handle, so everything got a coat of thin ca. After glue was dry it was put back on lathe and separated(again no pictures) using the parting tool. Doing it this way solves the problem of getting the hub centred as it is still one piece
 

 
These next two pictures are just turning down some brass for the centre hub (not rocket science but first time for me  ) the piece is about .5 mm thick and 8mm in diameter, I think it could have been  a little smaller but I was trying to cover up the wooden hub.
 

 
And here is the result of my "fun day", it measures 31.5 mm from knob end to knob end. Still needs a light sanding and some wipe on poly, it should look real good in the cargo hold as it only has eight handles instead of the proper ten   .
 

 
 The next "fun day" may see a stand and drum for it

A little update:
 
Grates for ship's stove, just brass rod ca'd together
 

 
The pieces for stove
 

 
Completed, added handles and hangers. The pot is a flattened out penny with brass rods soldered on for handles
 

Hello all just a small update, Thanks to all for stopping in, for your likes and great comments.
 I finally got the courage up to cut all the holes in the deck and I must say all went good, and I also finished up my ships wheel.
 Not much to be said the pictures say it all. the cuts were made with a 1 mm end mill bit then finished with a file.
 The very first picture shows the outline for the aft hatch which I spent considerable time measuring, marking and double checking..............even though it was perfectly square and centred I had to erase all of it as this is the bow     . Things got better after this, glad I didn't start to cut. The deck has one coat of poly now on it and will get two or three more
Enjoy
 









 
 
 All deck furniture and masts are just sitting in their places, nothing is permanently fixed yet.
 
Have a Good Evening 

And finally the last of my updates, this first one is showing block and bracket installed for bowsprit
 

 
This one is showing a piece I missed on the plans, rather important as it supports the rudder
 

 
All the masts (full length is not in picture), bowsprit and spars are made.Some of the rigging is complete, the lower spars have a bit of a complicated rigging with a traveller and also a mouse of sorts
 

 
A close up of the aft lower spar showing the rigging
 

 
Masts are just temporally put together for picture 

 
That's about it for this update, all plans for being outside are on hold as we are getting snow today so I'm hoping to have a productive day in shipyard, after laundry and dishes are done
 You all Have a good day and Thanks so much for stopping in

Thanks to all for stopping by, for your likes and gracious comments. Almost a month since last update and I have accomplished some.
First up is making some oar locks:
 

 
From left to right: kit supplied one, outline on rosewood board, initial cutting on mill, after sanding on disc sander and final product
 

 
Pins installed in bottoms and a coat of WOP (two extra to cover breakage)
 

 
The Trabaccolo has two fittings unique to herself and the Brazzera. These are both belaying points, one style for the halyards and the other for the stays
 


 
The finished product
 

 
For the stays
 

 
And for the halyards, one at the mizzen and one at fore mast
 

Hey everyone, I hope you are all enjoying the weekend. Thanks to all for stopping, for your likes and comments.
 Today's update is showing the catheads and anchors. I realise it is a bit early for the anchors but I couldn't resist the urge to see how they would look, they can be easily removed if required.
 

This is a practice cathead, just to get the fit, angles and dimensions right. This is just 6 x 6 mm basswood, the final product is made from 6 x 6 mm rosewood. The holes and simulated sheaves were made on the mill using a 1 mm end mill cutter.
 

 
I am just showing for those who haven't done this before how I install the anchors. A line is put through the eye on the cathead pulled through, doubled over itself forming a loop, wrapped around itself(three times in this case) and then fed through the loop 
 

Pull both ends to tighten seizing 
 

 Then move seizing up into place
 

 There is a hook stropped to the double block. The line is then fed through block and sheave in cathead and finally belayed to a cleat. The rope around the anchor shaft has a thimble seized in it. Rope is wrapped around the shaft and belayed to the kinighthead.
 

I didn't care for how loose the line through the cathead and block was so I painted the line with diluted pva glue and added the tweezers for weight
 

This is the final result. The anchor rope is from Syren that has been dyed from tan to brown. All other rope used is kit supplied, The hook on the block needs some touching up...as does some of the other some of the other paint by looking at these close ups
 

And a shot from inboard
 

 Finally a picture of the tool I use to make hooks with. I found this here on MSW some time ago and I can't remember the fellow's name but I surely thank him as it works great.

Hello all, here is a quick update on the Trabaccolo not much has happened but I'll show what little there is:
 


 
Making chainplates, these were soldered afterwords. Then holes punched using a broken 1mm end mill bit
 

 
Brackets were made for channels, plans did not ask for them but I thought they would be a nice addition these and the channels are made from rosewood
 


 
Making of the oars
 

 
Brackets for the back stays
 


 
A couple of shots showing channels with dead eyes installed and also the back stay brackets. Brackets and chain plates still need to be touched up with some paint, I 'm waiting until all metal work is done to do it all at once.
 


 
Just a couple of fun shots
 

 
Made these yesterday not fancy or pretty but they will soon be filled with rope made on my new Domanoff ropewalk The one on the right in the front row is the one I copied from
 

Thanks to everyone for stooping in, for your likes and of course all the great comments even You(Mike Shanks). Today is going to be a beautiful day outside so this is just going to be a quick update before I head out side to work up a thirst. Actually it is so nice I'm thirsty already!! So lets get this going
 
First up is just another way of stropping/seizing a block with a becket, here I am using the Domanoff serving machine.
 

 
As this was just for demonstration purposes I will make another one with a 7mm triple that I can actually use 
 
This is the mizzen mast with various rigging, not yet permanently attached
 
 
 
This the fore mast
 
One of the trestle trees, notice how my nails turned brown in the blackening solution. Only me and my crazy luck
 

 
I apologise for the poor picture but I was just trying to show my plumb bob for truing the masts and the proper use of a can of mushrooms, magnet and square
 

 
Here are some outside shots showing the masts stepped. Top mast is not on permanent. Checkout the rope at the bottom of the mast, I'm not sure if this is something exclusive to the Trabaccolo but it is kind of cool. I should have taken pictures of this process but it is three separate coils of 1.25 mm rope followed by two more on top of that then one more at the very top
 

 
As you can see it is beautiful day here so I am going for a shower then grabbing a cool one getting on the golf cart with some tunes and get to work watching the leaves grow. Fridge is full so come on over, supposed to be 28 today that spells cold beer in Celsius or Fahrenheit
You all have a great day and an awesome weekend
 
See You Later 

Today I gave myself a big list of things to do including dentist, grocery shopping, 5 acres of grass to cut then finish with completing and installing the rudder. If successful I promised myself a bbq steak and a trip to the liqueur cabinet( trying to follow EJ's footsteps) Well steak is still the fridge yet but there have been a couple of trips to the infamous cabinet, all jobs completed!!!!! 
 I realise there is a little overkill with pictures on this post, I feel there is never too many pictures when it comes to the rigging aspect of a build so please bear with me.
 


 
 This what the task was for today. Top picture showing the rudder and the next picture showing the rigging for the tiller.

Pieces for the rudder, straps made from 3 mm copper strip
 

 
Still needs painting, this is showing the bottom bracket and bar mounted on hull the top bracket and bar is then mounted on the rudder. Receiving bracket is then mounted on hull at top and on rudder at the bottom. A much easier process, I love it!!
 
 The tiller being rigged with 4 mm double blocks. Seizing is done using Gutermann thread readily available, wide assortment of colours and measures approximately .18 mm
 
 
Blocks and rope for rudder, 4mm blocks .5 mm rope and eyebolts all kit supplied, used approx 50 mm of rope for each. It is the same set up for the tiller with the exception of the eyebolt, a hook is used instead.
 


 
Showing rigging of the tiller, the use of hooks helps so much. Here I am showing running the rope through the blocks before attaching the hook to eyebolt in bulwark.
 

 

 
I will adjust that block after I'm done here. The plans do not show any sort of belaying point so I am assuming  coils of rope will be needed below the tiller later on. I have read the rope was wrapped around the tiller first to allow the helmsman to make adjustments??????
 

 
This is what the ship's cat might see. 
 
You all Take Care,  
Thanks for stopping in. 
 
 
 

Thanks to all for stopping in, for your comments and for all the likes. Got a little more done in the last two days mainly the ship's stove is now installed complete with a stockpile of firewood and an axe. The pump was also made and installed, this is a little kit included with the package, I think it looks pretty good. It came with 3 mm copper strapping for the bands, however, I replaced that with some card stock
 

 
 Hope you enjoy, have a good evening

I agree Jean-Pierre, same thing has happened to me.I now have my shipyard set up so that when the liquor cabinet door opens the shipyard door automatically closes and locks. 

Popeye, in my post 506, the plan is showing the starboard side with blocks, this is why I thought both sides had them and didn't bother to look any further. Blocks are above the water line
 
Mike, I like the looks too even though it is not right

Thanks Ian, I hope your holiday was a good one and I'll be watching for some updates

I agree Jean-Pierre, same thing has happened to me.I now have my shipyard set up so that when the liquor cabinet door opens the shipyard door automatically closes and locks. 

She looks marvellous EJ. Pour yourself one of your favourites, you have earned it!

Should be a interesting build. Looks like it is copper plated,are these supplied? Looks cool

It was brought to my attention by a good friend of mine, Zoran, that I did the rigging on the rudder a little wrong. I went back to the plans and sure enough what I have done is not the same as what is shown
 

 
 As you can see the plans show only a rope on the port side tied to the rudder and on mine I have blocking on both sides. Now I know my way is wrong and not historically correct, however, I'm thinking in real life this rudder is almost 17 feet long, 4 feet at it's widest point and 6 inches thick. Given these dimensions this rudder would have weighed a ton (figure of speech) and raising it in shallow waters would have been some feat of strength. I'm thinking why not give this crew all the advantage possible and let them have a four block system Or should it be done the right way? Given the temperature today and this problem I am considering a trip to the refreshment fridge. Please help, or better yet come over for a cool one
 

Should be a interesting build. Looks like it is copper plated,are these supplied? Looks cool

Thanks Ian, I hope your holiday was a good one and I'll be watching for some updates