6ohiocav

I believe the Constitution build referred to is this one, starting at post 469. Exquisite work indeed.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11935-uss-constitution-by-xken-model-shipways-scale-1768/page-24

I believe the Constitution build referred to is this one, starting at post 469. Exquisite work indeed.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11935-uss-constitution-by-xken-model-shipways-scale-1768/page-24

Hi Mike,
 
I definitely would choose the same order of things, with the modifications I noted in the log. I have turned my attention to the main mast, and will be repeating the procedure steps, with refinement.
 
I hear you on the photo.  However, I am finding all kinds of hidden faults when I view my photos.  I already know that I am going to have to do some touch painting, but have resigned myself to patiently wait until the very end.
 
Scott,
 
I have to honestly say that I was intimidated by this part of the build, and have now come full circle. I very much enjoy rigging this great ship. My knowledge of how a 19th Century sailing ship worked has greatly increased. I have also improved my knot tying skills (which is not hard since I had none when I started). The real challenge has been navigating through the plans and instruction book. I hope that my experience and the many mistakes I made will help fellow Niagara builders overcome any misgivings with this part of the build. Once you get started, the beauty of each line that you install will carry you forward.

Hi Mike,
 
I definitely would choose the same order of things, with the modifications I noted in the log. I have turned my attention to the main mast, and will be repeating the procedure steps, with refinement.
 
I hear you on the photo.  However, I am finding all kinds of hidden faults when I view my photos.  I already know that I am going to have to do some touch painting, but have resigned myself to patiently wait until the very end.
 
Scott,
 
I have to honestly say that I was intimidated by this part of the build, and have now come full circle. I very much enjoy rigging this great ship. My knowledge of how a 19th Century sailing ship worked has greatly increased. I have also improved my knot tying skills (which is not hard since I had none when I started). The real challenge has been navigating through the plans and instruction book. I hope that my experience and the many mistakes I made will help fellow Niagara builders overcome any misgivings with this part of the build. Once you get started, the beauty of each line that you install will carry you forward.

BOWSPRIT SHROUDS
 
Just a quick update as I go through the plans and pick up some things that I misses at the bow. I installed the bowsprit shrouds.  I used a .025 black rope with a blackened black hook seized to one end and hooked to an eyebolt on the side of the hull.  The other end was lashed to a bullseye. I had to make up another batch of cherry bullseyes on my mini lathe (see previous post). I seized a .012 tan lanyard to the bullseye and wound it to the bullseyes lashed to the bowsprit.
 
Another tedious endeavor.  The Bowsprit/jib is a very complicated place with ropes and lines going in every direction.  The good news is that I believe I have completed all of the rigging up front and as far as I can tell, no line is rubbing up against its neighbor.

Joel,
 
Well said my friend.
 
I have made a number of such changes in routing. Currently, my royal sheets and clews pass through the fairlead on the lower shrouds, through the ratlines, and belay to the pin rail. None of the lines are permanently secured. I pass them through the holes in the pin rail, and secure them by wedging a pin in the hole.  It allows me to undo them, which I have had to do a number of times to eliminate chafing. So far, so good
 
The mighty essence of this ship is beginning to take the stage, and I must say, it is great to behold.
 
I am just about ready to break out the main mast. It is still in pieces and looks totally naked compared to its sister. The thought of doing this herculean task all over again is pretty overwhelming.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

FUTTOCK SHROUDS
For all of the planning, I forgot to install the futtock shrouds before raising the course yard. It was therefore a bit more taxing with the yard always in the way.
 
I used .025 black rope. I seized a blackened brass hook on the end, attached that to the bottom of the deadeye and wound the other end around the stave and lashed it to the shroud. This is not easy. I placed a small drop of CA on the shroud, and held the futtock line in place until it set.  That allowed me to then apply two lashings.
 
Once done, I dressed them up with ratlines.
 
​Once I install the catharpin, another daunting task, it should pull all of the shrouds together and tighten up the lines. It is quite amazing how everything "ties together." Rigging this model has proven the engineering prowess of the 19th century shipwright

SETTING THE COURSE YARD IN PLACE
 
With the course yard fully dressed, I pinned it in place, and weaved the lanyards for the truss blocks and sling ropes. I used a heavy .018 tan lanyard for the sling.
 
​The truss assembly has a complex combination of a double lashing around the yard, with two 1/8 single blocks, and a single lashing around the mast.
 
l also rigged the course lifts with .018 tan rope.

Mike,
 
This is really coming along nicely. Great bucket!  How does it feel to work in a macro world?

Hi Mike,
 
I definitely would choose the same order of things, with the modifications I noted in the log. I have turned my attention to the main mast, and will be repeating the procedure steps, with refinement.
 
I hear you on the photo.  However, I am finding all kinds of hidden faults when I view my photos.  I already know that I am going to have to do some touch painting, but have resigned myself to patiently wait until the very end.
 
Scott,
 
I have to honestly say that I was intimidated by this part of the build, and have now come full circle. I very much enjoy rigging this great ship. My knowledge of how a 19th Century sailing ship worked has greatly increased. I have also improved my knot tying skills (which is not hard since I had none when I started). The real challenge has been navigating through the plans and instruction book. I hope that my experience and the many mistakes I made will help fellow Niagara builders overcome any misgivings with this part of the build. Once you get started, the beauty of each line that you install will carry you forward.

Hi Mike,
 
I definitely would choose the same order of things, with the modifications I noted in the log. I have turned my attention to the main mast, and will be repeating the procedure steps, with refinement.
 
I hear you on the photo.  However, I am finding all kinds of hidden faults when I view my photos.  I already know that I am going to have to do some touch painting, but have resigned myself to patiently wait until the very end.
 
Scott,
 
I have to honestly say that I was intimidated by this part of the build, and have now come full circle. I very much enjoy rigging this great ship. My knowledge of how a 19th Century sailing ship worked has greatly increased. I have also improved my knot tying skills (which is not hard since I had none when I started). The real challenge has been navigating through the plans and instruction book. I hope that my experience and the many mistakes I made will help fellow Niagara builders overcome any misgivings with this part of the build. Once you get started, the beauty of each line that you install will carry you forward.

I understand your concerns. However your ship looks great, and she is going to look even better when you begin to add her life lines. When you feel comfortable, there are many of us out there willing to lend a hand.
 
Good luck with the Rattlesnake. I will be riding along.

Mike,
 
This is really coming along nicely. Great bucket!  How does it feel to work in a macro world?

BOWSPRIT SHROUDS
 
Just a quick update as I go through the plans and pick up some things that I misses at the bow. I installed the bowsprit shrouds.  I used a .025 black rope with a blackened black hook seized to one end and hooked to an eyebolt on the side of the hull.  The other end was lashed to a bullseye. I had to make up another batch of cherry bullseyes on my mini lathe (see previous post). I seized a .012 tan lanyard to the bullseye and wound it to the bullseyes lashed to the bowsprit.
 
Another tedious endeavor.  The Bowsprit/jib is a very complicated place with ropes and lines going in every direction.  The good news is that I believe I have completed all of the rigging up front and as far as I can tell, no line is rubbing up against its neighbor.

SETTING THE COURSE YARD IN PLACE
 
With the course yard fully dressed, I pinned it in place, and weaved the lanyards for the truss blocks and sling ropes. I used a heavy .018 tan lanyard for the sling.
 
​The truss assembly has a complex combination of a double lashing around the yard, with two 1/8 single blocks, and a single lashing around the mast.
 
l also rigged the course lifts with .018 tan rope.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

FUTTOCK SHROUDS
For all of the planning, I forgot to install the futtock shrouds before raising the course yard. It was therefore a bit more taxing with the yard always in the way.
 
I used .025 black rope. I seized a blackened brass hook on the end, attached that to the bottom of the deadeye and wound the other end around the stave and lashed it to the shroud. This is not easy. I placed a small drop of CA on the shroud, and held the futtock line in place until it set.  That allowed me to then apply two lashings.
 
Once done, I dressed them up with ratlines.
 
​Once I install the catharpin, another daunting task, it should pull all of the shrouds together and tighten up the lines. It is quite amazing how everything "ties together." Rigging this model has proven the engineering prowess of the 19th century shipwright

BOWSPRIT SHROUDS
 
Just a quick update as I go through the plans and pick up some things that I misses at the bow. I installed the bowsprit shrouds.  I used a .025 black rope with a blackened black hook seized to one end and hooked to an eyebolt on the side of the hull.  The other end was lashed to a bullseye. I had to make up another batch of cherry bullseyes on my mini lathe (see previous post). I seized a .012 tan lanyard to the bullseye and wound it to the bullseyes lashed to the bowsprit.
 
Another tedious endeavor.  The Bowsprit/jib is a very complicated place with ropes and lines going in every direction.  The good news is that I believe I have completed all of the rigging up front and as far as I can tell, no line is rubbing up against its neighbor.

Joel,
 
Well said my friend.
 
I have made a number of such changes in routing. Currently, my royal sheets and clews pass through the fairlead on the lower shrouds, through the ratlines, and belay to the pin rail. None of the lines are permanently secured. I pass them through the holes in the pin rail, and secure them by wedging a pin in the hole.  It allows me to undo them, which I have had to do a number of times to eliminate chafing. So far, so good
 
The mighty essence of this ship is beginning to take the stage, and I must say, it is great to behold.
 
I am just about ready to break out the main mast. It is still in pieces and looks totally naked compared to its sister. The thought of doing this herculean task all over again is pretty overwhelming.

BELAYING FOREMAST STAYS AND RUNNING RIGGING
 
With the course yard in place, it was time to finally time to “tie up some loose ends” – actually, a lot of loose ends.
On the Foremast Back Stays, from top to bottom:
 
1.      Royal Back Stay – Seized to top of the mast and belayed to a tackle hooked to waterway eyebolt.
 
2.      Top Gallant Backstay – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
3.      Topmast Backstays (2) – Seized to mast and belayed to deadeye on channel
 
On the Foremast Running Rigging, from top to bottom:
 
4.      Royal Halliard – belayed to the lower stave
 
5.      Royal Clew Line – tied off at end of the royal yard, left slack, and belayed to the lower stave
 
6.      Royal fixed lift – tied off at top of mast and end of royal yard.
 
7.      Royal Sheets – tied off on end of t’gallant yard, routed through block in shrouds, and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
8.      Top Gallant Tye – wound around t’gallant yard and seized to a tackle attached to lower top.
 
9.      Top Gallant Lift – Tied to end of t’gallant yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to lower stave.
 
 
10.  Top Gallant Clew – Tied to end of t’gallant yard, left slack, routed through block on yard (held with a knot) and belayed to pin rail on deck.
 
11.  Top Sail Lift – Tied to end of top sail yard and routed through block in shroud and belayed to tackle on lower top.
 
12.  Top Sail Clew Lines – I seized the blocks with the clew lines to the top sail yard, but have not figured out what to
do with them.  Per the plans, they run to blocks lashed to the course yard and back up to the seized block on the top sail yard.
 
On the Bowsprit, all routed through holes in the chock rail and belayed to pins in the forward pin rail
 
13.  Jib Stay Halliard
 
14.  Outer Jib Stay Halliard
 
15.  Inner Jib Stay Halliard
 
16.  Fore Stay Halliard
 
17.  Spritsail Yard Lift
 
18.  Top Gallant Stay Leads
 
 
 
Still to do (or figure out)
 
1.      Top Sail Sheets,
 
2.      Course Sheets.
 
3.      Course Clew lines.
 
I am not sure this is correct.  It is the best I could do in my interpretation of the plans. I have not completely decided to do with the buntlines, reefs, and leechlines – except to eliminate them. By adding the clew lines and sheets, I have at least added some of the running rigging for sails that will not be added to the ship
.
Here is a series of photos that show you where I am at presently.  The steps in this post took a solid 5 days to complete.

SETTING THE COURSE YARD IN PLACE
 
With the course yard fully dressed, I pinned it in place, and weaved the lanyards for the truss blocks and sling ropes. I used a heavy .018 tan lanyard for the sling.
 
​The truss assembly has a complex combination of a double lashing around the yard, with two 1/8 single blocks, and a single lashing around the mast.
 
l also rigged the course lifts with .018 tan rope.

FUTTOCK SHROUDS
For all of the planning, I forgot to install the futtock shrouds before raising the course yard. It was therefore a bit more taxing with the yard always in the way.
 
I used .025 black rope. I seized a blackened brass hook on the end, attached that to the bottom of the deadeye and wound the other end around the stave and lashed it to the shroud. This is not easy. I placed a small drop of CA on the shroud, and held the futtock line in place until it set.  That allowed me to then apply two lashings.
 
Once done, I dressed them up with ratlines.
 
​Once I install the catharpin, another daunting task, it should pull all of the shrouds together and tighten up the lines. It is quite amazing how everything "ties together." Rigging this model has proven the engineering prowess of the 19th century shipwright

Jerry,
 
Very good advice. I have not glued anything yet, and if I do any gluing, I will use a diluted white glue that can easily be undone.  Your suggestion of not gluing anything may be better yet.
 
I read somewhere on this forum (please forgive me since I can't remember where) that you should pass the lines through the pin rail holes and then insert the pins to wedge the lines in place, then wrap around.  That is a GREAT idea. I wish I could take credit for that. It has made the process of tieing those lines tight very manageable. 
 
Gary Owen

COURSE YARDS
 
Now that I have completed the foremast shrouds with sheaves, fairleads and ratlines, and did about as much running rigging as I could, it was time to mount the course yard.  Before I did that, I had to dress up the bare spar.
 
On all of the yards that have jackstays and foot ropes, it is advisable to seize all of the blocks, slings, braces etc BEFORE you do the jackstays and foot ropes.  That way, all of the blocks can be stropped in a vice with oversized loops that can be simply slipped over the yard and tightened. If you add the jactstays or foot ropes, you will have to slip the seizing rope between the lines and the yard and tie and stropping loop on the yard instead of the vice.
 
The yard is now ready to mount.
 
I now face a daunting decision.  How much running rigging do I want to add to a ship WITHOUT any sails. I have attached all of the blocks as per the plans, and possibly could run buntlines, sheets, clew lines, etc, but have no sails to attach the lines to.  I understand that I could just tie off the ends to the yards and such, but wonder just how much detail I need to add to the ship.
 
For now, I have decided to rig clew lines and some of the sheets (course and topsail), tying the ends to the yards (instead of to sails that are not present). No buntlines.
 
Does this make any sense?  Any suggestions?