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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    What you see on my F.2B is the medium Infini rigging. I would use the Infini fine size rigging on my 1:700 scale ships. I think the medium scales out to be around 1.2 inches at 1:250 scale. Failed to answer earlier, but the thread adheres well to any surface I have tried, plastics, wood, and metal, using thin CA. It would be a real pain to use a slower setting glue in my opinion as you would need to hold it too long in a stretched position until it set. But I have heard of those who use acrylic glue. Probably would work okay with as little stretch except as absolutely necessary to remove sags.
  2. CDW
    Pictured from left to right are rolls of Infini "medium" size rigging, EZ Line "fine" rigging, and Infini "fine" rigging. The first thing to take note of the terms medium and fine are only consistent between like brands. Both the Infini medium and Infini fine are both smaller diameter than the EZ Line fine. The Infini fine is very very fine indeed. Almost invisible. I can't really see a lot of difference in cross section. I magnified the photo as much as possible to let you be the judge of that. All the lycra thread I have worked with seems somewhat inconsistent in cross section. It looks flat, it looks round, it looks something in between, but once it's stretched it all looks alike to me with my mk.20-20 eyeballs. The Infini packages give the actual diameter measurement. EZ Line does not but it's obviously the thickest of the three.
  3. CDW
    Thanks for the nice comments, much appreciated. While I had planned to use a very fine monofilament line and micro tubing for the rigging, I had to switch out to Infini lycra thread. In the past, had successfully used the monofilament and micro tubing for rigging 1:32 scale WW1 aircraft, but found the combination too unwieldy for this 1:48 scale model. Just not enough space to make it work for me. Half that battle is keeping the right focal length between my Optivisor and the model. That’s an issue no matter what medium is being used for rigging. At the right focal length, I find my visor often collides with the model. Several times I almost dropped it because of that. In hindsight I should have made a slightly larger loop for my tie off points. Next time I will do that. I wonder if the Eduard WW1 aircraft kits are reboxed Roden products. Anyone know? In past experience most Eduard kits I have owned were reboxed for their use. The 1:48 Tornado and 1:48 Mi-25 kits come to mind. They are actually Revell and Zvezda kits with Eduard details, instructions, and decals. I ask because I see some interesting 1:48 scale WW1 kits from Roden and may be interested to acquire a few. If the Roden kits were as nice as this Eduard one, I would be pleased.
  4. CDW
    Looking at my photos, realized I left out some of the rigging between the fuselage and inner wing struts. Added those today. Also added the rigging on the rudder and horizontal stabilizer. That's about all the rigging I care to do today. Maybe I'll tackle a little more this evening depending on Mo (motivation).
  5. CDW
    That really is a great OOB wheel well from Tamiya. The Corsair is the one 1:32 Tamiya kit I do not own yet, but your build may tempt me into one of my own. Beautiful progress so far, love your work on it.
  6. CDW
    Did you ever hear Bishop Sheen's teaching about the atomic bomb? It stays in my mind after decades.
  7. CDW
    Thanks OC.
  8. CDW
    I reminded the quote of General Lee, "It is well that war is so terrible, otherwise we should grow too fond of it."
  9. CDW
    Great looking model, Jav.
  10. CDW
    I've been reading a book titled "Marked for Death". It's a historical account on the evolution of aerial warfare in World War 1. It wasn't nearly as glorious and civilized as we often see it portrayed in fictional accounts of WW1 air combat. The book portrays the Red Baron as a cold-blooded killer and somewhat demented in his outlook on life, entitled to kill, being the baron that he was. I was shocked to learn that statistically the average airman had a 70% chance of either being critically wounded or killed in combat. Sadly, the workers that built the aircraft didn't fare well either, many being poisoned by the dope that was used to protect and tighten the fabric skin used to cover the airframes. Ever wonder why two wings were used instead of one? It was simply due to the limitations of the airframe construction materials available at that period of time. Nothing else but wood and fabric were light enough to build an airframe that could sustain flight. Metallurgy of that day did not include the lightweight metallic materials we took for granted in WW2. Two wings could include box-girder construction techniques (wire bracing between the wings) that strengthened the wings to an extent that could survive the twisting effects of flight and abrupt maneuvers.
  11. CDW
    Got to be careful not to paint myself into a corner. Certain details on this model such as the control surface cables will easily be destroyed during necessary handling of the model, so sequence of construction is an issue.
  12. CDW
    My first dog came to me as a free pup when I was eight years old. He was a cross between a German Shepard and Collie. He was a great dog that lived until I was well into my twenties. Never sick until the end. And yes, puppies are not free anymore, generally speaking. On the other hand, if they are properly cared for, the owner will have an investment in vet expense that needs to be covered.
  13. CDW
    Richmond No problem at all. Glad to hear from you again. I used Vallejo white-gray for that.
  14. CDW
    He's a Cavapoo, cross between a King Charles Spaniel and Toy Poodle. Until today, didn't know there was such a thing.
  15. CDW
    This was our little buddy that passed away, Jasper.
  16. CDW
    Yes, the top wing sits forward of the bottom, so it has a tendency to slide forward while under any pressure to bind the top wing to the bottom. Styrofoam could work well to maintain the correct distance between the wings. With this particular model, the cabane struts mount individually to little slots in the fuselage. Those need to first be cemented to the fuselage at the correct angles and at the right height before the two wings can be joined. Cementing them in place at the correct angles and height is tricky. If they are off at all, nothing else will fit.
  17. CDW
    Rigging between the top and bottom wings is attached. Now to reattach all the parts I broke off while doing the rigging. I didn’t say anything about it at the time, but one of our little dogs passed away three weeks ago after suffering with diabetes the past seven years. It finally got the best of him, but he lived thirteen good years and was loved by all, particularly our youngest daughter. Today we bought another little buddy to bring home. His name is Topaz. He will be eight weeks old on November 20 when we bring him home. Our daughter is thrilled.
  18. CDW
    You got that right
  19. CDW
    I used my vast storehouse of vile language while attaching the top and bottom wings. Fiddly doesn’t begin to describe the nature of it, though I do believe there is a certain benefit from going through the ordeal. Patience and endurance maybe?
  20. CDW
    Very nice cockpit. 3D cockpits are a great addition to the aircraft modeling detail parts arsenal. Been seeing some real nice examples of them on Ebay from eastern Europe.
  21. CDW
    There’s a whole ZM family of F-4’s out. I wanted the F-4E, but it’s on back order for now.
  22. CDW
    The 1:48 scale F-4G from Zoukei Mura. I wanted a Phantom on my shelf and decided to build this one for that spot. It won’t be started until I finish my current F.2B project.
  23. CDW
    Yes, top and bottom wings are supported, and each wing incidence angle can be set separately. I rig the top wing before gluing the struts in place. Once the struts are in place with glue dried, I will attach the rigging from the top wing to the bottom wing.
  24. CDW
    It didn’t come with instructions so finding the best way to set it up is a bit of trial and error. What I want it to do is hold everything in position at the correct angles and spacing to allow the wing struts to be glued into correct position. The way I pictured the device with the model in place is not ideal for this task. It needs to be in a nose down attitude to best achieve this ( in my opinion). The device is capable of this but it takes patience to set it up the first time. If you notice, the upper wing of many biplanes sit forward of the lower wing. It helps a lot to know this angle. The device has a graduated scale in degrees for this purpose. It also allows for setting the correct wing incident angles.
  25. CDW
    Thanks Rob. Just ordered some from Amazon. For any that might be interested, check out and bookmark a great WW1 model aircraft site: ww1aircraftmodels.com

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