AntonyUK

Hi.
Its been a few months since I last posted on this build log.  Sorry.
Life and another model got in the way..
Started work on the build again last week.
Made and installed the locking pins for the main cross beams.
Added the simple decorations around the ship.
Cannons have been placed in the withdrawn position.
The sculling oars have been completed but not yet placed on the model. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX8MFCfGPnM Link shows there method of Sculling. Even the oar shape.
 
After some more research I have decided not to add the spikes on the roof. I know that most photos and drawings have them on. but I think that the enemy would have walked around then and also they would have been able to hold onto the spikes to stop them falling overboard.
My thoughts at that they has holes in the roof and the lancers would thrust there lances up through the holes killing the enemy.
Research shows that most solders aboard were either Bowmen or Lancers. So what else is a lancer supposed to do with a roof on ??
The enemy ships were bigger and higher than the Korean ships.
So holes only it is.  Right or wrong. Another thought has crossed my mind that it would be much safer to display.
 
Also I believe that the Koreans would not have used there sails for battle. Sculling oars only so the mast slots in the top of the roof have been added and the mast and sails removed.
Will take a few photos when I get some sunlight... Not much of that in the UK at the moment.
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Thank you all for looking in and the likes.
EJ The dragons head came painted . I like the colours also. I was going to paint it myself but it's just fine as it is.
Mark. The plates will remain copper. Most of the hull fittings were made of copper in Asian ships during this time period. They did not use any steel in there ships at all.
Need a nice day now with no one disturbing me so I can focus on drilling the plates pin holes. Music. Lots of tea. 0.4 mm drill. Dremel.
 
Have a nice one.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Thanks for all the likes.
Sorry for the brief descriptions on the photos.
The main deck is planked with spruce. At this scale the grain looks just right for Pine that would have been used on the real ship.
 
The rudder is not going to be fixed until the model is complete as it protrudes way below the bottom of the ship.
 
I might remake the Anchor winch as the drum does not look right. Needs to be from a core of the tree.
 
The Drum stand was mad then chips cut to give it a bit of texture. The drum skin is shamny leather.
 
The Anchor was a interesting as it has tendons through the shank and the arms.
 
The Bow and Stern ends have working doors. The hole for the gunpoint was milled out on a jig on my proxxon mill.
 
The handrails are made from cherry and need to be put through the sander to finish them.
 
All the ladders have been made. Lots of ladders on this ship. And only 2 decks.
 
The Top deck planking is Tulip wood. Have made this 10 mm wider than nessary as I'm not sure on how it's going to fit.
 
And finally the ship as of yesterday. Turning out to be a large ship model.
Have found some Korean soldiers from that time period and at the same scale.
I will do the cutaway after the roof is in place. This will leave a 300mm hole in its side. And the edges that have been cut will be painted dull red.
The side pillars and the planking are under construction ATM and will take a few more photos as work progresses.
Will also take a photo of the jig for making perfect holes in the planks that cannot be drilled without splitting.
I have 24 holes to make so time making the jig is well spent.
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony

Hi.
Updates as per previous post.
 
Main Deck is now planked and needs a fine sanding.

 
Main deck from above.

 
Rudder and tiller.

 
Winch for anchor.

 
Drum

 
Anchor

 
The Bow front panel.

 
Doors are working and I need to add a beam lock to the both ends of the ship.

 
All the hand rails made up . Need finishing before adding to decks.

 
Various ladders made up. also needs finishing.

 
second Deck from above.

 
Second deck from below.

 
Bow and stern ends added to model.

 
 That's it for today.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Happy today...The deck fitted the hull and is now in place.
 
Picture one is the Hull side securing details. I used elastic bands to mark there position as you can see.

 
The Deck being planked. Not sure if these would have been fixed in place or just laid into the recess.

 
another close up of the side fixings.

 
Bow area fixings.

 
Looking from the Bow towards the stern of the ship.

 
Next job will to be finish the deck planking and add the deck beams fixing pins and wedges.
Also need to make the ladders that lead from the deck into the hold.
 
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony.
 

Hi Dave.
Excellent choice of wood throughout the build.
Model ship's don't need painting if you choose your timbers types like you have done.
Your work is very neat and clean..not a fuzzy edge to be seen anywhere.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 

Thanks guys!
 
I finished planking the outside of the hull. I added decorative molding that I made from swiss pear as the sheer strakes. The boarding ladder, channels and deadeyes will come later. I'll fit the cap rail after the inboard bulwarks are planked.

I framed out the gun port openings in blood wood then planked the hull up to the gun deck ports.  The hull below the wales is swiss pear, the wales are ebony and the planking above the wales is castello box wood.  I spent way more time on the shot locker and well than I planned, but it's finally done.  In the end, I opted for making the access door and shot locker lids of swiss pear, just like the framework of the well itself.

Here is the glued up well and shot locker. I need to add the hinged lids for the shot locker as well as the access door to the well.



This part is the first in which I had to address the issue of scale. I came to an interesting conclusion. The kit is listed at 1:93 scale, or just slightly larger than 1/8" = 1 foot. At that scale, the hold would be 10 scale feet deep and the space between the decks would be about 7 scale feet! Very doubtful any ship existed in the 18th century with that kind of head room. I suspect the scale is much closer to 3/16" or 1:64, giving the space between decks at slightly less than 5 feet. I'm going to build to that scale going forward.



Regarding the lids and access door: I'm planning to use boxwood for the contrast with the pear. Anyone disagree and vote for pear for those parts? The other two photos show this wood combination for the well in my AVS build.

Popeye & Chris (vossy), thanks for coming aboard - all comments and suggestions very gratefully received! Chris, I’ll certainly let you know if I see anything (I spent an idle 10 minutes - well OK, half an hour - looking for 18th century sailors in HO scale; not much joy. I guess you could always bash or scratch build some.... 😜 (see, I'm picking up the lingo already!)
 
Not much time today, but I did manage to inventory some of the wood; and yes, the walnut supplied is 5mm wide, not 6 as per the inventory, so I’ll have to order some more. I may as well get sufficient to plank the whole boat from one supply, rather than mix & match. I’m also not very happy with the sapele supplied, it seems too open a grain and very coarse to the touch, so I’m going to look at alternatives.
 
I did begin my dry fit of the bottom, frames, false keel and 1st deck. Getting the pieces out of the ply wasn’t too difficult (used an Xacto 11 blade to cut through) though it did take some wiggling - there’s not much clearance. A very little sanding will give clean lines. Much different from my old Bounty build where I had to cut/saw the bits out one by one!
 
When putting the pieces together, I found there’s very little to no clearance. Frames 6 and 7 needed a little thinning on the tabs to actually fit - in fact on 7, pushing the piece onto the false keel actually peeled back the very top layer of ply! And yes frames 4 & 5 are wrongly numbered - glaringly obvious when you put them in place.
 
Dry fitting the 1st deck, the curvature is clear (and some slight sanding of the top of frames 2, 3 & 8 to make them line up). On a positive note, no warping was present and the frames, once on the keel, are all at 90°, though when it gets to the glueing stage I won’t be trusting to luck! On deck curvature, I’m planning (at the moment) to sand down the 1st deck structures to match the curve so that Deck 2 (and all those above) will be flat. Some precise measurements required!
 
Having spent all of 10 minutes thinking about it, I’m not convinced about the stair arrangements across the decks at the front of the ship. I think a grander double deck staircase might be in order, but I’ll need to think this through and plan it out - it will mean some cutting and rebuilding of the fronts of decks 2 & 3 as well as rethinking all the railing at the front.
 
Tomorrow, once the Admiral has gone to work - and assuming no ‘honeydo’s’ - I’ll be dry assembling the deck structures to check on tab & hole alignments. 
 
Some pix
 
 
 
Hugh

hee....hee...hee.......I got the admiral scrambl'in 'round right now      she got me this same kit for Christmas.......except mine is dated 2015.  she noticed that your box isn't the same as my box......and set the stones to rolling       another fellow just finished his.....he had a few issues that you might want to be aware of.   I'm keeping his log in mind for the day I start mine:
Look for Vossy's "riverboat" log too.......he's putting people on his and posted a link as to where he got them.   they are not riverboat figures though....you may want to look into getting some that are more correct for the subject.   I'll pull up a chair and look on.......perhaps you'll have some additional ideas {or maybe spark a few of my own   }.

Many years ago my first build was the AL Mississippi which was a fun build.
i have now started to build the Occre version which has several major differences.
I will take some photos of progress so far and post them.
The photo enclosed shows my attempt at the AL version.

Good to see you back on this build Antony. I think you are correct in the method of fighting the lancers would take. It does make the most sense and I agree that the spikes would definitely benefit the enemy more than hamper them. Unless they were there just for intimidation purposes? Most likely it is more along the lines of what you said, the lancers used holes to thrust their spears through and the image of that when painted made it appear that the roof had spikes.

Hi.
Its been a few months since I last posted on this build log.  Sorry.
Life and another model got in the way..
Started work on the build again last week.
Made and installed the locking pins for the main cross beams.
Added the simple decorations around the ship.
Cannons have been placed in the withdrawn position.
The sculling oars have been completed but not yet placed on the model. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX8MFCfGPnM Link shows there method of Sculling. Even the oar shape.
 
After some more research I have decided not to add the spikes on the roof. I know that most photos and drawings have them on. but I think that the enemy would have walked around then and also they would have been able to hold onto the spikes to stop them falling overboard.
My thoughts at that they has holes in the roof and the lancers would thrust there lances up through the holes killing the enemy.
Research shows that most solders aboard were either Bowmen or Lancers. So what else is a lancer supposed to do with a roof on ??
The enemy ships were bigger and higher than the Korean ships.
So holes only it is.  Right or wrong. Another thought has crossed my mind that it would be much safer to display.
 
Also I believe that the Koreans would not have used there sails for battle. Sculling oars only so the mast slots in the top of the roof have been added and the mast and sails removed.
Will take a few photos when I get some sunlight... Not much of that in the UK at the moment.
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Its been a few months since I last posted on this build log.  Sorry.
Life and another model got in the way..
Started work on the build again last week.
Made and installed the locking pins for the main cross beams.
Added the simple decorations around the ship.
Cannons have been placed in the withdrawn position.
The sculling oars have been completed but not yet placed on the model. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX8MFCfGPnM Link shows there method of Sculling. Even the oar shape.
 
After some more research I have decided not to add the spikes on the roof. I know that most photos and drawings have them on. but I think that the enemy would have walked around then and also they would have been able to hold onto the spikes to stop them falling overboard.
My thoughts at that they has holes in the roof and the lancers would thrust there lances up through the holes killing the enemy.
Research shows that most solders aboard were either Bowmen or Lancers. So what else is a lancer supposed to do with a roof on ??
The enemy ships were bigger and higher than the Korean ships.
So holes only it is.  Right or wrong. Another thought has crossed my mind that it would be much safer to display.
 
Also I believe that the Koreans would not have used there sails for battle. Sculling oars only so the mast slots in the top of the roof have been added and the mast and sails removed.
Will take a few photos when I get some sunlight... Not much of that in the UK at the moment.
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
The model is now complete. 
Now for my kit review.
At first glance to kit looked to be real good. but as I started to build the quality of the plywood became clear that the plywood quality is not that good and I found a few areas that were missing the centre layers of ply. 
The instructions were very poor. Almost generic and not to this model at all. Beginners would struggle without good instructions.
Plans were good and a lot of information is there and needs to be self interpreted. 
The Keel and frames were a good fit and was very easy to do.
The Planking on the other hand was not so easy if you do not want to paint the kit.(My choice) Easy just to plank and fill and then paint.
Sail cloth ....Did not use. I used Egyptian cotton 400mesh.
The fittings were OK but not to the plan.  Rope was like string . This was binned and replaced with my own.
Worth the cash... Only just YES.
 
The photos below are the finished kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Well that's it for this one... Gonna finish the Korean Turtle ship next. then ??
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
A update as promised.
 
The dragons head is now in place.. No its not by my hand.. its a resin cast one.

 
Tiles covering the roof are now finished.

 

 
This is a test piece to check on the tile fixings. i will be using the black bottom pins as I think they look better. some 2400 in total...Wish me luck and retained sanity. With cocktail sticks in the centres.

 
Close up of the tiling.

 
And another.

 
Yet another...

 
Cannons in there carriages or boxes. Need to be finished and put into place on model when finished.

 
Close up of the carriages..Now you can see that they need finishing. 

 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Many thanks Antony.

HI.
Again sorry for the lack of updates.
The captains cabin.. He is the only person to have his own sleeping and private area.

 
The crews head's Just a hole in the deck to the sea or river.. 2 handles to hold on too. Very basic.

 
Captains quarters and another head behind. Not sure I should be using the term "Head" as they has there toilets in the stern area.

 
View of the roof after planking and sanding. Will add the copper hexagonal plates after sealing the wood( Makes it better for the adhesive to stick).

 
Roof hatches and gun port hatches added. The gunports are add because if the reading that I have done and the fact that the upper deck would have no purpose. ( I have never known the Korean people do anything with out purpose).

 
View with the gunports opened.

 
The guns.. The carriage is very basic and just a box. The handles are much to long and will be trimmed before fitting.
Not sure on how the elevated there guns.. 

 
Just boxes of all the bits I have constructed.

 
View showing the cutaway area. Never done a cutaway before... But Im'e pleased with it. Might break the no paint rule and do the cutaway edges Red.

 
 and another of the cutaway.

 
Will add the hatches after I have given them the cutaway.

 
And the last one.. of the hatches. Have put them opening in the downward direction.. 
Some drawings show opening lateral. it it was me I would have then opening from the top. More defence for the crew.

 
Thats it for now.
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Lots of work done and only a few photos.. Opps.
 
Ladders in place.

 
working Side doors with bar. Trial fit... Looks good.

 
Bow and Stern doors with working bolt.

 
Mast securing timbers. Temporary mast inserted while work in progress.

 
Funny block on the rudder. Allows the rudder to turn with ease.

 
Walls dry fitted.

 
View from the Stern of the ship.

 
Side walls from the outside.

 
 

 
Views from the Bow's

 
 
Time to clean up and start the fixing and cleaning up.
Next job after glueing the side walls in place will be fitting the second deck in place.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Updates as per previous post.
 
Main Deck is now planked and needs a fine sanding.

 
Main deck from above.

 
Rudder and tiller.

 
Winch for anchor.

 
Drum

 
Anchor

 
The Bow front panel.

 
Doors are working and I need to add a beam lock to the both ends of the ship.

 
All the hand rails made up . Need finishing before adding to decks.

 
Various ladders made up. also needs finishing.

 
second Deck from above.

 
Second deck from below.

 
Bow and stern ends added to model.

 
 That's it for today.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Happy today...The deck fitted the hull and is now in place.
 
Picture one is the Hull side securing details. I used elastic bands to mark there position as you can see.

 
The Deck being planked. Not sure if these would have been fixed in place or just laid into the recess.

 
another close up of the side fixings.

 
Bow area fixings.

 
Looking from the Bow towards the stern of the ship.

 
Next job will to be finish the deck planking and add the deck beams fixing pins and wedges.
Also need to make the ladders that lead from the deck into the hold.
 
 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony.
 

Hi.
A little update..
 
First photo is showing the Deck assembly with the bulwark/Strake being added to the deck beams.
Using a board with the correct camber the deck is held in place and the bulwarks are driven tight with wedges.

 
This is a method of getting the correct angles for the support braces.
Just 2 pieces of timber held flat against the planks and clamped. Gets the angles right and measures the length at the same time.

 
Photo showing the deck assembly with the oar holes supports in place.

 
Close up of the oar holes. Timber not yet finished.

 
The Stern spacers are now fixed in place. Have Got to add the rear platform yet.. Will do this when main deck is in place.

 
Photo of the hull support braces in place. I've rough cut these with a knife as they looked to clean having been cut on a saw.

 
And another one close up.

 
Will add the deck to the hull next week and make the deck support post's.
She is turning out to be one big ship. 
 
Thanks for looking.
Regards Antony.
 

Hi.
A little update.
Started planking the Hull.
First strip on each side. The strips are only glued to the Bow and Stern bulkheads and to the Base.

 

 
Second plank on each side. Again only glued to the Bow and Stern Bulkheads and to the first plank.

 
Close up of the plank overlap. 

 
While waiting on the planks to dry I started on the decks beams.
All cut to shape but not in length yet. Not Glued at this point as I will cut them to length first.

 
This is the Bulk timber that runs down at each side. Laminating the two planks will hold its shape. Note Also curved up at each end.

 
Third planks in place.

 
 

 
Hoping the hull will remain in shape after removing the building jig when all the planking is done.... might make some temporary external bulkheads to help before removing.
 
That's it for now..
Regards Antony.
 
 

Hi.
Just a little on were I have researched  the information and construction methods.
 
Some very intresting reading here.
http://anthropology.tamu.edu/papers/Sasaki-MA2008.pdf
 
page 38 and 40 show the basic method of hull construction.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ULh8BgAAQBAJ&pg=PA37&lpg=PA37&dq=korean+ancient+ship+building&source=bl&ots=6k05sVn3Ms&sig=fQa031fB0XcZHWltlczovosclAM&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiq-7WxsLTLAhXBWxQKHbLbBHwQ6AEIPjAK#v=onepage&q=korean%20ancient%20ship%20building&f=false
 
A drawing from this web page  https://namu.wiki/w/거북선Showing a cross section of the hull.

 
http://www.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_03_01.jsp This web page is in Korean.. but you can see there are a lot of differences between replica ships and models.
 
 
The timbers below are the bow timbers that were pined to the front of the ship for ramming protection. Rough carved for appearance.

 
Bow knees in place. This is just guess work But it is known that the Koreans used knees in there ship building.

 
Stern Knees.

 
A mast step. The mast on the Turtle Ship could be lowered down. and there must been some type of box to hold the mast base in place. again this is guess work. Step only placed and not yet fixed.

 

This drawing shows the mast in the lowers position. But other information shows the mast pivoting from the hull base.
 
Well that is about it for this post..
 
Regards Antony.