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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    Where did you source the Pyrn thread? I read about it but never used it. My experience with photo etch is limited to a Tamiya Swordfish. It sagged.
  2. CDW
    Thanks Rob. Hope it doesn’t disappoint too much but I won’t be doing flat rigging with this model. Wasn’t prepared to source the materials needed which on first thought would need to be photo etch. Could possibly do it by repurposing some small scale ship railing but in this case will cheat and use round rigging instead.
  3. CDW
    I will use this contraption to align the wings and glue the struts in place. It’s not aligned yet, just posed for a “before” photo. The “after” photo will come later.
  4. CDW
  5. CDW
  6. CDW
    Here you can see the odd way the lower wing is mounted to the fuselage as well as how the landing gear struts pass through the wing to attach to the fuselage.
  7. CDW
    Have a little paint on the major portion of the kit now. Will add more paint to the struts then will begin the assembly of the sub assemblies 😁 Mucho weathering and rigging to follow.
  8. CDW
    I disassembled my three kit books and took the pages to Office Depot for copies on their laser color printer. I got one full size copy and one half size copy of each book for a grand total cost of $20 after tax. That’s a total of 24 pages on similar paper as the original. 4 of those pages were 11x17. Great quality as well as great price IMO. I won’t be cutting my original books any more from this point forward. Copies only.
  9. CDW
    For any of you that own this kit or a variation of it from Eduard, be aware the instruction part number call outs for the fuselage - lower wing struts are backward. Test fit the strut fuselage to wing fit before gluing the parts to the fuselage. If you don’t do this, you will find out the hard way and likely need to scratch build another set of struts.
  10. CDW
    Fuselage is ready for paint. The F.2B had a unique wing mounting system on the bottom wing. The wings have been primed in white while the rib locations are pre shaded n black before color coats.
  11. CDW
    Nice haul!
  12. CDW
    Good lighting, optical magnification, and a great sound track of your choice. The sound helps keep me in a zone that ignores the tedium.
  13. CDW
    The upper and lower wings each have need of 20 tie-off points for rigging. The fuselage needs 6 points, 3 on each side. Next steps will include prepping and painting the wings. Will pre-shade the wings before color coats. I may paint the rounders depending on how the decals look. Eduardo usually have nice decals but we shall see.
  14. CDW
    I received these in the mail today but won’t start them until I scan and reduce them to 1:72 scale first for printing. I have frames on order from Poland.
  15. CDW
    Chris I found this fellow's paper modeling channel. Builds some very nice models in 1:72 scale after he scaled them down from 1:33 kits. I like the channel and am learning a lot from watching his videos.
  16. CDW
    Been doing a bit of research and homework on card modeling before I make another attempt at it, albeit this kit is toast I do have others waiting on the wings (no pun intended). One lesson learned is how easy it is to screw up a part or even a whole parts page. What I would like to do is scan my kit then scale it down from 1:33 to 1:48 or 1:72. Question is, what’s the best home printer to use for a good quality color print? Is it a better idea to just have it color printed by a commercial printing service? I don’t think my ink jet printer is up to the task of a good quality print.
  17. CDW
    Airbrush clogs most usually come down to the ratio/mix of paint to thinner. With acrylic paints, a flow improver additive is sometimes needed to stop needle tip drying. Play with your mix ratios on scrap until you find the correct mix. It's a problem that happens to all of us, particularly when you go from one brand of paint to another because each have their own peculiar quirks it seems to me.
  18. CDW
    Just this morning debris contractors began collecting debris created as a result of Hurricane Ian on our street. Our damage was next to nothing compared to counties south of us. It will take years, maybe decades for them to recover.
  19. CDW
    Indeed, that Camo is super Alan. Very nice.
  20. CDW
    Wife and I going to our 50th school graduating class reunion tonight.
  21. CDW
    Two attachment points will be made adjacent to each wing strut. I’ve drilled .25mm holes at each point being careful not to drill through the wing but enough to enable our twisted wire attachment points to be super glued to the wing. Now the little plastic sleeves made earlier come into play. Slide the monofilament rigging wire through a sleeve, then slide the rigging wire through the attachment point loop. Bring the wire back through the sleeve then super glue the sleeve to the wire…attachment complete. I find this method much simpler and cleaner than trying to knot the wire at the attachment point. Plus it looks pretty good after the assembly is all finished.
  22. CDW
    I create my attachment points by first stripping the insulation from fine gauge electrical wire. Then using individual strands of wire, twist them into loops as per the photos. On this model, I will need a couple dozen attachment points. I made a tool to twist the loops by bending the needle of a hypodermic syringe. The wire is too fine to do it by hand. Need a tool like this one or similar to do it.
  23. CDW
    For my rigging, I will be using 2 pound test monofilament fishing line. It’s almost hair-like in diameter.
  24. CDW
    The fit of the fuselage halves was pretty good. After some sanding of the seams, adding super glue as a seam filler then sanding some more, the seams have virtually disappeared.
  25. CDW
    Not ready for rigging at this time, but to prepare for it, find some cheap cotton swabs with plastic sticks. Paper sticks won’t work for this exercise. The plastic sticks are tubes. Slowly heat the plastic stick over a lit candle until it’s soft, then stretch it into a small diameter tube. Cut the stretched plastic tube into 2 or 3mm long sections. These will be used later on in the rigging process. You could alternatively use 1 or .5mm brass tubing cut into similar size pieces, but it’s harder to source small diameter brass tubing. You may need to practice a bit to stretch the heated plastic tube. It’s easy to over heat or over stretch it and ruin it, but it’s no big deal.

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