CDW

When I was a kid, we had a 50 foot tower to dive/jump off into the water at a local lake we frequented. Like you said, it felt a lot higher than 50 feet when you stood on top of it to dive off, but it was darned good practice.

When I was a kid, we had a 50 foot tower to dive/jump off into the water at a local lake we frequented. Like you said, it felt a lot higher than 50 feet when you stood on top of it to dive off, but it was darned good practice.

A circle template is your best friend when painting road wheels. Yours came out great. I know you must be ready to move on to some other task now. 

I always build the entire chassis first and then install the wheels and tracks. Afther that the smaller parts are applied.
 
An early Tiger I model indeed has many wheels. Complicated, but it gave a very smooth ride for such a heavy tank
 
 Making and installing wheels scale  1/1

When I was a kid, we had a 50 foot tower to dive/jump off into the water at a local lake we frequented. Like you said, it felt a lot higher than 50 feet when you stood on top of it to dive off, but it was darned good practice.

Ejection at supersonic speeds without a capsule would defeat the purpose, as it would almost certainly result in death.

When I was a kid, we had a 50 foot tower to dive/jump off into the water at a local lake we frequented. Like you said, it felt a lot higher than 50 feet when you stood on top of it to dive off, but it was darned good practice.

Ok the base PE is on cockpit sides. this was critical cause they HAVE to fit...
 
Left side

Right side

A total of five parts... bottom edge sits on the floor and top edge meets the corner of the side consoles... Perfect fit, I guess I got lucky for a change....
 
Painted....

I guess they are the first class magazine holders....
 
At this point I"m going to continue on with the PE and will post again when the tub is almost done. then we move on to the seat....
 
PS: I'll let you know when I find the ashtray and cup holders......
 
EG

Ejection at supersonic speeds without a capsule would defeat the purpose, as it would almost certainly result in death.

Thanks - yep,more than ready to move on.   I must say that Mission paint is pretty good - 2 or 3 coats with no brush marks.  Sorry about the not so clear pics - I just have a point & shoot camera. It only has 2 settings - really close up or far away.  I really need to get one of those I-phones - they seem to take much better pics than my camera.  My last post is completion of step 4 - now I am wondering if I should assemble the tracks now,or wait until step 18 as the instructions show.  Just a little concerned about snapping a wheel or two off while adding all the  little details to the tank body.
 
Mark

You must be an expert now at painting road wheel tires.... {chuckle} I still have friends that argue with me when I tell them there are 24 wheels/tires per side on a Tiger I....
 
Good Job, getting them to look right can be a task.... these look right....
 
Well done Mark....

A circle template is your best friend when painting road wheels. Yours came out great. I know you must be ready to move on to some other task now. 

A circle template is your best friend when painting road wheels. Yours came out great. I know you must be ready to move on to some other task now. 

I was at the local Hobby Town this week and noticed a new sign in the window..."no credit required, 90 day financing available". 😅
Those RC cars are so expensive, you have to finance them similar to a 1:1 car.

A circle template is your best friend when painting road wheels. Yours came out great. I know you must be ready to move on to some other task now. 

A circle template is your best friend when painting road wheels. Yours came out great. I know you must be ready to move on to some other task now. 

A little progress - all the track wheels are painted & attached (all 48 of them).  Quite a pain to paint - they all have a black ring around them ,which I assume are "tires" - they actually say "continental" on them,which I had to use a magnifier to read.  Had to keep re-painting some of them because I kept smudging them or slipping with the brush.  Never have been much good at painting.
 

 

 
Mark

Yes, as we run out of MM stock, we are switching over to True North. There are several reasons for this. First, of course is that it is good enamel paint. Second, they make it here in Maine, less than an hour away. Third, they are quick to remedy any problems that arise. Fourth, they are willing to make a new color just for us, and have done so 4 or 5 times. Colors like Depot Buff and Jade Green for example. Fifth, they are modelers themselves, and understand us.

Mark, I heard that, too. Guess their parent company is altering the marketplace for us modelers. Time to try new brands.
 
I see you picked up a bottle of Mission Models paint, an acrylic paint. I watched an hour long video on it's usage. It was all airbrushed, although the first demo was unthinned. I think it can be brush painted; I ordered some to try out. They have a thinner (mostly alcohol per the video maker), which is really an retarder, shown in the second demo. And something called a polyurethane mix for increased durability. Here's 1 review: https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/mission-models-acrylic-paints
Here's the Youtube: http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=7401

Ejection at supersonic speeds without a capsule would defeat the purpose, as it would almost certainly result in death.

Ejection at supersonic speeds without a capsule would defeat the purpose, as it would almost certainly result in death.

Evening all  - so glad to see our refreshments have turned  up  - building is so much more fun on popcorn,    so  work continues  with the  cockpit tub  -  I gave the bang seat  a bit more weathering  really starting to bring the details out now,    next off was  the tub its self  -  I painted the side walls in flat alum  then gave the rest of it a mid sea grey wash in watery coats,  then I used a mixture of Black and  alum high lighting to bring the details out, same principle with the instrument panel and the rear plate,  I then glued them together  and dry fitted the seat  to check it out.
 
Still needs the HUD, and a few other fittings.
 
OC.

Ejection at supersonic speeds without a capsule would defeat the purpose, as it would almost certainly result in death.

We had a T-33 seat we were strapped into, when I was in pilot training. It had a ballistic charge to propel us up some rails to about 50 feet or so. Got all hooked up, assumed the position with your helmet pressed into the headrest and pulled the side handle. POW up the rails and get lowered back down. That was it in 1970. I did para sailing, pulled behind a truck for land parachute training and an AF Twin Merc cruiser off an AF LCM in Biscayne Bay for water survival training.
 
We did a lot of other egress training, as it was termed, when we got into the Phantom. Yeah, it's very aircraft specific. Although, nowadays, at least, the ejection seat used by most of our jets is the ACES II. I flew that twice, about 40 years ago. Much easier to strap in due to no leg garters. I'll explain.
 
The Martin Baker seat required a number of connections via straps to the seat. Calf, thigh, butt(seat kit), lap-belt, parachute risers, plus comms, mask and g-suit. The leg stuff kept you from flailing legs, the butt clips were to keep you and the survival kit/one man raft connected. Since the "chute was built into the seat, you needed those. Proper upper body position was via the overhead handle rings or the one between your legs. Preferred was the one 'tween your legs, but on takeoff, that one would be hard to get at with the stick back into your lap. Again you had to assume the position. There is/was always a risk of compression injuries to the back, getting fired out of the cockpit. The seat started with ballistic charges sending you up the rails. A 6' lanyard, attached to the bottom of the seat, fired the rockets to shoot you up and way over the tail. I had one guy get a flail injury to his shoulder, due to his loose helmet coming off, flinging his arm back and chipping the end of his should bone. He was grounded about 3 months. The fatalities were usually due to ejecting outside the seat capability (too fast, too close to the ground in an unusual attitude).
 
The F-104 was designed as a high altitude interceptor and the seat fired down. I think the B-58 did a similar ejection envelope. I believe the first one the Europeans got had these seat and when the need to bail, since they were flying low... The G model they ended up with had  a normal upward firing seat.

Wow... that's one impressive kit.