Dubz

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 32 – Waterways, Binding Strakes, Margin Planks
 
Before deck planking could be extended out to the sides, the waterways, binding strakes and margin planks needed to be installed.  I worked on all these things concurrently – partly to break the monotony of deck planking and also to fill the time it took glued planks to dry.
 
The first picture shows the blue waterway is installed on the starboard side.
 

 
Installation of these members on the POB version is identical to the installation on the framed model and is covered in detail in the book and to a lesser extent on the 1:72 blog.
 
The next picture shows the binding strakes being installed.  I made these structural members with Castello to distinguish them from the ordinary holly deck plank.  These members are also joined at the ends with hook scarphs.
 

 
The next picture shows these members and some of the holly margin planking installed at the bow.
 

 
Deck planking at the bow has begun in this picture.  Planks have been notched as necessary to fit around the installed Samson post.  In the next picture a barrette file is being used to clean up the inside edge of the margin plank on the port side.
 

 
The next picture shows all three members installed on both sides of the forward hull.
 

 
After the planks were installed, they were cut out to allow room for the bowsprit to fit against the forward bulkhead below the deck,
 

 
Installing the planks then cutting the opening ensures that the strakes will be aligned.  Of course all this forward planking will be covered by the forecastle.
 
The next picture shows the decking approaching the margin planks at the side.
 

 
Each plank is cut into the margin plank at one-half of its width.  The planks were tapered back to the point of the next cutting.  This process will be covered in the next part.
 
In the last picture the planking is being levelled out with a flat riffler prior to sanding.
 

 
The straight, parallel strakes of decking were continued outward until the gaps at the margin plank were completely closed.  This final fitting will be covered in part 33.
 
 
Ed

I've now finished off the work at the bow with the addition of the hawse plates and the remaining moldings.
 
The hawse plates themselves are simple, but getting the holes through them, particularly for the bowsprit, proved tricky. All of the holes must be done parallel with the keel and at the proper angle. The large size of the bowsprit hole made this critical.To be cautious, I drilled a hole no more than half the required size for the bowsprit, and then used round files to open it out to the full size. It became a matter of filing and fitting until I could just get a dowel of the diameter of the bowsprit at that point through the hole at the proper alignment and angle. This was a tedious process.
 
After finishing that work, I added the remaining moldings to the hull side and the cap rail edge, including the little molding extensions that Chuck has called "ears". The ears required a couple of tries to get them right. I finished up this work by giving the entire cap rail two additional coats of black paint.
 
Next, I am beginning the deck planking process by doing the margin planks and waterway.
 
Bob
 
 

nothing glued on yet.......just positioned......including the deck......................noticed one of my errors....the center line on deck doesn't quite match the center line on the transom....doesn't show up too much though...happened by finishing the deck separate from the ship......
   just noticed that there may be enough stanchions for the waist rail do double them up to make them thicker.....

well ....you guys put pressure on me to try harder ......and in spite of my fight with rushy impatience, i'll continue to try.....will not glue the decks down until i do the nails, adjust the stain a bit, and get all the parts fitting and ready to install.......

ok......still much touching up to do...which i like doing......so i start the rigging now......guess i won't bother posting much anymore....much tedious rigging stuff to do.......at least tedious for me:)...............grateful to have seen some of the wonderful builds here, which were inspiring me to try and make a better effort......but we all have our limitations ...anyways, cheers..................

belaying pins temporarily on ship so i don't loose them....put a little ledge on gangways....can remove if it's a real no no .............decided to put guns on the port side..........slowly getting there.....ordered the taubman plans for basic rigging.....will still have to check about belaying points etc.....got one of chuck's lanterns....no shaky hands allowed ......micro crystal clear for the windows.......he very thoughtfully included two lanterns in the kit, so if you screw up one, which i did a little bit on this one, didn't sand off the burnt edges, ya got another to make good....can'[t believe all the extra considerations chuck puts into his work.................anyways, will have much touching up to do.....
    i glued two of the waist rail stanchions together to make them thicker......many of the sprues attached to the bottom, broke off as they were very thin.....i will probably embed the stanchions i tiny bit lower to give them more purchase..............used blacken it, but will sand and paint..............

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 123 – Companions
 
Once the three ladderways into the lower decks were installed, the companion structures over these three hatchways could be constructed.  Before describing construction the completed two aft of the main mast are shown in the first picture.
 

 
All three structures are similar, with entry doors and a sliding panel to close them off when not in use.  They are fairly intricate structures.  In the one to the left in the picture the doors and sliding cap have been left open.  Unfinished wood on these has been finished with beeswax/turpentine.
 
The first step in making these is shown in the next picture.  The side and forward walls are paneled.  The first step in making the paneling was to trim long pieces with thin horizontal strips. 
 

 
The total thickness of these laminates is about 2 ½” (.035” act.).  These pieces were then cut to fit the coamings and trimmed out as shown below.
 

 
In the next picture one of these is being fitted into the rabbet on one of the head ledges.
 

 
When the three sides were  trimmed to size, they were painted white, fitted with natural wood corner posts and installed on the coamings as shown below.
 

 
Additional internal members and the outer roof planks were then added as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Next, the remaining roof planks, excluding the slide rails, were installed and painted blue.
 

 
The rails, door jambs, door and a closing cross piece were then added as shown below.
 

 
One of the sliding caps that were made to fit over the rails is shown in the picture.
 
The last picture shows the companion over the forward hatch.  The double-door entry to each of these was fitted with very simple brass wire hardware.
 

 
Next will be the two skylights on the poop deck.
 
 
Ed
 

Again, thanks for these comments.  It is hard to ignore good advice.  Since I expend a lot of ink describing processes I am of course very sensitive to all this.
 
I have viewed this process as a micro version of using a radial arm saw to cut a dado - from above with the blade coming forward.  In this case the cut is .028" wide and .028" deep - very small and at high tip speed, very low stress at the cut in wood.  Under heavier duty one might well consider this  a very flimsy setup.  The main advantage of this method is a wide range of saw thickness/cut widths and thus precise sizing- in this case 2".   A second advantage over making a special saw jig is setup time/expediency.  The first advantage is somewhat important, the second less so.
 
Like, Micheal, I too thought less about the exposed blade than the clamping, since no part of me ever got closer than 6" to the blade.  The steel spring clamps were actually very tight, especially considering the low stress, but screw clamps would be better.
 
Obviously, the preferred method would be to use an end mill.  This is as fast but sizes of cut are limited.  My smallest end mill is 1/32"(.03125").   The next step down that I have seen in the less-than-$100 price range is 1/64" - too small.  In retrospect, a 1/32" tread thickness (2.3") would be a very acceptable compromise, and I admit would be the preferred method.
 
I will soon have another opportunity to recover my good reputation for safety when I make the skylight windows.
 
Thanks again for this input.
 
Ed

November 10th, 2015
 
Hi all
the first steps forward in the above scheduling, plus some extras...
 
I decided to draw the waterline as first step, as the following coats of sealer would have protected the WL from the following sandings. This was another “First Time” for me, as I never had the need to do this job in my previous models.
So I built two simple jigs: the first to firmly hold a 2B type lead pencil at the required height, while at the same time providing an ample and smooth contact surface easily slipping on my workbench plan.
 
The second was to hold the hull so that the waterline was perfectly parallel to the workbench surface. This was built in two steps: transverse axis setup and longitudinal axis setup.
For the transverse (athwart) axis I used the hull profiles at bulwark VI(aft) and III(fwd) from Ancre plans, glued to a couple of 20x40x200mm plywood scrap pieces. I then laid a bubble-level across the main deck, from port waterway to stbd waterway, and adjusted the two supports profiles until the deck was horizontal at quarterdeck, midship and forecastle.
On the longitudinal axis, I measured on the plans the vertical distance from the WL downward to the bottom of the keel (false-keel, indeed) at two extreme bulkheads: I found a difference of 8.5mm from bulwark XIII(aft), where the keel deepest point is located, and bulwark V(fwd). So I had to raise the keel w.r.t. the workbench surface such that bulwark V(fwd) was higher by 8.5mm above the table surface than bulwark XIII(aft). This was done by adding wood wedges of increasing thickness under the forward support, until I got the required height difference.
After these alignment steps, I connected the two supports by gluing two battens, so to lock their relative positions, and the hull support jig was completed.
 

 
Drawing the waterline was just a matter of measuring and then working slowly and accurately, in short line pieces, connected one after the other. The height of the WL was measured and marked downward from the sills of three gunports (again forecastle, midship and quarterdeck), then I double-checked with another set of measurements downward from the large molding. The 6 measures matched quite well, and they were at constant height above the table in all three control stations. Then repeated on the other side of the hull.
The trickiest drawing point was at stern, where the hull sloped shape tends to push the pencil tip down... I had to try a couple of times before finding the correct pressure to apply to the pencil.
A couple of shots of the waterline completed.
 


 
Next I draw a dashed line at 5mm constant distance down from the WL: this is the lower edge of the first band of copper plates, which is laid just across the WL.
 

 
Then I started applying several coats of wood sanding sealer, with intermediate sanding by progressively finer sandpaper. You can see several darker spots in above picture: I had to use some CA glue to fix the 2nd layer planks where, in some points, was not glued correctly. Not a problem at all here, as the hull will be coppered and painted, but I must always keep it in mind if I want to build the hull with the wood natural color.... another lesson learned for the second planking phase!
 
In between a coat, sanding, another coat... I wanted to start something different as a distraction side project. I’ve received from The Lumberyard three gun barrels (18pdr long gun, pewter, 1/4 inch scale) that almost perfectly match the size and shape of the 9pdr long guns of my ‘Brik de 24’. So started to build the gun carriages.
Wood type is pear of the darker shade, the same as for the keel and bow timbers.
Below you can see that I divided the cheeks in two pieces, a la françoise, with a step joint in the middle. So glued the templates to the 2mm thick billets using stick glue, easily removable. The other pieces are for the wheels axle.
 

 
The Ancre plans show the carriage with wheels of the same size, 7mm diameter, but I was not convinced about this because the curved shape of the deck usually needs to be compensated by larger wheels in front and smaller in the back. A quick check with a prototype confirmed my doubts: the gun barrel, horizontal w.r.t. the carriage, was aiming downward. So I filed the bottom of the rear wheel, and glued a batten below the front wheel... much better this time, the barrel was almost horizontal:
 

 
So decided for slightly modified wheel sizes, larger in front and smaller in the rear: 7.6(ish)mm and 6.3(ish)mm respectively.
Here below the two cheek couples are glued together to ease shaping and drilling the required details, while the wheels and axles are being prepared.
 


 
Here are all the carriage pieces ready for final assembly (the brass pins in the wheels will be later blackened):
 

 
Assembly jig:
 

 
I improved the visibility of the joints between the two pieces of the cheeks by using a lead 2B pencil, same method as for deck planking. All the holes you see are just 0.6mm pilot holes, to locate the positions of the various details. The larger 2mm holes in the cheek sides are for the recoil breech, which passes through the carriage in the typical French fashion of beginning 19th century. The support sledge for the elevation wedge is still missing.
 
The barrel then: I was not able to find in internet a reliable method to chemically blacken pewter, nothing similar to the effect that can be obtained on brass. So decided to give paint a try: Humbrol n.53 Gun Metal enamel (for plastic modeling) as a color base, plus about 40% of matt Black for a darker shade. The mix was applied after cleaning the barrel from the casting signs and after a deep wash and degreasing of the barrel. Here is the result with the first coat:
 

 
It’s still a bit too matt for my taste; it’s missing that “metallic shine” that I was looking for. But I’ve already experienced with the carronades for my USS Constitution that this paint can be polished using a rotary nylon brush: I’ll show you the final effect as soon as the job is done also for the second gun.
The paper strips painted with the same color are for wheels iron banding.
 
Back to the hull: before giving the last sealer coat I drilled the water scuppers and the hawse holes. In the second picture is also apparent the shade of color of Tanganyika veneer after 3 coats of sanding sealer.
 


 
Last picture shows the first real trial of lining the water scuppers. I’ve already explained before the method I’m testing, now I will try to use it to see how it looks.
A 2.5mm hole is drilled with an upward slant, some standard printer paper is rolled and glued around a 1.75mm drill bit, the pipe is then just inserted into the hole for a dry fit.
 

 
Have a nice day!
Fam

Build log part 25
 
 
the portholes are not fitted yet, (to be mounted after final painting of hull), but the hull is drilled in the oppropriate places, and the upper two rows will have "eyebrows", to keep the porthole glasses clear
 
The unsymmerical tubing for the aft anchorchain is set and stb-side has the upper bow-decoration attached
 
Nils
 

 
I am satisfied with the dull black hull color
 
 

 
front bow decoration as shown / made in the last post
 
 

 
the number of portholes and positions are corresponding with the overview drawing
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi Gents,
 
Thanks very much for your kind words and comments and also for hitting the "like" button, all are very much appreciated.
 
This is the penultimate update, she's completed apart from the display case which should arrive some time this week.
 
I made the Channel Board from 7/16 x 1/16 Swiss Pear, with the template in place I filed the chain cut outs to 1.0mm, I was using 0.04 brass strip for the Chain Plate and didn't need to go too deep. The Chain Plate retaining Paunch is just a straight piece of 1/16 Swiss Pear, the Channel Knees were also 1/16 Swiss Pear.
 
The Chain Plates were cut to a width of 2mm from 0.04mm brass sheet and the end bent around a 1.0mm brass rod, I left a tail on the loop which when fitted would go through the cut outs on the Chain Plate locking the Iron Chain Strop in place, the opposite end had a 0.8mm hole drilled. I pre-shaped my first set of Chain Plates but these turned out to be a dismal failure and a new set was cut and left straight apart from the loop, until they were fitted.
 
The Iron Chain Strop which locks the Deadeye's in place is 0.5mm Copper Wire, this was wrapped around the Deadeye's and a full twist tight beneath them held them in place, the tails were then wound around a 1.0mm brass rod, this loop was then fitted into the loop on the Iron Chain Strops. The Chain Plates and Iron Chain Strops were then blackened using John Penny Antiquing Fluid.
 
Next up came the Swivel Gun Pedestal, These are 3/16 x 3/16 Swiss Pear, they had to be filed down to 6 sides and shaped to fit the Hull and Sheer Rail, a 0.8mm hole was drilled in the top for the Swivel Gun Mounting Yoke. As a small piece of decoration a small sticky backed copper band was placed around the top.
 
The Yoke was made from some spare Hammock Chains from my Agamemnon, they were shaped and cut down to size, 4 x Eyebolts were then glued to top of the Yoke using Resin ( I tried to solder them on but failed miserably, just too small ).
 
The Swivel Guns were next, these little beasties were made from 1/14 x 1/14 Ebony and they done my head in. They weren't difficult to turn except that I still cant get two the same but the basic problem was quite important, I couldn't see the damn things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
 
I had all the lights available to me on the job but I still had to put white paper under them so I could see what I was doing, the only casualty was me in that I ended up with one hell of a headache from eyestrain, anyway the muzzle was drilled out and a hole drilled through to take Trunion.  
 
Next up came the Entry Port Ladders, these were made from 3/32 x 1/8 Swiss Pear. I cut three stripes 4" long and glued them together staggering each strip thus forming the basic shape, they were then cut into 5 x 5/8 steps and each end filed forming the step.
 
The last thing I had to do before assembly was to drill and fill the Hull Treenails, 0.8mm holes were drilled and a mixture of saw dust used to fill back. I made the filling from Holly, Ebony and Pear mixed with a white filler, the end result is quite pleasing to my eye. 
 
With all the parts made it was time to assemble, I fixed the Entry Port Ladders in place followed by the Chain Board, the Swivel Gun Pedestal was then fixed in place. The Iron Chain Strops were then placed into the Chain Board and the bottoms pinned in place. All that was left to fit was the Swivel Gun Yokes, these just pushed into the Pedestal and did not need fixing.
 
A couple of coats of Poly Satin finish and all is complete, so I do have some pictures but as usual I get too involved with what I'm doing and didn't photo the processes.
 
Some Picture
 
   
 
 
 
I forgot to mention the stand, I didn't like the stand, I thought it's a bit too chunky and so cut it down, I wont go into written details as I do have some pics that cover that side.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
So that's it guys, quite a big entry so if anybody has any questions please ask away.
 
Final update will be with the Display Case.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Bitts, bitts and more bitts. The gallow bitts were straight forward and made per the instructions.  The posts were pinned at both ends to help position them on the deck and to provide additional strength.
 

 
Riding bitts and fore bitts
 

 
The galley stack was made from 1/8” diameter brass pipe. I still need to work on my soldering technique as I ended up filling off more solder than what’s needed.  The handles are made from 26 gauge wire and were glued (CA) into holes drilled on each side.  It was then given three coats of black paint.
 

 
The bowsprit bitts were made per the manual except for the cross piece.  I believe there is a typo for its size.  The manual shows it to be 1/16” x 1/16” but on the drawing it scales off as 3/32” x 1/8”.  I used the drawing dimensions.  I didn’t glue this piece to the deck yet and I left out the packing pieces between the posts for now.  I'm waiting until I get to the bowsprit mast to make sure everything fits before I secure it to the deck.
 

 
The last thing done was to set all the eye bolts and split rings for the carronade in-hauls. The in-hauls were positioned directly behind the carronades with the extra rings placed mid way between the in-hauls.
 
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 31 – Decking
 
Readers may note that I am going into some detail on methods in this log.  As I mentioned earlier, I wanted these posts to be a supplement to the POB model work described in Volume I of the book.  Once the POB model is framed, common methods are used on both versions, but space did not permit pictorial presentation of both versions.  So this should be helpful for POB modelers who are using the book.  There are also a few twists on this version that may be useful.
 
With all the hatchway and cabin coamings installed, the planking of the weather decks began - working from the central plank outwards with the strakes parallel to the centerline.  Inside the waterways that abut the frames at the side, there are three strakes that follow the curve of the side on the main deck – two thicker structural “binding strakes” and one wide ”margin plank”.  The margin plank is similar to that shown below on the poop deck where there are no binding strakes or waterways.
 

 
In the picture the starboard margin plank is being glued to the tops of the frames and to the top outboard plank.  These margin strakes were made wide enough to “cut in” the ends of the straight planks to avoid feathered-edge tapers that could not be caulked. 
 
The picture also shows the pin clamps that I used to hold all of the deck planking in place on this model.  On the larger, framed version, planks were held down with pins pushed through tight holes drilled in each plank – into the members below.  I did not wish to drill holes in this version, so used “pin clamps” that could be hammered into the plywood bulkheads at the edge of the plank being glued.  I made about a dozen of these by drilling holes through small segments of dowel that would allow a tight sliding fit for ½” long lil pins, allowing the pin point to project from the end by about 1/8”.  The pins were then glued into the dowels using medium viscosity CA.  Pins can thus be driven by tapping the head of the pin with a hammer, and removed by pulling on the dowel with pliers.  There is little stress on the CA joint in either case.  These were very useful to say the least.  The next picture shows the completed poop deck.
 

 
As areas of planking were installed, the tops were leveled out using curved flat rifflers followed by sandpaper.  The planks were initially cut about 1” thicker to allow for this.  As described in Volume I of the book and in earlier posts, the planking material was painted on one side with dark brown acrylic paint before ripping the planks – to simulate caulked joints.  Cutting planks into the margin plank is also described there and in other posts.
 
The next picture shows the first central plank on the main deck being installed between hatchway head ledges.
 

 
Accurate centering of these first planks is important.  Although the hatchways were carefully centered on the bulkhead pattern centerlines, I marked a center on each head ledge by measuring in from the outsides of the hatchway with dividers.  This helped ensure that the planking will be symmetric on each side of the hatch framing.  If hatches are found to be slightly out of line as the planking progresses forward using this method, they may have to be moved slightly.
 
In the next picture a plank is being marked for notching to fit around one of the mizzen bitts.
 

 
Planks will most likely need to be notched to fit around the sides of hatchways.  Where very thin widths would result, wider sections in planks along the side of the hatch were used, cut back to normal width to fit against angled cuts in planks at the ends.  (I will look for a picture and post later.) Dark glue was used for all this planking.   In the next picture a screw clamp is being used to close a joint at the corner of a hatch.
 

 
The next picture shows the main deck planking progressing forward.
 

 
To ensure adequate and symmetrical spacing between plank butts, I used a standard plank length that would span eight bulkheads, 7 spaces.  Planks were thus about 35-40 feet long.  This resulted in uniform and adequate spacing of butts both across and along the strakes.  Planks on these ships were narrow – about 6”.  On this model I used a standard width of 7” including the caulk paint.
 
You will notice that the outer members – waterways, binding strakes and margin plank are not yet installed in the last picture.  This work will be described in the next part.
 
Ed
 
Later:  Here is a picture illustrating the planking configuration described above.
 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 122 – Ladderways
 
With the two larger deck cabins constructed, it was time to turn to the several smaller deck structures.  These include three companionways, two skylights, two small lockers at the forecastle break and the paneled housing for the rudder mechanism.  I thought this work would be the next logical step, before moving on to the several fife rails and the machinery – the windlass, bilge pump, capstans and wheel.
 
In preparation for making and placing ladders and stairs – work that must be done before constructing the companion structures – I had to finally decide the time period to base the model on.  Young America had a long life – 30 years.  Changes were made.  I had tentatively decided to aim for the period after installation of the Howes double topsails (1854) and after pole masts were installed above the topmasts (1860’s?).  Apart from my interest in these features, the two existing photographs of the ship were taken after these modifications.  These photos are the best primary data source available and I spend a lot of time going over them with a magnifying glass.  The photos clearly show two features that differ from the basis I initially used for the drawings and model.  First, the entryway is shown well aft, adjacent to the mizzen mast.  Also, there is a large area of each upper bulwark removed astride the main hatch.  This was undoubtedly to facilitate loading and unloading cargo.  The first picture shows the modification of the bulwarks to incorporate this feature.
 

 
This change also required modifications to the pin rails to move belayed rigging clear of this area.  The next picture shows me cutting the new entryway on the starboard side.  The pin rails in this area were also cut out.
 

 
The decision was now irrevocable, so I can stop thinking about it.  The next picture shows the completed entryways.
 

 
 The method I use for stairs and ladders was fully described in Naiad, Vol II and to some extent in earlier posts.  I use a milling machine to precisely set the angle, depth, and spacing of the treads on the stringers.  The first picture shows this in progress.
 

 
Mirror images of the cuts need to be made.  The stringer material is 4” thick and the slots are cut 2” deep and 9” apart.  The blade is about 2 ½” thick.  I used a 4” (actual) diameter blade so the work will clear the underside of the motor.  You can see by the shortness of the last two cuts that I ran into the column on the mill – but there was still enough material to make all of the 25 degree stairs.  The ladders at the entryway were 15 degrees.  This piece was then ripped into stringer pairs.
 
The next picture shows a pair with treads being fitted.
 

 
After installing the first two as shown, I fitted the other stringer and then slid in the remaining treads.  The next picture shows the finished assembly being sanded to even out the treads.
 

 
The next picture shows a stair assembly fitted into the aft main deck hatch.  There are three of these companion hatchways.
 

 
The last picture shows six of the nine ladder assemblies installed. 
 

 
There is also one into the forward hatch and two at the forecastle break.  These last two were made but will not be installed until the windlass is in place.  With this work done, the companionway enclsores can be constructed – next time.
 
 
Ed
 
 
 

Today I tackled the channels.  No easy way to make these.   You just have to go old school.   These are unlike the channels most have grown accustomed to.  These are much thicker (5/32") and they are not as wide.  When viewed from the side they gradually get thinner buy a little bit.  The bottom is beveled or angled so the outboard edge is just 1/8" thick.   Maybe a hair thicker.
 
Note how the usual cover or cap molding isnt shown.  Basically small notches are filed into the edge and the chainplates will be bolted to the edge.   Many cutters show this feature but there are other arrangements too.  But I figure the original draft should be followed here.  Its an interesting feature.
 
Then the profile along the edge is made old school with a round file, sanding sticks or whatever you are comfortable with.  Note how the gunport splits the channel in two lengths and the edges in the break are not profiled.
 
I had hoped to make the eyebolts and chainplates today but I dont have enough brass strip so it has been ordered.   While I wait I will continue finishing up the outboard details like the scuppers and rudder.  The channels are not glued on yet as I await arrival of more material.  They will be finished up first with eyebolts.
 
The outboard details shouldnt take very long to do.
 

 

 

 

 

Less than a week after finishing the AVS, yesterday I got up far too early, and spent the day at the annual model show put on in Phoenix by the local IPMS chapter. The Modelzona show is one of the largest annual shows, this year it had 550 entries, with my ship as the only non-plastic entry.  
 
I entered the AVS into the Surface Ships class that included some pretty amazing entries, including a 1/700 scale Japanese WW2 carrier in the middle of launching a strike, that had 313 little tiny crew figures servicing the planes and manning the guns etc., as well as 4 different entries by a guy who is a professional model-maker as his day job.
 
At the end of the day, the AVS did quite well. I took first place in Surface Ships, and also Best Ship (all ship/submarine classes).
 

Hello,
thanks for the nice notes. It is a pleasure again.
In the following I will show the next steps to build a pinnace.
First, the gunwales are attached to the framework. Next, the keel planks are fastened.
The last picture shows a size comparison between chaloupe and pinnace.

 

 

 

 
 
 

Hello,
 
here is the continuation of the construction of the longboat.
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
I hope you like it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi, yesterday I visited my friend Aldo, you showed the photos of the model that has just finished
 

 

 

 

 

I did start working on the model again today.  Nothing big.  I just fabricated the boarding ladder steps today.  I made a scraper with the profile I wanted and then cut the steps from the strip.  I was careful to angle the back side so the top of each step was flat and not angled once held against the hull.  There are three steps per side although one is on the wales so its impossible to see after you paint it black.  Maybe if I adjust the camera settings a bit.  The sides of each step were filed to mimic the front profile and then they were glued into position.  I had to cut away some molding for the top step.  The top of each step is deeper than the bottom.   I started with a 3/32" x 3/32" boxwood strip.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

I started the beams of the castle. Before fixing I have to prepare  the tree of the bowsprit to fit in its sill, and the foremast.  I made the bowsprit into four parts; it is a small corvette and I decided to do the same thing for the foremast and mainmast:

 

 
 
 
The cleat of tree parakeet has to be redone: I realized I had made a big mistake by joining the cross on the wrong side!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saw that I had forgot to make the upper hinge parts at the top of the rudder in the black painted area. Made that & got it all on. Al nails are in & rudder is on.
 

Hello,
Nils thank you.
 
Here are the pictures from the first steps to build the pinnace.              

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 30 – Coamings
 
I think I have mentioned before that the term “coamings” describes not only the entire hatch framing but also the fore and aft members. This can be confusing when writing – or reading - descriptions.  The cross deck members are called head ledges.  Coamings for hatchways and deck cabins needed to be installed on the model before decking could begin.  On the full framed version, with its complete underdeck framing, the hatchways were built up on the actual opening.  Since the POB model has only bulkheads at the stations, a template made from the deck plan drawings was used to assemble the hatchways.  This is shown below. (Sorry, the main cabin template is mis-labelled "main hatch" on this early version of the template.)
 

 
The hatchways for the POB model were made in exactly the same way as those on the larger framed model.  I described this process in the build log for the other model and more thoroughly in the book.  In the next picture a dovetailed lap joint at the corner of the main deck cabin coaming is being fitted.
 

 
These corner joints are a bit complex, but as I said, they are well described elsewhere.  In all cases the cross-deck head ledges fit over the ends of the coamings, thus clamping them down.  Head ledges were bolted through the beams, while coamings were fitted over carlings that were normally only wedged between beams – thus having little resistance to upward forces.  The excess stock at the corners was removed after assembly when the corners were squared off and the above deck parts rounded - by sanding/filing.
 
The next picture shows the poop deck portion of the coach coaming being constructed.
 

 
A reinforcing strut was glued into this assembly to maintain the correct width.  The next picture shows a finished hatchway installed on a bulkhead and on to one of the supplementary pine members described in an earlier post.
 

 
To support the ends of the planks forward of this framing, another supplementary member was need and later installed.  In the next picture the coamings on the poop deck have been installed and planking has begun starting with the central plank.
 

 
Note that the cap on the  breast beam was cut out to fit the aft section of the coach framing.  The lower part of this coaming is shown installed on the main deck.  These two assemblies had to be carefully aligned so the side walls of the coach would fit neatly – and vertically.  Another view of this is shown in the next picture.
 

 
This picture shows the first version of the pin clamps I used to hold down the glued planks on this model.  I will discuss the improved final version of these in the next part.
 
Ed

another small step