mikeaidanh

Mike, Nils, Druxey, and John thanks for the positive feedback, and another thank you for all who added a like.
 
I spent a fair bit of time today looking for the gaff crane to fix to the mast before setting it up, went through all the possible hiding places all the bins and containers that I had stored various parts. Then it dawned on me that it was attached to the gaff with the halliard shackle and blocks.
 
I needed to rearrange the room a little and removed the sewing machine brought in the rolling base from the shop after changing the top for a slightly smaller one.
 

 
It is a good job that our ceilings are all ten feet.
 

 
Fiddling with the shrouds for the bowsprit seemed to take forever.
 

 
Now she is beginning to look like a cutter again.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Further progress on the inner hull.The floors are now finally fixed in place and the ribs are being shaped.
Note the high tec plank bender; new employment for old curling tongs and a "clamp" made from parcel tape.
 

 
The ribs are pre painted before fitting.
 

 

 
Fixing the ribs to the hull. I used CA for this job as devising curved surface clamps to use with PVA seemed likely to cause headaches. Kiss principle.
 

 
The .7mm x 7mm dome head pins at each rib junction are purely decorative but they do enhance the look of the hull interior.
 

 

 
All in place. Just some cleaning up to do.
 

 
More anon.
 
Note. Other buiiders of this model will have noticed that I am not following Panart's colour scheme. More about this later on.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you ronkh, I will post again soon.
 
Mike.

Getting on with the internal decks.
 

 

 

 
This is enjoyable work. Filling the floor voids with planking and the gratings. I found cutting and fitting the gratings to be tricky.
 

 
Using useful sizes of the kit supplied timber to jig up the fitting of the foot treads.
 

 

 
The internal decks finished and lightly oiled with Danish.
 
Moving on.
 

 

 
Planking in the bow and stern areas.
 
This is as far as I have come to date. The next tasks will be to finally fit the internal decks into the hull before starting on the ribs and stringers.
 
More anon.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

......And more progress.
 

 
Both internal decks framed and shown in situ for a trial fit.
 

 
Partly planked deck void. Slapped some yellow ochre on before applying a decent top coat.
 

 
Bought myself a cheap and simple air brush. How quickly the paint goes on! This sounds like I do not have a painters patience. Correct!
 
 
 
 

Further progress.
 

 
Starting on the internal decking.Bending frames for the edges of this section. I am using the deck itself as the former for the frame bending.
 

 

 
The larger of the two internal decks framed up and ready for planking and some gratings.
 

 
Detour. Planked the stern but not to the top as some shaping needs to be applied to this later on.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Progress report.
 

 
First planking completed - pretty rough but I have two more layers to go to improve my technique.
 

 
Second planking complete. A little better but still full of errors some of which have been sanded out. Thank goodness for sanding products!
 

 
The hull structure is now strong enough to let me remove the 2/3 of some of the bulkheads which are no longer needed. I am pleased to get shot of them as this allows me to do some remedial work on the visible interior planking.
 

 

 

 

 
Third and final planking. Fitting a drop plank to put right one of my technical errors.
 

 
Third planking complete and in the sanding phase.Overall I am reasonably happy with this my second attempt to plank a model
ship but, one of these days, I must learn to do it properly. I would love to watch a "master" at work.....are there any videos ?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello QA,
 
Thanks for that.
 
I have no idea why triple planking was used. It is a bit of a pain to do but now that I have the end result is a very sturdy hull. Ah, so that is why it is trippled! There are no frames or bulkheads so the strength and rigidity must be within the hull itself.  Until you asked the question I had not considered the obvious! Thank you for opening my eyes.
 
The upside of this build is working in 1:16 scale. It is a delight. I shall post some updates to the build log in the near future.
 
Mike. 

At last I have made some progress on this model. As I said earlier my intention was to use this build as a break from my HMS Surprise build and to try my hand at a larger scale model. What has in fact happened is the realisation that I do not have enough time to devote to one model let alone two! Never the less progress has been made on both models.
 
The following is a simple photo diary of 1803 Armed Pinnace to date.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is as far as I have gone and the model is back on the shelf as I return to my HMS Surprise (see).
 
 
 
 

Here we are back again after knee surgery. This will be the final post for this build as the model is now in my study in its final position.
 
Making the internal fittings and fixtures:
 

 
The anchor and its rope and stowage.
 

 
Two buckets made by parting a solid barrel and turning out a recess and adding a lid to one. This is not the LA method.
 

 
The gun serving tools. There are also two smaller versions for the small cannons.
 

 
One of six oars.
 

 
General view of some of the internal kit.
 

 
Milling the cannon ball tray. I thought I would try this rather than making a framed tray. The "milling machine" is a Dremel drill and stand above a Proxxon X-Y table. There is so much "slop" in this device that I hesitate to call it a milling machine but, with care, a result can be achieved. I must improve on this aspect of my tooling!
 

 
The completed tray and some buckets with contents.
 

 

 

 
The model on its display base. I have not mounted the vessel vertically but allowed it to come to rest on its port side skid.....it is on the beach.
 
The profile on the base was made using my old and trusted Wadkins Handy Trimmer. I reckon I have had this for about 40 years. They were sold as laminate trimmers and came with a selection of jigs for that purpose. I have made lots of "special" and "one off" bases to enable various routing tasks to be performed. The unit is small and can easily be use one handed yet it is powerful enough to take most things in its stride. I reckon it will outlive me!
 
The following images show the various internal fittings in situ:
 

 

 

 
Thats it folks! Done and dusted. I am reasonably pleased with the result and my decision to make this model as a hard working boat. I could have gone further with the "distressing" work and I will once I have got to grips with weathering techniques and materials.....and that is an art within an art.
 

 
I have greatly enjoyed this build with the possible exception of triple planking. I found the kit to be pretty good. The instructions were not great but the pictures told most of the story. The materials were ok and mostly sufficient with the exception of the sail cloth which was woefully short. To my mind this is a good kit to experiment with.The scale is large enough to encourage an individual approach rather than a slavish adherence to the build notes. I recommend it as a very interesting project.
 
Mikeaidah. 11th July 2014.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Early April '14
 
Must make bit more progress before an enforced break in proceedings so time to fake the furled sail, attach it to the lateen yard and rig both to the mast.
 
First the sail was marked out on the material. The kit was short on material so this sail will look ok as presented but would not set correctly if one were to try.
 

 
The edges that are to cut have been sealed with dilute PVA.....
 

 
....and the cloth is cut.
 

 
The seams are sewn in on a sewing machine and the bolt rope is added.
Because the sail will only ever be displayed furled I am only adding bolt rope to areas that will be seen. This is to make the attaching of the sail an easier task.
 

 

 

 

 
In this last image ageing and dirt have been added to both sail and yard.
 
Now the sail is attached to the yard.....
 

 
....and the yard to the mast.
 

 
Now that all the rigging is in place some rope hanks are needed to finish off the belays. My method of fixing belays, for what it is worth, is to pass the line under tension through the belay pin hole then use the pin to lock it in place. Leaving a short length of line below the pin allows for future tensioning. The belay is then completed by hanging a shaped hank over the pin.
 

 

 
The larboard boom cradles are fitted and the boom stowed. This repeated starboard side. 
 

 
The anchor is made but not stowed......
 

 
...and the boat hook.
 

 
Thats it for now. Just a few final up to date images and then I am off to the MSW Sick Bay (see) for month or two. Whilst laid up I shall ponder the Panart Gun Deck kit that is awaiting my attention and think about the Sloup Coquillier that I hope to scratch build after that.
 

 

 

 
 
Bye for now,
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again at last but with a good deal of progress to log.
 
I have just finished repairing this build log and my HMS Surprise log and I would like it known that i would prefer not to have to do that again! A complete pain in the fundament!
 
The following images will illustrate progress on general hull fittings, mounting the large cannon in it's final position, hanging the rudder and  making the tiller and rigging it.
 
Hull fittings…..
 

 

 

 

 
Tiller….
 

 

 

 

 

 
Big cannon…….
 

 

 
Rudder and tiller…..
 

 

 

 

 
Mast is tapered and top rigging sheaves fitted…...
 

 

 
Rigging the cannon…..
 

 

 
Fitting the mast….
 

 

 

 

 

 
Making the lateen yard…….
 

 
Temporary fitting of yard…..
 

 

 

 
That is all for now. The next task is to make the sail and then finally rig the yard.
 
After that things will be on hold for a while as I am having knee replacement surgery on April 15th.
 
See you next month!
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again after Christmas and other interventions ! Time to progress this build a little.
 
I left off before the holiday when starting to fit the thwarts so finishing that job comes first.
 

 
I then got sidetracked by the arrival of a Carrs kit so needed to try that out.
 

 

 

 

 
Back to the thwarts and fitting all into hull...
 

 
....including the mast support structures.
 
]
 
All done.
 
 
Having recently acquired a micro shaper the next task was to use it to produce knees, thole pin blocks and the two bow fairleads.
 
First the knees.
 
The shaped timber has been sliced into twenty four pieces and....
 

 
...they are glued together in pairs to a piece of dowel....
 

 
..and then glued to the thwarts as seen here.
 

 
This image also shows my ongoing attempt to "age" this build a little as I want it to represent a working boat rather than a pristine model. I am using water colour crayons and spit at present but fully expect to add other techniques as time goes on. In passing, if any reader has experience of "ageing" a model I would love to have your comments.
 
Next the thole pin blocks. The piece of timber on the right was machined to profile then sliced into twelve pieces and finally drilled for the pins.
 

 

 

 
And finally the two fairleads. The piece of machined timber on the left in the image above was sliced into two pieces, drilled, slotted and cut to shape.
 

 

 

 
Various other small parts have been made and fitted…….
 

 

 
....and the large gun and it's carriage is almost complete. 
 

 

 

 
The big gun will not be finally fitted until later in the build. The next task is to complete the outer hull fittings and then start on the paint job. Once that is complete then the fun of rigging and fitting out can begin.
 
More anon.
 
Mike.
 

Didn't find any videos of the tilt-table but the solution involves making a cradle for both the tilt-table, and the saw itself, and tilting the saw up making the tilt-table level in the process. I own the saw, among other Byrnes tools, but don't have the tilt-table yet. I will be getting it down the road though, and at that point will play around with a design that will work as a home-made jig for it. Tilting the whole saw isn't really a convenient way of using it but it's a whole lot safer. The whole reason this saw doesn't have a tilt-arbor is because you'll lose something in the 90 degree accuracy of it by adjusting it back and forth. By as much as 2-4 degrees...

You could a video review showing your problem with the tilt table. You could also take up model ship building as, after all, you have the right saw for it. 
As a further thought if you are repeatedly cutting beveled angles why not make you own jigs?
 
 
Mike.

You could a video review showing your problem with the tilt table. You could also take up model ship building as, after all, you have the right saw for it. 
As a further thought if you are repeatedly cutting beveled angles why not make you own jigs?
 
 
Mike.

Hey, not trying to pick on the competition but isn't the little red mark that says the blade is at 90 degrees off about 2 degrees on that Proxxon saw?   Nice bull too
 
Jim

B.E. I am glad to see you promoting TBS-AAchen. They are the dogs nuts in my humble opinion.
 
Good saw too. I love mine.
 
Mike.

Back again for the final part of this build log.
 
There were an assortment of parts to be made to complete the below deck display and, in no particular order, here they are:
 
Storage racks,
 

 
Tiiddly table hangers,
 

 
Table,
 

 
Water breaker,
 

 
Plates, knives, cheese, tankard and "square meal"
 

 

 

 

 
Fire buckets,
 

 
Hammock,
 

 
The "tidy" gun showing training levers, fire bucket, cartridge and tackles,
 

 

 
Serving tools,
 

 

 
Bench with squeeze box,
 

 

 
Grease bucket and brush,
 

 
Tompions, flexible rammers and spongers and a deck broom,
 

 
The Legend.
 
HMS. Innominate Is carrying out some self maintenance. One of the great guns has been serviced and tidied away with all the serving tools neatly stowed. The gun crew are about to enjoy a meal and, maybe, some music.
 

 
Meanwhile the second gun is still being worked on. One trunnion strap is open and grease is being applied. There seems to be a problem under the barrel as well as it has been hoisted up to the deckhead and secured whilst work goes on.
 

 
The training and hauling tackles have been used to position the gun. The training levers are seen acting as wheel chocks; I have no proof that this was done but logically it might have been.
 
Where are the crew? They are in my minds eye. They fade in and out of this representation of a moment in time and, if you concentrate, you will see and hear them as I do.
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
I have greatly enjoyed this model and by using the plans as a guide I think I have achieved an interesting object that, hopefully, my great friend and O'Brian aficionado  will enjoy whilst he reads of Jack and his adventures.
 
Mikeaidanh 19/02/15
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again.
 
The next task is to build the two great guns. Some of the kit parts are  of plywood and whilst the grain on the faces is ok, being quite fine,
the laminate edges look all wrong. At first I was going to cut new parts but then I realised that may not be a one off situation so i decided to experiment with facing the edges with thin slips. The images below show the outcome and although not perfect they will suffice. I think with more care I could have produced a better outcome and I believe this technique has some merit.
 

 

 

 

 

 
The gun barrels need to be black and I tried both Humbrol Steel  and Gunmetal Metalcoat and settled for the latter. On top of this I rubbed on grate blacking before polishing to a dull sheen. The barrels are not yet finished as I intend replacing them when the build is complete.
 

 
The next image shows all the parts for one cannon.
 

 
And the next image shows the two cannon fully assembled and with their shot garlands.
 

 
Here I am determine the correct distance from the gun port before fitting the cannon with screws through from below into each of the wheels.
 

 
The next image shows one cannon and its tackles in its final position. The second cannon will need to wait until all the other fitting out is completed as access below deck is tight.
 

 
More later.
 
 
 

I am building this model for a friend who reads O'Brian almost continuously. With the model on his reading desk aiding his imagination i hope he will be transported into the world that he finds so fascinating.
 

 

 

 

 
I will not be strictly following all aspects of the kit instructions but using some licence to delete, modify or add as I see fit. Historical and physical accuracy will suffer for this and I imagine there will be not a few wry smiles at some of my decisions but I crave indulgence as this is not meant to be an exact depiction but more an instrument of imagination.
At some point in the past I came across a build of this model, not in MSW, that contained some interesting additional aspects. I cannot remember where I saw it but I have remembered and incorporated some of the ideas from that build. I doff my cap in acknowledgement to the builder.
 
Here we go.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The preceding images show the main framework construction. Keeping this element square was very simple using a build board and the engineering blocks.
The frames have been stained. A decision I later regretted and had to undo.
 
Back soon.
 
Mike. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again.
 
The following photos show the curved rib sections and my spacers used to position them. as the spacers cannot be seen after planking they were glued in place. The ribs were found to be a tad short and have been corrected.
The gunnel cap can also be seen here. 
 

 

 

 

 
Making the Whale. Showing scarffe joint and black card caulking .
 

 

 
Fitting the first plank and adding the whale.
 

 
The whale has been treated with ebonising stain but I find it unconvincing. I will see what it looks like later and think again.
 
A drilling template for the trenails.....
 

 
....makes the job straightforward.....
 

 
....and soon completed.
 

 

 
The whale having another coat of stain but I am still not happy. Maybe polishing will improve it. The large trenails in the whale are a mess and will be replaced.
 
Polish applied to see how it looks. Ok, but the whale is still not right.
 

 

 
Back soon.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

WOW! And again, Wow!
 
Mike.

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking forward to this one and will follow with interest and may put this model on my "to do" list.
 
Good building,
 
Mike.