Jump to content

John Gummersall

Members
  • Content Count

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About John Gummersall

  • Birthday 04/18/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Glenview, Illinois

Recent Profile Visitors

688 profile views
  1. Turangi Thanks for the comment on the stack. I too am pleased with how it turned out. However, I am way too much a novice model builder to have any original thoughts. If it is not in the plans or in someone else's MSW build log, it is not in my build. In this case the thought for the stack did come from another Picket build log. After some filling and sanding ( a lot of filling and sanding) and a coat of grey primer below is the result. Before the primer I thought the hull was pretty smooth, but as they say... "primer magnifies your blemishes by 10% and pai
  2. Began to work on foreword side of the boiler. Rather than use the 1/2'' dowel rod suggested in the instructions I changed that out for a 1/2'' pipe. I just looked more like a smoke stack. Interestingly enough, the dowel rod was 1/2'' outside diameter and the pipe was 1/2" inside diameter, so it slipped easily over the dowel. Cut about a 1" length off the dowel and glued it to the top of the structure then glued and slipped the 1/2'' pipe over the dowel. Added the doors and painted the entire stack black Below is the stack a
  3. Add the top of the steam dome and it is starting to look like something Boiler stand pretty straight foreword On to the foreword end of the boiler. This is were the fun starts. I am looking foreword to this... Instructions pretty straight foreword with the first part. Note the four 1/8 x 1/8 corner pieces inside the structure. You will need these if you plan to round out the corners going into the smoke stack. Again a few minutes with the Dremel and the structure
  4. Planking of the hull complete. Time to add the stern section (parts 33-35). Glue them to the hull then trim them to match the curve of the stern section. A few minutes with a Dremel tool and the stern section was complete. If you do not have a rotary tool, you could do with with a file and sandpaper, but it will take a long time. Get some sort of rotary tool, you will not regret it. There is a slight gap between pieces 34-35. When trimming down the stern section, it just
  5. Remainder of the planking is pretty straight foreword and more or less go straight up the hull. One issue I would like to point out is the planks at the stern. Not only are they curved, they also twist. Best way to accomplish this is to soak them and pre-bend them. The wood is very thin and only about a 5-10 minute soaking is all that is needed. Once soaked, the plank bens/twists very easily and can be clamped (with very little effort) into place. Below show strake #5 being held in place by only one clamp and a rubber band. Be sure to let th
  6. Moving on up the hull (from the keel) the remaining strakes seem pretty straight foreword. Not nearly as complex as the initial strakes 10-13. I would like to point out where the hull curves the most (around strakes 7 & 8 ) it is pretty hard to get a good fit without some fiddling. Trying to make straight wood go around a curve leaves some somewhat wide gaps between the strakes. Not really a big deal is you plan to follow up with wood filler, but one option to make the strakes match up as this curved section of the hull is to pre-bend them to somewhat match the curve.
  7. Instructions call to next build strike 13 (the one along the keel) and build strikes up from the bottom and down from the top. I guess meeting in the middle about strike 6 or 7. Looking at the plans, strikes 9-13 are the most challenging as the plans are not really clear as to where they lay at the stern - especially as they lie relating to curved part 23 and the steering column. In the bow section only strikes 12 and 13 took a little studying. For a seasoned builder, the plans may seem easy, but for me I had a really hard time figuring out where strikes 9-13 start and end.
  8. Forgot to mention above but could not hold off any more without gluing in bulkhead #4 do to the fact that it is glued to the first row of planking. As expected I had to do some "adjustments" to the foredeck and bulkhead to account for the 1/32 planking. End result came out pretty good. One issue, I did not think about,,,,,, I was so excited to finally get the 4th bulkhead and foredeck to match that I ended up gluing on the foredeck. Instructions say to glue it in later. At the time I felt I might as well glue it in now as I could not see a reason to wait. Na
  9. Coal bin glued back in and all is forgiven.... Again I am sorry I did not open that bin, but with my limited skills I just do not think I would do a good job of it this late in the build. One additional do to the increased floor boards. The vertical portion of the coal bins need to be trimmed for the top to fit correctly. You can trim the top or the bottom edge. In my case I trimmed the bottom edge as I wanted to make the slots for each bulkhead less pronounced. Use a sanding stick for this as it would be somewhat hard to get an even edge alone the floor using
  10. Not a lot to post, but I have finished up gluing in the seats and flooring. Took a far amount of trimming (due to the 1/32) flooring and probably some inexperience of the builder(me) to get all to line up. End result looks pretty good. One point,,,, the instructions indicate to glue in bulkhead #4 and #12 pretty early on in the build, and before the flooring and seats go in. I did not do this, and I feel that is the right thing to do. In the picture below I glued in bulkhead #12 at the same time as the seats. Issue is the seats have to exactly line up with bulkhead #12.
  11. David I too would like to someday take on the 1:35 version of the Endeavour.... Originally I wanted to take on the 1:35, but my wife felt we did not have a place to fit such a large model and thus talked me into the 1:80 version. But after building the 1:80 version, I really want to build the 1:35 version. The Endeavour is a really neat model. If you ever decide to build the 1:35 version,,, let me know,,,, Maybe by then we will have found a place for the 1:35 and I could build one too along with you.. We'll see,,
  12. Turangi, I too plan to open a bin and show coal.... I got that idea from looking at your build log, but I appreciate your comments above. Thanks for the reminder on making some sort of bottom to the open bin for the coal. I have been out this past week with some friends visiting,,,,but should get back to the Picket build later this week. I have added the clear coat to all the stained parts, but have not yet opened the coal bin. I will probably have to touch up the coal bin as opening it up will expose some unstained wood. Hopefully by the end of
  13. Planking and staining complete. just need to get some clear coat on them now. I decided to plank bulkheads 4 and 12 verses making them grey. Even though I used a pre-stain, it would appear the wood did not take the stain uniformly... but it has a unique look to it. For the grey, I used a stain instead of paint. A little easier for me to use and looks OK Note below, it all depends on the look you are going for. A small section of the bulkheads shows under the coal bins. Some have opted to make those the same color as the floor. Sin
  14. Turangi, Thanks for the comment on how you dealt with the broken ribs. Actually my first thought was to add an extra piece of wood to the bulkhead and glue it to the keel, but "nixed" the idea thinking the floor would not lay flat. I did not think (as you did) that the extra piece of wood could easily be just knocked off after the bulkhead dries... The idea of temporarily adding a piece of wood (when needed from time to time) and later knock it off is a neat trick.. I will keep that in mind. john
×
×
  • Create New...