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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    Here's the hull with primer and a base coat of Tamiya dark yellow paint. After detailing with washes and additional highlighting layers of paint, will begin adding accessories. And the turret is almost ready for paint, too.
  2. CDW
    This Some decals don't like lacquer over top. But since it didn't give the other decals a problem, I suspect it's a matter of too heavy a coat. This is one of the limitations/difficulties of rattle can paint, a lack of flow control. Most of the time, decals will behave well to a light coat of clear lacquer, but a heavy coat will cause issues. It likely puddled here, which caused it.
  3. CDW
    You are having a string of bad luck on this one OC. I don't know any easy way to fix that in place.
  4. CDW
    One thing for sure...I would hate being a tanker. Cramped up inside all that steel, and can't even imagine how terribly hot it must have been inside in desert warfare. At least the modern tanks are air conditioned, but as all things do, the air conditioning probably breaks down from time to time and I would bet repairing an A/C system isn't a high priority in the big scheme of things.
  5. CDW
    More details before primer and paint.
  6. CDW
    Thanks EG....glad you're here.
  7. CDW
    There's a lot more detail on the lower hull that I'm adding now. Plus, there is a set of stowage. Lots to see.
  8. CDW
    Very nice work, Tom. You're getting the hang of this quickly and it looks great!
  9. CDW
    Thanks, Ken. It's fun working with an armor model as they are not as sensitive to painting errors as are automobiles, aircraft, and ships. None of the parts of this model are assigned a part number. All you can do is follow the crude pictorial "instruction" sheet, that's really more of a suggestion sheet as the correct part locations are very loosely shown. It helps tremendously to have lots of reference photos from other sources. Here, I started the assembly of the upper hull and finished another set of tracks before I ran out of gas for the day. It was a good rainy day for modeling, tomorrow will try to finish up the upper hull and start getting some paint on it.
  10. CDW
    Beautiful model, Don. I appreciate you sharing it with us.
  11. CDW
    Hey OC. Just found your build log. Beautiful model you're doing, and I like your choice of paint schemes.
  12. CDW
    Right after reading this thread, I went out (virtually speaking) and bought a copy of "Marked for Death: The First War in the Air", by James Hamilton Patterson. It's an Audible book, and what I like to listen to while building my models. Usually I like Westerns, but it's high time I heard/read some WW1 aviation books!
  13. CDW
    Love your Gotha bomber model. I'm a big fan of Wingnut Wings kits, but the Gotha was one I never acquired. Seeing yours makes me wish I had acquired one. Very interesting about the oxygen being piped to the crew, and about the 20,000 ft. service ceiling. Never read up on the history of the WW1 German bombers, but my interest is now piqued.
  14. CDW
    Oh yes, I think it was probably the old DML T-72. Recall it had individual links as well. Another 80's kit.
  15. CDW
    Thanks OC. Yes, indeed they are fiddly. Just can't get in a big rush or else it'll end up a mess. The idea is to assemble long straight pieces, let the glue set up, then come back and gently bend them round the drive sprockets, hoping you've "guessed" the right number of links to match up at the ends where they join. It's not an exact science, more like trial and error.
  16. CDW
    This was a limited run model made in the 80's, and not nearly as high tech and well designed as today's CAD assisted molds. The track links are individual units and must be assembled piece by piece with just a few mating points on each link and are secured by glue...each and every link. In these photos, I have assembled one set of tracks then painted them in gun metal. Once the glue has time to properly set up, will build, paint and install the opposite set, then will weather and detail them before installing the upper tank hull.
  17. CDW
    Before it's all said and done, I'll mix in varying percentages of flat white with the dark yellow, get that reduced down real thin, then use it to highlight various places on the model to give the dark yellow a sun faded, battle worn look. I'll do that last once most of the model is assembled and before I add on all the fuel cans, stowage, and tools.
  18. CDW
    That's Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow over Vallejo Panzer Gray primer. I reduce my dark yellow WAY down then apply thin coats until I get the look I want over the panzer gray primer. I probably used five coats to get to that color, that way some of the dark primer color shows through in the creases.
  19. CDW
    Very true. Nothing shows a blemish like silver.
  20. CDW
    Road wheels all painted and lower hull assembled, it's ready for the tracks at this point. Got to first get the tracks painted.
  21. CDW
    Interesting video about the Sherman tanks, including this model/version and the subsequent purchase of the tanks by Chile. A long, storied service life of the Sherman tank.
  22. CDW
    Never heard of them, but it seems their prices are in Canadian dollars.
  23. CDW
    Assembled the lower hull and primed it with Vallejo Panzer Gray Primer. Each link of the tracks are glued together along side of a metal ruler to keep a straight alignment. I like the way they have included the casting numbers in the hull parts. The kit includes the parts to do several iterations of the M-50, but I have chosen to model the 1973 version with this build.
  24. CDW
    I bought the 1:48 Hobby Boss Firebar and it's pretty nice.
  25. CDW
    These Roden kits give a modeler a workout, but you are dealing with it very well Denis. Started work a while back on an Encore SE5A. The plastic parts are Roden, the fuselage was warped like a banana. I tried working with it and ended up putting it all back inside the box. Later, I acquired a straight Roden kit of the same model and the fuselage is fine on that one. Sometimes, it's just the luck of the draw as to whether you get a straight copy of the Roden kits or a warped one. They are not all the same or consistent quality.

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