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John Gummersall

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About John Gummersall

  • Birthday 04/18/1953

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  • Location
    Iron Ridge, Wi

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  1. Joseph There are about as many ways to blacken brass as there are model builders. If you look on MSW logs, lots of folks have various ways to do it, with mixed results. Some successful and some not so successful. I have found (not that I am anywhere near an expert) that Novacan works great for blackening etched brass. See my post on my Philadelphia, it shows some results. You can use it full strength to get a really rustic brown/black look or use it 1/2 strength to get a more even blackening. john
  2. Been some progress to date... It is summer and just too hard to be indoors building... I ended up using Golden Oak for a stain on the hull and light sanding afterwards to "dull it up some". Aft storage chests and knees have been installed too. In addition all hull holes have been drilled and those that are to accept eyelets at this time have been installed. I got a little anxious and moved on to the 9 lbs and 12 lbs guns. A little our of order. As usual, the guns needed a lot of sanding/filing to remove the rough edges. For stock molded guns they did not turn out too bad. Both the 9 lbs and 12 lbs gun axles are pretty straight forward to build. For the 12 lbs gun track I did alter from the suggested plans. There are two G6 parts (along with some stock wood) that make up the 12 lbs gun track. Only one G6 is supposed to be glued in. The other one (highlighted in red) is supposed to be used to temporarily hold the proper spacing as the glue dries. For me I found it easier to trim the "temporary" G6 piece so it fits between the tracks and actually glue it to the tracks. This way the entire track can be built/stained outside the boat and then fitted/trimmed and glued into the boat. This now permanent G6 piece will be hidden by the 12 lbs canon. For me I just found this easier. Below shows the canon in what will be it's final spot hiding the glued G6 piece. Track has yet to be stained below. Moved on to the deadeyes.. One note.... the various string supplied with the boat is a shiny nylon that unravels just by looking at it. Not good way to cut it with a knife or scissors without an unraveled mess on your hands. To me, the best way to cut this line is with a soldering iron. With the soldering iron hit, just touch it to the line and it will cut it like butter leaving both ends neatly melted with no unraveling. Best way to strop the deadeyes (for me anyway) was to hang them from an alligator clip with a larger clip holding the line tight. From there it is pretty easy to stop the deadeye Here is the end result of the four deadeyes. I am not the best deadeye stropper in the world, but they turned out OK Here they are temporarily attached through the hull. Instructions call to permanently glue them to the hull at this point. I have to give that some thought.... Not sure I want to attach them at this time. We'll see
  3. Session 3 started today.... You can also access the sale via website (http://www.badgerairbrush.com/) and click on "Special Offers"
  4. It has been awhile since I last posted up... What can I say... it is summer and too many other distractions... I have completed a few items. Below is the completed bow and stern sheerstrake planks glued to the now trimmed inner bulkheads. As the instructions indicate as the ceiling planks get to the floor bulkheads they need to be notched. Measure carefully and make the notch (shown in red) as small as possible - Just large enough to cover the floor bulkheads. The planking is 1/16". If the notch it too big or too long it will show as the ceiling planks continue on to the floor planking. In order to get a better gluing base for the ceiling planking below the floor planking note the rectangle piece of wood (shown in black) added to the inside of the outer planking. Earlier pieces were added along side the bulkheads to provide a better gluing, but I felt a little more is needed. The gap between the outer planking and the ceiling planking is very close to 5/32". Just glue 3 - 3/16 pieces of wood together and with minor sanding you have a good base for the ceiling planking below the floor planking. OK,,,,, now is the time where the purists are going to roll their eyes and totally tune me out.... Below shows the bailing well made earlier in the build. It took me several attempts to make it look OK (maybe), but at my skill level, I just can not get it to turn out looking anything that resembles a bailing well. Anyone looking at it will surely ask "what is with the hole in the flooring"? Anyway,,,,, I discovered that this boat was originally built so tight that it just does not leak. It never rains in the boat and waves just never splash over the side. As such,,,, does not need a bailing well. So I removed the bailing well... I just could not get it to my liking,, 🙂 Outer and inner planking complete,,,,, On to staining,,,,, not quite sure what stain I will use at this time.... I keep going back and forth.... Will post again when I have made a decision 🙂
  5. Planking finally complete.... As I first mentioned, this will be a painfully slow log... Especially now that summer is upon us.... Seems lots of outside stuff keep pulling me away from the build. Below is a side shot of the completed outside planking.... Still needs some sanding, but all in all I am pleased.. Not sure why, but in some cases the pencil marks on the side of the planking did not come out even on all planks... Seems a little blotchy,,, Hopefully sanding and stain will cover some of it up. Below is a shot from the bow.... Seems the starboard garboard is a little thicker than the one on the port side. My intention was to taper it as it goes into the bow... Looks like I forgot to tape the starboard garboard. Will get to that later. As you can see, I have moved the shipyard out to our porch. Not as convenient as in the basement, but it is summer, so ship building has moved outside. Now on to the inner planking (ceiling planks)... As with the outer planking, now the inside of the first five bulkheads needs to be trimmed to better accept the ceiling planks.
  6. Again,,,, I appreciate your comment, but back in post #14 I had two planks left to go. I was really unclear on that point. It was then that I noticed that when I got to the final plank the bottom of the hull would need to be trimmed. Anyway, I am not on the final plank and how to complete the planking soon. john
  7. Chuck, I appreciate your comments, I was not really very clear as to my issue. My problem (before the patch) was not so much a shortage of wood. But that would have resulted in a gap under the stem/stern posts (see below) as the planking stops at the stem/stern posts. I really did not want to see that gap... Below is the completed stem post with the 1/32" patch at the bottom. Now both the stem and stern posts (patched stern post listed above) will be able to accept the bottom planking with no gap between where the planking ends and the stem/stern posts.
  8. Rodger, Thanks for your comment,,,, I appreciate it Below shows the completed Stern post after sanding... Now the bottom plank should fit pretty good into the stern post. As for the stem (bow) post, looks like it only needs the additional 1/32" to be added. Below are a couple pictures of the added patch to the stem post. It too will be sanded later to confirm to the stem post.
  9. Not sure why I did not notice this before, but now that I am at the last plank, I noticed that when the bottom of the hull was planked with 1/32" planking, the bottom now extends beyond the stem and stern posts... ugh,,, If I had noticed this at the time, I could have adjusted for the 1/32" when attaching the stem/stern posts to the hull bottom. This now needs to be fixed as the bottom plank will not sit properly with the stem/stern posts. At this point about all I can think of is to extend the stem/stern posts. Actually it looks like I need to add about 1/16" to the stem/stern posts as a patch. Below shows the stern post patch after the initial gluing.... Tomorrow (when the glue is dry) I will trim it to match the stern post. In the end will be hardly noticeable, but if not fixed, the transition of the plank to the stem/stern posts would be very noticeable.
  10. As the saying goes.... "you can never have enough clamps".... Even with my attempt at bending the planking, a little brute force (as in clamps) is always helpful. I find these from Micro Mark really helpful and form a really tight bond to the bulkhead.
  11. Planking going along pretty good. As Chuck and I have mentioned above, the planking is somewhat easy on the Philadelphia. Most of the planks only require a little shaping and bending. I really have liked using Chuck Passaro's planking method. Even with a little bending his method really makes planking easier..... especially for someone like me that has no idea how to do a good job with spiling. Below are a few shots showing planking almost complete. Then on to the sanding to clean up some glue spots and general smoothing out. Noticed a little space in the top sheerstrake ,,,,, Will need to fill that from the inside later on.. While waiting for some of the planks to dry I noticed it will not be a smooth transition from the bottom plank (W+4 strake) to the bottom of the boat. Note when the bottom plank will eventually be applied there is not much edge to glue to Just as you need to trim the foreword/aft bulkhead to accept the strake planks looks like you will also need to trim the hull bottom to provide a better base to glue the bottom strake plank. A few minutes with the Dremel easily takes care of that and will provide a much larger area to glue the bottom strake plank. Does not really need to be perfect, just provide something to glue to.
  12. I agree spiling is not a problem on the Philadelphia. But as I have mentioned earlier, past models have shown to me that I am the "World's Worst Spiler" (if that is a word). Fortunately wood filler, paint, and a lot of sanding makes hides even the world's worst "spiling" job. Having said that, there is some minor bending/twisting of wood on the Philadelphia. I do like Chuck's method of bending wood as very few clamps are required to make the plank lie flat to the bulkheads. My previous planking jobs usually have ended up with more clamps than wood try to get the wood to do unnatural acts to lie flat. Looking forward to my next ship that has thinner planks and more curve/twist to them to see if I will loose my title as "World's Worst Spiler"
  13. Before I take on spiling I thought it best if I give Chuck Passaro's planking Videos one more review. I have seen them before and they looked interesting, but I never really attempted his process. Having gone back over the videos, I now realize this is the way to do planking - for me anyway. I made a very small version of the bending station suggested by Chuck. In Chuck's case it looks like he uses a 2 x 12 board over a couple of saw horses. That seemed a really good setup, but I just did not have that kind of room. Below is my smaller version of a bending station. With the Philadelphia there are not too many planks to bend and each plank is much wider than the planks on most models. This process worked great for me even with the wider planks. I say "even with the wider planks" as the wider planks are much harder to bend. Narrower planks would be much easier to bend. I am looking foreword to trying this process on a future boat with narrower planks, but for now this worked great for me. In the event you are interested, here are the links to Chuck's videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM&t=7s Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9T5C9rW2JkU Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atXqH0GWLL8 Part 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uhwsf4lW6Sc Part 4 As I was waiting for planking to dry I wanted to experiment with blacking brass. Just as many theories on spiling as there are modelers, there are any number of ways to blacken brass - some successful other not so successful. In my case I wanted to try "Novacan Black Patina / for Solder - Lead". I had heard this works pretty well so I wanted to give it a try. Below is the result. I need to keep fiddling with it. In the example below I did not pre-clean them with acetone. Just took the brass and stuck it into the Novacan Black Patina. I was hoping for a more even black. Instead I got a very rusty look. So it defiantly aged the items - like they have been sitting on the bottom of the sea for some time - and that is a look if that is what you are after. Tomorrow I will try with a pre-wash of acetone to see if I get a more even look - We will see,,,, As you can see the above blackening process left the pieces looking pretty rustic. If that is the look you want then OK. In my case I wanted a more even blackening. I attempted diluting the Novacan to 1/2 strength (with water) and ended up with a pretty even blackening with nothing rubbing off. Based on the dilution process, I am really impressed with Novacan for blackening brass. Below are some additional Philadelphia brass etching pieces blackened with Novacan at 1/2 strength.
  14. Been awhile since my last update... As I indicated early on, this will be a painfully slow log... I do not get to work on the model as much as I would like. Seems something else is always tugging for my attention... Anyway, the first three planking rows have been completed.... Pretty straight foreword, just a slow process. Each plank has to be cut to size, soaked, pinned into place, let dry, and then glue into place. Below is my attempt at the first three planking rows Bow Stern Port Side Starboard Side As I was waiting for each plank to dry I decided to plank the decking. As mentioned earlier,,, "why do something easy when you can make it hard". I used 1/32" x 1/2" planking as I did not want to add to much height to the deck. Having said that, additional height does not appear, at this point, to make a difference with the Philadelphia. In hindsight I probably should have used 1/16" x 1/2" planking as 1/32" has a lot more warping to deal with than the 1/16". In addition, others had mentioned that an additional 1/16" of an inch probably is what the original model designer intended and greatly helps with the placement of the canons. In either case, do not forget to weight down the decking after planking it to prevent warping. You will definitely have warped decking if you do not weight them down as the glue dries. Below is the decking after the planking. At this point I just layed the decking in the boat for the picture. In reality, the ceiling planking will be applied before the decking is glued into place. Now on to the (shall we say) fun part - spiling.... I am probably the world's worst spiler.... I have attempted and tried several spiling methods others have used in past models but do not really feel comfortable with any of them. At this point I just to not have the knack for it. I am not sure what the issue is... too old to learn, too new to modeling, or just no talent - pick one..... Once again, we will take it on and see what happens.. 🙂
  15. I agree,,,, really nice job on everything I see,,, Boiler and machinery look really good. You have a far steadier hand than I did... I had a hard time with those small parts... As for you spiling,,,, that looks great too. From the pictures you did a very good job at matching the planks. To me pre-notched lines for planking were more of a guide that the absolute truth... Main thing is to try to match the curve of the previous plank and have as small gap (or no gap) as possible between planks. From what I can see, you have done an excellent job (and better than I do). I will give one word of warning,,,, when it comes to painting the hull, no matter how much you patch and sand, even the smallest seams will show up and appear huge to you after the first prime coat. It is easy to get discouraged after what seems like endless sanding and have a hull that looks really smooth, only to have the paint expose numerous seams. Just keep patching, sanding, and additional coats of paint. Eventually all the seams will be filled and the hull will be smooth. It may take 6-7 coats of paint,,,, but in the end, the hull will smooth and look fantastic.
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