Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
.jpg.7e80607770d9078b2f0b470e8c9c33ac.jpg){kind=spacer}
CDW
-
Posts
7,724 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.
-
CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Thanks Ken. I'm going to give Doc Rob's suggestion a try and attempt to create a few icicles here and there. Never tried it before but have wanted to. Now's the time.
-
CDW got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.
-
CDW reacted to Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Hmm, Russian C rats on the bottom, ice cream on top? 😁
The snow and ice look really good, Craig. I can remember winters in various places I've been with gear looking like that.
-
CDW got a reaction from AJohnson in P-38J Wicked Woman by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/48
That's a very fine model with an excellent selection for markings. The aluminum finish is brilliant.
-
CDW got a reaction from DocRob in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.
-
CDW got a reaction from Egilman in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.
-
CDW got a reaction from ccoyle in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.
-
CDW got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
With the tracks painted, the wheels and track are placed back on the model. I've used some scrap pieces of foam to bring the top part of the tracks down onto the road wheels and give it the natural appearance of sag seen on real tracked vehicles. With this being said, it finishes the saga on tracks and will now move forward with adding the remaining details and weathering the model.
-
CDW got a reaction from NavyShooter in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Making a feeble attempt to create snow effects on the model. I'm halfway in and at a point of no return now. The small "canvas tarp" laying on the engine cover is made of tissue paper. Under it are some small sections of 1:4 inch square balsa stock to add some appearance of a cargo the crew is trying to protect. No more room inside the fighting compartment.
-
CDW got a reaction from Canute in P-38J Wicked Woman by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/48
That's a very fine model with an excellent selection for markings. The aluminum finish is brilliant.
-
CDW got a reaction from Old Collingwood in P-38J Wicked Woman by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/48
That's a very fine model with an excellent selection for markings. The aluminum finish is brilliant.
-
CDW got a reaction from DocRob in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
With the tracks painted, the wheels and track are placed back on the model. I've used some scrap pieces of foam to bring the top part of the tracks down onto the road wheels and give it the natural appearance of sag seen on real tracked vehicles. With this being said, it finishes the saga on tracks and will now move forward with adding the remaining details and weathering the model.
-
CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
The red arrow points to the mounting shaft for the idler wheel. This part can be rotated forward or back to add or release tension on the tracks. It's important to initially fit this part dry and only cement it into place after proper tension is put on the tracks after link assembly. The kit instructions do not point this out, it's just one of those things you learn through trial and error and/or careful thought and examination of the entire assembly.
-
CDW got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
With the straight sections of track glued in place and dried, the idler and drive wheel can be slid off to remove the entire track for painting. After painting, will slide everything back in place.
-
CDW got a reaction from realworkingsailor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
With the tracks painted, the wheels and track are placed back on the model. I've used some scrap pieces of foam to bring the top part of the tracks down onto the road wheels and give it the natural appearance of sag seen on real tracked vehicles. With this being said, it finishes the saga on tracks and will now move forward with adding the remaining details and weathering the model.
-
CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
With the tracks painted, the wheels and track are placed back on the model. I've used some scrap pieces of foam to bring the top part of the tracks down onto the road wheels and give it the natural appearance of sag seen on real tracked vehicles. With this being said, it finishes the saga on tracks and will now move forward with adding the remaining details and weathering the model.
-
CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
The red arrow points to the mounting shaft for the idler wheel. This part can be rotated forward or back to add or release tension on the tracks. It's important to initially fit this part dry and only cement it into place after proper tension is put on the tracks after link assembly. The kit instructions do not point this out, it's just one of those things you learn through trial and error and/or careful thought and examination of the entire assembly.
-
CDW got a reaction from mtaylor in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
With the straight sections of track glued in place and dried, the idler and drive wheel can be slid off to remove the entire track for painting. After painting, will slide everything back in place.
-
CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Glad I could help. It's a pain compared to rubber band tracks.
-
CDW got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Individual track links are generally a real pain in the rear to assemble and fit to the model. The following photos show the way I approach the task in individual steps.
I first assemble the number of links necessary to carry the track around the idler wheel and first road wheel. I use Tamiya thin cement to put the links together then before they completely set up to dry, shape/form them around the idler and road wheel to conform to the shape. Use a large rubber band to hold the links in place while they set up.
Repeat the same process to shape a track section around the drive wheel and last road wheel. Again, use the rubber band to hold it in place while the glue sets up.
Assemble the links required to fill in the straight sections between the fore and aft sections completed previously.
This is how it looks when it's all finished.
It's important to NOT glue the wheels in place in the previous steps, as you will later remove the track and wheels so the track may be painted. Once painted, the wheels and track can then be glued in place.
-
CDW got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
The instructions call for 72 track links per side but that’s obviously too short. Extra links are provided and will probably need three more additional to allow for some sag between road wheels at the top. Maybe two will do it.
-
CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
Thanks Rob. I planned on snow but your idea of icicles is great. I had not thought of that.
-
CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
We were shocked when he never tried to remove it. Thought he would for sure.
Thanks Andrew. Can you even imagine how cold it must have been inside a tank during the winter in Russia? Your skin would probably stick to the steel if you touched it.
-
CDW got a reaction from Canute in SU-85 WW2 Soviet Tank Destroyer by CDW - MiniArt - 1:35 Scale
If you are an armor model builder, your best friend will be a circle template when it’s time to paint the wheels. A real pain without it.
Our Emblem ®
