EdatWycliffe

Hi Larry. I've been building Syren (Build log: EatWycliffe). Coincidentally, I was just wondering about where to purchase a better quality carronade barrel than the ones supplied with the kit. If you would share the info you supplied to KLarsen, I'd be appreciative. Thanks much. Ed

Thanks for the likes Sal, Bob, Gahm , Hermanous, Riksgewijs and Gundorph. Much appreciated! Very happy to have the company.
Still working on the gun port framing. Sanding the frames is almost as good as going to the gym. Hermanous and Riksgewijs, welcome to Model Ship World. It is a wonderful community that not only builds model ships but also builds good fellowship around the world. You will thoroughly enjoy it. Ed

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Doing some initial planning for this build. Reading through the entire instruction book to get a feel for the overall model and checking out the build of some pros like Dubz, Augie and Thomas. Should be able to start the actual build in a few weeks. Just finished MS kit Fair American (Kitbashed per Lauk Street Shipyard practicum). Fair American was my first plank-on-bulkhead build after completing the solid hull MS Phantom starter kit.
 
For Syren I ordered lumber from Crown Timberyard--holly for the deck and waterway and boxwood for deck furniture and hull planks above the copper. I must say that Jason at Crown Timberyard was extremely helpful In selecting woods and helping to determine what lumber I needed to build parts from scratch. I highly recommend the company. I'll order rope and Gratings from Chuck Passaro at Syren.
 
I'm very excited for this build!

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just completed Chapters 1 and 2 (bulkheads, fairing and lower deck) and began C.3 (gun port framing). Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date:
 
#1.  I tried to temporarily add the false keel using Elmer's repositionable poster stick. It worked well for a few days, but fell off. The false keel is still unattached. Happy to have a suggestion for a temporary glue or tape. Maybe I should just protect the keel and stem with blue tape and add the false keep permanently after coppering the lower hull.
 
#2 and #3.  Began placing the BHs in their slots on the BF. I used every trick I could find on others' build logs to keep the BHs perpendicular to the BF. That included, builder's squares, right angle fixtures, calipers and 2 1/2" pieces of right angle aluminum runners clamped to the BHs and the BF.
 
#4 and #5.  To be sure that the BF didn't warp, I made the traditional jig from scrap lumber to hold the keel straight and tight while the filler blocks were added. The jig was less stable than I think it should have been, but I figured that I could get the same no-warp effect if the keel was secured in my Amati hull vise. It seem to have worked--no warp.
 
#6 and #7.  The filler blocks are 1" x 2" balsa. I was really careful to measure the width of the filler blocks so that each BH is the same distance from the prior BH, both port and starboard, at a point as close to the BH extensions as I could measure. Similarly, I was careful not to make the fillers so wide that the fit between BHs was too tight and would throw the BHs out of alignment. I was particularly careful to be sure that BH 26 was perpendicular to the BF since the accuracy of all filler block measurements depended on that BH being perpendicular and seated properly in its slot.
 
#8.  The filler blocks look OK. The BHs were faired a bit before adding the filler blocks. Some of this preliminary fairing, inboard and outboard, was done prior to gluing the BHs permanently and a bit more after gluing the BHs but before adding the filler blocks. With the filler blocks added, it was time to finish the outboard fairing, fair the inboard BHs a lot more and add the lower deck.
 
#9 and 10.  I completed the outboard fairing and 80% of the inboard fairing and added the lower deck.
 
                   The fairing process took many hours and lots of testing with planks and battens to be sure that the runs were as smooth and graceful as I could get them. for much of the fairing I used a 3/4" x 7" nail file purchased in the beauty-care (yep, I swallowed my pride) section of the local supermarket. The File was a great combination of stiff and flexible so I could sand two or three BHs at a time and help keep the curve of the hull.
 
                   The lower deck was faux caulked using the artist's pencil method. I blackened both edges of each plank. I first applied Minwax pre-stain conditioner and then, a la Augie, a mix of Minwax Golden Oak (1/3) and Minwax Natural Oak (2/3) for the stain. I finished the deck with Wipe-On Poly. I like the look and will probably use that combination on the main deck.
 
#11.  It is now time to start C.3. (Framing the Gun Ports). But, before I do, a tip of the hat and great thanks to Chuck. The MS templates that came with the kit were out of scale. I sent Chuck a plea for a copy of the prototype templates and within less than one day, they were sitting on my computer. Chuck raises integrity to a new level.
 
                   The test batten for the gun port sills ran nearly spot on at each of the middle "template" marks on the BH extensions. I made only a 1/16" adjustment at a couple of BHs. Next installment--the gunport framing.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Doing some initial planning for this build. Reading through the entire instruction book to get a feel for the overall model and checking out the build of some pros like Dubz, Augie and Thomas. Should be able to start the actual build in a few weeks. Just finished MS kit Fair American (Kitbashed per Lauk Street Shipyard practicum). Fair American was my first plank-on-bulkhead build after completing the solid hull MS Phantom starter kit.
 
For Syren I ordered lumber from Crown Timberyard--holly for the deck and waterway and boxwood for deck furniture and hull planks above the copper. I must say that Jason at Crown Timberyard was extremely helpful In selecting woods and helping to determine what lumber I needed to build parts from scratch. I highly recommend the company. I'll order rope and Gratings from Chuck Passaro at Syren.
 
I'm very excited for this build!

Thanks for the kind words and "likes" Gundorph, Bob, Sal, Ryland, Gahm, Dubz, MD11Pilot, and Augie. It's real nice to have so many visitors in my small shipyard.
 
Q: Does anyone have a suggestion for "taping" the false keel to the stem slot and keel?
 
Regards, Ed

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

Looks great, Gundorph. You are really progressing fast. I'm much slower in my progress--not yet done with C.1. Just filed my first detailed log entry.
Regards, Ed

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed
 










 

Ed : I would fair the bulkheads when the fillerblocks are glued into place.. I live 160 Km from Copenhagen on Fyn... 
 
Made a jig for bending planks, the first planks and wales is in the jig now drying. So tomorrow i can get started with the wales...   

The build began on Monday 9-28-15. After months of rigging Fair American, I forgot how much fun it is to work with wood again. Below are 11 thumbnails showing progress to date.
#1 The obligatory photo of Syren still in the box. Parts were checked and counted for. I also wrote a list of the sections and parts to be from the boxwood and holly from Crown Timberyard. The stern will be the first try. (Incidentally, Jason at Crown sent a couple of pieces of beautiful pear wood. I'll definitely try to work them into the build.)

#2 The rabbet strip after soaking for 1/2 hour affixed to the bulkhead former for shaping. 

#3 The rabbet strip actually kept its shape after drying while affixed to the BF.

#4 The numbered and lettered bulkheads were tested in their proper slots. All but one were tight requiring a lot of standing. I chose to sand the BHs at the top where they contact the BF rather than sand the slots. That seemed easier. The BHs will likely need a bit more sanding when it's time to glue them permanently. The BHs were also sanded a bit to remove most of the char from the laser--except I'll wait to clean up those few BHs with the the laser bevel lines right up against the edge of the BH until after they are beveled.

#5 The rabbet strip has been glued to the BF with care to keep the strip centered.

#6 Shows the rabbet at the bow.

#7 Shows the rabbet at the stern. I think that the rabbets were done correctly, but won't be certain until planking. A little more sanding may be needed at the keel so that the plank runs smoothly. 

#8 The stem removed from its board, the char cleaned and the knee tapered. 

#9 First potential problem: I tested the figurehead on the stem knee and peaked are Chapter 10 (Head Rails and Figurehead) to see if there will be enough room for the lower head rail. There may not be. See thumbnail #10.

#10 The figurehead test fitted on the stem knee compared to the figurehead on the stem knee as shown on the prototype. The prototype figurehead is different and may have a deeper curve at the back so that the tail is higher above the bobstay holes. I mau have to deepen the hollow on the back of the figurehead when the time comes so that her tail is a bit higher on the knee. Does that sound right?

#11 the stem has been glued to the BF again with care to keep the rabbet equal on both sides. Either the BF or the stem was a bit warped so I used a lot of clamps to keep the stem centered.

Off to the gym while the glue dries. Retirement is wonderful!
 
Regards, Ed