tkay11

Pin-rails post-script
 
When trying to fit the pin-rail with the consoles attached, I realised that I had overlooked a point: the tumble-home of the bulwark. This means that the angle between the pin-rails and the bulwark-stanchions is not 90°, but is a slightly obtuse angle of about 100°.
In consequence, I had to remake the consoles with this angle. As the process is essentially the same as described in the previous post, I am only showing a picture of the final result.

Pin-rail on consoles affixed temporarily
 
 
Another small tool-making digression
 
Milling the above profile required that the stock is oriented perfectly parallel to the X-axis of the micro-milling machine. While orienting the little vice is quite easy with the help of squares, orienting the stock on the face-plate would normally require tramming it in with a lever-gauge. The problem is that the lever gauges are far too big for the little milling machine. So far, I have eye-balled it with a pointed cutter in the spindle and some light test-cut to verify. This has been somewhat time-consuming and unsatisfactory.
Thinking about the problem, I remembered the so-called ‘wiggler’ (https://www.instructables.com/Wiggler-Center-Finder-for-the-Lathe/) and designed a tool based on the same principle. It is basically a stick that is pivoted at some point along its length, so that it can move freely at an angle. There is longer and a shorter end. The latter is brought into touch with the workpiece and any movement is amplified by the longer end.
I miniaturised this to a total length of 33 mm so that it fits easily between the milling spindle and the cross-slide. It consists of a piece of 6 mm diameter aluminium rod, that is turned down at one end to 2.4 mm to fit into a collet of that size. The diameter was chosen, because it is the shank diameter of the common burrs that I often use as milling cutters. That saves changing the collet after tramming.

Mini-lever-gauge and its ‘mechanism’ (right)
 
The rod is bored out 3 mm along most of its length and a 4 mm recess of 1.5 mm depth is turned in. This recess takes up a disc that has been punched out of a section of some polyethylene tubing. The feeler lever is an ordinary clothes pin, the head of which has been turned concentric (the stamping process of the pin production does not lead to completely concentric heads). At the upper end of the bore, a section of the aluminium rod is milled down to half the diameter, allowing to observe the movement the pin in this window.
The polyethylene disc is secured in the recess with a drop of general-purpose glue and the pin pushed through it concentrically until the pointed end arrives at the milled-out section. The flat has a few lines engraved to be able to better judge the movement of the point. With this the little tool is complete
In use the pin-head is brought into contact with the workpiece and the slide moved a tad in until the point coincides with one of the lines. When running up and down the workpiece edge, one observes the movement of the point and adjusts the angle of the workpiece until the point remains steady.

Tramming the mini-vice with the aid of the lever-gauge
 
The tool is perhaps a bit crude and not as sensitive as a commercial lever gauge, but it serves the purpose.
 
To be continued … 

Mark,
  Thank you very much!  I am very happy with how this model has turned out!
OC,
  Thank you very much!  This one was quite the challenge and learning curve!
 
Thank you very much to everyone who has stopped by or hit the “Like” button!
 
And the Oryol is finished!














This build was a really good challenge and learning experience!
 
I quite enjoyed it!
 
This was my first ever pre-dreadnought battleship!
 
I have 600+ hours in the Oryol over a period of nearly 12 months!
 
Thank you very much to everyone who followed along and provided support!

While I'm (slowly) fairing the hull, I also have worked on making some simple clamps for when I get to planking. I realized that the binder clips and clothespins I already had weren't going to work very well. So, I made some simple ones by drilling holes through scrap wood, adding cross-braces to prevent splitting, and running a small nut-bolt combo through it. They're pretty rough around the edges and way less refined than some of the beautiful homemade clamps I've seen in other build logs, but they should be helpful when it comes time to plank
 

 
After making my first three, I wondered whether it would be a good idea to secure the nut in place so that I wouldn't have to hold both nut and bolt to tighten the clamp. So, as can be seen above, I used super glue, bracing, and some white glue to secure the nut on one clamp. I then tested the three with a scrap plank on the hull, below. I found it much easier to tighten the clamp with the secured nut.

 
So, I modified the others to also secure the nut in place. I also beveled down some of the cross-bracing near the bolt head, shown below, as it was making it difficult to tighten by hand.

 
For the rest of the clamps, I got rid of the multiple cross-braces, in favor of just gluing a piece of basswood across most of the surface of the clamp with the grain running perpendicular to the main piece. At this point, I now have eight clamps, which should be enough, especially as each can clamp on two adjacent frames at once, and they're not hard to make if I need more.

 
It's a very minor update, I know, but I thought it might be useful to see how simple a homemade clamp can be to make.

Thank you very much for your advice, Ab. I took the run of the deck from what I take to be the beams supporting the deck, above which runs a dotted line. I see the outline of the wale as quite separate from the dotted lines running on top of the beams. I outlined the beams as brown squares in the drawing, but I quite see that this could represent the central spine and that I had not taken into account the camber.
 
I agree with your analysis: the point is just to get on with it and not be too picky about a couple of millimetres (equivalent to 14cm at full scale), when the plans are themselves photos or scans of original work, and were possibly drawn up just to give the idea of the ship.
 
I also agree that the safest thing is to work from the half-breadth plan to make the bulwarks for the model as correlation with the sheer plan might be too difficult.
 
Thanks again for the help!
 
Tony
 
 

I'm a bit late to this thread and return us back to clamps for tapering planks. 
 
I wanted to have top-and-butt planks on the sides of my 1/64 model and it is critical to make the tapered edges straight, otherwise gaps will appear on the sides of the vessel. The heights at the ends of the tapered sections also have to be identical. I filed the profile I wanted onto some brass angle section to make left and right hand templates. These are clamped to a flat piece of wood with the width of the gap between them adjusted to hold several planks: four or five worked well for me. I then used a craft knife to cut away the protruding wood, always cutting away from the peak and towards an end so that if the wood did split it was the waste that was affected. 
 
Side view of the jig

Top view of the jig

The photo below is a work in progress view that shows one row of top-and-butt planks fitted. The second row will have the planks the other way up and front-to-back inverted so the tapers match. 

Finally the finished article where it is difficult to see the joins between the planks. My reward for all the work with tapering is a feature that is nearly invisible unless you know what to look for (it's the bare wood between the copper and the yellow ochre). Perhaps I should have had a caulking line to emphasize the joins. 

George
 

It's all so long ago... We had a holiday, then the summer was spent on DIY and grandchildren, then a late holiday, and now finally I have resumed building. The current task is the main mast, including its topmast section, which is very similar in construction to the fore mast. I will post some pictures later. 
 
(If anyone calls in at Chania in Crete it has a maritime museum that is packed full of models. Some are sailing ships and some depict the Greek navy now and in the 20th century. The sailing ships include rigs that I have not seen or heard of before, including the scaphi in this photo.)

 
George

Pat, I used to suffer from 'tool envy' for many years, until I entered professional life and was able to acquire machine tools. And as we know, machines/tools allow one to make more machines/tools. It kind of developed into a secondary/subsidiary hobby then, together with the supporting process and market knowledge. I love in particular the look and feel of pre-1950s tools and machines, before everything became plasticky and boxy.

The shipyard had been closed for much of August, only the drawing office stayed open to prepare work for autumn ...
 
********************
 

Anchor-winch 4
 
The remaining item for the winch is the pawl-bit against which also the bowsprit rests. It is surprisingly thin, only 240 mm square, according to the original drawing, which conveniently translates to 1.5 mm on the model.
 
A strip a tad wider than 2 mm was cut from a scrap of 1.5 mm thick acrylic glass. Care was taken to cut it parallel to a manufacturing edge, which is clean and square. In this way, only one edge needed to be machined and the manufactured edge provided a good datum for this.
 
The pawl rest in a cast-iron U-shaped frame that is bolted to the front of the post (updating the design a bit from the older style wooden pawls drawn in the original drawing). Rather than adding this part to the post, I decided to mill it from the solid. Hence the 2 mm strip.
 
Originally, I intended to drill 0.15 mm holes for the axes of the pawls, but my drills turned out to be too short for that. This would not be really necessary at this scale anyway, but would have later, once a wire was inserted, facilitated the positioning of the pawls. I have to eyeball it now.

Milling the groove into the ‘cast-iron’ frame
 
The post was milled to size, letting material for the frame for the pawls standing. The shape of the frame was then milled out and the ends rounded with a safe-edge file. In the final machining step, the groove was cut.

Shaping the head of the pawl-bit
 
I don’t have square collets (I plan to make one day a set of square insert collets for precisely holding square stock), so a round one had to make do for the next operation, namely shaping the head of the pawl-bit with different burrs. Because of the relatively soft acrylic glass and with light cuts, this is not a problem.
 
Shaping the head of the pawl-bit
 
The pawls will be short lengths of 0.2 mm x 1 mm styrene strips, but will be made only later, when everything comes together so as not to lose those tiny bits.
 
To be continued …
 

I probably wouldn't buy-in someone elses parts, I was thinking of kitting myself out to do 3D-printing - or at least do the designs myself. On the other hand, as for my laser-cutting, parts usually do not turn out right at first shot. As @dafi knows well, there are usually several runs necessary to get the dimensions right for printing - unlike for substractive machining, where one in most cases ends up with the correct part.
 
However, I love this late 19th to mid-20th century manual technology of substractive machining and those old machines. In addition, I am already spending a good deal of my wake hours in front of a computer, so manual workshop work is a pleasant diversion.
 

Thank you very much for the kind words and the many 'likes' 👍🏻
 
****************************************************************
 

Pin-rails 2
 
As can be seen on drawings and old photographs, the pin-rails often rested on consoles attached to the bulwark stanchions for added strength. As about a dozen were needed, they were ‘mass-produced’ from a shaped styrene profile.

Milling the profile for the consoles to support the pin-rails

The shaped profile for the consoles
 
A 1.5 mm x 1 mm rod was stuck to a small ‘wax-chuck’ on the micro-milling machine with doubled-sided mounting tape. The rod was then oriented exactly parallel to the axis of the cross-slide and a hollow milled with a 1.5 mm ball-end burr.

Slicing off consoles with the micro-guillotine
 
The edges were rounded with a fine file. This profiled rod was then transferred to the newly built micro-guillotine and slices of 0.7 mm thickness cut off. These miniature consoles then were stuck to the underside of the pin-rails. Once painted, they will be attached as units to the bulwarks.

Collection of consoles

Consoles cemented to a pin-rail
 
Micro-Guillotine
 
The micro-guillotine was constructed around a part-machined cast-iron blank for a staking tool I found on ebay. Originally, I intended to fabricate all parts from steel, but I could not obtain a suitable blank for the rotating table and neither had the right steel bars in stock. So, for the time being at least, the parts were fabricated from 3 mm ABS sheet that I happened to have. 

 
The cutting blade is a shortened chisel-shaped scalpel-blade. It is set into an exactly fitting slot in the 6 mm steel runner and secured with a steel ring. The knob on the runner is an old bakelite instrument knob. The 6 mm wide blade restricts the cutting capacity to 3 mm for 90° cuts and correspondingly less for cuts at an angle. This is a conscient restriction, as this tool is really meant to only cut parts up to 2 mm by 2 mm cross-section. 

 
To cut at an angle, the plate is turned, rather than the cutter as in other designs. The narrow gap between the guides ensures that also very small parts can be cut. Their length can be set by the adjustable brass stop.

 
To be continued …

Work was been interrupted again, this time by some business travel to Tallinn for a few days, where I had also the opportunity to visit the Estonian Maritime Museum. Unfortunately, I came back from there with a sort of bronchitis that bogged me down for a couple of weeks ...
 
Pin-rails
 
Another delay in actual shop-work was caused that I first had to work out were the pin-rails would go and how many pins they have to have to provide the necessary belaying points.

Drilling the pin-rails using the micro-mill as a coordinate drilling machine
 
The pin-rails are 2.2 mm wide strips cut from 0.8 mm thick acrylic sheet. The holes were drilled using the micro-milling machine as a coordinate drill to get the distances right. The outer edges of the pin-rails were rounded as can be seen on many prototype photographs. The inner edges were notched for the bulwark stanchions on the filing-machine.

Cutting the notches for the stanchions on the filing-machine

Cutting the notches for the stanchions on the filing-machine

Collection of pin-rails

Pin-rails loosely attached at their designated location
 
To be continued …

Yesterday I finished the dockyard model of the Sussex, 2 1/2 months after I started. It was a nice experience. English shipbuilding is a challenge for me, as I know next to nothing of it, but in t his case I just had to imitate McArdles's example. It was fun. Perhaps Emiel will make better pictures if the spirit comes over him.
What will be next?

I'm not sure what you mean by "taboo," but you might get some ideas by looking at naval cutters, which are around the same size. Checking very briefly, at least one of the models in this thread has a small boat stored on deck:
I would guess that merchant ships' boats were less standardized than naval ones, but some of the smaller naval boats perhaps would have been similar enough. If you search for merchant ships' boats, or look at models of small merchant vessels, that might give you some ideas as well.
 
You also might get more responses if you edit the title of your post to better reflect your question:  "Merchant ship's boats" or something like that.

Moving forward with the gratings I knew that the top faces required a curve but what I had missed was that they did not just sit on top of the carlings and beams.  They are actually let into the carlings so that they sit within the beams.  This picture explains it far better.

So I cut the bevels into the carlings - I also discovered that I had set the 4th beam about 2mm too far forward so I had to cut into the beam too.

I sanded the curve on the gratings using a face sander with 320 grit paper.  This worked really well 



Then finally I drilled and fitted the 252 nails and fitted the gratings




Thanks for the advice and help in the making of these parts it was very much appreciated.  I'm going to have a go at making the rudder next.
 
Mark
 

You made them the right way.
Gratings consist of two different strips of wood. Thicker ledges ('toothed' ones) and thinner battens placed in these teeth. 
Important thing to remember is that the ledges should run athwartship (from bulwark to bulwark) and the battens should run parallel to the long axis of the hull, - as seen from the top, and not the opposite way.  Here is a short article on the topic:    Improving Basic Details – Getting the Gratings Right | Ship Modeler
I once took a pic of the underside of the USS Constitution's gratings, where you can clearly see this "gaps" you are referring to...
Thomas

Thanks, all! @tkay11, I knew one of those dimensions had to be molded and one sided, but I wasn't sure which, so thank you very much for clarifying!
 
I decided to go ahead with fairing. If the frame needs to be redone in the end, there's no harm in trying to fair it into shape first. I tend to fair pretty slowly over the course of days if not weeks, both because it's tedious work, and because taking my time makes me less likely to take too much off and more likely to really get things right instead of deciding that it's close enough. I noticed that the hull was quite flexible, so I added a bunch of supports across the top. They're as haphazard and ugly as the supports between frames, but thanks to the power of triangles, the hull is now pretty resistant to flexing and twisting.

I love your build and learn from it.
 
Just to add a slightly unnecessary or rather silly note, your interpretation is of course correct, but just to give the 'nautical' terms in translation this is "The frames are composed of futtocks having 88 moulded thickness and 122 sided". Moulded being the measure across the outer surface of a timber which is shaped to fit the overall hull shape, as determined by the moulds. Sided is the measure across the sides of timber at right angles to the outer or moulded surface.
 
Tony

I love your build and learn from it.
 
Just to add a slightly unnecessary or rather silly note, your interpretation is of course correct, but just to give the 'nautical' terms in translation this is "The frames are composed of futtocks having 88 moulded thickness and 122 sided". Moulded being the measure across the outer surface of a timber which is shaped to fit the overall hull shape, as determined by the moulds. Sided is the measure across the sides of timber at right angles to the outer or moulded surface.
 
Tony

Although I don't know anything about the construction of these boats, I could imagine, that the keelson sweeps up to the cant-frames to provide for them a sort of rabbet, keeping them down.
 
A small pin-vise is also useful for pushing wires into holes.
 
And so-called 'cutting-tweezers', as used by watchmakers are excellent tools for cutting wires flush on parts.
 

Thanks, Paul!
 
I've found the time to make a bit more progress on this build. 
 
First, the keelson. This is just a long strip of wood, slightly tapered at both extremes. I'm making mine slightly longer than given on the plans to better cover the messy joints of cant frames C. Each end was also angled on the underside to better fit against the frames there. 

 

 
After a good bit of fairing, it fits smoothly across the frames, except for at frame 2 near the bow. I'm not sure if I cut the floor too thin here or what, but the keelson can't really be bent to fit onto this frame. I'm going to continue fairing frame 1, which I think is still too thick--the keelson is supposed to sweep up a bit at the ends, but maybe not quite this much--but I may have to add a support piece here.

 
Second, cant frames B. As I've mentioned many, many times, the plans don't show the bottom ends of these. I had to trial-and-error my way into fitting them against the stem. One challenge is that the frames need to be on the aft side of the rabbet, but the frames are thicker than the relatively narrow ledge of the stem behind the rabbet. Checking photo logs of this model, I found that other builders have shaped these frames to fit onto the back of the stem--e.g., ending the frame in a notched joint rather than just a straight cut. I did one side first, constantly checking for fit and adjusting. It was a tricky cut to get right!

 
By the time I had it right, the frame was a lot shorter than shown on the plans, as can be seen below (the parts were cut overlength, but the ends given by the plans are marked in pencil).

 
Eventually I got both cut to shape.

 
And I glued them in place. The joint with the stem didn't turn out quite perfect, but it should be stable enough and will be covered by the foredeck.

 

 
Finally, I decided to pin the frames to the keel with a bit of copper wire and super glue, in order to strengthen the small butt joint there. It was tricky to push the wire all the way down into the holes because it easily bent and it was hard to get a grip to push it down, although it got easier once I started bending the wire at 90 degrees just above the length of the pin so that I could push down on the bend instead.

 

 
Once all the pins were in, I was able to file them flush. I finally got to use the riffler file set I bought a while ago for this.

 
Here's the current state of the build:

 
Next, I need to add the last frames, cant frames A (which are basically hawse timbers or knightheads on either side of the stem). Given the highly acute angle where they meet the stem, these will be another challenge to shape.

I had started on the channels and deadeyes last month, but was distracted by the continuing discussions about mills. I was sure that there must be some way of modifying my drill stand to act as a mill, and sure enough, after a lot of web searching, I found a railway hobbyist who had done exactly that with his Proxxon drill stand. He was kind enough to share the details and provide a sketch.
 
So with the sketch in hand, I adapted my drill stand  as you can see if you look at my positng on the forum about this (see ‘How to modify Proxxon MB 140 drill stand to act as mill’ at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4539-how-to-modify-proxxon-mb-140-drill-stand-to-act-as-mill/?p=130660).
 
This in turn led me to buy an x-y table for the drill stand as well.
 
With all this thinking about better precision, a glance at the deck and looking at all the wonderful work on this forum showed me I could do a lot better with the guns, the shot racks, and the hatches. So why leave learning the skills to do better until later? Answer: do them again, but better if possible.
 
Replacing the shot racks
 
So the first thing to do was to remove all the shot racks. Unfortunately I had used epoxy adhesive to stick them to the walls. Despite much soaking in Isopropanol, they refused to give way, so I had to attack them with chisel blades. They came off, but it was clear I’d have to replace them as small patches of wood were also torn off the walls at the same time.
 
That done, I cut some new strips of wood from some pear pen blanks using my Proxxon FET saw (with which I am at last really comfortable and pleased with the precision it can offer) and loaded them on to a jig that would hold them on the x-y table.
 
That allowed me to mill a nice series of three hollows at a time spaced by 0.5mm, leaving gaps between each three hollows to file out as individual shot racks.
 

 

 
I finished them off with a face plate, and painted them. I again used the x-y table to drill holes for the gun bolts that would go into them, and then with some of the salvaged bolts and rings from the previous racks, installed the bolts. The racks were then set aside until I had finished more of the other deck furnishings.
 
Replacing the hatches – (1) the Gratings
 
I had for some time been thinking about learning how to do gratings for myself – I had read a lot about the standard technique of using a circular saw, but had been somewhat mystified as to how to get a groove exactly at the right spacing from the saw blade.
 
Of course, the answer was obvious the moment I decided to put blade to plywood panel. The way to achieve a perfect spacing was simply to start by cutting the slot in the panel by clamping the panel to the table top and having one edge of the panel firmly against the fence. Then, once the slot was cut, the panel was turned over and a spacer of the correct width was inserted between the panel and the fence.
 

 
I had decided that I’d go for 0.8mm strips for the gratings with a corresponding hole size of 0.8mm in order to achieve a scale size of 2” for the gratings (it’s a 1:64 model). The kit gratings are about 1mm and they just looked a bit too big to my eye.
 
Luckily I have a 0.8mm saw blade with no kerf, and after several attempts using a 0.8mm gauge from an old set of feeler gauges I had, I managed to cut 0.8mm strips that I could use in the slot.
 

 
One little hint that others might find useful is to set the depth of the cut using feeler gauges until you can just feel the edge of the saw over the edge of the gauge as you raise it through the slot.
 

 
I had especially enjoyed Dafi’s account of his trials making gratings (at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1449-making-gratings/?p=29923), and I went through similar set-backs. My main problem was making sure the grooves for the gratings were parallel. Given the grooves were 0.8mm, and that I was pushing the block of wood by hand over the blade, minute variations in the pressure I was using resulted in (1) increasing deviation from parallel as I went further into the block, and (2) a very small variation in the spacing between cuts. I found that a deviation of 0.01mm would translate into blocks that would have slightly different spacing, and that this would result in gratings that would only interlock for about 7 or 8 bars.
 
To overcome the problem of variance from parallel cuts, I used a block of wood that covered both sides of the spacing bar as well as the blade. This was then pushed through by the cross-slide/ angle stop. I never quite managed to make grooves that were perfectly spaced for more than a couple of centimetres, but I found that that did not matter – the only grating that was large was the main grating and I found all I had to do was make up the central section as a cross hatch and then simply add ordinary strips of the right depth to the remaining outer grating grooves.
 

 

 

 

 
Another recent purchase was a Proxxon sander. This I really find valuable. It allowed me to finish off the coamings around the gratings with ease.
 
Curving the gratings
 
I have seen that others bend their gratings using heat. I wasn’t quite sure how I’d do that and then put coamings round them. So I used an old biscuit tin first to shape the underside of the gratings, and then to shape a mirror mould so that I could curve the top of the gratings.
 

 

 

 
 
Replacing the hatches – (2) Main companionway
 
It has been said that the Alert’s deck plan would not work for the Sherbourne because the Sherbourne is smaller and using the hatches from the Alert would make the deck far too cluttered. That’s probably true, but I liked the look of my old companionway, so I just re-did it using pear wood from the pen blanks I had bought off eBay. It’s a bit better now, but not enormously so.
 

 
Replacing the hatches – (3) The Captain’s companionway
 
Much more interesting was the aftmost companionway. Others have preferred a tall structure, but I thought I’d stick with the Alert’s glass-covered one – mostly because I wanted to try my hand at using Perspex and embedding mullions in it. I didn’t like the rather tatty look of the one I first made, especially as I had CA glue marks on the plastic sheet I had used for the window panes.
 
At first I tried using my modified drill stand to mill the grooves for the mullions in the Perspex. However, it soon became clear that with my drill at its very high speed the melting Perspex on the mill bit made the process unworkable. Even worse, I snapped my 0.8mm mill bit when trying to remove it from a solidified ball of Perspex.
 
However, it struck me that I could use the skills I had learnt for the gratings. After a bit of experimentation, using a 0.6mm blade and making the necessary 0.6mm strip for the jig, it was relatively easy to slice grooves to a depth of 1mm in a 2mm Perspex block.
 
With another bit of luck, I remembered that some 0.5mm strips of cherry wood that I had previously ordered were in fact 0.6mm thickness – so they made perfect mullions for the grooves in the Perspex.
 
I first cut longitudinal grooves in the Perspex, then fitted the strips of cherry wood into those grooves (using small amounts of CA glue along the bases). These were sanded down to 1mm from the surface of the Perspex.
 
The block was then rotated and the horizontal cuts were made with the saw using the same jig – though this time the depth of the cut was adjusted to allow for the extra depth made by the inserted longitudinal strips of cherry.
 
With this done, the horizontal strips of cherry could then be inserted into the horizontal grooves, and the whole was then sanded down with the sander.
 

 

 

 

 
The final touch was to mill a couple of slots for the hinges and to insert two 2.5mm lengths of 0.5mm brass wire into the slots.
 

 
Watch out with the vacuum cleaner!
 
I had rigged up a vacuum cleaner nozzle over the sanding machine as I found that was more successful at removing wood dust than the outlet provided for the sander.
 
Unfortunately, the double sided tape I had been using to fix the companionway cover to a block of wood (to make the sanding more accurate and less dangerous) became worn and, as I was nearing the last bit of sanding on this rather precious piece, the vacuum cleaner simply sucked up the piece!
 

 

 
So I spent a dusty 15 minutes taking the bag out of the vacuum cleaner and sifting through the dust until I found my precious tiny piece again.
 
Still to come:
Cannon Channels and deadeyes  
Tony

I think one needs to also differentiate between the time before around 1850 and after and the regions.
 
From the later 1830s or so on gasification of coal (gas for street and then domestic lighting and heating) and the production of coke for blast furnaces rapidly increased, initally in the UK and then on the continent. A byproduct from this process is coal-tar and -pitch, which is black, as opposed to the brownish colour of Stockholm tar.
 
From that period on coal-tar was increasingly used on ships, making the standing rigging black or dark grey when weathering. For the running rigging Stockholm tar may have been used still for a longer time.
 
The availability and price of coal-tar varied across the European regions. I would assume that Stockholm tar persisted longer e.g. in the Baltic area, as it was closer to the sources of Stockholm tar and more distant to the industrialised areas that produced the coal-tar.
 
Thus I would expect a stronger contrast between standing and running rigging from the second half of the 19th century on.
 
 

Just to support Chuck´s and Greg´s observation: When I started to hit the french forums, I was surprised them not doing the "usual" diffentiation in color inbeteen the standing and running rigging. Even more they were surprised that we or better I did.
 
Eversince I orientate myself more on the style I saw on Hermione: different colors due to different level of tarring and also different bleaching by sun and salt.
 
To the question if parts are wormed but not served I would like to show you the pictures of Invincible´s stays, nice to see the different worming, serving and the differences of stay and preventer stay 🙂
 
The mainstay wormed the whole length, served around the masthead up to the mouse, the preventer no worming along the length but wormed and served around the masthead. All pictures taken from the Facebook site of Invincible wreck.
 
Enjoy!
 
XXXDAn

Just to add a bit more to what Chuck is saying.
 

Here is a model from the Science Museum.  It is the model referenced in Petersson's Rigging Fore & Aft craft.
I think the lighter rope throughout would be an interesting departure from most of what we see now.