ioannis

It may be that you have to convert your pictures to jpg before they can be viewed on this site.
 
Tony

Ioannis,
 
Have a look here for how to post pictures:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/   If you are typing the text in Word and pasting it into MSW, just paste in the text only and then follow the instructions on how to add the pictures.

Nice start to the cutter Ioannis. I look forward to watching it progress.

Nice build Ioannis,
 
wish you further much fun and success with this scratch-built cutter...
 
Nils

Dear forum and modelers
Scratch build ABYTHISTOS –French 1784- was really a dream for me.
The building Idea has come 3 years ago while me and my son were watching photos and video from R/c models, and old time ships.
Yea I used to have a 2 mast wooden ship but I was not the builder ,I knew how to sail her how paint her and repair any engine easy damage but build one? how do we start? …sure from keel but then?…
Thanks to all people on this forum that keep on writing giving ideas tips solutions, and answers
I have spend almost a month reading and watching your articles and tips before I decide to build my project
I have found scanned on the internet a collection of plans
Easy to imagine .Difficult to build ?
What wood or other material to use for a certain part on the ship on the other hand. from where do we start? A plan to begin and a thought how is going to be at the end?
manual skills required patents
and ingenuity but most of all, patience
A cutter, nice curves with single deck one mast and less construction details comparison with a warship


CUTTERS de 4 CARONADE de 12 [1784]

I have acquired a set of plans body, sheer ,half breadth to start plus a general plan for riggings I choose enlarge photo method you can alter plans to any size you desire, then copy to a memory stick and, you have as much copies as you need for photo copying
But important point ,the lines on the original drawing must be very fine



MODEL SPECIFICATIONS
NAME -ABYTHISTOS-
LOA:0.73 cm bowsprit included
LBP:0.44 cm
MAX,BREADTH :0.17,5cm
MAST HEIGHT measured from deck roof :0.65 cm
Bowsprit length:0.21 cm
DRAFT Keel to white waterline :0.15 cm ,
Water line to upper deck top rail :0.10cm
Watertight compartments 3
1 electric motor 6v , 1 gig LOA 0.10cm
4 Sails./ 2 anchors continental type18th century/
1 French gun x18pounder


First day I bought various strait pieces of wood and finally
After watching a lot of dif ships plans I decided the cutter
The build method I used I call it COPY-PASTE

Choosing the keel, a strait piece of wood [beam]0.80 mm thick

Lots of calculations with Microsoft world program till I reduce the plan dimensions from the original minimize to the desired plan and also couple of photocopies I will need them to cut and glue on wood pieces so I have exactly similarity according to original ships plans

More building details I took also from other similar cutter ships

KEEL assemblage


The backbone of the whole ship. It also includes the rudder post and the stem mounted together with glue and a dowel
Small angle pieces of wood vertical installed on keel as floor will secure in place the ribs-frames.


Keel assemblage procedure finished
next step I made an adjustable keel holder using a baseboard and 2 aluminum angle to snug the keel as picture below




Tips
I made my own carpenters wood saw machine simply and cheap way without limits
I used an electrical hand saw with RPM adjustment
And screw it at the 4 hole edges of its base as photo below

Mine has open holes at the metal basein case there are not in yours just remove the base [allen screw usually used]and make the necessary holes with your drill

Tightly fasten with screw or chuck the two ends of an angle iron or wood ,parallel to blade and set your cutting mm distance according to desired

There are 2 types of blade Choose long blades. And For hard wood try iron blade and not the blade type for wood REMEMBER start slowly with low RPM don’t rush and .in case of hard wood also lubricate the blade with oil drops.[i use a wet with transparent -no cooking- oil
piece of cloth] You may destroy the first wood piece till you find the better way but when you do you will be rewarded
…sand paper will do the rest
and don’t forget to remove wood dust close to blade after, use
I have not used plank from storehouse Timber balsa wood is soft and fragile for planking
unknown behavior to sea water
Seawater ?
Yes me and my son wanted to sail with
So I need harder and good quality wood
Dry furnished Pitch pine medium hard long fibred tough doesn’t break easily with the tip I mention before I manage to cut several 2mm thick planking

good white glue quality 2 types express and waterproof

FRAMES

Making frames copy paste method with cheap plywood…
A keyhole saw is good for accurate plywood cutting
A triangle piece of plywood has been removed from the interior of each frame so I can freely move my fingers between
George my son came forward as volunteer to help me cut out frames –piece of cake- he said.
Well he did well but I had to cut 4 pieces twice due to his badly cut

The above picture 7 shows how does the frame look like after I have cut them to right size
With some careful sanding the resulting pieces are nice and accurate
On the same picture 7 you can see the frame on top and middle of witch I drilled a hole [blue arrow]
CENTER LINE
I have discovered a new method to connect frame with keel
Picture below –a long machine screw will connect at middle all frames top

Assembling the stern with frames most difficult for me
Due to the curvature


stern has been cutted for propeller use

even my wife’s clothespin in use


Plank on frame
Plank bending has been made with the simply way of ,wetting them first
And place them later bowing and buckling on the wooden board with rustproof nails
Holding the plank in position on the model while the glue dries is a test for my nerve


by the way thats my roof garden next to my small workshop
Some who favored the old ships
Thats from today ,during my trip i met this yacht waiting outside Hydra island Greece
a little further away and meeting her you can see the sailors up in masts
well thats  enough for today i have lots of things to do more .I must work my  solar oven also.
 
Im back
uffff..... in every step i must think about leaving space for servos motor shaft how to set up steering.Never did it again.The whole building is in my mind ,but next steps have been made longer
 
After placing frames things are getting better with hull planking. When job finish plywood frames will be removed and replaced by real wood pieces

Planking, clean work pleasant time lots of pinball holes

 
A small sandpaper machine will give a fine surface
 
Looks a bit ugly but timber is 2 mm thick,this ship is going to meet poseidon at see water so must avoid any bending
 
 
Picture below showing
Extra strength
Small plywood supports have been set vertical between frames [as guides and stoppers] to avoid movements

Patience and ..planking finished
 Before I remove plywood frames I replaced them with new 2mm thick ribs made of curved solid wood [blue arrows picture above]
I did glue them tight to inner hull planking

Hull has completely covered by planking
I m starting to remove Plywood frames.Τhe inner part must be clear.
Now I have free space enough for motor shaft servos steering

I have painted  the internal with first a coat of white waterproof  glue and the next day a second coat of fat oil primer Before the  electric equipment  installation
 
The interior has been sealed’ I could also use polyester. 

Gives you hardness but also weight. 
Once I  made a small boat i used liquid polyester  it smells awful and also its hazardous
 
Patience
Now sitting on a chair I’m holding the ship on one hand
On the other hand a special bosh  electric tool  a handy multi sander
and rolling it slowly with low rpm in all around the sides
don’t forget wood planking is tough for this timber
last sanding and my hands replaced the tool by a very thin sand paper 180 grit so at the end of the day I had the desired smooth shape
Now I have got strength to continue
I will need to putty the body but that’s not urgent
I kept some wood dust I will need it later. to make my own colored putty
Hmm ,,midnight again and everybody on this house went to sleep  all ? no ..except..my partnerships  2westy dogs  watch carefully every step i do  Quiet.. time… to consider my next steps…
 
Deck construction
 
I forgot to mention that deck beam supports  of wood have been added at all around last upper planking
Beams will guide me and support the roof deck later
 
A plywood piece of 1.3mm thick took place as deck flat base on top of which I did glue with fine barbeque round wooden meat  sticks --wonderful result ideal for decks you may try it--
The special bosh multi sander with 100 grit first  180 later sand paper gave me the desired flat  deck surface ready  to varnish

 
Deck  divided in 2 pieces for reasons of installation servo..moteur,,battery 
 
Forward deck piece is 1/3 of the whole length glued to beams
Aft deck piece 2/3 of the total length can be easily remove
With 4 inox screw of 6mm
 

Time for putty and ballast keel
as ballast a weight of 1.2 kg 0.8mm thick long lead[yellow line under ship]
glued with epoxy and 3 inox screw under wooden keel
and under the lead a thin false keel 2mm has been added to protect the lead

 
RUDDER CONTRUCTION DETAILS
this plan showing how connected the steering wheel
[red letters -hole fore secure pin -]
                                              [orange letters-   inox tubes or hard plastic filled with grease-]
I know i post pure and  sort details but i always hurry to do something else and my hands are still covered with glue. CHEERS.

Dear forum and modelers
Scratch build ABYTHISTOS –French 1784- was really a dream for me.
The building Idea has come 3 years ago while me and my son were watching photos and video from R/c models, and old time ships.
Yea I used to have a 2 mast wooden ship but I was not the builder ,I knew how to sail her how paint her and repair any engine easy damage but build one? how do we start? …sure from keel but then?…
Thanks to all people on this forum that keep on writing giving ideas tips solutions, and answers
I have spend almost a month reading and watching your articles and tips before I decide to build my project
I have found scanned on the internet a collection of plans
Easy to imagine .Difficult to build ?
What wood or other material to use for a certain part on the ship on the other hand. from where do we start? A plan to begin and a thought how is going to be at the end?
manual skills required patents
and ingenuity but most of all, patience
A cutter, nice curves with single deck one mast and less construction details comparison with a warship


CUTTERS de 4 CARONADE de 12 [1784]

I have acquired a set of plans body, sheer ,half breadth to start plus a general plan for riggings I choose enlarge photo method you can alter plans to any size you desire, then copy to a memory stick and, you have as much copies as you need for photo copying
But important point ,the lines on the original drawing must be very fine



MODEL SPECIFICATIONS
NAME -ABYTHISTOS-
LOA:0.73 cm bowsprit included
LBP:0.44 cm
MAX,BREADTH :0.17,5cm
MAST HEIGHT measured from deck roof :0.65 cm
Bowsprit length:0.21 cm
DRAFT Keel to white waterline :0.15 cm ,
Water line to upper deck top rail :0.10cm
Watertight compartments 3
1 electric motor 6v , 1 gig LOA 0.10cm
4 Sails./ 2 anchors continental type18th century/
1 French gun x18pounder


First day I bought various strait pieces of wood and finally
After watching a lot of dif ships plans I decided the cutter
The build method I used I call it COPY-PASTE

Choosing the keel, a strait piece of wood [beam]0.80 mm thick

Lots of calculations with Microsoft world program till I reduce the plan dimensions from the original minimize to the desired plan and also couple of photocopies I will need them to cut and glue on wood pieces so I have exactly similarity according to original ships plans

More building details I took also from other similar cutter ships

KEEL assemblage


The backbone of the whole ship. It also includes the rudder post and the stem mounted together with glue and a dowel
Small angle pieces of wood vertical installed on keel as floor will secure in place the ribs-frames.


Keel assemblage procedure finished
next step I made an adjustable keel holder using a baseboard and 2 aluminum angle to snug the keel as picture below




Tips
I made my own carpenters wood saw machine simply and cheap way without limits
I used an electrical hand saw with RPM adjustment
And screw it at the 4 hole edges of its base as photo below

Mine has open holes at the metal basein case there are not in yours just remove the base [allen screw usually used]and make the necessary holes with your drill

Tightly fasten with screw or chuck the two ends of an angle iron or wood ,parallel to blade and set your cutting mm distance according to desired

There are 2 types of blade Choose long blades. And For hard wood try iron blade and not the blade type for wood REMEMBER start slowly with low RPM don’t rush and .in case of hard wood also lubricate the blade with oil drops.[i use a wet with transparent -no cooking- oil
piece of cloth] You may destroy the first wood piece till you find the better way but when you do you will be rewarded
…sand paper will do the rest
and don’t forget to remove wood dust close to blade after, use
I have not used plank from storehouse Timber balsa wood is soft and fragile for planking
unknown behavior to sea water
Seawater ?
Yes me and my son wanted to sail with
So I need harder and good quality wood
Dry furnished Pitch pine medium hard long fibred tough doesn’t break easily with the tip I mention before I manage to cut several 2mm thick planking

good white glue quality 2 types express and waterproof

FRAMES

Making frames copy paste method with cheap plywood…
A keyhole saw is good for accurate plywood cutting
A triangle piece of plywood has been removed from the interior of each frame so I can freely move my fingers between
George my son came forward as volunteer to help me cut out frames –piece of cake- he said.
Well he did well but I had to cut 4 pieces twice due to his badly cut

The above picture 7 shows how does the frame look like after I have cut them to right size
With some careful sanding the resulting pieces are nice and accurate
On the same picture 7 you can see the frame on top and middle of witch I drilled a hole [blue arrow]
CENTER LINE
I have discovered a new method to connect frame with keel
Picture below –a long machine screw will connect at middle all frames top

Assembling the stern with frames most difficult for me
Due to the curvature


stern has been cutted for propeller use

even my wife’s clothespin in use


Plank on frame
Plank bending has been made with the simply way of ,wetting them first
And place them later bowing and buckling on the wooden board with rustproof nails
Holding the plank in position on the model while the glue dries is a test for my nerve


by the way thats my roof garden next to my small workshop
Some who favored the old ships
Thats from today ,during my trip i met this yacht waiting outside Hydra island Greece
a little further away and meeting her you can see the sailors up in masts
well thats  enough for today i have lots of things to do more .I must work my  solar oven also.
 
Im back
uffff..... in every step i must think about leaving space for servos motor shaft how to set up steering.Never did it again.The whole building is in my mind ,but next steps have been made longer
 
After placing frames things are getting better with hull planking. When job finish plywood frames will be removed and replaced by real wood pieces

Planking, clean work pleasant time lots of pinball holes

 
A small sandpaper machine will give a fine surface
 
Looks a bit ugly but timber is 2 mm thick,this ship is going to meet poseidon at see water so must avoid any bending
 
 
Picture below showing
Extra strength
Small plywood supports have been set vertical between frames [as guides and stoppers] to avoid movements

Patience and ..planking finished
 Before I remove plywood frames I replaced them with new 2mm thick ribs made of curved solid wood [blue arrows picture above]
I did glue them tight to inner hull planking

Hull has completely covered by planking
I m starting to remove Plywood frames.Τhe inner part must be clear.
Now I have free space enough for motor shaft servos steering

I have painted  the internal with first a coat of white waterproof  glue and the next day a second coat of fat oil primer Before the  electric equipment  installation
 
The interior has been sealed’ I could also use polyester. 

Gives you hardness but also weight. 
Once I  made a small boat i used liquid polyester  it smells awful and also its hazardous
 
Patience
Now sitting on a chair I’m holding the ship on one hand
On the other hand a special bosh  electric tool  a handy multi sander
and rolling it slowly with low rpm in all around the sides
don’t forget wood planking is tough for this timber
last sanding and my hands replaced the tool by a very thin sand paper 180 grit so at the end of the day I had the desired smooth shape
Now I have got strength to continue
I will need to putty the body but that’s not urgent
I kept some wood dust I will need it later. to make my own colored putty
Hmm ,,midnight again and everybody on this house went to sleep  all ? no ..except..my partnerships  2westy dogs  watch carefully every step i do  Quiet.. time… to consider my next steps…
 
Deck construction
 
I forgot to mention that deck beam supports  of wood have been added at all around last upper planking
Beams will guide me and support the roof deck later
 
A plywood piece of 1.3mm thick took place as deck flat base on top of which I did glue with fine barbeque round wooden meat  sticks --wonderful result ideal for decks you may try it--
The special bosh multi sander with 100 grit first  180 later sand paper gave me the desired flat  deck surface ready  to varnish

 
Deck  divided in 2 pieces for reasons of installation servo..moteur,,battery 
 
Forward deck piece is 1/3 of the whole length glued to beams
Aft deck piece 2/3 of the total length can be easily remove
With 4 inox screw of 6mm
 

Time for putty and ballast keel
as ballast a weight of 1.2 kg 0.8mm thick long lead[yellow line under ship]
glued with epoxy and 3 inox screw under wooden keel
and under the lead a thin false keel 2mm has been added to protect the lead

 
RUDDER CONTRUCTION DETAILS
this plan showing how connected the steering wheel
[red letters -hole fore secure pin -]
                                              [orange letters-   inox tubes or hard plastic filled with grease-]
I know i post pure and  sort details but i always hurry to do something else and my hands are still covered with glue. CHEERS.

Well done Timmo.
In your tracks watching u

Well done so far.And surgeons like this do surgery
Have a look on this special minidrill

Well done Timmo.
In your tracks watching u

Well done so far.And surgeons like this do surgery
Have a look on this special minidrill

Well done so far.And surgeons like this do surgery
Have a look on this special minidrill

Well done Timmo.
In your tracks watching u

Well done so far.And surgeons like this do surgery
Have a look on this special minidrill

The boxing for the bulwarks and frames outlining gun and sweep ports is underway. The framing is 4.5mm timber which should be fairly strong by the time it is planked on both sides and glassed.

The cruizer will be cut free from its board once the central sections of both sides are framed and rigid. This will give better access to the bow section with its curved bulwark.

After a month of work on my new project it's at the stage where I suspect it might turn into something worth continuing so here it is...
 

 

 
A Cruizer class brig in 1:36 scale which is (hopefully) destined to be a working RC square rigged sailer.
I've kicked this project off before finishing the rigging on my current Granado build after seeing a few build logs and being filled with inspiration and a reckless confidence to simply have a go. It's a good vessel to practice on as it's relatively simple with flush decks, only two masts and little decoration. I can experiment with the rc servos, ballast keel and sail operation once the hull and masts are done and if it works then move on to the nice to have items like head rails, carronades and deck fittings.
 
The cruizer was a possibility for my next scratch build originally planned at 1/64 but I'd helped my father build the 1:20 scale Valdivia schooner kit from Robbe a few years back and being so taken with sailing it that I wanted one of my own.
I'd love a 1:24 scale RC Surprise or cruizer from Steel Chapman and Hutchinson Ltd http://www.modelsailingships.com/ships/grasshopper.html
But it's out of my price range once freight etc is taken into account, hence an effort to scratch build, especially after seeing the very informative logs from Jerry Todd for his Macedonian, Constitution and others.
 
1:36 was chosen as it's large enough to look the part and have some sailing ability and be easily managed with a length of 84cm on the gun deck.
 
If successful with the brig the ultimate goal is a frigate and at 1:36 scale a large vessel like an Artois class frigate of 146 feet on the gun deck would be just manageable for transport and launch at roughly 120cm. But that's pretty optimistic at this stage and I've got a lot to learn yet.
 
The plans for this vessel are those included in EW Petrejus' fine book 'modelling the brig of war Irene' scaled up with bulkhead widths and deadwood for building purposes etc drawn in.
 

 
Using relatively cheap materials was a must for this project as there's still an element of doubt over if it will work. If it doesn't I don't want to feel like it's been a huge investment that fails.
As such the brig will be built from 9mm plywood for the framing with the keel and planking from matai - a New Zealand native timber which is moderately hard enough to hold detail at this scale while still easy to work and has a nice tone although the brig will be painted anyway.
The matai is in the form of old tongue and groove floorboards from a demolition yard that are going for about $6/metre for short lengths that are pretty much unusable for anything else. I can mill these on my table saw and with a home built thickness sander.
 
The hull will be built upside down on a building board for stability and will be cut loose once planked. A base line parallel to the keel a few cms above the max height of the sheer line was drawn on the plans to provide a point from which to measure from. All the bulkheads were drawn with this line as a top (or bottom once upside down on the board) square edge to ensure they would all sit at the correct height from the board and provide a level run for the keel to attach to.

 
A test run of bulkheads on the board.

 
To avoid installing deck beams later these were drawn onto the bulkheads using the camber indicated in Petrejus. The bulkheads were then cut down to ribbing size. In hindsight I should have left the bulwarks above deck ticker to account for the reduction from subsequent sanding but it's nothing major.

 
Most of the framing on the build board here. The keel and stem is matai ripped on a bandsaw and run through my drill powere thickness sander (thanks to MSW member Snowmans for his fine instructions on making one) down to 9mm. The stem was then cut in one piece on the bandsaw and gammoning and bob stay holes/slots drilled.

Well done so far.And surgeons like this do surgery
Have a look on this special minidrill

Drilled rigging holes in bowsprit & glued paper bulwarks on.
 
 

Well done so far.And surgeons like this do surgery
Have a look on this special minidrill

In the next construction forbid the content for us and keep the bottle

Interesting, next plz!

In the next construction forbid the content for us and keep the bottle

In the next construction forbid the content for us and keep the bottle

very nice jesse. You did well  with    planking ,I could say stern and bow beautifully as the wives rear     

In the next construction forbid the content for us and keep the bottle

In the next construction forbid the content for us and keep the bottle