EdatWycliffe

Finally some Fair American buildlog photos. Overall, the work is progressing. The spritsail yardarm, gaff, spanker boom, lower yard arms and lower yard arms have all been hoisted and pinned. (I also rigged the main topmast staysail downhaul and halyard, the main topgallant staysail downhaul and halyard and the Burton tackles.) I'm using the rigging order described in the Syren instructions.
 
The gaff, boom and spritsail are fully rigged. I also added boom guys since I thought that made sense to help guide the boom to the port and starboard. The slings and lifts have been added to the lower yardarms. Braces, clues, sheets and tacks for the lower yard arms will wait until the topsail and topgallant yard arms are mounted and rigged. The main topsail has its yard parrels installed, as well as the tye, halyard, halyard runner and halyard tackle. (I'm very grateful for help from KenW and Rafine). (I tried to conform to Petersson and Lees as much as I could, but given the limited belaying points and belaying plan in the FA kit, I added a pinch of imagination.)
 
The topgallant yard arm needs to be installed before I can rig the main topsail lifts (per Lees). The photos:
 
Boom, Gaff and Guys
 

 
Sprit sail
 

 
lower yard arms and spritsail overview
 

 
main top with parrels not yet rigged
 

 
main top with Burton tackles waiting to be belayed
 

 
spritsail rigging
 

 

 
yard arm overview with main topsail pinned
 

 

 
main topsail halyard runner  (port) and tackle (starboard)
 

 

 
fore topsail yard arm with Burton tackles belayed to main top
 

 
fore lower yard arm and spritsail yard arm
 

 
view down from onto the main and fore tops
 

 
As far a workmanship and skill sets--that too is a work in progress (from a D when I started to a C+/B- today. I made a lot of errors. Some are visible; some not, but I've learned from them all. Still great fun and wonderful learning experience. (I look forward to Syren as my next build.)
 
Ed (EdatWycliffe)
 
 

Finally some Fair American buildlog photos. Overall, the work is progressing. The spritsail yardarm, gaff, spanker boom, lower yard arms and lower yard arms have all been hoisted and pinned. (I also rigged the main topmast staysail downhaul and halyard, the main topgallant staysail downhaul and halyard and the Burton tackles.) I'm using the rigging order described in the Syren instructions.
 
The gaff, boom and spritsail are fully rigged. I also added boom guys since I thought that made sense to help guide the boom to the port and starboard. The slings and lifts have been added to the lower yardarms. Braces, clues, sheets and tacks for the lower yard arms will wait until the topsail and topgallant yard arms are mounted and rigged. The main topsail has its yard parrels installed, as well as the tye, halyard, halyard runner and halyard tackle. (I'm very grateful for help from KenW and Rafine). (I tried to conform to Petersson and Lees as much as I could, but given the limited belaying points and belaying plan in the FA kit, I added a pinch of imagination.)
 
The topgallant yard arm needs to be installed before I can rig the main topsail lifts (per Lees). The photos:
 
Boom, Gaff and Guys
 

 
Sprit sail
 

 
lower yard arms and spritsail overview
 

 
main top with parrels not yet rigged
 

 
main top with Burton tackles waiting to be belayed
 

 
spritsail rigging
 

 

 
yard arm overview with main topsail pinned
 

 

 
main topsail halyard runner  (port) and tackle (starboard)
 

 

 
fore topsail yard arm with Burton tackles belayed to main top
 

 
fore lower yard arm and spritsail yard arm
 

 
view down from onto the main and fore tops
 

 
As far a workmanship and skill sets--that too is a work in progress (from a D when I started to a C+/B- today. I made a lot of errors. Some are visible; some not, but I've learned from them all. Still great fun and wonderful learning experience. (I look forward to Syren as my next build.)
 
Ed (EdatWycliffe)
 
 

I apologize for the gap between postings. By way of explanation, last March I was elected president of our country club, and it's a real time sync. Nonetheless, it has made working on Fair American that much more important to my down time. 
 
I've completed the bowsprit and jib boom and the lower fore and main masts and I've started the main top mast. As the pictures below show, the bowsprit and jib boom were constructed (as best I could) using Bob's (Rafine) build log.
 
I adopted KenW's wooldings on the lower foremast. The rationale for including them seemed quite acceptable and I think that they look good.I hung eight double blocks under the mast top using the wire (alternative) method suggested by Chuck Passaro in the Syren instructions and made the deadeye plates from .012 rope (from Syren) shaped with an awl and a heavy application of CA. The blocks on the mast were hung using a double loop seizing method taught by Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard). I glued the mast cap in place but should have waited until I complete the topmast. (I'll have to put the fid in place after sliding the top mast through the cap.)
 
The lower main mast was built the same way as the fore mast, less wooldings. I've added a hook for the main boom. 
 
The main top mast is well under way. The hounds were difficult to make and I did use the build-up method shown in Fig. 22C of the instruction manual. I'm having a few conceptual problems with construction of the trestle and cross trees and asked KenW a few questions since he has completed that part and it looks real good.
 
So, I've got to finish the topmasts, make the top gallant masts and attach the bowsprit. And then I can finally start the standing rigging.
 

The cannons and cannon rigging are done and the deck furniture added. The eyes, padeyes and rings need to be added to the deck, but I see a start to masts and rigging soon.
 


 
Rigging the cannons was difficult, but through the trial and error process, I learned a technique for wrapping the blocks and preparing the pulley rigging that I'd like to share. The pictures below reflect the following steps:
 
1. I purchased 3/32 single boxwood blocks from Syren. Using a jeweler's saw with a very fine blade, I scored the groves a little deeper on both sides of the block.
 
2. Cut two pieces of 28 gauge wire each about 1" long. I used black colored Artistic Wire purchased at Michael's. Its has both strength and flexibility.
 
3. Lay each wire on the block and add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the block. (I use Zap medium+ gap-filling formula).
 
4. By hand, bend the wire around each block. At the end of one of the blocks, lay a piece of rigging rope about 5" or 6" long between the wire and the block. ( I used .20mm tan rope I purchased from Syren and was very pleased with the quality.) Leave about 1 1/2 " of rope at one side of the wire and the remaining length on the other side. I first prepared the rope by passing it through a block of bee's wax I purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics. Add another drop of CA on top of the wire on this side of the block.
 
5. Bend the wire around the block until it goes entirely around the block. Add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the end of the block and press down on the wire with the flat end of a needle nose plier (or other tool) so that the wire lays flat against the end of the block. 
 
6. I then used a #76 drill bit to ream out one of the holes in the block (I chose the hole closest to the wire bend that is furthest away from the end of the wire where the hook will be formed) to make reeving the rope easier. This step may not be necessary.
 
7. Seize the rope on one of the blocks. This block will eventually attach to the bulkhead and the other block will eventually attach to the eyelet on the cannon.
 
8. For, a hook at each at the end of each block. I used a needle nose plier with round ends.
 
9. Reeve the rope through the blocks and add the finished block and tackle assembly to the cannon. I found reeving so much easier of I dipped the end of the rope through a small amount of CA to make the rope stiff.
 

Thanks, Bob, Ken and Gary--appreciate the kind words. Gary, my understanding is that rudder vibration was lessened by tapering the rudder and adding a groove along the aft end.
 
Just completed the starboard main channel and I'm starting to fashion the chain plates. I used Bob's technique to attach the dead eyes to the channel leaving a loop under the channel on which to attach the hook of the chain plate.

With apologies, I have not posted for too long a time, so this post is overly long. I'll try to do better in the future.
 
Deck: I first added the raised portion of the deck and then finished the starboard and port sides simultaneously. Tree nails were simulated with small drilled holes colored with a sharp pencil lead. Plank lengths were simulated by Xacto knife scoring traced with a sharp pencil point. I primed the hull with spray gray auto primer and applied a first coat of Pollyscale acrylic paint according the plan paint scheme.
I took several breaks while planking the hull and the deck to fashion a binnacle, tree pumps, capstan bitts, cannon (14) and rudder. I followed Bob's lead and made the grudgeon and pintle from folder stock. The main rail came next.  I then added the ringbolts for the cannon carriage rigging, cleats and pin rails. (I still have the two bow pin rails to add.) I drilled scuppers and the fairleads into the hull and added the gangway stairs and chess tree. The transom was a bit of an engineering challenge because I built it too narrow. It resulted in just four windows rather than the six in the plan (or five if you did not want windows beyond the width of the great cabin.) Still, once the transom was painted, it looked OK, even if it lacked authenticity. I fitted the rudder to the stern post and then put it aside until the ship is mounted. (I knocked the rudder off the stern post twice before I got the brilliant idea, to put it aside until later.) 
 
As the photos indicate, I kept the quarterdeck open so that the great cabin could be "finished" per the Lauck Street Shipyard plans. I had a good time modeling the great cabin and adding details such as the checkered floor and a cleat used to tie off the rope that opens the gun port cover. The door to the great cabin is probably too small at the ship's scale, but in order to build it to five feet, it would have had to be 1 1/4" high and I simply did not know how to do that. So, I'll assume that my captain was very short. The "HL" door hinges were also made from folder stock painted black. I then planked the inside of the transom and added the flagstaff chock and socket and the main sheet horse.
 
The fancy rail, quarter badge and fashion piece came next. I made my own gun port cover and hinge assembly, copying Bob's ("Rafine's") work and the plans. Then the beak head--wow! That's as close as my hobby ever came to work. Nothing measured right and I ended up relying on the seat of my pants as much as the plans. I hope it looks half decent. (I do not have Bob's bending and laminating talent, or any other of his great ship-building skills, so I cut the rails from a solid piece of birch plywood.) Next came the timber heads, knight heads and catheads. I did manage to fashion the sheaves in the catheads by filing, drilling, adding the skinny part of a toothpick and laminating the sides. The channels and chain plates are in progress and I still need to add the steering wheel standard assembly. I anticipate another month or so to complete the hull and place the cannons, rigging and deck furniture.
 
I'm looking forward to starting the masts, spars and rigging. Great thanks to Bob and Ken for the invaluable guidance in their Fair American posts.

I'm now in the midst of the standing rigging on Fair American. Because the rigging plan, instructions and belaying plan leave a lot to be desired, I've done a lot of reading, particularly Lee's and Petersson. Those sources, together with the Syren instruction manual, Ken' log and Rafine's log, have taught me much and made me a much better ship builder. I've chosen Syren as my next build (although Rattlesnake sits in its box under my workbench). I think that with Chuck's instructions and my Fair American learning experience I'll be able to build a first-class ship. If you believe in jumping into the pool and thrashing about as a good way to learn to swim, I'd build Fair American before Syren. Good luck. Either choice will be a great experience.
 
EdatWycliffe

I'm now in the midst of the standing rigging on Fair American. Because the rigging plan, instructions and belaying plan leave a lot to be desired, I've done a lot of reading, particularly Lee's and Petersson. Those sources, together with the Syren instruction manual, Ken' log and Rafine's log, have taught me much and made me a much better ship builder. I've chosen Syren as my next build (although Rattlesnake sits in its box under my workbench). I think that with Chuck's instructions and my Fair American learning experience I'll be able to build a first-class ship. If you believe in jumping into the pool and thrashing about as a good way to learn to swim, I'd build Fair American before Syren. Good luck. Either choice will be a great experience.
 
EdatWycliffe

The stern lantern wasn’t as bad as I thought as I feared.  It was installed along with the flag(s) and the display stand.  I think the lantern adds to the overall look of the model. 
That completes the model after 19 months of pleasure.


 
Some photos of the completed model:
 

 
 
 

I was able to get some time in the shipyard today so I took the best photos I could of the ‘mess’ of lines and blocks under the tops (as requested by GaryKap).  I don’t know if this will help anyone because I feel that it looks just like the photos included in the instruction booklet.  My photos are in color, of course.
 
The foremast top looking aft:

 
The mainmast top looking forward:

 
The mainmast top looking aft:

 
The boat as seen from the dock:

 
Now it's on to the spritsail.

The topgallant yards have been mounted and fully rigged, including the braces.  All went without incident.  Again, I used Lees and Peterseen whenever the FA plans were incomplete or unclear.
Next up is to finish the rigging for the topsail (braces) and lower yards (braces, sheets and tacks) as well as mounting the spritsail yard.
 
          

The seven yard arms have ben shaped and are ready to be rigged with as many blocks and slings as possible while they are off the masts/bowsprit. I haven't yet added the stuns'l booms. I found some plastic tubing that may work well for the stuns'l irons. I may keep the yardarms natural color rather than painting them black. When the off-ship rigging is done, I'll start the standing rigging with the bowsprit and working my way aft. I find myself doing as much reading/research as modeling at this point and that adds a new and interesting aspect to the hobby. 
 

The seven yard arms have ben shaped and are ready to be rigged with as many blocks and slings as possible while they are off the masts/bowsprit. I haven't yet added the stuns'l booms. I found some plastic tubing that may work well for the stuns'l irons. I may keep the yardarms natural color rather than painting them black. When the off-ship rigging is done, I'll start the standing rigging with the bowsprit and working my way aft. I find myself doing as much reading/research as modeling at this point and that adds a new and interesting aspect to the hobby. 
 

The seven yard arms have ben shaped and are ready to be rigged with as many blocks and slings as possible while they are off the masts/bowsprit. I haven't yet added the stuns'l booms. I found some plastic tubing that may work well for the stuns'l irons. I may keep the yardarms natural color rather than painting them black. When the off-ship rigging is done, I'll start the standing rigging with the bowsprit and working my way aft. I find myself doing as much reading/research as modeling at this point and that adds a new and interesting aspect to the hobby. 
 

The seven yard arms have ben shaped and are ready to be rigged with as many blocks and slings as possible while they are off the masts/bowsprit. I haven't yet added the stuns'l booms. I found some plastic tubing that may work well for the stuns'l irons. I may keep the yardarms natural color rather than painting them black. When the off-ship rigging is done, I'll start the standing rigging with the bowsprit and working my way aft. I find myself doing as much reading/research as modeling at this point and that adds a new and interesting aspect to the hobby. 
 

I finished installing the fore lower yard.  It was pretty much the same as the main lower yard and, as usually happens; the second one was easier than the first.   In fact, there is not really much need for another build entry, but it gives me a chance to post another photo (from a different angle).


 

Very nice work, Ken.
 
Appreciate the advice from you and Bob regarding the yard tackle pendants. Actually I haven't even started the standing rigging. I thought I would construct all of the spars first. In doing so, I wanted to rig the YAs, etc as much as possible while they were off the the ship. That plunged me directly into how I would approach the running rigging. (It's a real game of dominoes.) I find the running rigging puzzle to be fascinating and frustrating, but your log, Bob's log, the Syren docs and Petersson's and Lee's books are very helpful. I'm stil finishing the spars, but at the same time I'm trying to figure out the slings, trusses and pendants. I'm sure I'll have questions. The only thing I think I've figured out is that the FA does not have jeers. After I've completed the spars, I'll attatch and rig the bowsprit and start the standing rigging on the masts. Lots to do.
 
Ship building is truly a wonderful hobby. Ed

Ken, the build looks absolutely great. The furling looks especially good! Love to watch your log.

The gaff, boom and spanker sail are finally done.  This sail was the hardest for me to furl.  The problem was with the ‘bend’ at the angle formed where the gaff meets the mast.  Also, the weight of the sail cloth didn’t help.  I finally managed to get something that looks O.K.  I used brail lines and their block pairs.  Have to thank the Lees, Antscherl and Peterseen books for their explanations and illustrations for guidance.  All are now mounted on the ship.  But I definitely need a better sail cloth if I’m going to add sails to my next build.  I have ordered cloth from various sites and the Amati cloth is the best of them, but I need better.
 

The cannons and cannon rigging are done and the deck furniture added. The eyes, padeyes and rings need to be added to the deck, but I see a start to masts and rigging soon.
 


 
Rigging the cannons was difficult, but through the trial and error process, I learned a technique for wrapping the blocks and preparing the pulley rigging that I'd like to share. The pictures below reflect the following steps:
 
1. I purchased 3/32 single boxwood blocks from Syren. Using a jeweler's saw with a very fine blade, I scored the groves a little deeper on both sides of the block.
 
2. Cut two pieces of 28 gauge wire each about 1" long. I used black colored Artistic Wire purchased at Michael's. Its has both strength and flexibility.
 
3. Lay each wire on the block and add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the block. (I use Zap medium+ gap-filling formula).
 
4. By hand, bend the wire around each block. At the end of one of the blocks, lay a piece of rigging rope about 5" or 6" long between the wire and the block. ( I used .20mm tan rope I purchased from Syren and was very pleased with the quality.) Leave about 1 1/2 " of rope at one side of the wire and the remaining length on the other side. I first prepared the rope by passing it through a block of bee's wax I purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics. Add another drop of CA on top of the wire on this side of the block.
 
5. Bend the wire around the block until it goes entirely around the block. Add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the end of the block and press down on the wire with the flat end of a needle nose plier (or other tool) so that the wire lays flat against the end of the block. 
 
6. I then used a #76 drill bit to ream out one of the holes in the block (I chose the hole closest to the wire bend that is furthest away from the end of the wire where the hook will be formed) to make reeving the rope easier. This step may not be necessary.
 
7. Seize the rope on one of the blocks. This block will eventually attach to the bulkhead and the other block will eventually attach to the eyelet on the cannon.
 
8. For, a hook at each at the end of each block. I used a needle nose plier with round ends.
 
9. Reeve the rope through the blocks and add the finished block and tackle assembly to the cannon. I found reeving so much easier of I dipped the end of the rope through a small amount of CA to make the rope stiff.
 

With apologies, I have not posted for too long a time, so this post is overly long. I'll try to do better in the future.
 
Deck: I first added the raised portion of the deck and then finished the starboard and port sides simultaneously. Tree nails were simulated with small drilled holes colored with a sharp pencil lead. Plank lengths were simulated by Xacto knife scoring traced with a sharp pencil point. I primed the hull with spray gray auto primer and applied a first coat of Pollyscale acrylic paint according the plan paint scheme.
I took several breaks while planking the hull and the deck to fashion a binnacle, tree pumps, capstan bitts, cannon (14) and rudder. I followed Bob's lead and made the grudgeon and pintle from folder stock. The main rail came next.  I then added the ringbolts for the cannon carriage rigging, cleats and pin rails. (I still have the two bow pin rails to add.) I drilled scuppers and the fairleads into the hull and added the gangway stairs and chess tree. The transom was a bit of an engineering challenge because I built it too narrow. It resulted in just four windows rather than the six in the plan (or five if you did not want windows beyond the width of the great cabin.) Still, once the transom was painted, it looked OK, even if it lacked authenticity. I fitted the rudder to the stern post and then put it aside until the ship is mounted. (I knocked the rudder off the stern post twice before I got the brilliant idea, to put it aside until later.) 
 
As the photos indicate, I kept the quarterdeck open so that the great cabin could be "finished" per the Lauck Street Shipyard plans. I had a good time modeling the great cabin and adding details such as the checkered floor and a cleat used to tie off the rope that opens the gun port cover. The door to the great cabin is probably too small at the ship's scale, but in order to build it to five feet, it would have had to be 1 1/4" high and I simply did not know how to do that. So, I'll assume that my captain was very short. The "HL" door hinges were also made from folder stock painted black. I then planked the inside of the transom and added the flagstaff chock and socket and the main sheet horse.
 
The fancy rail, quarter badge and fashion piece came next. I made my own gun port cover and hinge assembly, copying Bob's ("Rafine's") work and the plans. Then the beak head--wow! That's as close as my hobby ever came to work. Nothing measured right and I ended up relying on the seat of my pants as much as the plans. I hope it looks half decent. (I do not have Bob's bending and laminating talent, or any other of his great ship-building skills, so I cut the rails from a solid piece of birch plywood.) Next came the timber heads, knight heads and catheads. I did manage to fashion the sheaves in the catheads by filing, drilling, adding the skinny part of a toothpick and laminating the sides. The channels and chain plates are in progress and I still need to add the steering wheel standard assembly. I anticipate another month or so to complete the hull and place the cannons, rigging and deck furniture.
 
I'm looking forward to starting the masts, spars and rigging. Great thanks to Bob and Ken for the invaluable guidance in their Fair American posts.

I apologize for the gap between postings. By way of explanation, last March I was elected president of our country club, and it's a real time sync. Nonetheless, it has made working on Fair American that much more important to my down time. 
 
I've completed the bowsprit and jib boom and the lower fore and main masts and I've started the main top mast. As the pictures below show, the bowsprit and jib boom were constructed (as best I could) using Bob's (Rafine) build log.
 
I adopted KenW's wooldings on the lower foremast. The rationale for including them seemed quite acceptable and I think that they look good.I hung eight double blocks under the mast top using the wire (alternative) method suggested by Chuck Passaro in the Syren instructions and made the deadeye plates from .012 rope (from Syren) shaped with an awl and a heavy application of CA. The blocks on the mast were hung using a double loop seizing method taught by Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard). I glued the mast cap in place but should have waited until I complete the topmast. (I'll have to put the fid in place after sliding the top mast through the cap.)
 
The lower main mast was built the same way as the fore mast, less wooldings. I've added a hook for the main boom. 
 
The main top mast is well under way. The hounds were difficult to make and I did use the build-up method shown in Fig. 22C of the instruction manual. I'm having a few conceptual problems with construction of the trestle and cross trees and asked KenW a few questions since he has completed that part and it looks real good.
 
So, I've got to finish the topmasts, make the top gallant masts and attach the bowsprit. And then I can finally start the standing rigging.
 

I apologize for the gap between postings. By way of explanation, last March I was elected president of our country club, and it's a real time sync. Nonetheless, it has made working on Fair American that much more important to my down time. 
 
I've completed the bowsprit and jib boom and the lower fore and main masts and I've started the main top mast. As the pictures below show, the bowsprit and jib boom were constructed (as best I could) using Bob's (Rafine) build log.
 
I adopted KenW's wooldings on the lower foremast. The rationale for including them seemed quite acceptable and I think that they look good.I hung eight double blocks under the mast top using the wire (alternative) method suggested by Chuck Passaro in the Syren instructions and made the deadeye plates from .012 rope (from Syren) shaped with an awl and a heavy application of CA. The blocks on the mast were hung using a double loop seizing method taught by Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard). I glued the mast cap in place but should have waited until I complete the topmast. (I'll have to put the fid in place after sliding the top mast through the cap.)
 
The lower main mast was built the same way as the fore mast, less wooldings. I've added a hook for the main boom. 
 
The main top mast is well under way. The hounds were difficult to make and I did use the build-up method shown in Fig. 22C of the instruction manual. I'm having a few conceptual problems with construction of the trestle and cross trees and asked KenW a few questions since he has completed that part and it looks real good.
 
So, I've got to finish the topmasts, make the top gallant masts and attach the bowsprit. And then I can finally start the standing rigging.
 

I apologize for the gap between postings. By way of explanation, last March I was elected president of our country club, and it's a real time sync. Nonetheless, it has made working on Fair American that much more important to my down time. 
 
I've completed the bowsprit and jib boom and the lower fore and main masts and I've started the main top mast. As the pictures below show, the bowsprit and jib boom were constructed (as best I could) using Bob's (Rafine) build log.
 
I adopted KenW's wooldings on the lower foremast. The rationale for including them seemed quite acceptable and I think that they look good.I hung eight double blocks under the mast top using the wire (alternative) method suggested by Chuck Passaro in the Syren instructions and made the deadeye plates from .012 rope (from Syren) shaped with an awl and a heavy application of CA. The blocks on the mast were hung using a double loop seizing method taught by Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard). I glued the mast cap in place but should have waited until I complete the topmast. (I'll have to put the fid in place after sliding the top mast through the cap.)
 
The lower main mast was built the same way as the fore mast, less wooldings. I've added a hook for the main boom. 
 
The main top mast is well under way. The hounds were difficult to make and I did use the build-up method shown in Fig. 22C of the instruction manual. I'm having a few conceptual problems with construction of the trestle and cross trees and asked KenW a few questions since he has completed that part and it looks real good.
 
So, I've got to finish the topmasts, make the top gallant masts and attach the bowsprit. And then I can finally start the standing rigging.
 

I apologize for the gap between postings. By way of explanation, last March I was elected president of our country club, and it's a real time sync. Nonetheless, it has made working on Fair American that much more important to my down time. 
 
I've completed the bowsprit and jib boom and the lower fore and main masts and I've started the main top mast. As the pictures below show, the bowsprit and jib boom were constructed (as best I could) using Bob's (Rafine) build log.
 
I adopted KenW's wooldings on the lower foremast. The rationale for including them seemed quite acceptable and I think that they look good.I hung eight double blocks under the mast top using the wire (alternative) method suggested by Chuck Passaro in the Syren instructions and made the deadeye plates from .012 rope (from Syren) shaped with an awl and a heavy application of CA. The blocks on the mast were hung using a double loop seizing method taught by Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard). I glued the mast cap in place but should have waited until I complete the topmast. (I'll have to put the fid in place after sliding the top mast through the cap.)
 
The lower main mast was built the same way as the fore mast, less wooldings. I've added a hook for the main boom. 
 
The main top mast is well under way. The hounds were difficult to make and I did use the build-up method shown in Fig. 22C of the instruction manual. I'm having a few conceptual problems with construction of the trestle and cross trees and asked KenW a few questions since he has completed that part and it looks real good.
 
So, I've got to finish the topmasts, make the top gallant masts and attach the bowsprit. And then I can finally start the standing rigging.