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John Gummersall

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About John Gummersall

  • Birthday 04/18/1953

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    Iron Ridge, Wi

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  1. Again,,,, I appreciate your comment, but back in post #14 I had two planks left to go. I was really unclear on that point. It was then that I noticed that when I got to the final plank the bottom of the hull would need to be trimmed. Anyway, I am not on the final plank and how to complete the planking soon. john
  2. Chuck, I appreciate your comments, I was not really very clear as to my issue. My problem (before the patch) was not so much a shortage of wood. But that would have resulted in a gap under the stem/stern posts (see below) as the planking stops at the stem/stern posts. I really did not want to see that gap... Below is the completed stem post with the 1/32" patch at the bottom. Now both the stem and stern posts (patched stern post listed above) will be able to accept the bottom planking with no gap between where the planking ends an
  3. Rodger, Thanks for your comment,,,, I appreciate it Below shows the completed Stern post after sanding... Now the bottom plank should fit pretty good into the stern post. As for the stem (bow) post, looks like it only needs the additional 1/32" to be added. Below are a couple pictures of the added patch to the stem post. It too will be sanded later to confirm to the stem post.
  4. Not sure why I did not notice this before, but now that I am at the last plank, I noticed that when the bottom of the hull was planked with 1/32" planking, the bottom now extends beyond the stem and stern posts... ugh,,, If I had noticed this at the time, I could have adjusted for the 1/32" when attaching the stem/stern posts to the hull bottom. This now needs to be fixed as the bottom plank will not sit properly with the stem/stern posts. At this point about all I can think of is to extend the stem/stern posts. Actually it looks like I need to add about 1/16"
  5. As the saying goes.... "you can never have enough clamps".... Even with my attempt at bending the planking, a little brute force (as in clamps) is always helpful. I find these from Micro Mark really helpful and form a really tight bond to the bulkhead.
  6. Planking going along pretty good. As Chuck and I have mentioned above, the planking is somewhat easy on the Philadelphia. Most of the planks only require a little shaping and bending. I really have liked using Chuck Passaro's planking method. Even with a little bending his method really makes planking easier..... especially for someone like me that has no idea how to do a good job with spiling. Below are a few shots showing planking almost complete. Then on to the sanding to clean up some glue spots and general smoothing out.
  7. I agree spiling is not a problem on the Philadelphia. But as I have mentioned earlier, past models have shown to me that I am the "World's Worst Spiler" (if that is a word). Fortunately wood filler, paint, and a lot of sanding makes hides even the world's worst "spiling" job. Having said that, there is some minor bending/twisting of wood on the Philadelphia. I do like Chuck's method of bending wood as very few clamps are required to make the plank lie flat to the bulkheads. My previous planking jobs usually have ended up with more clamps than wood try to get the woo
  8. Before I take on spiling I thought it best if I give Chuck Passaro's planking Videos one more review. I have seen them before and they looked interesting, but I never really attempted his process. Having gone back over the videos, I now realize this is the way to do planking - for me anyway. I made a very small version of the bending station suggested by Chuck. In Chuck's case it looks like he uses a 2 x 12 board over a couple of saw horses. That seemed a really good setup, but I just did not have that kind of room. Below is my smaller version of a bending station. With
  9. Been awhile since my last update... As I indicated early on, this will be a painfully slow log... I do not get to work on the model as much as I would like. Seems something else is always tugging for my attention... Anyway, the first three planking rows have been completed.... Pretty straight foreword, just a slow process. Each plank has to be cut to size, soaked, pinned into place, let dry, and then glue into place. Below is my attempt at the first three planking rows Bow Stern Port Side Starboard Side
  10. I agree,,,, really nice job on everything I see,,, Boiler and machinery look really good. You have a far steadier hand than I did... I had a hard time with those small parts... As for you spiling,,,, that looks great too. From the pictures you did a very good job at matching the planks. To me pre-notched lines for planking were more of a guide that the absolute truth... Main thing is to try to match the curve of the previous plank and have as small gap (or no gap) as possible between planks. From what I can see, you have done an excellent job (and better than I do).
  11. Cockpit floors have been laid. One issue I noticed on the bailing well is that there is no border to the well to support the lid. The model does not have a lid, but I assume there should have been. The 3/16" board on one side could support one side of the lid, but there is no support for the other side of the lid (marked in green below). I did not catch this until after I laid the cockpit floor. If I was doing this again I would have just cut the flooring plank a litter shorter exposing some of the 3/16" floor support board. However, at this point, not sure If I will just leave it
  12. I am by far no expert on spiling,,,, In fact far from it.. Most of my attempts at spiling have a lot to be desired.... But I have learned this,,,, if you plan to paint the hull, no matter how good or bad your spiling looks,,,, in the end both good spiling and bad spiling all look the same under paint. The better your spiling the less sanding you will have to do, but in the end it all looks the same under paint. Try to keep learning you spiling skills (as I am), but also try not to worry about it as you go. Not worth the worry. Remember, sanding and paint are your frien
  13. Completed bulkheads.... In previous posts I mentioned that I had to trim what I would consider an unusual amount off each bulkhead. This seems to have changed. As shown in my last post I started with bulkhead #9 and worked toward the stern. I mentioned I was worried that I had to trim each bulkhead what I would consider an excessive amount (2mm). I was worried I was doing something incorrect but saw no other way. Interesting enough, when I got to bulkheads #1-#8 they all seemed to be the correct length with only minor trimming for them to match the outer edge of the hull
  14. Following that age old philosophy stating "why do something easy when you can make it hard" I decided to plank the bottom of the hull and the decking in the boat. But for this you need to get some extra wood. I decided to plank the bottom of the hull and the decking with 1/32" x 1/2" wood. In hindsight I think I should have gone with 1/32" x 3/8", but the wood has been ordered... While waiting for the wood to show up I moved on to the cannons. As others have commented both the 9lbs and 12lbs cannons need a lot of cleanup from the molds. Might be time for Model Expo to ge
  15. Lewes, Thanks for the heads up..... I will keep that in mind when I get to beveling the bulkheads... By the way,,,, is it just me or were your bulkheads a little long too and had to be shortened where they meet the false keel?
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