Trussben

Chapter 1 has now been completed with all framing done.
Lots of sanding and fairing of the hull has begun, this is going to take time and make a lot of mess.
Then Chapter 2 will start with the painting of the gunports and installation of the frieze panels.
 



 

Chapter 1 has now been completed with all framing done.
Lots of sanding and fairing of the hull has begun, this is going to take time and make a lot of mess.
Then Chapter 2 will start with the painting of the gunports and installation of the frieze panels.
 



 

Aft cant framing completed and then I added the two inner stern posts ready for the transoms.
 


 

I have had good luck with the printed Friezes by doing this as well, but I first spray them after they come off the printer with a matt fixative, when they have been glued on the model I then give them a couple of coats of Testors Dullcoat.

It’s an ink stabilizer and UV protector that helps stop fading. spray on until wet and then allow to dry, I use the Krylon brand stuff.
 
The dullcoat is a varnish lacquer that will do the final seal and give a tougher finish.
 
 

Looking really good JJ.
 
 

Looks Awesome.

Looks fantastic JJ.

Great progress.

Looks Fantastic JJ.

Portland is coming along really nicely JJ, but also cant wait to see you back on the Winnie too!
Will the lower deck be getting a full set of cannons/carriages or just dummy cannon barrels sticking out?

Moving right along...
 
The elm pumps and mast coats were completed.  The mast coats were straight forward.  They were made by gluing three lasercut layers together.  The same as on the Winnie and other projects.  These are interesting however as the are octagonal.  So are the masts partly up their length.   The laser char was removed and the top edges were beveled or rounded off.   Then they were glued together and painted as on the contemporary model.   
 
The pumps were a whole different story.   On the contemporary model these pumps are quite elegant and light.  They are shown with very thin parts and slightly different than others I have seen or built.  There is a long slender metal post that supports the handle.  The handle is also very thin and long.  How these builders achieved this detail at 1/4" scale just amazes me.  They are also painted red on the contemporary model.  Just look at how thin and delicate the pumps are on the model below.  Note the small carved panel detail on each face of the pump.  I really wanted to see if I could replicate this same delicate look on my model at 3/8" scale.  Although less worn and dusty, LOL.
 


 
Anyhow...I decided to try my hand at 3D printing this.  Not only to make construction easier but maybe I can incorporate some of those more delicate details this way.  The photo below also shows the mast coats completed and painted.   For the pumps I had to create a left and right matching pair.   The body and its long slender metal post is all designed as one piece.  My attempt at those very subtle carved panels can hopefully be seen in my poor photographs.  You can leave the pumps natural and just paint the metalwork or go red as I have done.  Its up to you and they are printed with a tan/boxwood color resin for this purpose.  
 
The handle is laser cut from actual boxwood since it will be left natural and ties in an actual wood element to help pull off the realistic look.  I added a piece of 24 gauge black wire to the handle before gluing the handle onto the pump.   There is a hole in the bottom of the pump hole for this but I did drill it out larger for the wire.   I glued the handle in position trying to establish the same height and angle for them port and starboard.
 

Here is what they look like on the model.   There were holes in the deck where the pumps will go to help with placement so you can kind of match them to the pump tubes below deck.  Its not very difficult to do.
 

While not a perfect match to the contemporary model I think the slender and delicate look has been faithfully recreated.  I also decide what the hay...and painted the bsprit step red as well as I complete more deck fittings.  Oh and the mast coats are not glued in position yet.  That will be left for later when we step the masts.
 

 
One last fitting remains on the gun deck.  That is the capstan and I will build that next.   Then its onto the poop deck rail and details.
 
Chuck
 

Transoms sat in place but no glue yet.

Excellent Progress Chuck, the upright framing technique you have developed for Speedwell is really superb - I look forward to see how you do the cant frames and the Bollard Timbers!
 

Looks Awesome.

Today I finished the main wale, a huge milestone after 10 days of a nonstop planking party. Just half of the other side to go now. Once both wales are complete I can move onto finishing out the gunports with some fine tuning and another nice coat of red. I need to figure out the width of 1-2 planks below the main wale and probably 1-3 planks up from the keel, then I can finally protect all those pear frames and move onto the QG’s.
 

Transoms sat in place but no glue yet.

Aft cant framing completed and then I added the two inner stern posts ready for the transoms.
 


 

Lots of dust on the model...maybe today I will clean it all up.
 
Anyway...the bowsprit step/Belfry was up next. At this point none of the fittings are glued on deck.   I am not yet sure if I will paint it red or leave it natural.  The contemporary model has it painted red but the paint is so worn and light on that model it all pretty much blends in to everything else.  So I will wait until all of the fittings are made to determine whether I paint this.  I know the heel of of bowsprit inboard will be painted red so I will wait to see if painting the bsprit step red would be too much.
 

 
Here are most of the elements laser cut for the bstep/belfry.  There is a bunch of faking it on this fitting but in the end you wont be able to tall.  First I cleaned these Cedar pieces of laser char.  Dont be shy here.  It will all come off and look clean but takes time and care.  I used some 220 grit and 320 grit sanding sticks and even a sharp #11 blade.   You can see one side of the bstep all cleaned of char.  The other has yet to be cleaned and shaped.   You must finish the top and match the shaped timberhead.  For this a sharp blade was used to make a series of "stop cuts" and then basically carve the two sides that needed shaping.  This was after char clean up.
 
The center where the bowsprit will be stepped was cleaned and assembled.  Note the aft side of the step.  I have inserted a small laser cut square to simulate the tenon of the bowsprit.  Its just easier and cleaner this way.  Leave it standing proud a bit.  The forward side sill has a nice deep mortice for the actual tenon of the bowsprit.
 
Then there were the belfry elements.  This includes a length of twisted square wire.  This will be proved.  Yes this is commercially available.   You must use the plan to shape it which is shown.   Then blacken it.  The other elements are also shown.
 

Moving along...the step is now completed and drilled with simulated bolts.  Once again these were black fishing line (30 lb).  Note the laser etched seam which should go on the outside if each side piece...dont mix up the side pieces when assembling.  I also drilled the holes for the wire belfry.   That wire was blackened.  The stock for the bell was completed at this time.  Some laserboard elements simulate the ironwork.  I glued the top on first and then the two faces.   Some 24 gauge wire was inserted into the ends of the stock.  But you can attach this to the wire frame anyway you wish.  I knew it would be a challenge to drill through the frame for most so once again this is simplified.  I just filed some slots on the inside of each frame of the twisted wire at the height needed. I used the plans to establish where.  These tiny grooves were enough of a slot to slide and glue the belfry stock in position.  Its pretty secure.   Its not under any pressure so it should be safe and secure.
 
Before doing so however, I added the handle to the top of the bell stock.  I just bent it according to the plans.   I used 22 gauge blk wire.  You can add a tiny length of rope if want to.  I have decided not to as they always seem to hang left or right or curl up and that annoys me.  The bell was simply glued to the underside of the stock.   Then it was glued within the frame as described.
 

 
There is a little bit of cleaned up needed as my fingers must have been dirty.  But this is the result.
 

 

And finally shown on deck but not glued in position yet.  The companionway hood is also not glued in position yet.  No hurry with that.  This completes the fcastle deck fittings.  Now we start the gun deck fittings.  Ignore the dust!!!
 

 
Comments and questions are always welcome!!!
 
Chuck

Transoms sat in place but no glue yet.

1: 64 HMS Surprise prototype build - Vanguard Models

Before we can tuck into a plate of 'eggs 'n bacon' next year, we have the not very small matter of HMS Surprise to attend to. We believe this kit will make many, many folk very happy indeed! There's been so much interest in this that it was about time we saw it released in typical VM style. This is the build which will feature in the instruction manual and here you'll see mostly images that will appear there, plus maybe a few other less polished photos which show the clutter that I really surround myself in!
 
Here's an in-progress profile that Chris is currently working on, of Surprise. This will feature in the plans, along with a whole ton of extra folding paper for you to study.
 

 
This extremely heavy box arrived about an hour ago. This isn't the complete kit either, but there are two sets of everything to build the hull up to and including planking. Chris has used an Indy box to ship this in, so those of you who've built Indy, will recognise this behemoth of a packing box. So far weighing in at around 12kg.

 
A statement? A fact?
Definitely one of those.

 
I'll shortly be digging through all of the contents and doing a few iPhone photos for this build log.

...coming very soon 🤪
 
 
 

Transoms sat in place but no glue yet.

Transoms sat in place but no glue yet.

Aft cant framing completed and then I added the two inner stern posts ready for the transoms.
 


 

Transoms sat in place but no glue yet.