6ohiocav

TOPSAIL YARD, LIFT AND HALLIARD
 
I worked on the topsail yard for the main mast.  I pinned it to the mast, and attached the lifts and halliards. I still have to attach the parrel.
 
Topsail Yard lift:  I used .012 rope, seized to the end of the yard with a 1/8 block stropped to the end (which I believe would be used for the clew line if rigged with sails), then routed through 1/8 block in the shrouds, and then will be belayed to the deck.
 
Topsail Yard Halliard: I used a long single strand of .018 rope. I started by running it through the Starboard 1/8 block in the shrouds, then down to the 5/32 block seized to the center of the yard, and then up to the 1/8 block in the port shrouds.  Both ends of this rope will be belayed to tackles attached to the channels.
 
I am now getting close to stepping the mast. The spaghetti mass of ropes is starting to get a bit out of hand. I still have to seize some blocks for the spanker mast, and generally work on preparing the mast for the booms. As I found on the foremast, once stepped, the process of attaching all of the lines will move at a spirited pace.

TOPSAIL YARD, LIFT AND HALLIARD
 
I worked on the topsail yard for the main mast.  I pinned it to the mast, and attached the lifts and halliards. I still have to attach the parrel.
 
Topsail Yard lift:  I used .012 rope, seized to the end of the yard with a 1/8 block stropped to the end (which I believe would be used for the clew line if rigged with sails), then routed through 1/8 block in the shrouds, and then will be belayed to the deck.
 
Topsail Yard Halliard: I used a long single strand of .018 rope. I started by running it through the Starboard 1/8 block in the shrouds, then down to the 5/32 block seized to the center of the yard, and then up to the 1/8 block in the port shrouds.  Both ends of this rope will be belayed to tackles attached to the channels.
 
I am now getting close to stepping the mast. The spaghetti mass of ropes is starting to get a bit out of hand. I still have to seize some blocks for the spanker mast, and generally work on preparing the mast for the booms. As I found on the foremast, once stepped, the process of attaching all of the lines will move at a spirited pace.

TOPSAIL YARD, LIFT AND HALLIARD
 
I worked on the topsail yard for the main mast.  I pinned it to the mast, and attached the lifts and halliards. I still have to attach the parrel.
 
Topsail Yard lift:  I used .012 rope, seized to the end of the yard with a 1/8 block stropped to the end (which I believe would be used for the clew line if rigged with sails), then routed through 1/8 block in the shrouds, and then will be belayed to the deck.
 
Topsail Yard Halliard: I used a long single strand of .018 rope. I started by running it through the Starboard 1/8 block in the shrouds, then down to the 5/32 block seized to the center of the yard, and then up to the 1/8 block in the port shrouds.  Both ends of this rope will be belayed to tackles attached to the channels.
 
I am now getting close to stepping the mast. The spaghetti mass of ropes is starting to get a bit out of hand. I still have to seize some blocks for the spanker mast, and generally work on preparing the mast for the booms. As I found on the foremast, once stepped, the process of attaching all of the lines will move at a spirited pace.

ROYAL AND T’GALLANT HALLIARDS, LIFTS, CLEW LINES AND SHEETS
 
I worked on rigging the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
Royal Halliard/Tye:  I used .012 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed the end to the lower shroud sheave per the plans.
 
Royal Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and tied them off at the top of the mast. (I still have to tie a knot and cut the excess).
 
Royal Clew lines. Since I have no sails, I elected to simply tie the end off on the yard and routed them through a 1/8 block seized to the yard and down to the lower shrouds where I belayed the end to the stave as per the plans.  I put some slack in the line and tied a simple square knot in the rope to keep it from pulling through the block.
 
T’gallant Halliard/Tye: I used .018 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed it to a tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and routed them through a 1/8 block mounted in the shrouds and belayed to the tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Clew Lines: I used .012 rope. Like the royal, I tied the end off on the yard, and ran it through a DOUBLE 1/8 block seized to the yard. This will belay to the pin rail on the deck, so I made the rope extra long and it will remain free until I step the mast. I created some slack and tied a square knot against the block
 
T’gallant Sheets: I used .012 rope and tied the end to the yard.  I pulled this line tighter than the clew line.  I routed it through the same DOUBLE block using a square knot to keep it from pulling through.  It too belays to the pin rail on the deck.
 
I am not sure the clew lines and sheets are right or not. Just my landlubbers interpretation of the rigging plans.
​

TOPSAIL YARD, LIFT AND HALLIARD
 
I worked on the topsail yard for the main mast.  I pinned it to the mast, and attached the lifts and halliards. I still have to attach the parrel.
 
Topsail Yard lift:  I used .012 rope, seized to the end of the yard with a 1/8 block stropped to the end (which I believe would be used for the clew line if rigged with sails), then routed through 1/8 block in the shrouds, and then will be belayed to the deck.
 
Topsail Yard Halliard: I used a long single strand of .018 rope. I started by running it through the Starboard 1/8 block in the shrouds, then down to the 5/32 block seized to the center of the yard, and then up to the 1/8 block in the port shrouds.  Both ends of this rope will be belayed to tackles attached to the channels.
 
I am now getting close to stepping the mast. The spaghetti mass of ropes is starting to get a bit out of hand. I still have to seize some blocks for the spanker mast, and generally work on preparing the mast for the booms. As I found on the foremast, once stepped, the process of attaching all of the lines will move at a spirited pace.

TOPSAIL YARD, LIFT AND HALLIARD
 
I worked on the topsail yard for the main mast.  I pinned it to the mast, and attached the lifts and halliards. I still have to attach the parrel.
 
Topsail Yard lift:  I used .012 rope, seized to the end of the yard with a 1/8 block stropped to the end (which I believe would be used for the clew line if rigged with sails), then routed through 1/8 block in the shrouds, and then will be belayed to the deck.
 
Topsail Yard Halliard: I used a long single strand of .018 rope. I started by running it through the Starboard 1/8 block in the shrouds, then down to the 5/32 block seized to the center of the yard, and then up to the 1/8 block in the port shrouds.  Both ends of this rope will be belayed to tackles attached to the channels.
 
I am now getting close to stepping the mast. The spaghetti mass of ropes is starting to get a bit out of hand. I still have to seize some blocks for the spanker mast, and generally work on preparing the mast for the booms. As I found on the foremast, once stepped, the process of attaching all of the lines will move at a spirited pace.

ROYAL AND T’GALLANT HALLIARDS, LIFTS, CLEW LINES AND SHEETS
 
I worked on rigging the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
Royal Halliard/Tye:  I used .012 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed the end to the lower shroud sheave per the plans.
 
Royal Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and tied them off at the top of the mast. (I still have to tie a knot and cut the excess).
 
Royal Clew lines. Since I have no sails, I elected to simply tie the end off on the yard and routed them through a 1/8 block seized to the yard and down to the lower shrouds where I belayed the end to the stave as per the plans.  I put some slack in the line and tied a simple square knot in the rope to keep it from pulling through the block.
 
T’gallant Halliard/Tye: I used .018 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed it to a tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and routed them through a 1/8 block mounted in the shrouds and belayed to the tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Clew Lines: I used .012 rope. Like the royal, I tied the end off on the yard, and ran it through a DOUBLE 1/8 block seized to the yard. This will belay to the pin rail on the deck, so I made the rope extra long and it will remain free until I step the mast. I created some slack and tied a square knot against the block
 
T’gallant Sheets: I used .012 rope and tied the end to the yard.  I pulled this line tighter than the clew line.  I routed it through the same DOUBLE block using a square knot to keep it from pulling through.  It too belays to the pin rail on the deck.
 
I am not sure the clew lines and sheets are right or not. Just my landlubbers interpretation of the rigging plans.
​

MAIN MAST UPPER RATLINES, ROYAL AND T’GALLANT YARDS
 
I received my shipment from Syren, on time and as ordered, (thanks Chuck again!). Therefore, I was able to finish the upper ratlines. Since I had worked on the yards while in waiting, I was able to raise the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
I pinned them in place with .24 wire and a spot of CA. It holds them in place secure enough to work on the lifts and parrels. Once those are set, it is sturdy enough to thread the clew line and sheet running lines through the blocks.  I tied the ends off on the end of the yards.
 
Here are some photos of my progress.  I placed the main mast in its deck hole temporarily for illustration purposes only.

ROYAL AND T’GALLANT HALLIARDS, LIFTS, CLEW LINES AND SHEETS
 
I worked on rigging the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
Royal Halliard/Tye:  I used .012 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed the end to the lower shroud sheave per the plans.
 
Royal Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and tied them off at the top of the mast. (I still have to tie a knot and cut the excess).
 
Royal Clew lines. Since I have no sails, I elected to simply tie the end off on the yard and routed them through a 1/8 block seized to the yard and down to the lower shrouds where I belayed the end to the stave as per the plans.  I put some slack in the line and tied a simple square knot in the rope to keep it from pulling through the block.
 
T’gallant Halliard/Tye: I used .018 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed it to a tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and routed them through a 1/8 block mounted in the shrouds and belayed to the tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Clew Lines: I used .012 rope. Like the royal, I tied the end off on the yard, and ran it through a DOUBLE 1/8 block seized to the yard. This will belay to the pin rail on the deck, so I made the rope extra long and it will remain free until I step the mast. I created some slack and tied a square knot against the block
 
T’gallant Sheets: I used .012 rope and tied the end to the yard.  I pulled this line tighter than the clew line.  I routed it through the same DOUBLE block using a square knot to keep it from pulling through.  It too belays to the pin rail on the deck.
 
I am not sure the clew lines and sheets are right or not. Just my landlubbers interpretation of the rigging plans.
​

ROYAL AND T’GALLANT HALLIARDS, LIFTS, CLEW LINES AND SHEETS
 
I worked on rigging the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
Royal Halliard/Tye:  I used .012 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed the end to the lower shroud sheave per the plans.
 
Royal Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and tied them off at the top of the mast. (I still have to tie a knot and cut the excess).
 
Royal Clew lines. Since I have no sails, I elected to simply tie the end off on the yard and routed them through a 1/8 block seized to the yard and down to the lower shrouds where I belayed the end to the stave as per the plans.  I put some slack in the line and tied a simple square knot in the rope to keep it from pulling through the block.
 
T’gallant Halliard/Tye: I used .018 rope, tied one end to the yard, and routed the other end through a dumb sheave in the mast, and belayed it to a tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Lifts: I used .012 rope, tied them off to the ends of the yard, and routed them through a 1/8 block mounted in the shrouds and belayed to the tackle rigged to the lower tree.
 
T’gallant Clew Lines: I used .012 rope. Like the royal, I tied the end off on the yard, and ran it through a DOUBLE 1/8 block seized to the yard. This will belay to the pin rail on the deck, so I made the rope extra long and it will remain free until I step the mast. I created some slack and tied a square knot against the block
 
T’gallant Sheets: I used .012 rope and tied the end to the yard.  I pulled this line tighter than the clew line.  I routed it through the same DOUBLE block using a square knot to keep it from pulling through.  It too belays to the pin rail on the deck.
 
I am not sure the clew lines and sheets are right or not. Just my landlubbers interpretation of the rigging plans.
​

Dave,
 
Would you mind sharing with me the source of your plans for your this exciting build? Are they available for purchase to others with scratch built Constitution fever?

Brian
 
Since I am currently rigging my Model Shipways Niagara, I felt compelled to put in my two cents worth. First off, your Niagara is wonderful and I hope that you get back to it. I can tell you that it does not take much in the way of rigging to bring out the magnificent beauty of the ship.
 
I have followed your build log very closely to guide me through the hull and deck construction. Your work is exquisite.
 
I have complained about the rigging instructions in my own log for the very reason you identified at the beginning of this post. Sheet 5 and 6 are indeed hard to follow since all of the sails are overlayed onto the rigging plans. But it caused me to do my homework. I had to learn how a ship works, and how and why a ship is rigged the way it is. Most of that was done on this forum. As a model ship builder thinking about doing future projects, it is an exercise worth the effort.
 
I decided that I had to make a plan.  I decided to do ALL of the standing rigging FIRST.   That is all of the shrouds and stays. I decided to start with my bowsprit and foremast , working from the bottom up on the foremast, and inside out on the bowsprit. Parcelling out the standing rigging from the integrated plans is a little easier than it first seems. If you start there, take your time, and like me, refer to the wonderfully descriptive build logs on this forum, I believe you will succeed, and the farther you go, the more skill and confidence you will gain. AND more importantly, your ship will begin to really look great. 
 
The running rigging was a bit more complicated. However, start with a plan. I broke the running rigging into two categories. The lines that attached to masts and yards (lifts, halliards, braces, slings) which I decided to do ALL of, and the lines that attach to sails (sheets, buntlines, clews, reefs). The plans are pretty good when it comes to the running rigging that attaches to the masts and yards.  It is there, albeit, buried underneath some of the sail diagrams. As far as the rigging that attaches to sails (when you decide to rig without sails), there is nothing, other than a reference in the instruction manual advising us to tie the ends off on the yards somewhere???
 
I have seen Niagara builds that totally omit the running rigging that attaches to sails. They look great. I decided to do some of this rigging, focusing on the clews and sheets.  i just tied them off on the yards.  I don't know it if is right, but it looks ok to me. And it adds another layer of running rigging that looks great on the ship.
 
 I am a true journeyman in this hobby, who makes all kinds of mistakes all of the time.  However, if you decide to embark on the rigging on your Niagara, and I truly hope you do, I would be more than happy to help you as best I can. I have tried to take good photos of my rigging experience, and label each of my posts to help future Niagara builders to find a particular part or exercise. 
 
And finally, let me say this.  Once you tackle the Niagara rigging plans, and get some experience, you will find ALL future plans, for whatever ship you work on next, to be a lot easier to follow.

Brian
 
Since I am currently rigging my Model Shipways Niagara, I felt compelled to put in my two cents worth. First off, your Niagara is wonderful and I hope that you get back to it. I can tell you that it does not take much in the way of rigging to bring out the magnificent beauty of the ship.
 
I have followed your build log very closely to guide me through the hull and deck construction. Your work is exquisite.
 
I have complained about the rigging instructions in my own log for the very reason you identified at the beginning of this post. Sheet 5 and 6 are indeed hard to follow since all of the sails are overlayed onto the rigging plans. But it caused me to do my homework. I had to learn how a ship works, and how and why a ship is rigged the way it is. Most of that was done on this forum. As a model ship builder thinking about doing future projects, it is an exercise worth the effort.
 
I decided that I had to make a plan.  I decided to do ALL of the standing rigging FIRST.   That is all of the shrouds and stays. I decided to start with my bowsprit and foremast , working from the bottom up on the foremast, and inside out on the bowsprit. Parcelling out the standing rigging from the integrated plans is a little easier than it first seems. If you start there, take your time, and like me, refer to the wonderfully descriptive build logs on this forum, I believe you will succeed, and the farther you go, the more skill and confidence you will gain. AND more importantly, your ship will begin to really look great. 
 
The running rigging was a bit more complicated. However, start with a plan. I broke the running rigging into two categories. The lines that attached to masts and yards (lifts, halliards, braces, slings) which I decided to do ALL of, and the lines that attach to sails (sheets, buntlines, clews, reefs). The plans are pretty good when it comes to the running rigging that attaches to the masts and yards.  It is there, albeit, buried underneath some of the sail diagrams. As far as the rigging that attaches to sails (when you decide to rig without sails), there is nothing, other than a reference in the instruction manual advising us to tie the ends off on the yards somewhere???
 
I have seen Niagara builds that totally omit the running rigging that attaches to sails. They look great. I decided to do some of this rigging, focusing on the clews and sheets.  i just tied them off on the yards.  I don't know it if is right, but it looks ok to me. And it adds another layer of running rigging that looks great on the ship.
 
 I am a true journeyman in this hobby, who makes all kinds of mistakes all of the time.  However, if you decide to embark on the rigging on your Niagara, and I truly hope you do, I would be more than happy to help you as best I can. I have tried to take good photos of my rigging experience, and label each of my posts to help future Niagara builders to find a particular part or exercise. 
 
And finally, let me say this.  Once you tackle the Niagara rigging plans, and get some experience, you will find ALL future plans, for whatever ship you work on next, to be a lot easier to follow.

Thanks Sailor123...,
 
That makes sense and I will shove on as the plan provides.

Brian,
 
That is the angle I see on the model. I went fishing for photos of the real ship after I posted the question. Thanks for finding this first. My eye feels better.

Gents,
 
Now that I am so close to stepping the main mast, I have noted that the Main mast is pitched at a pretty distinct angle, much more severe than the fore mast. Since this is sitting in the slot cut into the keel, it has to be as planned. It just does not "sit well" with my eye.
 
Is this accurate? It would seem to be more pleasing to my eye if I matched the pitch with the foremast.  It too is angled back somewhat, but not as severe as the main. Are the angled masts peculiar to shallow drafted brigs, as they are much more vertical in three masted frigates and rated ships.
 
Thanks for looking in.

MAIN MAST UPPER RATLINES, ROYAL AND T’GALLANT YARDS
 
I received my shipment from Syren, on time and as ordered, (thanks Chuck again!). Therefore, I was able to finish the upper ratlines. Since I had worked on the yards while in waiting, I was able to raise the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
I pinned them in place with .24 wire and a spot of CA. It holds them in place secure enough to work on the lifts and parrels. Once those are set, it is sturdy enough to thread the clew line and sheet running lines through the blocks.  I tied the ends off on the end of the yards.
 
Here are some photos of my progress.  I placed the main mast in its deck hole temporarily for illustration purposes only.

Thanks Sailor123...,
 
That makes sense and I will shove on as the plan provides.

Brian,
 
That is the angle I see on the model. I went fishing for photos of the real ship after I posted the question. Thanks for finding this first. My eye feels better.

MAIN MAST UPPER RATLINES, ROYAL AND T’GALLANT YARDS
 
I received my shipment from Syren, on time and as ordered, (thanks Chuck again!). Therefore, I was able to finish the upper ratlines. Since I had worked on the yards while in waiting, I was able to raise the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
I pinned them in place with .24 wire and a spot of CA. It holds them in place secure enough to work on the lifts and parrels. Once those are set, it is sturdy enough to thread the clew line and sheet running lines through the blocks.  I tied the ends off on the end of the yards.
 
Here are some photos of my progress.  I placed the main mast in its deck hole temporarily for illustration purposes only.

Thanks Sailor123...,
 
That makes sense and I will shove on as the plan provides.

Brian,
 
That is the angle I see on the model. I went fishing for photos of the real ship after I posted the question. Thanks for finding this first. My eye feels better.

Gents,
 
Now that I am so close to stepping the main mast, I have noted that the Main mast is pitched at a pretty distinct angle, much more severe than the fore mast. Since this is sitting in the slot cut into the keel, it has to be as planned. It just does not "sit well" with my eye.
 
Is this accurate? It would seem to be more pleasing to my eye if I matched the pitch with the foremast.  It too is angled back somewhat, but not as severe as the main. Are the angled masts peculiar to shallow drafted brigs, as they are much more vertical in three masted frigates and rated ships.
 
Thanks for looking in.

MAIN MAST UPPER RATLINES, ROYAL AND T’GALLANT YARDS
 
I received my shipment from Syren, on time and as ordered, (thanks Chuck again!). Therefore, I was able to finish the upper ratlines. Since I had worked on the yards while in waiting, I was able to raise the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
I pinned them in place with .24 wire and a spot of CA. It holds them in place secure enough to work on the lifts and parrels. Once those are set, it is sturdy enough to thread the clew line and sheet running lines through the blocks.  I tied the ends off on the end of the yards.
 
Here are some photos of my progress.  I placed the main mast in its deck hole temporarily for illustration purposes only.

MAIN MAST UPPER RATLINES, ROYAL AND T’GALLANT YARDS
 
I received my shipment from Syren, on time and as ordered, (thanks Chuck again!). Therefore, I was able to finish the upper ratlines. Since I had worked on the yards while in waiting, I was able to raise the royal and t’gallant yards.
 
I pinned them in place with .24 wire and a spot of CA. It holds them in place secure enough to work on the lifts and parrels. Once those are set, it is sturdy enough to thread the clew line and sheet running lines through the blocks.  I tied the ends off on the end of the yards.
 
Here are some photos of my progress.  I placed the main mast in its deck hole temporarily for illustration purposes only.