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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. I can picture Al Capone driving one of these before he went to prison. 🙂
  2. Dry fitting is absolutely mandatory with these older model kits. Lots of dry fitting. Every part/piece that's added will often change the overall fit. Modern kit tooling has spoiled us. These older models can be built nicely, but it truly is a lot more work to do it. That's one of the reasons I lose interest with a model like this. Not complaining, just explaining. If you want to build a 1:25 1931 Cadillac V16 Roadster, there is no other alternative, and may never be another. Who would spend the money necessary to tool these molds all over again? We perhaps be impossible to recoup the cost.
  3. The photo etch details are generic street rod items available from Detail Master. I have a box full of assorted photo etch details for my car models.
  4. OC Your Mossie looks very fine. I like it. I know you've labored over this model to get it right, and your efforts have paid dividends. A fine job my friend that would make your father proud.
  5. Added interior window cranks, door latch handles, and an instrument cluster to replace the poor raised details of the kit parts. Getting closer to the finish line. 🙂
  6. I will do my best, Kevin. Thanks for the push, I needed it. 🙂
  7. Osmosis Take a look at this build thread for the 1:350 USS Missouri here on MSW. It's going to be much the same as your New Jersey build and you may find some building/detailing tips that will fit nicely with your build.
  8. I'll be painting the top in an off-white color. I need to make a push to have this model finished by the weekend. It's getting boring and when that happens, it's finish it or box it up. Once I lose interest, it's hard to regain it. There are newer, better models that await and want to start.
  9. Beautiful roadster. RL takes priority over our modeling habit, but be patient, you'll get there in due time. ☺️
  10. Just a modeler's prerogative, nothing more. I really wasn't sure how the paint would turn out. The bare metal foil is an old standby, but not practical on something like the radiator shroud. Bare metal foil is more suited for narrow, flat surfaces.
  11. I also forgot to mention, the hood vents were stripped as well. On those, I used bare metal foil to simulate the chrome. The small round hub caps with the V16 emblem are kit chrome plated for comparison.
  12. Thanks OC. Appreciate the encouragement. I should have noted, the radiator grill was stripped of the chrome plating because it had unsightly blemishes. It was then primed with Mr. Color gloss black before shooting it with AK Xtreme Metal chrome silver paint. It turned out fairly convincing for a chrome plating substitute.
  13. Thanks OC. I have several irons in the fire right now. Not as much time for modeling at the moment.
  14. To solve my missing whitewall problem, I bought a salvaged Cadillac kit on Ebay. It turned out the salvaged kit I received was an earlier release than mine and as a consequence, the molded parts were much better than those found in my kit. Because the wheels were so much better, I decided to paint them in a factory color scheme and forego lacing my own wire wheels.
  15. Looks to me like all the parts bags are still sealed.
  16. Just ask the seller for some photos of the contents. If you're not sure if it's complete, just ask some of us on the forum. I guarantee that someone here can tell you from the photos whether it's complete or not, provided the photos are clear.
  17. Very well done. Love the subject material and the scratch building/details.
  18. Great looking tractor. Molds look fantastic.
  19. And a lot depends on how well cured the paint. Well cured paint is much more resistant to removal vs: freshly painted plastic. If I screw up a paint job and strip it within a few days after laying down the paint, it comes off with relative ease. Old models that have been painted for years can take days (soaking) to strip the paint. As you mentioned alcohol will remove Tamiya paint for sure.
  20. Great kit, great photos. The Skysweeper brings back lots of good memories. Renwal kits were way ahead of their time in terms of detail, though they were complicated for younger modelers back then. Didn't Renwal also do a model of the M-8 sold separately? Some did, because I remember building it.
  21. Thanks Kevin. I first used several coats of Tamiya white primer thinned with Mr. Color leveling thinner at a ratio of 1 part primer to 3 parts thinner, wet sanding between coats. Then the color, then the clear coat. Clear coat gets mixed in a ratio similar to the primer, 1 part paint to 3 parts thinner.
  22. Maybe one of us should test whether liquid chlorine might work safely on chromed plastic. I always have liquid chlorine on hand for our swimming pool. Over the next few days, will make it a point to try that on some scrap chrome pieces to test it out. Liquid chlorine is an undiluted version of bleach but one has to be extra careful with it as it can create quite strong fumes.
  23. Nick I use a product called "Super Clean" to strip chrome parts. In the USA, it can be found in the automotive section of WalMart stores, sold in one gallon containers. Super Clean is a cleaner/degreaser and I believe it is citrus based. I don't know whether this product or an equivalent is available in Europe. When I am doing small chrome parts and not using an airbrush, I use a Molotow chrome marking pen. They come in 1mm, 2mm, and 4mm tip sizes. Makes a very nice chrome finish and the pen makes it very convenient. For larger parts, there are various spray cans of chrome paint that do a decent finish. https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Marker-Set/dp/B074JJ1YMY
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