Laurence_B

Thanks  guys!!!
 
The next deck beam with the frameing of the staircase. ( on a trial basis)  And the wallpaper of the fireplace wall in the Great Cabin
 

 
 

 
Regards Hartmut

Many thanks to all!
 
Next job was modelling the cabin doors.
 
To make the door handles was no big problem. I did solder a 1mm brasswire into a 2mm brasstube.
 

 
One of the cabin doors
 

 

 
 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Thanks for all the Likes!!    
 
Next step: modelling the alcoves walls in the Great Cabin.
 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 

Thanks for all the positive comments and likes they are really appreciated.
I just got home from the Hospital, Judy is improving.
This morning i had a little time before heading into Edmonton to work on the skylight. I created a crude jig on a sheet of paper with a couple of blocks stuck down with some masking tape. This was to enable working on the light while temporarily attached with the glue. 
 
When the lights were opened up one of the temporary glue joints let go so I started the hole drilling with the hinge that was still glued to ensure that the position of the light remained fixed relative to the ridge and central divider between the lights.
 

 
Because of the set up angle I was able to drill the holes for the rivets in the lights.
 

 
The rivets were pressed in and then glued with some thin Acc glue
 

 
After completing the lights on the first side I set it up to see how they looked......not good they did not sit down fully
 

 
This was one of those moments that had intuitively crossed my mind earlier when making the slots for the hinges in the top ridge. one of the thoughts was to set the hinges into the ridge the full depth of the folded hinge to eliminate the hassle of getting the notches perfect on the lights. It also allowed the lights to seat up fully well almost fully to the ridge.
 
The thing that I had completely failed to really understand was the minute amount of the rivet heads was enough to prevent the hinges from fully closing....what to do?  the hinges were set with pins and glued. I decided to deal with this later and made a change with the second side. The change involved setting up the lights so that the hinges could be mounted so that from the top when the light were closed thee looked clean, but that they would be slightly open underneath to allow for the heads.
 
The second side was drilled as the first side and the countersinks were made just a little larger then the hinges were unglued with a number 11 blade after marking their positions.
 

 
Then using the jewelers saw I cut them back at an angle from the topside to the bottom side.
 

 
then using the #11 I removed the slight wedge and cleaned it up with a needle file.
 

 
The next pic shows the one on the right has been modified and the one on the left is next to be done.
 

 
After fitting the first one and testing it to see if my fix would work I was satisfied that it would.
 

 
Then completed the second one, all that remains is to un-glue the well glued ones that I did first. the next pic shows the lights seated down fully on the second set.
 

 
Moral of the story... do a test first! but then you all knew that didn't you
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello Laurence, and welcome to my  blog. Thank you for the kind words and the cool picture. I am using the Mamoli plans as I am sure you have seen in my posted pics and notes, but their plans have several major errors, which is one reason I am building mine from scratch. Good luck to you on your build and I will have to make a visit to your boat yard to see your progress.
 
Brian

Looks a great project.I look forward to hearing more.
I'm building the Mamoli kit of the Yacht Mary,and have nearly finished the hull.
Found this image online of a model of the yacht,built by Robert Spence many years ago,and now housed at Trinity House,London.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/69223798@N03/14226543172/in/album-72157644746542821/
Hope it is of interest and good luck with your build.

Looks a great project.I look forward to hearing more.
I'm building the Mamoli kit of the Yacht Mary,and have nearly finished the hull.
Found this image online of a model of the yacht,built by Robert Spence many years ago,and now housed at Trinity House,London.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/69223798@N03/14226543172/in/album-72157644746542821/
Hope it is of interest and good luck with your build.

Looks a great project.I look forward to hearing more.
I'm building the Mamoli kit of the Yacht Mary,and have nearly finished the hull.
Found this image online of a model of the yacht,built by Robert Spence many years ago,and now housed at Trinity House,London.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/69223798@N03/14226543172/in/album-72157644746542821/
Hope it is of interest and good luck with your build.

Well my followers, I am sorry that I have been gone for so long. Doing all the fun "adult" stuff and with some screwy hours and setbacks. Getting back on the horse again, and slowly making progress on Mary.
 
Had to rebuild half the keel, got that done and also painted now.
 
Mostly have been making frames for the ribs of the hull. In the enclosed photo you will see a nearly completed stern plate that will be mounted to the keel after I re-install the deadwood.

So as promised I am posting some pictures for you all to see of my progress. Using the examples of Bernard Frolich, I attempted to make the same posts he shows in his book The Art of Ship Modeling, and they were literally a royal pain to screw down onto the building board. Also enclosed is a close up of the dead-board under construction, and the stern plates with the first of the sections for the false cannon ports.

Thank you gentlemen for your kind comments. Here are the pictures as requested, Tarbrush. I felt so close to finally being able to have the stern transom installed when realized the mistake. But as they say, better to catch early than to catch too late. Before I glued the deadwood in the other day, a piece of the tip broke off, which thankfully in ways goes well with the stern installation, but still need a tiny piece that broke off that you might see in the pics.

Progress from the ol' boatyard. The first of the hull frames is officially in place. Today glued in the deadwood and first of the stern templates. The boat builders are reported to have celebrated with a little white wine, despite how late the yacht is in building progress. But we will keep a secret about this from His Majesty the king for now. Inserts wicked grin of delight.
 
Peace out!
 
Brian

Hi all,
A couple of small details, finished the ash bin and tiller.  The ash bin was just painted and had a few pieces of Coal glued in...the tiller took a little more effort, I noticed the kit came with two, why, I'm not sure but I decided to use them both...I glued them together in the center only...then did some shaping to create as S shaped tiller instead of a straight one, pics follow:

 
the finished ash bin
 

two tillers

only glue in the center

Layout...X marks the cut-offs

Shaping with xacto and sandpaper
 

Final shaping with 320 grit...still needs some finish, probably just some natural stain and poly
 
 

Hello Amateur!
To model the Cupboard will be a little bit fiddly. But the the delftware????? But wait and see!
 
A little update for today: the benches and the table:
 

 
And now bench one and the table in position.
 

 

 
Bench two stowed and safeted on bench one.
 

 
Regards Hartmut
 
 
 
 

And the delftware in the cupboard?

Thanks for all the positive comments and other feedback.
 
I made a start on the hinges, they are cut from .010" brass sheet. scales out to roughly .078 which is 14 gauge sheet. which seems reasonable enough.
 
the strip was annealed by heating to red and then quenching in water, I could have let it cool down on its own and would have the same result.
 
then it was folded over on itself in the milling vice with a length of .032" steel rod to support the rounded portion after the fold was nearly complete I set the folded metal so that as the vice squeezed the brass it pushed the steel rod upwards to form the full round, similar to what we do when we wrap a piece of paper around a dowel and then pinch it to become tight our finger slide a little as the paper closes together.
 

 
A couple of pieces were cut off using the jewelers saw with a #7 blade the finest I have. The notches were filed out with needle files with some brass .032 rod inside as support.
next I used the jewelers saw to cut off the folded flap close to the rounded portion, in order to lessen the flex of the blade I shortened the throat of the saw to  approx  3 inches.
 

 
 
Once all the rest are cut and assembled I will use the drill press to drill and countersink the holes. Just 7 more to go.
 

 
Gee the close ups are brutal they show every flaw.
 
The pieces were assembled and then squared up with a 6 inch  #4 flat file 
 
Michael
 
 

Hi Michael - 
 
Really nice hinges.  I used a similar method to make working hinges for the companionway door of a yacht America model some time ago.  I do not have your skill with a jeweler's saw, so I used a length of soft iron wire inside to form the hinge barrels, and then cut straight through the whole thing with a metal cutting blade in the Preac.  I think they came out pretty well.
 

 

 
Either great minds think alike, or fools rarely differ, whichever one applies.  :-))
 
Dan
 
 

Got the mainmast shrouds all set up I did a better job of measuring and don't think any will come up short this time.
Rigging is a slow process, but I'm getting better. getting these lines ready took half the time the the foremast took and I think they look better.
 

Mark, I would also add to David's list is ship modelling from stem to stern, published by Roth, invaluable with the amount of information, tips and guides.
 
The thing with this model, it seems a strange model for Sergal to have adopted, limited history so limited information available.
 
When captured from the French she was classed as a frigate, she had 3 masts, the third mast was removed by the Royal Navy and the vessel re classed.
 
The plans can be contradictory so bear watching, to be honest I gave up on the instructions and have built in general straight off the plans.
 
I don't understand the capstan on the poop deck, why would you run the anchor hawse the full length of the ship, most ships of this type appear to have had a horizontal capstan arrangement at the forward end.
 
The brass window inserts I ditched as they looked terrible.
 
When attaching the dead eyes, pre drill, cut the length of the pins, these are too long and can cause no end of heart ache.
 
Scratch built the window frames
 

 

 
Dead eyes attached to Chanel and start rigging the shrouds
 

 
Fore end rigging, use of brass eyes instead of the spades.
 

 

 

 

 
As you may have noticed the rigging looks different to the picture on the box, I wanted contrast.
All the brown rigging is carried out with 1.0mm thread at the moment, including the gammoning of the bowsprit, that's the term if you aren't familiar with the binding of the bowsprit.
 
Despite the time invested I nearly tore into this and rebuilt as the Grenado, lots of info available, but, I am using this as a training excessive for the Victory, which is waiting patiently for me to build on completion of this one.
 
Will be a couple of weeks before any more progress but feel free to ask if I can give any pointers at any time.

More little stuff:

 
Test fitting all the subs


 

Shot of the torpedo painted out
 

All the subs painted and weathered(dry brushed)
 

 

The coal, mixed some gloss black to airbrush consistency and stirred in the ground asphalt
 

loaded bin
 

 

start of the ash bin, idea from Tim I...thx Tim
 

ready for paint
 
That's all for now, thx for looking in

And glue some sticks

Small update...started to plumb the sub-assemblies, before I did that I practiced with Blacken-it and got the elbows done, you can see there is not much difference in them and the parts I painted, so the finishes will be a combination of the two.  
 
A lot of the steam and water lines are supposed to terminate at the deck, to simulate running under the deck boards.  I kinda thought if the lines ran under the deck there should be holes for them to enter and exit and they would be a bit larger then the pipes themselves...so I proceeded to trial fit all the subs and mark where the lines should be, drilled the holes and painted the insides black.
 
All the plumbing was left longer than required so the pipes disappear into the holes...
 
That's it for now, thanks for all the likes and the time and attention, Pic's follow:

Paint and Blacken-it, pretty close in color

scale plumbing

plumbing the boiler...note the extra length

hot box and condenser

plumbed

holes in the deck

This is the hot box test fit, you can see how the pipes will disappear "under" the deck boards

Druxey, Bob, Ian, Steve, thanks for your positive comments, and all who pressed the like button.
 
I finished rough sanding the four lights and am starting to work on the cleats with the bars that protects the Lexan.
 

 
after cutting the cleats they were drilled with an .046 drill to accept some 3/64th brass rod 3/8 scale size.
 

 
the cleats were then given an initial shaping, by stacking them on foundation with 2 sided tape to sand them
 

 
after assembling the first one the bars looked a bit small so I up sized them to 1/2 inch (1/16) but did not want to re-drill the holes. after cutting the copper tube to length I inserted some 1/32 brass rod in each end and gave the tube a gentle squeeze with some round nosed pliers to hold the rods in place.
 

 

 
I am thinking that the copper looks better anyway.
 
Michael

John, Pete, thanks for following along and all who have visited and liked what I am doing.
 
In order to be able to set in the Lexan after every thing is varnished I needed to be able to fix the cleats with the bars afterwards, fortunately I had some very small brass flat head wood screws, I purchased them from Lee Valley
page 203 they are #0 x 1/4
Step 1 was to make a small self centering awl for transferring the hole position to the cleat. I used a bit of 3/16 steel hex stock I had on the rack.
 

 
after they were marked I used the same awl to make the indent larger for the #60 drill
 

 
the next pic shows all the tools for setting the holes.
 

 
I did have to countersink the frames so that the screws had enough purchase on the cleats I did this with #33 drill just twirled it between my fingers.
 

 
seems to hold well enough.
 

 

 
one down three more to go 

Hi all,
  A small update on the boiler construction...started off by applying the brass parts to the boiler doors, just pre-bent and attached with ca per the kit instructions, you'll notice them are still brass in the first pic...I've gone with a painted finish on most of the the metal parts.  I tried Blacken-it but had no luck, I'm gonna have to practice with that stuff.
 
   Anyway, I decided to construct the sight tube from some clear tubing I have in the junk box, so a piece was cut to the appropriate length and test fit...the fittings will receive a trim later.
 
  The boiler itself was up next, I wanted to continue the theme of a lightly weathered look so I applied a dark wash to the boiler and steam dome sub-assemblies, these parts were then sealed with natural Min-wax stain and left to dry...then all was sanded with 220 grit to expose some lighter sections.  Its a technique I've used before...(applique armor on WW2 Shermans) and works pretty well.
 
  The bands were added to the boiler subs and the steam dome top added, and the stand parts added.  Still have some touch up painting and dry brushing to do, but that's all for today. Pics follow, as always thanks for your time and attention: