Salty Sea Dog

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing with the bow anchor cathead details, now turning to their needed kevels.
 
It turns out that I had built and installed a second pair that was at one time attached to the quarter-deck, turns out that this was incorrect (see first two pics).
 
 An early Vasa museum plans set (1980) showed two sets per side at that location, as did Landsröm. A second plan set dated 1981 had one set removed. I communicated with Fred Hocker, who indicated that the ’81 set had been corrected.
 
So the two kevels were just lying around, how convenient; shortened them for use at the bow railing, and just added a framing bit for attaching.
 
After gluing, then drilled small holes and inserted black fishing filament to simulate the needed nails.
 
The brilliant fishing line idea is not mine but belongs to one of our MSW members; apologetically I don’t remember whom (I did post a notation on his build log at the time of seeing his very clever idea)
 
Inserted the lines from the rear and left the front ends just a tad proud to simulate nail heads-sort of J
 
G-S cement is perfect for this task. If there were a bit of glue that travelled through the hole to the front end, after a few moments it can be removed with your thumb nail or tweezers, pulls completely off as would rubber cement. LOVE this glue! It has proved to be so versatile. Ferit thank you Again!! You found this.
 
Hint: I attempted to just “hack of" the front tips of the black filament to adjust them, but the blade snagged them and some resulted in angled cuts. Solution was to actually use the razor blade as a slicer moving the blade as I cut. Worked very nicely allowing for a nice clean flat cut. PS: Exacto type blade not up to the task.
 
--------------------
 
Thanks for your “likes”, dropping in for a look, as well as the very welcome supportive suggestions and comments J
 
Regards, as always
 
Michael

Nigel and Ferit,
 
Thanks so very much for your advice. I have made the subtle, but very noticeable change to the knots by counter-sinking the holes. I have also changed how the blocks were laced.
 
Lastly I added the small details of the metal bracings at the sides of the cathead pulley rods.
 
Cheers guys and (:-) for you
 
Michael

Mark,
Hello Michael
I see my kit comes with 4 small turrets & 2 large ones.The plans show the large ones placed at the front of the lower gallery.Wouldn`t you think they would go at the rear?
 
/Mark
 
Noted. Yes another Corel error to add to their list. I realized this as I was building the turrets. The lower galleries should have two same size large turrets. The only small ones are on the upper galleries.
 
I sent Corel an email requesting two large turrets. Their CS is very nice. They have sent me several parts to date. You will need, of course, to make your request “legit” I did note from where I had purchased the kit, and that they would not supply missing parts.
 
Be sure to add a jpg of the part(s) you need from their build sheet, along with the part, and their kit “S” number. Note the museum pic and my "fix”.
 
Their email is info@corel-srl.it
 
 
Please feel free to post or PM any questions that you have as you go along (:-)
 
At least your Corel is in its early stages. Armed with your excellent level of knowledge about this ship your alterations will fall into place nicely. Mine was quite a way along before I learned of my many mistakes (:-) Again, I'm very happy to help
 
PS: I think that I also asked for a few extra large size decorative figures.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

Have a great time and take lots of pics!

Lol! I can't get anything past you guys. I can't remember where I got that 13" penny, but you have to admit, it's still a challenge to make a knife when your hands are nearly 11 feet long! 
 

Wow, nearly a month has gone by! I've made 2 trips to Colorado, finished up my last projects at my Wichita job and have been packing and working on the house. This move feels almost like an impossible task because we've aquired so much stuff. I tell my wife that I'm a collector but she's a pack rat! To be fair though, my stuff is bigger and harder to move than her sewing and craft stuff (getting the bandsaw out of the basement was a bear!) I've been feeling a bit overwhelmed and decided to take a boat break the second half of today.
 
Although there is no mention of a boat's knife in the Artesania Latina plans, the Model Expo "To Build a Whaleboat" book shows the making of one for the New Bedford Whaleboat kit. I thought it would be fun to make a little knife so I shaped a knife blank from a piece of tin sheet that I found at the hardware store. The knife is patterned and scaled on a 15" Bowie knife.

 
Cow bone is often used to make to make nuts and saddles for acoustic guitars and I thought it would be cool to make a bone handle for the knife. Luckily, since I'm a pack rat - I mean collector, I saved some bone sadle cut-offs. Little handle blanks were slabbed out of the scrap.

 
I managed to get one side attached and drilled for pinning. Next time I need a boat break, I'll try to finish it.

 
Best wishes,
 

Never let it be said that I kept Popeye waiting------
 
The installation of the gun deck has been completed
 
Just to review (since it's taken so long), the deck is Swiss Pear supplied by Jeff at HobbyMill.  Fantastically uniform material  -- BIG thanks to him.
The planks are all scale length of about 25 feet.  The meeting of the deck planks to the margin planks was carried out using hooked scarph joints.  I received some queries on these:
 

 
As I came to discover, Swiss Pear is pretty tough stuff but it holds an edge very well.  After going through several Social Security checks worth of Exacto blades, I came up with the following procedure:
 
A card stock template was carefully fitted into the spot to be filled and, using double-sided tape, attached to the plank.  The outline was then cut using a fine belt on a belt sander.  Takes a steady hand.  Given my aversion to power tools, I was surprised how well it worked.
 
So here are a series of photos showing the deck from different perspectives:
 

 
The treenailing was created using the 'drill and fill' method using #75 pin vise drills.  There are about 1200 holes (but who's counting).  The fill material is Hobbylite that I dyed with some acrylic paint to get just a tiny bit of contrast with the deck itself.  The entire deck was finished using the sequence of Minwax Pre-Stain followed by Natural stain, 2 coats of WOP and 2 coats of Testor's Clear Flat Acrylic:
 
 

 
 

 

 

 
A lot of this deck will be obscured by the partial upper decks and deck beams.
 
I need to do some touching up here and there on the ship and install some ladders in the hatchways.  At that point the shop will be closed for about a month as the Admiral and I are off to do some globetrotting  After that it will be on to the cannons.
 
Thanks to all for stopping by.  Enjoy the upcoming change of the Seasons !
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the comments and the likes very kind of you.
 
Started working on the ropes for the anchor catheads. I wasn’t sure about how to detail the blocks. On the 1/10th the blocks were capsuled with metal bracings, not rope. This created a bit of a scratch of the head.
 
So I chose this solution;
 
1) re-drilled the block holes increasing their size.
2) drilled two more holes in each block, one for the hook and the other two for the pulley rods.
 
Looking through my boxes of “stuff” I found a copper tape strip that had adhesive backing. Hmmmm, that might work?
 
Cut the tape into a narrow strip and wrapped it around the block.
 
Glued the hook with CA, and pulled a drill bit through making sure that the hook was not blocking a rope hole.
 
Cut some flat head nails and glued them to the sides of the block.
 
 
Painted the added bits with flat black paint.
 
Lastly added the ropes attaching the blocks. Next up will be the single side anchor cathead and its block.
 
In the last two pics; I removed the knightheads that had been built such a long time ago, as well as removing the railing leading out of the upper gun deck, both of which are incorrect for Vasa. I will rebuild the knightheads to correctly reflect the Vasa’s. Tossed the railing (it was so nice (L)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Agree with Mark. Some pictures really build some doubt as if they were taken from the big ship itself. You have a fantastic model to show.

Update time finally. Here are the finished chainplates and channels for the main mast:
 

 

 

 

 
It's some work to make them, especially reshaping the deadeyes and scratching the metalparts. It feels good to do some other work now before starting with the next mast. 
 
 
/Matti

Further to my build i have enclosed a photo or two.

Late to the party, but Happy Birthday Matti!!

Some tests with the rudder attachement.
 

 

 

Update, finally finished with the "holes".
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the kind words Jack! I'm getting closer to setting up my dry dock. Was just searching for my drafting lights...

Hi Buck
 
Just discovered your build log. This model was my 1st also albeit some 20 years ago. Didn't come out as nice as yours tho. Been enjoying your build. Good luck with the new house. I have a sister who lives in Colorado also ; they live in Lakewood, used to live in Arvada until a "prairie fire" started by some kids burned them out of their house. I was out there in 1977 with the family - toured the whole area - rode the Denver Rio Grande & Western out of Durango to Silverton. Great times.
 
Your workmanship is inspiring. I especially like the effect of the French polishing.
 
Jack

Hello Everyone,
As promised, here is the latest update to my whaleboat. The plans and guide state that the first strake to be placed inboard is the thwart riser followed by the adjacent ceiling. Care must be taken to ensure that the thwart riser is 5/8” below the gunwale between stations 1 ½ and 4 ½. Forward and aft of these point the measurement is 11/16” giving it a gradual slope. The thwart riser starts from the most forward most frame and will continue aft up to the second from the last frame. Once you have placed the thwart riser, it is time to tackle the adjacent ceiling. The adjacent ceiling needs to be trimmed and/or sanded to get a nice tight fit along the thwart riser. Also, you will have to cut and install short wide pieces which cover the frames at the bow and stern.
Once that is complete you can go ahead and trim the slot along the keel to accommodate the centerboard trunk and mast step. The plans are nicely drawn and it is a simple process of getting the measurements for both of these items. Now I must point out that the height of the centerboard trunk is level with the thwart riser. I found it easy to add a strip of timber from the port thwart to the starboard thwart and use that as a guide to get the correct measurement for my centerboard trunk. Now before you glue it into place, make sure that you bore the pivot hole for you centerboard. The mast step is a simple affair so I’ll not go into it with the exception of pointing out that you will not bore the mast hole for it at this time.
Since it was raining today, I had plenty of down time to concentrate on the deck’s ceiling. I started the first plank near the centerboard trunk and work outwards. The first 4 ceiling planks are easy due to the fact that they only receive a 90 degree cut at their ends. The fifth and sixth planks are a little more time consuming because they have extreme angle that need to be cut just so. After the installation of each ceiling, I marked my boards where the simulated treenails would be placed above each frame. The following photos will show you how she’s coming along.
 
 

Hello everyone, I realize it’s been a while since my last post so let’ me see if I can bring you all up to speed. I last left off adding the strakes and batten seams to the form. I continued this process until getting to strakes 5 and 6 where these strakes need to be cupped to follow the contour of each section mold. The process is pretty simple in which you can either wet or steam these strakes attach it to a 5/8” x 5/8” quarter round molding and clamp in place until dry. Once dry, you add these strakes to your form. After the sixth strake the strakes no longer butt up against each other but start to lap. This can be seen when it is time to work on the sheer strake that needs to be completely beveled with the last inch heading towards the bow. Once the sheer stake is glued in place it is time to start working on the gunwale strake. You will notice that the gunwale strake is 1” shorter that the sheer strake due to the fact that gunwale strake will be placed 1” from the bow.
Once your strakes have been given enough time to dry, it is time to pin the temporary retaining batten to the cap strip to protect your gunwale from harm. Once the retaining batten is in place, you can now remove the hull from the horses. Removal is really simple. All you do is pry off the gluing tab that holds the jig to the bow and stern horses. Once done, you score along jig and the amidships horse to separate it.
Once the hull is separated, you can now go through the process of using the mold forms and a compass to draw your lines for your frames. You will get your measurements from the “Plan Views – Inboard Construction” on sheet 2 of your plans. The laminated frames are a simple process of steaming your frames, pinning it in place until dry, and finally gluing them in place.
I’ve also had enough time to carve up a scaled man to show relative size of the whaleboat. I my carving of a man to be 5’ – 8” tall and at this scale he came out to be 4 ¼” tall. I also could not help but notice that he had a barrel chest making him look like a tank hence being dubbed “Hank”. The following photos will show you how everything is coming along.
 
 

Greetings to all,
Upon completion of the bow post, stern post, and keel it was time to add the garboards along the keel. Care must be taken into account when dealing with the garboards. First you will have to bevel the garboard section that rests along the keel. It is crucial to properly support the garboard on a thicker board when beveling so as not to accidently snap your garboard. Once you are happy with the bevel along the keel it is time to bevel the opposite edge of said garboard to accept the first strake which must overlap the garboard by 1/16”. Once the bevels are done, it is time to dry fit the garboard along the keel to ensure you are happy with the seam. If not, now is the time to tweak the bevel so as to get a tighter fit. When you are finally satisfied, it is time to glue the garboard in place. This is where my wife’s fabric steamer comes into play again. The garboard will rest flatly along the section molds but will drastically bend almost 90 degrees along the bow and stern posts. I steamed these sections for approximately 40 seconds, placed the garboard back on the form and held it in place with rubber bands until dry. Once the bow side of the garboard was done I tackled the stern side and repeated the same procedure. Afterwards, it’s just a matter of time to allow it to dry and glue onto the form.
The first strake is the first one you will need to bevel until you get to the sixth strake which I’ve not come to yet. After the first strake has been added to the model, subsequent strakes are joined to it with a seam batten beneath. In the event you are not comfortable gluing these sections over the section molds, it is recommended to use paraffin wax on the section molds to avoid accidently gluing your model to it. The book actually states that once the strake has been glued down, it is time to add the seam batten by lifting the strake slightly to accommodate the seam batten. I found it easier to pin the seam batten on the section mold and glue the strake to the previous seam batten and the new one. I’ll continue this process until I get to the gunwales. The following three photos will show what I have thus far.
 
 

Greetings to all,
Please excuse the fact that I have been away from the ship yards for a while. It’s been pretty busy over here with the move and having to fix a leak under the sink that I could not find until after I broke under the concrete slab.
Well as most of you know, I had the New Bedford Whaleboat kit a friend of mine gave me for the assistance I provided him on the back porch of his house. For starters let me give you a brief history lesson of the New Bedford Whaleboat.
“From 1720 to 1920, nearly 60,000 whaleboats were consumed by the American whaling industry. With a useful life of no more than three years, whaleboats were discarded on the spot throughout the costal U.S. and around the world. Remarkably, only a dozen or two have survived to become part of today’s museum collection.
In 1916, the Dartmouth Historical Society commissioned the building of a half-sized model of the bark LAGODA. Local whaleboat builder Joshua Delano was retained to build seven half-sized model whaleboats needed for the project. Delano built these models according to the design of the full-sized boats he had built for the whaling industry for more than 40 years.”
Now that I have brought you up to speed, let us begin into my journey of the New Bedford Whaleboat. Well the first thing one should do is inventory all supplies within the Model Shipway’s kit. I did so and realized that there were a few missing items that I was able to acquire at my local Hobby lobby.
After that was done, I looked over the plans and read, “To Build A Whaleboat, Historical Notes And A Modelmaker’s Guide” by Erik A.R. Ronnberg, Jr. I must say that this item is invaluable to the person who wants to tackle the whaleboat. After reviewing and reading everything, I tackled the whaleboat’s form by assembling the profile and section molds. Before you begin gluing the section molds to the profile mold, it is best to make your bevel for the battens and planks to section molds 1, 2, 4, and 5. Once complete, mark the areas on the section molds were the battens will be placed and the water lines that will coincide with the profile’s waterlines. Keep in mind that these marked areas are just a rough guide that will assist your placement of the battens.
Upon completion of the form, I tackled the horses that will have the form mounted upon. I must say that Model Shipways tries to do their best by these models but there are certain places that need to be tweaked just so for a proper fit of the form upon the horses. I made a construction board in order to glue down my workhorses. First you will have to establish the centerline down the length of the board and place the midship horse, widthwise for form section 3, as carefully as you can due to the fact that the bow and stern horses will take their measurements from this one. Upon the proper alignment of all 3 workhorses, I placed and glued my form on top and let it dry. The following three photos will show you what I have thus far. Until the next episode, here’s wishing you and yours a happy voyage home.
 
 

Mmm! I'm a hungry carnivorous gnome! Guess I better learn rigging!

Greetings to all,
Well this past Labor Day weekend I did not do anything to my whaleboat so the progress that I have to report is small so I’ll post them tomorrow. On the other hand, I did go to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon with my wife and just enjoyed my time off to take in the sights. I want to share the following pictures with all of you and I hope you enjoy them as much as I did.
 

Mmm! I'm a hungry carnivorous gnome! Guess I better learn rigging!

Hans, as I said, I´ll take any gnomes, regardless of color, height, weight, nationality, religion, political view and hobby preferences, since they help with rigging!
;)
 
Sjors, that´s valid to everyone.
 
As for the churrasco, well, that´s a barbecue - brazilian style. Many different types of meat grilled over charcoal - it begun as a gaucho tradition (from the south of our country/continent) and developed into a national passion. Churrascaria is the typical restaurant which serves churrasco. In a churrascaria you eat as much as you can have - meats come at your table every 30 seconds or so. Pictures follow, as solicited (hope everybody be well fed at this moment):
 
The way it´s prepared:

 

 
The way it´s served:

 

 
And the caipirinha, a drink made from pinga (a strong sugar cane spirit), sugar, lemon and ice.

Lol! I can't get anything past you guys. I can't remember where I got that 13" penny, but you have to admit, it's still a challenge to make a knife when your hands are nearly 11 feet long!