Overworked724

Takes forever...binge watching Netflix helps. It’s practice for coppering the hull. 🤣

I agree with Justin. Try it out on a sample before attempting on the model. For mine I used toothpicks (each individually sanded to be more pointy). Back then it felt like the entire process was never going to end!! 
 
Also, applying tung oil to the wood with the inserted treenails allowed for the oil to be soaked into the grain edge of the toothpicks giving a nice darker finish than the rest of the planks

Making quick progress.   Think long and hard about those treenails...  in my opinion they are a delicate detail that can make or break a finish - and ones patience!

I just measured using a caliper and straight edge with a drafting pencil (sharp as hell point). Once the line was drawn, I placed the plank against the edge of a wider plank of the same thickness as a backstop. 
 
I took a small metal ruler and glued 800 grit sandpaper to the back. 
 
Then I put the metal ruler along the top of both pieces lining up the edge of the rule with the cutting mark. The sandpaper keeps them from moving. 
 
Then I used a #11 blade and ran it gently down the line a few times...the lighter you press the more strokes is required but you don’t run into issues with the blade catching any cross grain and screwing up your cut. Then I just cleaned up the cut edge with 1000 grit sanding pad. 
 
Later on I managed to get an old plank clamp but I thought the above method gave me consistent results. 
 
Think there’s probably some great methods out there...but I had the same problem. Good luck!

Looks fantastic!  PVA glue or CA to lock the rail in place?

If You are a Newbie (Like me):   About now, you are at this point, are saying to yourself..... Now I need a plank ripping device that can cut at an angle.   Well, that's what I am saying.  According to the math, I need 22 planks to fit into a slot, not made for that many.   So I need to shave off about 5/32" and leave 3 allowing the 22 planks to fit the bow.  (I have decided to split the planks somewhere in the middle, on a bulkhead so I can bend them at both ends.
Thanks to @Overworked724 for giving me an idea how to make one.
 
I used 3 steel rulers (6", 18" and 1 meter) to create a channel to fit and hold the plank in place for cutting.  Using the 18" and 1 meter, they are long enough to create the small channel.  The 6" is used to actually cut the plank with a razor blade.  (it is thinner than a #11 X-acto blade.)  And all the clamps, and cutting board competes the platform.  Here are 2 pics, One of the "Linear Plank Cutting Machine" and the results on the bow.  😀

LOL...Thanks, I never thought about trying the cutting method.  Looks like a new #11 blade, and a very sharp pencil, and I will be good to go.

Still pecking away at the interior bulkhead planking. Work has been distracting these past few weeks but thought I would send a couple pics. 
 
The fixed sheave blocks actually look fairly decent when viewed from the exterior of the ship. 
 

 

 
The trick is getting good clean interior planking around them after they have been set in with glue. You can see (red circles) that I’ll still need to sand down the bulkheads about 0.5mm or so after I’ve completed the planking. This will also ensure the sheave blocks are flush on both sides. 
 

 

 
Sigh....more sanding in my future. 
 
Moving on!
 

 

I just measured using a caliper and straight edge with a drafting pencil (sharp as hell point). Once the line was drawn, I placed the plank against the edge of a wider plank of the same thickness as a backstop. 
 
I took a small metal ruler and glued 800 grit sandpaper to the back. 
 
Then I put the metal ruler along the top of both pieces lining up the edge of the rule with the cutting mark. The sandpaper keeps them from moving. 
 
Then I used a #11 blade and ran it gently down the line a few times...the lighter you press the more strokes is required but you don’t run into issues with the blade catching any cross grain and screwing up your cut. Then I just cleaned up the cut edge with 1000 grit sanding pad. 
 
Later on I managed to get an old plank clamp but I thought the above method gave me consistent results. 
 
Think there’s probably some great methods out there...but I had the same problem. Good luck!

Wow, that's a lot work there. I'm admiring your build and stealing some of your ideas. Verrrrry professional.

Will, Carl and Per, thank you for your kind comments!
Will, I turned the belaying pins from tooth picks on a little Proxxon lathe. To be able to repeat the pattern reliably, I just used a little drawing with the measures/dimensions of my target pin, which I had always in front of me and which I could use for comparison (see image). That actually worked pretty well 🙂 
 
Thomas
 

 
 

Nice detail on the deck fittings, especially the gallows bitts. The deck fitting are a nice break from the carronade rigging. Looking crisp and clean.

Looking great, Pat! Additional sanding is in all our futures, just comes with the territory I guess.

Still pecking away at the interior bulkhead planking. Work has been distracting these past few weeks but thought I would send a couple pics. 
 
The fixed sheave blocks actually look fairly decent when viewed from the exterior of the ship. 
 

 

 
The trick is getting good clean interior planking around them after they have been set in with glue. You can see (red circles) that I’ll still need to sand down the bulkheads about 0.5mm or so after I’ve completed the planking. This will also ensure the sheave blocks are flush on both sides. 
 

 

 
Sigh....more sanding in my future. 
 
Moving on!
 

 

Looks very crisp!!!!

Still pecking away at the interior bulkhead planking. Work has been distracting these past few weeks but thought I would send a couple pics. 
 
The fixed sheave blocks actually look fairly decent when viewed from the exterior of the ship. 
 

 

 
The trick is getting good clean interior planking around them after they have been set in with glue. You can see (red circles) that I’ll still need to sand down the bulkheads about 0.5mm or so after I’ve completed the planking. This will also ensure the sheave blocks are flush on both sides. 
 

 

 
Sigh....more sanding in my future. 
 
Moving on!
 

 

Still pecking away at the interior bulkhead planking. Work has been distracting these past few weeks but thought I would send a couple pics. 
 
The fixed sheave blocks actually look fairly decent when viewed from the exterior of the ship. 
 

 

 
The trick is getting good clean interior planking around them after they have been set in with glue. You can see (red circles) that I’ll still need to sand down the bulkheads about 0.5mm or so after I’ve completed the planking. This will also ensure the sheave blocks are flush on both sides. 
 

 

 
Sigh....more sanding in my future. 
 
Moving on!
 

 

Still pecking away at the interior bulkhead planking. Work has been distracting these past few weeks but thought I would send a couple pics. 
 
The fixed sheave blocks actually look fairly decent when viewed from the exterior of the ship. 
 

 

 
The trick is getting good clean interior planking around them after they have been set in with glue. You can see (red circles) that I’ll still need to sand down the bulkheads about 0.5mm or so after I’ve completed the planking. This will also ensure the sheave blocks are flush on both sides. 
 

 

 
Sigh....more sanding in my future. 
 
Moving on!
 

 

It is. Sherline 4400, 3.5 inch, 17 inches between centers.

Couldn’t get the boom buffer placed under the aft rail so I decided to tear it out and start over.
 

 
As others on this site I really didn’t like the white metal buffer that came with the kit so I decided to make my own. A big hats off to Richard (Retiredguy) for all his help. We exchanged many emails and he was kind enough to send me some parts he had left over when he built his boom buffer. While I didn’t use them, I was able to gain some insight and ideas from his expertise.
 
I also borrowed a trick from Pat, (Overworked724) to drill holes in brass tubing. Thanks Pat! I have a Dremel tool mounted to a Dremel workstation drill press. Not the most accurate tool but it will suffice until I get a new mill.
 
Using a block of wood, I drilled a hole to fit the brass tube. Inserting the tube in this hole, I then drilled down through one side of the tube so could attach the “legs”. I cut the tube pieces to proper length after drilling.
 

 
I used a small piece of tubing for the center and the 2 drilled pieces for the end pieces. Soldered the “legs” on the end pieces and soldered small diameter wire for form loops then added the ring.
 

 

 
Before finishing the main cabin I noticed the sailing version of this model required 1/32 solid wood hand rails on both sides of the cabin. I took “solid wood” to mean no stand offs so I cut the hand rails on the Byrnes saw and glued them in place.  Since the roof of the cabin was finished with tinted poly, CA glue worked just fine.
 

 
After staining the handrails and installing the side port lights I mounted the rest of the fixtures on the cabin, then mounted the remaining fixtures to the aft end of the deck.
 

 
Next up was the aft hatch. First I need to create a “shelf” that would hold the hatch cover flush with the sides of the hatch housing. I did this using the saw.
 

 
After cutting the four sides to the proper size I mitered the ends and glued them together to form the housing.
 

 
To create the small cove I made a shallow cut with a razor saw. Using this cut as a guide I used a 1/32 inch ball tip stylus to impress the cove into the wood. The cut with the razor saw keeps the stylus from wanting to follow the grain and wander.
 

 
To plank the hatch cover I first measured the inside of the housing and transferred that measurement to the saw. I did this for each plank individually.
 

 

 

 
 
After placing (not gluing) the hatch cover on the housing I sanded it down to match the edge of the housing and removed it for finishing. I could have hand painted the housing but using the airbrush gives a much nicer finish. But have to admit it longer to set up and clean the airbrush than it did to do the actual painting. Used the same tinted poly to finish the hatch cover and once dry I assembled the two pieces and added the eyebolts.
 

 

 

 
Will be taking a few days off from the build to study up on my new power tool, a Sherline lathe.
 

I cheated and bought one.
https://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/boat-building-tools/105-small-building-slip.html
I got it through hobbyworld.  Stock situation wasn’t very good due to covid, and they were pretty poor at responding to emails, but in the end, one showed up, and it’s working pretty well.
So much sanding...
 
I've got to admit, I’ve been following along on your build and the sandpaper on a paint stir sized piece of wood has been the best tool for so much of the work.

Very nice catch there, Pat. Looks like you're all set for a most enjoyable winter.

And the Total Irony.....   
 
When I got this finished, I looked at the front point of Garboard.   It turned out to be exactly where the picture in the instruction book shows.  In an effort to get more space, I “accidentally” got it in the right place.  Who knew? 😃

Exactly what happened to me.

A bit more done, framed out the cannon and sweep ports, still need to do a bit more work fairing them back to the bulkheads.
 

 
I used a piece of 1/2” plywood (which is really 15/32”) as a spacer to maker sure the cannon ports were sized right, worked out well to keep things parallel too.
 

 
Also planked the lower level.  I found if I used stain, but wiped it off immediately I got a nice color.  Ran a pencil line on one side of each joint, overall I think it’s a good look.  Not sure if it’ll matter in the end, but I also painted the below deck area black.
 

 
 

 
A bit more (lot more) sanding in my future, but moving onto the rear framing after.