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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. I thought I had them in my personal stock, but realized I needed to order the correct Mr. Color finishing paints to match the camo scheme. With that order behind me (and waiting for the products) my journey will begin with the cockpit as usual and then some detail work on the wheel wells and intake trunks. Hopefully by then, my paints will have arrived. When you take out the copious munition trees, the parts count for this model is no huge. At least half or more of the 300+ part count is for ordnance! And much of that ordnance will not be used in this build but will go in the spares box. One of the things I ordered ahead of time is a pre-cut paint mask for this model from a shop in Australia. It's in hand so once the paints arrive, I can go to town. Standby, will soon be posting some photos of the cockpit pieces, albeit small and basic. I am very partial to the Mr Color line of lacquer finishing paints. For me they just go down so much easier, are more consistent, and well behaved in the way they lay down on the model then level out without obliterating detail. I do have all the correct colors in Mig Ammo acrylics, but don't have the confidence I can do an equal job laying them down the way I want for this model. I need more practice with acrylic paints and each brand seems to have their own peculiar need for a correct amount of thinner to reduce them to an appropriate level for airbrushing.
  2. Very happy to see how well the Rub n Buff turned out for you on this model. The Sabre is such a gorgeous airplane, and your model really does it justice.
  3. Welcome! Su-33 is about the same dimensions as the F-15, yes, a large airframe. It’s nice they include most everything to give a good out-of-box experience. 1:72 scale aircraft kits are much better detailed now than they were not too many years ago. Hasegawa always drove the modeler to buy weapons sets.
  4. Not sure I understand the question, but I will use the base, yes.
  5. Welcome aboard gents! A preview of the parts trees and color call out sheets. Trumpeter provides every munition in the Russian arsenal in every aircraft kit. The huge piece of plastic at the end is a carrier deck and blast shield. Nice touch.
  6. Sitting next to a German staff car in the same scale gives an impression of the size of the D7, a big machine, close to 40 tons gross weight.
  7. Thanks Javlin Will add some more weathering, detail painting, winch cable, headlight lenses, then call this one done.
  8. Observe the hand crank on top of the engine cover. The crank is connected to a vertical shaft that makes a 90 degree turn toward an object on the side of the engine. The hand crank is used to start the engine vis a vis a “pony motor”. The object on the side of the engine is the pony motor. When the pony motor is started using the hand crank, this auxiliary motor actually is the starter for the Diesel engine. Not an electric start. As a matter of fact, one of the first things we are taught when working on a gas pipeline is to quickly throw a rag over top of the air breather in the event we ever strike and rupture a live gas pipeline. Unless choked for air, a Diesel engine will rev up uncontrollably once it starts breathing in natural gas.
  9. Thanks for the comments. Every Cat dozer I ever worked around had a hinged flap on top of the exhaust stack to keep rain and debris out. The kit did not include one, but it’s easy enough to scratch one from scrap styrene and photo etch tree material.
  10. Using AK Weathering pencils to do some rust items here and there. Started off with the exhaust manifold in dark rust. Subsequent colors will be applied to achieve the effect desired.
  11. Acrylics, water based, but there must be something added that slows the drying time. It's to allow some self-leveling tendencies, I think. Kinda neat how the shader left what looks like a handprint on the toolbox. Totally unanticipated.
  12. Yes on the yellow for this one. I have another armored version I will do in OD.
  13. The very last link is completed by sliding a pin in place to secure the link, then glue on the track plate/pad. A subtle coat of clay colored shader placed on area of road wheels to simulate ground conditions. Other shades will be used elsewhere on the model along with other weathering effects.
  14. Thanks…and it’s very realistic to the actual way the track links are assembled IRL. MiniArt are on their game in the design of their kits. Maybe could be considered a bit over engineered at times.
  15. While there is no quick way to build the tracks, I found an organized and process flow that works well for me. First glue a pin into one side of the link parts. Note that each track pad has four alignment indents to locate the link parts. Slide the pin/link assembly through the preceding link and glue to pad. Note that there is a right and left link part and these parts are specific for each side. Now slide the opposite link part onto the pin then glue to the track pad. Glue must not contact the pin/link part so as to remain moveable.
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