Laurence_B

some news:

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
that's all

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that's all guy's

i realized the duck boards and also the toilets
 
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hello all!
 
here is some news from my royal caroline:
 
 
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i used to start  the doors on  the deck
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hi all!
 
here is my new ship build kit the royal caroline
i try with this kit to rebuild all that is not include in the kit  like some sculptures and détail
i post some picture:
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 
 
 
here is where i am with this ship....
 
 
 
 

Loving your model means MUCH more than only pampering it on ones lap ...
 
 
Even though it can be difficult to be on holidays with the small ones.   - Are we already there? - I have to do pipi! - I am Hungry! - I am bored!   *bitchingaround*   But this has not to be like this! The trick is to get the small ones interested into the trip and get them enthusiastic about it. With a little bit of commitment it is not that tricky ...   ... so I showed my small one the landcape ...     ...explained where I was the day before ...     ... and promised to take her there the day she will be big enough.     Also zoos are a winner ...     ... she especially liked the two rheas.   Or just doing a bit of sport together ...     ... ping-pong was the favorite ...   ... but the most important ...     ... was  ...     ... just to spend time together ...     ... telling stories ...     ... about god the universe and everything ...     ... and both of us already found a good and relaxing sleep together :-)   It is a tough and responsible job to be a good ship-dad, but I hope that I am on the right way, are you too?   Cheers, Daniel

All frames are swan. 
 

 
The seven frames of the centersection with glued floor timbers.
 

 
To assemble the Frames I use this jig.
 

 
 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
I like this vessel. 
I have to order my copy of the plans and book.

Nice work... but...

Your stern... and hull.

Are you sure it has to run straight? Most of the ship has diagonal hull. It used to give extra strength for a stern.

As per img below... I think it should be like this.



Kind regards,
Mateusz

Keel and stems are in place.   There were some pieces of wood, therefore I have made the rudder of it.
 

 
sawn
 

 
sanded
 

 
Next step was to mortise the  timber transoms in place, and planking the square tuck. In addition, this work should be made well before planking.
 

 
to model the Wing transom was a nice and fiddly job.
 

 
The finished square tuck
 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Keith,
 
First of all, I'm in Taiwan, don't know if you guys count me as part of China, but if you ask me, I will tell you "no, we are not part of China".
 
Back to your question, this distributor is famous in China...
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5.w4002-76623614.20.9tdfwZ&id=18442376569
 
Actually, you don't need to worry if they won't send it out after you made a payment, because Tao-Bao has a feature, they put your payment as a deposit in their account, you can decide to transfer it to distributor once you received your kits, if distributor won't send it out, the money will return to you after certain period of time.
 
Besides, yes, there are lots of pirated kits in China, and quality is not good, but this one 1:30 Royal Caroline seems not, correct me if I'm wrong...., here has some more pictures on a forums in China.
http://www.4hmodel.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=14415&extra=page%3D1
 
I don't think Tao-Bao has English version website at this time.
Besides, if you are in US, they can ship it by SF Express, this is one of biggest express company in China.
http://www.sf-express.com/us/en/
but I don't know if they can send it to other country.
 
For your information.
 
Tony

Copper plate & bolting on the keel
 
Thank you friends as always. ;-)
 
Horse shoe and fish tail copper plates were attached on the both sides of the keel. Brass wire was used to fix them on the keel. After finishing bolting work, keel, frame and outside planking strakes were oiled with the mixture of linseed oil and turpentine oil.
 
Cheers,
 
Lee

Stern planking and fitting of cathead, channel, shot racks...nailing and bolting...
 
Many thanks friends for the warm words and likes.
 
Now, I'm on the way of nailing to the wale with brass wire. Nail heads will be blackened later.
 
Cheers, Lee

Mark, it would be fully planked from one side (no poly there) and fully opened from another side (even no wales).
This is the model that I used as a reference:

Speaking of a fully framed models - a friend of mine visited an interesting project today - 1:1 reconstruction of Poltava, 1712 ship, partially designed by Russian tsar, Peter I, who studied shipbuilding in Holland. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_ship_of_the_line_Poltava_(1712)
The site is located in St.Petersburg, Russia.
Pretty interesting to see, looks very close to that build logs, and nearly-round shape of the hull make it look like Triton
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

I think they're too big. inside diameter is ~9.5mm whereas mast is 6mm at base tapered to 4mm at crosstrees. I think they should be ~8mm inner diameter? Thoughts? I don't want to glue the boom support before I get these right.

So, I've been having a couple really small craft store bottles lying around the hobby area for quite some time not knowing what to do with them. The body of the bottles are roughly 25mm high and I bought the bottles on a whim because I found them adorable.
 
A couple days ago I got an idea; why not make a ship in a bottle from one of them?
 
I haven't gotten far on the build but I did manage to do a bunch before I realised I wanted to log it so there aren't many pictures on the prep work nor on the initial stages, but the hull is simply ice cream sticks held together by two tooth pick plugs. 
 

 
I made the rudder and the balcony by sanding a piece of wood and then dousing it in super glue to make it able to withstand the force of filing and cutting the pieces to shape.
 

 
I tried fitting the tip od a needle as a front mast but I'm still not convinced it feels ok scale-wise.
 

 
Today I gave her railings and some hull details made from brass etch sprues(or whatever it is actually called when it has nothing to do with injection moulding) that I had lying about.
 


 
I might have to dye the wood if I'm going to keep working with brass, it definitely doesn't combine well on camera.
 
Also, I've started contemplating not making it a bottled ship but instead just go crazy on details. I'm feeling a little torn there.
 
 

Different angles and close ups.

Creating the leeboards.  For the modelers that do not what a leeboard is, the following is an explanation.  
A leeboard is a lifting foil used by a sailboat, much like a centerboard, but located on the leeward side of the boat. The leeward side is used so that the leeboard is not lifted from the water when the boat heels, or leans under the force of the wind.

Railing completed as well as the hull, deck and started on the cabin.  The parts on that is soft metal.

OK, here's a few shots taken this morning before I head out to Wilmington to see the Spanish Galleon docked there this week.
Port side view.... all rails now installed.

Starboard side view....better view of the rails.

View of the new bulkheads created for the Quarterdeck and Poop Deck.

The next two shots show the belfry just completed this morning.

Thanks to all likes and to Patrick and Ioannis.
 
After I had finished sanding work I gluede in the keelsom to stabilise the frames. 
 

 
Marking the position of the upper wals
 

 

 
Next step: the stems and the keel
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
 
A small update... I've got some more of the deck fittings in place, and spent some time working on the starboard staircase. I've also started rigging the cannon (using some left over bits from Pickle. Given the larger scale of Caroline (1:47 rather than 1:64 for Pickle), and the larger size of the cannon (over the tiny carronades on Pickle), it seems a shame not to rig them fully. Anyway, here's how it's going so far. I made a jig, and so far I've only got two rigged up - it's amazingly time-consuming. I haven't tied off any of the ropes yet, so there's a certain spaghetti quality to the whole thing, but hopefully the pictures make sense.
 

 

 

 
Eyelets in deck ready for rigging cannon

 

 

 

 

 
48 x 2mm blocks, 56 x eyelets, 24 x hooks, 16 x rings later and it's just a case of finishing putting them together... More pictures soon
 
Happy building
 
Rob

Hi,
 
It's time to start my second build log on ModelShipWorld.com.
 
As I won't be starting this build from scratch, I guess a little explanation is in order.
 
My father started this model, and built it to the point shown below, where the hull decorations were mainly in place, and the deck furniture was mainly built, if not fitted. He passed away in January 2013, and I felt it would be a terrible shame for the model to be left unfinished. The challenge was to get some of the skills necessary to attempt to finish such a kit, so I started with something smaller.
 
For those interested, you can see how I got on here with Caldercraft's HM Schooner Pickle (HM Schooner Pickle.)
 
Anyway, I finished that kit a few days ago, and now I'm ready to begin work on Caroline.
 
Here's a picture of Caroline before I started work (except to go over her with a soft brush to get the dust off)
 

 
You can see a number of the fittings next to the bow.
 
The first evening's work was to go through the plans carefully and try and get my head around what had been done and what hadn't. I was immediately struck by how sparse the instructions are. Compared to Pickle which guides you through the rigging step by step with great care, the instructions for Caroline stop once you've put the deck furniture on, and just point you to the plans. Thankfully I'll be able to draw on the many excellent resources on this website, and my experience with Pickle.
 
Secondly was that the plans are printed on both sides, and so some time was spent sellotaping the plans back together where they had worn so thin they were in pieces.
 
Once this was done, I was ready to start fitting deck furniture (which had been pre-assembled off the model by my father). An emotional process, but it's lovely to see it start coming together.
 
Photos of progress so far are below:
 
Cleats at the bow, fitted:
 

 
Capstan, fitted, although I'm not very happy with the gap between the capstan base and the deck, so this will be gently refitted...
 

 
The support for the flag pole...
 

 
Steps...
 

 
And then, just for the fun of it, I dry-fitted some of the other fittings just to give me an idea of how they would fit onto the deck side by side... (cannon, ships-boat supports, etc..) - all of these are dry-fitted (and now I look at it, the sled for the ship's boat is upside-down!)
 

 
Sorry about the state of the photos, but it will give a rough idea.
 
Anyway. Happy building, thanks for looking, and I hope to be back with an update very soon.
 
Rob