CDW

Ain’t that the truth. I’ve collected so many paint supplies it’s hard to keep it all organized and to remember what I’ve got.

I kept the outer limits of the framing consistent with the printed parts so it shouldn’t make a difference. Yeah I knew they were a tad too wide/tall

I just saw that Zoukei Mura 1:48 F-4G’s will be available in the USA this month. Should be a great kit if their previous F-4’s are any indicator. I am debating whether to preorder one this week.

Yes, that’s right! I forgot about her (how could I?). She built incredibly detailed card model ships. Doris was her name maybe?

The printed parts in the photo are marked in the booklet with an asterisk, signifying they are to be pasted to a 1mm card before assembly. The structure I built from balsa is what these parts should look like after assembly. Trouble is, you won’t get that if assembled that way. The horizontal pieces would be double the desired thickness and then the skins wouldn’t fit. Nowhere in the instructions give the modeler this heads-up. The only way to discover it is by careful examination of all the parts in the assembly, multiple steps ahead. It’s sorta like playing chess. I can see why few modelers choose this medium, but maybe this kit is just an anomaly. I really don’t know since it’s my first card model.

After getting a late start on my model, immediately began to realize the start I made needed alteration and improvising. I did not realize at first the designer intended the white areas between the brown colored framework was intended to be cut out, leaving only a framework of approximately 1/16th inch all around. Since I had bonded the printed card to 1mm chipboard this was going to require much cutting I was not prepared to do. As Chris warned me, my 1 mm chipboard is difficult to cut and for me in particular, difficult to maintain a straight cut without butchering it. So I decided to build my 1/16 framework from 1/16 inch balsa stock I had on hand. My photo shows the balsa framework in progress as I glue it together over the printed parts and pin it down to keep its shape until dry. This is a common technique for building balsa model airplanes as many of you probably know. I think it will turn out much neater this way.

Glad to see you're back on this big, beautiful bird!

Either Mr Color or Tamiya for lacquer, and Humbrol for enamel. Scalehobbyist dot com carries the full line of Mr Color, Tamiya lacquers, and Humbrol enamels. Great service, low prices, and they don't add sales tax.

A few drops of flow improver in your paint cup will help prevent "tip drying". This is where paint dries on the tip of the airbrush needle and eventually stops the flow of paint. Acrylic paints like Vallejo are much friendlier for low odor, but sometimes give me fits through my airbrush. It seems like it's always a battle to get the right mixture of thinner to paint and in general are more difficult to use than the smelly lacquer and enamel paints. That's why you will almost always see me using lacquer, but I know it's not a good option for everyone. Maybe one day I will master acrylic paints but I have not done so yet.

Jack The Vallejo Model Color paints are much thicker than the Vallejo Model Air paints. The model Air paints are designed to go straight from the bottle into the airbrush without any thinner at all, but I usually end up adding a few drops of thinner anyway. The Model Color paints are well suited for brush painting but if you are going to shoot them through the airbrush you will need to experiment with more thinner until you get the right viscosity. I have not used the Model Color range through my airbrush so I cannot say with any confidence exactly how much may be required, but if you started with a 50-50 mix of thinner to paint, just bump it up by measured increments (drops) until you get the results you want. Practice on scrap plastic or even paper. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up with 60% thinner in the Model Color paints. Your mixed paint should move through the airbrush just fine with 20 psi if you have the right ratio of thinner to paint.

To be fair, there are some compelling reasons to manufacture your own weapons systems. Doesn’t necessarily mean you will do it better but it does give some better control of the supply chain. No one has a monopoly on intellect, but resources and finances are another matter.

Do you guys remember Danny, the card modeler/moderator from Australia? His work was phenomenal and what first drew my attention to what was possible with card modeling. He and Chris are guys that that have inspired me to at least give this medium a try. I’ll have fun even if I screw it up. I’ll chalk it up as a learning experience.

I can guarantee that ain’t happening. But that guy made it look so easy.😀 And it flies? Sheesh. He’s rubbing it in now. Mine might fly into the trash can before it’s all said and done, that I can say with some level of confidence. 🥸

Excellent. Congratulations on a great model.

Let's see how this first one goes. I can already see there is a lot to learn. One lesson learned is to buy a kit package that includes laser cut frames. Cutting the frames is tedious to say the least. My kit has some small airfoil ribs that are going to take some magic to cut without obliterating them.

Wow, big savings there. The orders I put in with GPM had what I felt were reasonable shipping charges. I'll play around with the Answer site to see what happens with more items added to the cart.

The company that publishes this kit, Answer, offers a laser cut frame package for less than $2. The cost/charge to ship that $2 item is over $30. I passed on it.

Lol 😂 It’s enough to get by as long as you’re following the diagrams as you read it. It’s like hearing someone speak broken English. 😀

For this 1st model, I will forge ahead with the chipboard but in the future, will find some proper 1mm white card if I can. Otherwise will laminate as you described. I can see where the chipboard will be a bear to cut. I agree. Will try to find a pair of appropriate size o rings for the tires.

If you look at the attached photo, you will see on the left-hand side of the image an area marked off by a dashed line. Within this area are the frames, the wheels/tires, a shaft piece that mounts the radial engine to the firewall (26f), and another pair of parts I cannot yet identify (11a). I know the instructions require the frame pieces to be bonded to 1mm card, but does the fact the other parts previously described fall within the dashed lines indicate these parts should be bonded to 1mm card as well? I don’t see anything that gives clarity to this question.

Thanks Chris. All I have on hand for 1mm card is a brownish-tan material. Knowing I will need to touch up some edges with silver, would I be better off finding some white 1mm card? I am concerned that silver over the brown-tan color of my 1mm card is going to look funky. Am I overthinking this? Will it matter brown or white?

Following is a translation of the instructions from Polish to English as rendered by my iPhone: “Japanese hunter man Nakajima Type KO 3 Nieuport aircraft - history: Nieuport 10 was the first woisk aircraft of the Nieuport brothers company. Later, the company produced aircraft also for racing purposes, but in time-sle wonvey. usma produced aircraft main constructions for combat. The combination of plata gornedo 2 doliayowdho use a temporary wicrow with a ukiad in the shape of the letter Powierzohnia dolny plata was much smaller than the upper one (the difference in other awuptatowce was present). the plane teo tvou was called sesquiplan, or "pottora Wewcachthere was a mnesza), the aircraft of this yp was fortified versions. with a bruise 81 kW, which was marked as Nieuport 16. Nieuport 17 was created in Nieuporta 16, but structurally it did not differ much from its predecessors. Introduced iedvnie aerodynamic engine housings ora7 - what zanewne warniere. machine gun svachronizer. Thanks to this, you could move the rifle from the görny plata near the pilot. Some aircraft were equipped with Le Prieur rockets, designed to combat balloons. Such rockets made it possible to destroy the balloon in such a way that its wvbuch would not damage the attacking plane Rockets were placed 4 each on plata's gniers Nieuport aircraft, despite their advantages, were not devoid of flaws either. The bottom plate would be attached to the tvlko tvlko big point. which was very maio Gowne. Wonocowan, oo cacaos sriskrecalace simply tore the bottom plate from the fitting. Praktvcanie it» in Nieuvorcle 17 this system reached the peak of its capabilities, but this did not prevent Gustaw Delage from designing another model - Nieuport 24. This aircraft had onlywowv kad‹ub, a more convex wing profile and Changed shape of ailerons. The skrzvdel cranes were also reinforced to prevent at least the careful stagnation of the póttoraplata system, and a second Vickers machine gun was added. Masha; on the outside it had very similar dimensions to Nieuport 17. In February and March 1917, the preshedi aircraft tested and despite not very satisfactory results it was assigned to the production of seryin. Problems with the new glitch have arisen, so the assembly of the previous model began in Nieuporty 24 classic tail - Nieuporta 17, and the new model was called Nieuport 24 bis. The last version of the semi-toraplata by) Nieuport 27 aircraft. From its predecessor, pink- Only a split chassis axis and unprofiled vtoza are threaded. Tests were also carried out with other propulsions (Clerget 11E 200 hp, and Clerget 8Bd) to improve the achievements. However, not much has changed. and iedvny eqcopy of this type (Nieuport 25) za-ratwit to the Charles Nungesser front alloy. In total, about 7200 copies of all Nieuportow were produced - From 10 to 27. Technical data: Engine: Le Rhone 9Jb (120 KM) Spread:: 8.21 m Length:: 0.4 m Height: 2.4 m Supporting area: 15.00 m General notes: The model is medium difficult to build. Before gluing it should be Carefully read the general plan of the model and assembly drawings. Parts marked with an asterisk / and elements of a skeleton from 3 sheets / should be glued cardboard 1.0 mm thick. Parts marked with the letter P /right side/ should be glued like L /old side/. Possible allowances belong to the grinder with fine abrasive paper. White-re edge should be retouched with the appropriately selected color of paints / we recommend taking a silver marker available in stationery stores /. The model should be varnished with clear varnish after gluing. We use the principle of fitting part "dry" T. try it on twice - glues once. Model construction: We start construction by gluing the truss of the A3-A6 part of the cadlub. We can make pulls from threads according to the drawing. From the top we glue part of the A11. Soon on sale AIRCO DH.9!!! A19to wregiA9. We make the bottom of the upper wing from part 10b. зАтур01. 52kioret окк рату колтемут с 2.10 u la done oz. 9, skrysto sone 0 0) Doke)ау до кавива (any agrontan, 161 160 С21080 0 в ату 0 . кого онисти, Ora2 strip. Nasteprig doK/olamy shots to skrayde doltych. We then glue the upper wing to the zasiza / 04 g. Z. oze6ci 17 we glue the pyons. 77 /kaciuba wed une/rza skrzydia oónego wash tubkit we glue from the diwbch pages 02 W%. 2/asteenie 2. 20 po uKe.talowanna. We stick to the bottom of the chassis. Zastrzaly, pod we a 07 21 3122 shaped, skieanyda. zem and for glue to the chassis.- Rod waste nik unres 20zang u kadluba. Kola wonde. we according to the drawing from oze, 601 24., and nokseamy do tyia kaarus aa os l chassis. 2 czeso 29 we make tail ploze and doKleja do yu kadiuba. We glue the element 25 poodle r to the A1 bar. We glue the engine cze56 26 1 27 according to drawings E. Menty parts 27i and 27h are made of wire. We glue the cyanosis part 26f to the A1 part, and then embed it on non- Paint. We glue the finished covered to the cadlub. Sinlik. Elements of the engine cover c796% 238 are skidded to the junction, inneir we paint silver Elements 33-35 after forming we glue to the rifle. From part 30 skie.-we wash the windbreak and glue it to the cadlub. Then we make links of functions of the Control according to the summary drawings. The whole model can be varnished by a- Colorless direction. In the model it is recommended to use cardboard and cardboard Laser cut elements out /Including skeleton/, available for sale Shipping at the Publisher and in the Paper-Hobby store! We have fun! We have fun! Publisher Editor-in-chief of Tukasz Wawo¿ny Proiekt model Krzysztof Fiolek Illustrations on the cover Seweryn Fleischer P.PU.H.W. "Answer" Reductiveine model Post office.s. 70th 32-300 Olkusz Predestined dia adults. The editors do not bear Tel. 0-605 913 184 Responsibility of responsibility Fax 0-32 754 46 40 For advertising and advertising training. E-mail: biuro@answer.pl Printing: Printing house Www.answer.pl Answer Publishing House All rights reserved. Reprinting and copying only with the consent of the Publisher. All rights reserved. Retail sale at cente lower) than printed on the cover clearly with the consent of Wvdawe For the model you can buy a set of laser-cut elements price 9.99 zi” I am going slowly with this build, primarily looking over the parts and plans numerous times to familiarize myself with the designer’s intentions. As Chris said earlier, the instructions confirm that parts marked with an asterisk are to be bonded to 1mm card. Am I to assume parts not marked go on as-is, such as the skins?

I even ordered a paper/card model of the F-4E with all the extras. Yeah, I know it's well beyond my skill level for card, but hey, I need it as incentive to press forward. Being the influence that he is, Chris C pointed the direction to a Polish website where eye-popping card models are showcased from modelers all over Europe. Could not resist a Phantom after that visit.

This may have been part of it, but I am not so certain it's the whole of it. Where exactly thoughts and ideas came/come from remains elusive and not beyond debate. The regime of that time dabbled in many things not often seen as 'orthodox'.

A SPAD would be excellent! Love those planes.