JeffT

Welcome to MSW 

Welcome to MSW, David.   If you'll go here this sub forum https://modelshipworld.com/forum/133-kit-build-logs-for-subjects-built-from-1501-1750/ and use the search function, you'll get hits on the logs.  You will probably need to do two searches, one for Wasa and the other for Vasa. Those logs will give you a good idea of what's involved as well as the strengths and weaknesses of the kits.
 
In the past, the Billings kit was considered the most accurate but I've heard that kit mentioned above is excellent as the Billings kit instructions were, shall we say, a bit sparse.  And from what I've heard, the quality of the Billings fittings aren't the best anymore.
 
As for tools.... for a kit, basic hand tools.  Here's like to the data base where they are discussed:  https://thenrg.org/resource/articles
 

Your comment re packing and damage in transit is apposite ... I’ve just received my Endurance kit and found this on opening:
 
 

How do, gentlemen (and ladies)?
 
Much to my surprise, as a usual aircraft-basher, I find myself joining ModelShipWorld.
For many years I dedicated my kit-bashing to things aerial, then I happened upon an old Zvezda 1/100 Pourquois Pas two weeks ago in a thrift store.  At $8 I wasn't saying no.
 
To paraphrase the Marines say, I never leave a kit behind.
If it's a kit I'll rescue it.
 
Matter of fact, if it wasn't for aircraft I'd have happily focussed on naval models.  I'd even collected the Hatchette Bismarck part-series, because I'd always wanted a kit of that amazing ship.
 
I have also flitted about on sailboats, in an earlier life. 
The urge to build a rigged ship is now strong, again.  There's something about a rigged ship in a glass case on top of a cabinet that adds a certain gravitas, isn't there?
 
Meanwhile, I shall continue binge-reading to catch up on necessary info, before I start asking questions that already have answers.
 
Cheers all.
 
 

3ft tall (half scale) and weighs about 13lbs

That looks to be quite a large model.

That looks to be quite a large model.

That looks to be quite a large model.

STAGE 96: ADD THE LEFT KNEE CAP AND ASSEMBLE A TOE

The two kneecap parts are glued together and then the part glued to the leg.

And the construction of the toes also begins.

 
 
 
 
STAGE 97: BUILD PART OF THE LOWER LEG, AND A SECOND TOE

The lower led is now started, and another toe built.

 
 
 
 
STAGE 98: CONSTRUCT THE THIRD TOE, AND EXPAND THE LOWER LEG ASSEMBLY

More work on the lower leg with the attachment of muscle pistons, and another toe is born.

 
 
 
 
STAGE 99: BUILD A FOURTH FOOT PART AND ASSEMBLE THE LOWER LEFT LEG

The outer shin is now attached to the lower led....and another toe in the series is built.

 
 
 
 
STAGE 100: ASSEMBLE THE LEFT FOOT AND ATTACH THE LOWER LEFT LEG

After building the last toe, then can all be fitted to the foot. It's vital to check the toe orientation and position from the instructions or it'll just look weird. I know as I did it upside down the first time. First, the lower toe joints are secured to the lowest point on the front of the foot, then the upper rods fasten to the connection above this.


 
The lower let is now fastened to the T-800 with a single screw. As there is a ratchet disc on this, it can also be posed at the end.


 
Until Pack 11....that's it. 😃
 

Welcome to MSW. If you want good instructions then go with deagostini. I can't speak for the quality of the kit though. Its also the more expensive option.

I'm not familiar with the various Vasa (Wasa) kits on the market, but this subject has come up in the past on several occasions, for example here (note: I only searched for "Vasa," not the "Wasa" variant spelling). Hope that helps get you started.

I have begun considering building a classic vessel. Vasa is my choice for its history and beauty. My skills are intermediate, or indeterminate, as my kids say. Which kit, price is secondary to quality, offers results I can be proud of? Are there tools unique to such ship?

Thank you very much, I'm starting to feel better about my cannon ports.  The flaws are hardly visible when its on the shelf .

Welcome to MSW. It looks like you're done good work so far.

Welcome to MSW. It looks like you're done good work so far.

Welcome to MSW. It looks like you're done good work so far.

I did a couple of photos last night just showing the various completed deck fittings sat in position on the deck. There are a couple of assemblies I've incorrectly positioned, but everything will be ok when she's done.
 
About one month since work began.

The keelson is build up from 4 segments. The slots have to be cleaned and checked first before installation, so that the frames will fit into them later.
 

 
Test-fit on the plan..
 

 
... and on the frames. Still nothing is glued yet.
 

 
I will make some final adjustments next weekend. Stay tuned and save.
 
Andreas

Hello, Spooky.
 
Welcome aboard! Your project is looking good so far. It's true that Polaris would have been easier, but not greatly so. Albatros (if I'm thinking of the right kit) is a topsail schooner, so the rigs will be similar, except that Albatros will have one or two square-rigged sails -- not too much to worry about. Rigging can be daunting, but no more so than double-planking a hull for the first time. Make sure to read through all the instructions and diagrams, and think of the task as a series of concrete steps. OcCre's photo instructions and diagrams are usually pretty good and should be a big help during the process. As for your gun ports, they're not half bad; perhaps a little work with a square or flat file will square them to your liking.
 
As for a third model, any model of Golden Hinde will be pure conjecture on the designer's part. Reliable source material from that time period is notoriously sparse. If that's the sort of vessel that appeals to you, I'm sure it will be within your abilities once you have completed your first two projects.
 
Good luck!

Hell everyone.  I started my first wood model, the Occre albatross a few months ago, and I bought the Occre polaris as well.  I probably should have done the polaris first 😂.  Its been going pretty well, but I'm nervous about starting the masts and rigging.   I'm also looking for suggestions about books to buy that will be helpful, and tools that I need, because I don't actually own anything shown in the pictures.   I kind of screwed up the cannon ports, and I would greatly appreciate any advice regarding making them look less lopsided without ruining the model.  I'm also looking for suggestions for a 3rd model.  I really like the look of the Occre golden hind, but I'm not sure how historically accurate it is.

 

Just to add, I will be providing enough pear strip second planking to go up to the upper laser cut planking pattern. The upper half of the patterns are to be painted and has markings for all channels, quarter hammock crane stanchions etc. The lower half of the laser cut pattern is not so essential, so that area can be planked in the normal manner if desired. The lower side rail/planksheer parts that intersect the gun ports will cover the join between the upper and lower pattern. So a standard planking option below that level is an option.
 
I am doing the CAD drawing for plan sheets whilst Jim makes the prototype model from the production parts. For me, that's about another 6 weeks work...

A couple of solid weeks work for this update.
 
I've actually built quite a lot more deck stuff as well as what you see here, but I'll keep this update to the hull alone.
 
With the first layer pear bulwarks fitted, the hull was planked in 1mm lime, tapering as I went. The shape of this hull is actually very friendly when it comes to planking, and I'd say it's ideal for anyone who's built a couple of easier models beforehand. The hull is then sanded smooth.




 
 
The stern counter can be fitted direct, but I opted to soak and curve it first, marking on the positions of the MDF frames underneath so that I can pin it properly. Note this is the 'inner' 1mm part. The finishing outer part is 0.6mm and can be glued straight over this later.


 
 
All inner 3mm pear keel parts (keel, prow and stern rudder post) are now glued in position. 

 
 
As with Chris' other designs, the keel is then covered with engraved external faces. These are located with pegs and then they are fitted, they create a natural rabbet for the second layer pear planking.

 
 
The second layer doesn't start with planks, but with eight pre-cut sections that are shaped and engraved (4 per side). The fore ones are again soaked and left to dry out overnight so they come back to their original size (pear expands quite a lot when wet).





 
 
 
The outer stern counter is now glued into place.

 
 
 
Again, before planking, there are two pre-shaped plank layers to add, directly below the previous parts.


 
 
 
NOW we can do the second layer planking! These are full length strips of 0.8mm x 4mm pear. These are fitted with CA gel (Gorilla Glue) spots, and tapered as I go along.

 
 
As all the second layer is now on, and there's little chance of the bulwarks spreading outwards, the temporary jigs are all removed and their positions cut down.

 
 
Before sanding down the second layer, the engraved areas are first masked off to prevent any possible damage. Sanding this one down was also quite easy too due to the 4mm wide planks.

 
 
A temporary waterline is now added. This is so I can add any filler I need below this area without it being seen in an unpainted area. That's pretty much where I'm up to now. In fact....I'm off to add the filler right now.

 
 
 

Captain Stama, welcome to MSW. Enjoy yourself, just don't spill anything.