Charlie1805

Wow, wow, wow ,  so beautiful

Wow, wow, wow ,  so beautiful

The bow structure is finally finished. Some details are missing, which I will do later
 

I finally fixed the bow structure:
 










 

This instead is the front room where I stored all my lifelong models......
 

Log #68: Master & Commander
Thank you to everyone who has stopped by for the comments and encouragement. I continue to slowly work on the rat lines, but decided to take a bit of a break to do something a bit more fun.
 
As I have previously shown I ordered a figure from vanguard models which I plan to include on Alert to demonstrate scale. To start things I cut it off of the base and primed it in black before doing a zenithal highlight with white ink.

The zenithal highlight does two things. First it helps me to get a feel for the model and second it highlights the areas that will be brighter giving me less work later.
 
The next step was to base coat the colours and start work on the face. As a general rule I like to paint inside out. Starting with the hardest to reach areas and then moving on to the easier ones. My go to for painting white skin is the following tutorial.
 
You can see below the state of affairs after the base costs and the skin done. Note at this point I mistakenly thought he was wearing boots, this was corrected later.

Next up was the pants and socks. After difficult to reach, my next priority is to paint the hard colours, the ones that don't cover very well. The paints I used for the pants can be seen below.

Then I painted the coat and here are the paints used for it.

You may be wondering why I have red on a blue coat. The reason is that I find for making shadows I like to mix in a colour from the other side of the colour wheel. In this case I went with red as I wanted a warm purple for the shadows.
 
And then finally the gold details. I did this in a non-metalic metal style using the following paints.

And here was the final result. Not the smoothest gradients I have ever done, but good enough. Particularly when you are looking at it from normal viewing distances it holds up well enough.

I would love to see photos of your shop. 

I finished with this little decorations:





 

I finally finished the first set of sidewall decorations:
 





 

Here are some other pictures of that ship. Do not remember the source. I probably have 100 or more SR reference photos I use for reference. Had an entire file of Victory photos that numbered hundreds. Quite a few belonged to all you guys who helped me along the way. 















 


 

another piece:





 

Wing transom and quarter panels
The wing transom is made from 5/16" sheet. Using the template from the plan sheet, I cut out the basic shape and then milled the four angled notches. The templates for the remaining curve shape (forming that parallelogram shape) are on the plan sheet as well. I just copied what Chuck has described in his build log on page 8, post #228. The wing transom was pinned with 24 gauge wire and glued to the deadwood. The pinning was done to make it easier to set the height of each end and fore/aft positioning without having to worry about it sliding back and forth at the same time.
 
After the wing transom was installed I started work on the two quarter panels which attach to the wing transom. What is important to note is that the cant frames should be fully faired prior to installing the quarter panels. I worked on this until I got a smooth transition between the last aft cant and the quarter panel. Once that was done, I glued the panels in place.


Mike

fixed all guns









 

Cant frames (aft)
Framing continues with the install of aft cant #24. This is basically a repeat of what was done with the fore cants. Just less work overall. Anyway, here you go.



Mike

Beautiful work Mike!!!

The last of the square frames were installed over the weekend. A little over six months for all the frames so far. Now the fun begins. Time to grease the elbows and start fairing. I'll be working mostly aft from the vertical support jig which is attached to the build board. Also I made tick marks on of a few of the cant frames that are in need of a bit more work.


Mike

Hi guy's! A little over a month and 15 more frames added. Fairing continues after every 5-6 frames. I can't stress how important it is to fair as you go along. The hull shape is constantly changing, so the previously faired section needs additional work in order to match the newly faired section. Additional supports were added above the gun ports.

Mike

I am very excited to be starting Speedwell, my next project and build log. Over the years I have really enjoyed collaborating with Chuck while building his designs. That includes all the ships I have built which are the 18th Century Longboat, Cheerful, and most recently, Winchelsea. Without his help I would never have been able to accomplish anything near what I have done so far. As always, I come away from each build knowing that there is always room for improvement. Hopefully Speedwell will show signs of that.
 
My first attempt at POF was David Antscherl‘s Hayling Hoy. Although it might be considered a first time POF model, I found out quickly that it had many challenges for me. The scratch frames were just one of them. Since that time I never lost interest in trying another POF. Chuck first mentioned building his version of Speedwell at 1/4". At the time, I really wasn’t all that interested in doing a small Speedwell like what Greg Herbert was already working on. That all changed when the decision was made to build an up-sized version. I was not surprised to hear that Chuck would add his own interpretation of the ship which would make it all the more interesting for me to build.
 
Speedwell will be a mix of scratch and kit. Just how much of each I really don’t know. The plan is to build the ship in boxwood which is not an option offered by Chuck. For that I have turned to Hobbymill.EU as my source for the wood and I highly recommend them. https://www.hobbymill.eu/  If I were to go the more traditional route like Greg did on his beautifully built Speedwell, then my build would be a hybrid and I would not be able to follow Chuck on this project.
 
The reference for the build is Chuck's build log and forthcoming monograph. I will try to mention only those things that are different or unique to my build. I think that this would be less confusing for those who wish to follow both logs. My goal is to stay scratch as much as possible while maintaining the basic procedures that Chuck would want all of the builders will follow. It will be challenging in places where it would otherwise be relatively easy. Honestly, I really do prefer it that way.
 
Chapter one: knee of the head, stem and gammoning knee
The knee of the head was made in the usual way. Individual pieces were shaped to the outline of an attached paper template. The paper templates were attached with Elmer's School Glue which I find holds better than rubber cement. The paper can be removed easily with a little water on a Q-tip or paper towel.
 
The mill made it much easier to cut some of the straight segments in parts like the lacing piece.
One more piece then ready for final outer shaping before adding the stem assembly.

The stem assembly is added to the completed knee assembly. The knee sits against a backing piece and small pine blocks are used to tighten the joint while the glue sets.
When sanding the flat taper in the knee of the head, the upper forward area of the bobstay piece was gradually tapered down to 4mm thickness at the upper fore edge. After a final sanding and tapering I added the gammoning knee.

Mike

Hi Dave,
Thanks for your interest. Have you considered starting a build log? It would be interesting to see a POB version.
 
Continuing with some catch up on my progress so far.
 
Keel
This is all very similar to what I did on the Winchelsea. The lower stem has a true boxing joint. The straight lengths of keel were made from two layers of 5/32” sheet which were offset, thus creating the half lap joint. The first section I added was the one that attaches to the knee and stem assembly. Additional keel sections were added to that by working aft. The false keel and rabbet strip were then cut and added to the keel.
 
For the keel bolts I used (.023) 30 pound black fishing line. The only change I made was to use a No. 73 bit instead of a No. 71. It provided the snug fit I was looking for. Holes were drilled about 1/8” deep.



Mike
 

Hi all! I totally forgot I put this one together and thought I'd share. It's a Talos style size comparison chart of various small ships schooners etc. I was going to wait and add the HMS Swift as well but figured ah let me put it up now and see what you all think (Swift would be just a bit larger than Berbice). Look at how small the 31 Doughty cutter actually is!

I've had two goes at the Winchelsea. I realised not long into the first build that the model was far too complex for someone of my limited experience and skill level so I gave up to start again. W2 was a much better effort but there were things I was unhappy with and  I ( I suspect many of us) can get disproportionately bugged by things I look at and think: if I did that again I'd do it better. So I took a break and made Syren's lovely cutter Cheerful in boxwood from Hobbymill EU and I'm very pleased with it too.
 
I thought I might have a go at a scratch build but I think that's beyond me. Apart from any other failings I simply don't have the knowledge. What I want to build though is a fully rigged ship. My own view - lots won't share it - is that rigging really sets off a model beautifully. So I've decided to have a go at a fully rigged Winchelsea. Scratch building the masts seems reasonably achievable and within my compass. And having had two as it turns out dummy runs at Winchelsea I'm reasonably confident I can make a decent effort this time.
 
So here goes.
 
I decided to start with the masts on the footing that if I can't get those right the project will go nowhere. I'm not strung up on historical accuracy (though I would welcome observations). I'm using a combination of Shipyard Model HMS Enterprize and Anatomy of a Ship HMS Diana plans with Herbert/Antscherl books for methodology.
 
I started with the crosstrees for the main mast. Here are parts 1-4, again in boxwood from Hobbymill EU.. 


And then the tops.







I made the mizzen mast first. Here it is (with the bowsprit).

This is the mizzen top more or less complete thogh I wonder if I should file down the radating battens towards the centre a bit more yet. The top is not glued to the crosstrees and the cap is not finished.
 

And here the bowsprit. Cutting the bowsprit from square section to this stage took most of of a full day.




And here trying the bowsprit for size (although not yet cut to length) on W2. I'm also having a bit of a go - experimenting really - at the ship's boats. That is the pinnace sitting midships.
 

 
I have cut out and assembled all the frames with sockets to take the masts. This is where I am at the moment. The masts of course are not glued in nor are the tops glued to the crosstrees or topmasts glued.

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 

 

 
 

All the best everyone
Fred
 
 
 

So beautiful  Respekt

So beautiful  Respekt

So beautiful  Respekt