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Bob Portsmouth

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  • Location
    Portsmouth Hampshire
  • Interests
    Biology, Art, Diving, Ships, boats and the sea, Naval history

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  1. We are of course free to work as we wish. As an adviser on other forums I do try to encourage people to push a little further, to kit bash, even if only slightly, to experiment. I started to make small 'try outs' alongside my build, like a portion of deck, many went to the bin. Some were useful. My skills improved faster the more I pushed. Eventually it became the building I enjoyed more than the finished ship. I have to admit, retirement helps!! So, gentlemen, we have debated. I have nothing further to add. The most important thing is to enjoy the ride and be justifiably proud of our efforts. Good luck to all.
  2. Sorry guys, I really don't understand why you would consider not planking?? Yes, it requires accurate work???? You're mom never said it was going to be easy!!
  3. Vane, if you don't plank it now it can't be done later! If you use the printed board I predict that by the time you've finished the build you'll already be regretting it. But you know what they say about opinions?! Bob
  4. Ok Derek. Just looking at Diligence, it was only 8' shorter than Speedy built on the same lines. There isn't much of a tumblehome (though that could be due to me building??)
  5. Thanks Vane, very kind of you. Derek, I seem to remember the bulwark pieces are cut to a shape that doesn't require lateral bending. I've decided not to scratch Speedy, this build will keep me busy until Maris Stella release their kit. Plus I've been on other project for a couple of years (paintings mostly) so need to get my hand and eye working (I've noticed the arthritis has got worse!!) Lots for all of us to do!
  6. DelF. If you don't laterally bend the strakes (downwards) it's difficult to avoid buckling. See Chuck Passaro's youtube video Planking the Winchelsea. I use a different technique but the thinking is the same. I only single plank so they're a lot thicker, 1,5mm minimum, so I use a steamer cobbled together with B&Q plumbing bits! Then usually clamp onto the frames to set. It's a bit of a time consuming fag but I enjoy planking, and there's loads of guns to build!!
  7. I quite like the Halifax but I chose Speedy because of the graceful looks. There was only Speedy and Flirt built on cutter lines. (Funny to think Cochran was given Speedy as a punishment for 'insubordination') I only build small ships (I've lived a mile from Victory for 45 years, I never did like the looks! Nor did Peter G and he was the curator!! Too fat!) So I have a living room full of 1:48's and 1:50's. That keeps M S's kit in scale with my other ships. There isn't a 'Sophie' as described in the novels, O'Brian invented it. It's Speedy with a masters cabin under a poop deck. I'm currently building Diligence, POF, which is my 4th cutter. It's larger (1:44) because it was intended to go into the Dockyard Museum. I don't think it will be good enough so no doubt I'll keep it. After a brig I'll probably move back to coastal fishing boats where I started. My idea is to produce an action diorama, blood on the decks, have a try at smoke and flame (lol) There'll be so much detail and scratch made crew etc. I would seriously benefit from a kit to save time. Meantime I'm enjoying your build, please keep it detailed with any problems you run into. Lots to learn!!
  8. In my eyes there is little that can match Speedy's prettyness. I've been working up to a build for 3 years, now the time has come. Chris' kit appears very nice but 1:64 for a cutter sized ship if far too small for me, I don't know why he chose this over a quarter scale. I was going to scratch a POB but Maris Stella's 1:48 will save a lot of time, If it doesn't arrive soon I'll start without them!! Which parts are boxwood Vane?? Cheers, Bob
  9. Harlequin, the post is in response to the apparent 'troubling concerns' a lot of builders are confused by, they obviously want the accuracy. I'd leave my timber's their natural colour. Personally I'll never build a first rater, I prefer smaller more graceful ships.
  10. No Gary, it's the Agamemnon made by a friend of his (you??) That doesn't look like the Victory paintjob either. I'm currently working on a painting of Alert with Pete, I have a good eye for colour! IF they haven't got it right it's a very expensive mess.
  11. I don't know if anyone is still following this but it's been a pet subject in all forums. First, I can't see a trace of pink, it's a dull pale not too pleasant lemon(ish). Peter advises there have been details overlooked, ignored or simply not found since he left and he is of the opinion that they still haven't got it nailed down. Possibly, although the pigments can be identified this doesn't, as already pointed out, allow for impurities. Also I'm not convinced the proportions of the mixture have been accurately determined. If Nelson picked it's present colour he must have had a stinking hangover at the time. Peter has shown me a build which he says is accurate. If so there was more yellow. (colour described by the carpenter as yellow, not yellow ochre, mixed with white)
  12. Has anyone tried ammonia vapour? I read about it on a non modeling site and gave it a try. Pour a 1/2" of conc. ammonia (a bottle of hardware store oven cleaner) into a glass jar and screw the top back on quickly! Cannons can be strung together through the trunnion holes leaving enough length of line so the cannons can be suspended ABOVE the liquid, not in it. Heavier items like cannons can be left a few hours depending on how tarnished you want them (I forgot a batch and left them overnight), thin brass sheet, chainplates etc, will require far less time otherwise they will crumble. The cannons look a mess but when they're cleaned with steel wool and polished they have a fairly natural looking patina similar to the bronze cannons in the Royal Armoury. They don't blacken using this method so my finished cannons are all cast bronze, not iron!
  13. I want a compact saw that will cut bulkheads/ keels (from ply, the thickest I expect to use about 5 mm) Also capable of ripping 5mm hardwoods into 1 mm strips for planking. I've read all the reviews. Size and price is an important issue, Proxxon and Dremel seem to be favoured, but I'm no nearer making a choice. Please help, Bob.

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